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Old 08-01-2014, 06:33 PM   #1
matts13vert
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Street Factions's "Spirit of Fortune" S13 Vert

Same car. Same owner. New skills. New wheels. New build thread.
You can see the old build thread here: http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=358251

☆ ------------------ ☆ ------------------ ☆


2009: 17x8 / 17x9 Volk/Manarays, Cusco Comp-S Coilovers


2010: 18x10 XXR 521’s, PBM Pro Coilovers, Sleeper KA-T (210 WHP)


2011: 18x10 AME TM02 Tracers, Fully Built KA-T (350 WHP)


2012: 18x10 Work Bersaglio, Fully Built KA-T (350 WHP)

☆ ------------------ ☆ ------------------ ☆

Introduction
I've always wanted to learn how to fabricate, so I learned the basics at Cerritos College in early 2013. By the end of my first semester, Richard and I started Street Faction. Within a year and a half, I managed to stay at the top of each of my classes and became a certified Aerospace TIG welder. With this experience, I'm going to be doing all the fab and welding work on my s13 vert. The goal for my car is to be a drift & grip car by the end of 2014. I’m hoping to take it to Formula Drift Irwindale and All Star Bash in October.

I'm finally at the point where I'm proud of the quality of work that I put out and I pride myself in everything I do. I have one more semester of Aerospace TIG welding, then I will pursue engineering.


Contact Information (since my inbox is full)
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www.facebook.com/streetfactionengineering
www.streetfaction.net

☆ ------------------ ☆ ------------------ ☆

Enough of the chit chat. Time for the tear down.



April, 11 2014: Pulled my car into the driveway to start the tear down. I will be using a KP GT1 kit for the build.


I started on the prototype 50mm aluminum overfenders a month prior. I will be styling the body lines similar to those of the FC because they are both aggressive, yet stylish. Expect to see more progress on the aluminum wide body towards the end of the build.


I picked up some doors from a friend and proceeded to completely gut them.


Even went as far as removing the brace behind the skin.


S13 convertible doors are 100lbs each before gutting. After gutting coupe doors, they’re only 20lbs each.


Some people may not fully understand just how heavy the vert doors are. I saved 160lbs of weight by swapping to the gutted doors.




Next step was to pull the fully built KA24DE-T featuring an awesome KAMAK Dynamics TD06-20g at 15psi.




After a while, I started getting lazy, so I needed some motivation. I got an insider tip from Cosmis Racings that a new wheel was coming soon, so I waited and purchased one of the first sets of the 18x11’s in black chrome. Needless to say that shiny wheels make me happy, so back to work I went.


Looks like my prototype fenders fit on point with the new wheels just as I planned.


I ordered over 120ft of DOM tubing to build the cage and front end with.


I removed the sound deadening using dry ice and isopropyl alcohol.




Main hoop time. This is my first time building a cage so I’m learning as I go. The hoop is made of 1.75”x.120” DOM, The set back harness bar and diagonal brace are made of 1.5”x.120 and .095” DOM tube all TIG welded together.






I began laying out the dash brace. I won’t be running forward-down tubes off the main hoop/halo, so I tied directly into the A-pillar area/bulkhead for strength.




Since I won’t be running forward bars off the hoop, it is very important that I make the main hoop is rigid as possible. I incorporated a To-and-Thru support box design to brace the main hoop in more than one structural plane of the chassis.




More weight reduction! Since there won't be any rear passengers, I removed the rear seat brace/seat belt assembly and also removed the boxed strut brace because it’s ugly and heavy.






Next is the intricate door bars. Here I used regular mild steel ERW tube to practice the upper door bar, good thing I did because I had to revise the design before I made the final DOM version.


Triangles! Since I won’t be utilizing forward down tubes, I need to make the door bars as strong as possible to successfully join the front of the chassis to the rear of the chassis. I’m trying to compensate for the lack of a roof by doing this.






Here you can see the additional tubular braces that I added to the front and rear of the door bars to tie the entire structure together.


Welding outdoors sucks because slight breezes can cause these crazy looking colors after welding.


Driver side door bar is a mirror image.


Just a rad picture.


Close up of the tube merge.


Now that the door bars are pretty much done I can move onto the fun part. The front end.


With the help of my friend, Zach, we pulled off the upper cowl panel to better route and access the upper frame tubes into the dash bar.




Fully welded and completed driver side door bars.


It’s nice to look at it every now and then. My vision is finally becoming a reality.


Turns out that my friend needed a clean front clip for his s13 hatch so why not give him mine. He came down to help with the removal. I’m always trying to produce quality work so even when it comes to stuff I remove and cut out it isn't half assed.




We spent a couple hours removing the entire front clip by cutting all the spot welds and placing two specific cuts to the upper rails. It all came of in one clean undamaged piece.




This is the car’s current state as of today August 1, 2014.

☆ ------------------ ☆ ------------------ ☆

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Last edited by matts13vert; 10-23-2015 at 01:41 PM..
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Old 08-05-2014, 03:07 PM   #2
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looks awesome SF, cant wait to see what your tube front looks like
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Old 08-06-2014, 07:05 AM   #3
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this thing is fuckin' sweet!
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Old 08-06-2014, 07:41 AM   #4
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Your fab skills have taken off man! Keep at it!
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Old 08-06-2014, 07:44 AM   #5
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In for the fab work, the cage looks really nice
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Old 08-06-2014, 03:13 PM   #6
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This looks promising.. Keep up the good work man!
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Old 08-07-2014, 02:26 AM   #7
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Any possibility of selling a set of those front fenders once you get them worked out? Definitely want something in that style.
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Old 08-08-2014, 09:06 AM   #8
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all that hard work and you didn't even use base plates where the cage connects to the car?
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Old 08-11-2014, 08:30 PM   #9
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I'm with Sy90, any way I can get those front overs once they're done being R&D'd? And the car is coming out fantastic man!
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Old 08-12-2014, 12:53 PM   #10
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You weld really good.
Are you tracking this car or is a show car?
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Old 08-12-2014, 09:12 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dftsilvia View Post
all that hard work and you didn't even use base plates where the cage connects to the car?
i know i am blind and cant read for shit, but im seeing base plates? i mean its boxed in right
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Old 08-13-2014, 07:01 AM   #12
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I dunno I only see them on the main hoop and no where else? the dash bar deff doesn't have base plates
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Old 08-13-2014, 09:51 AM   #13
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so sick, cant wait to do my bashbar with you
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Old 08-13-2014, 10:15 AM   #14
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Just awsome mad props!!!keep it up!!!
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Old 08-14-2014, 12:47 PM   #15
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Awesome build thread from a fellow Vert owner! Subscribing
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Old 08-14-2014, 09:19 PM   #16
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UPDATE!!

☆ ------------------ ☆ ------------------ ☆


August 2, 2014 - After removing the front clip, I went ahead and removed all of the lines and parts from the engine bay along with the wheels and coilovers.


I wasn’t done removing the rest of the front clip. I spent about half an hour cutting out all the spot welds in tight locations that I wouldn't be able to remove easily after the next step.




Now it was time to make a jig that would support the strut tower tops in the exact OEM locations as I build the tubular structure around them. The OEM tops will be thrown away after they have served their purpose. I will be using custom made tops once I design them in Solidworks.






I continued to cut spot welds and placed two specific cuts to remove the rest of the front clip.


Now we get to the fun part, the new front end. I spent about an hour taking all the measurements I needed to make a prototype upper strut support for the passenger side.






My goal is to gain as much clearance as possible while maintaining better than OEM structural rigidity.


If you are familiar with the previous stages of my vert, then you know that I love to run it low. This factory upper frame rail has always been the limiting factor. But not anymore because I easily gained 1.5” of clearance above the tire!




Here you can see how it ties into the dash bar, vertical tube, and upper door bar.


☆ ------------------ ☆ ------------------ ☆

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Old 08-14-2014, 09:20 PM   #17
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UPDATE!!

☆ ------------------ ☆ ------------------ ☆


You can see the final DOM versions of the new outer strut supports. They are made of 1.5”x.120” DOM tube.




Next up was to make a wrap around type inner support, which is braced in numerous locations. You can see two of the three braces in this photo, the third brace for each side will be made later on for a specific reason.




Since the OEM upper frame rail was cut off at the firewall I decided to box it up with a ⅛” plate and add another brace to tie into the original structure. Just a close up of the 65 degree notch and the compound angle miter with no gaps on either end.


Trying to get as comfortable as possible.












So proud of these beads although I still have much to learn!






After some precise measurements and angle readings I went ahead and cut off the ugly factory rails. I will be replacing them with 2” x 4” x 3/16” steel rectangular tubing. Stay tuned this week for how I splice them into the remaining factory rails.


☆ ------------------ ☆ ------------------ ☆

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Old 08-14-2014, 09:21 PM   #18
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UPDATE!!

☆ ------------------ ☆ ------------------ ☆





So I recently decided the factory firewall looks ugly with all of the useless holes for the climate control system, and old brake and clutch pedal assemblies. That will be removed soon, for now I removed the steering column support and other small miscellaneous brackets that are spot welded to the upper cowl area.




Here you can see one of the three relief cuts that I made in order to insert the new frame rail in an inch. I then reshaped the old rail to match the new rails profile and tacked it in place.




I then triple checked all of my measurements and the angles on the new frame rails to ensure they are exactly in the same position as the old OEM rails. After it was all in spec I went ahead and welded them permanently in place, you can see a Rosette weld in the second picture along with the temporary Jig/brace to hold the width of the rails.




Next up I plotted and precisely drilled the holes for the temporary OEM crossmember. I was even able to drop in the OEM paired bolts through with no binding or any fitment issues.












Now I put my 3D design skills to work. I came up with 3 designs, from complex to simple, for the strut top plates. Each one was tested at the max load they would take if the coil over was fully compressed (6" compression 10k springs = 3360 lbs of force). I over engineered these top plates to take over 10,000 lbs of force.








These top mount designs will incorporate a .75” offset to widen the front track and allow for more angle. I made an exact model of the PBM Pro camber/caster plate to make sure I won't have any interference with my design.

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Old 08-14-2014, 09:32 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanielS14 View Post
looks awesome SF, cant wait to see what your tube front looks like
Check out the new updates! I didnt see that this thread was approved.

Quote:
Originally Posted by smokescreen240 View Post
this thing is fuckin' sweet!
Thanks!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by STL240SXDRIFT View Post
Your fab skills have taken off man! Keep at it!
Thank you, I improve every time I weld!

Quote:
Originally Posted by EvilEgg13 View Post
In for the fab work, the cage looks really nice
Thanks check out the new update!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ray_dizzle33 View Post
This looks promising.. Keep up the good work man!
Thank you I definitely will!

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheRealSy90 View Post
Any possibility of selling a set of those front fenders once you get them worked out? Definitely want something in that style.
I'm contemplating making a production run of the full wide body for the car, I will keep you posted through the thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dftsilvia View Post
all that hard work and you didn't even use base plates where the cage connects to the car?
Thats where you're wrong. Any of the tubes (that appear to be missing base plates) are welded to factory added boxed or plated sections made of .120" thick steel featured only on the vert chassis. If this were the typical s13 hardtop I would have made base plates since the sheet metal in those areas is equal to or less than .063" thick. Thats the reason the main hoop is braced so well, because the sheet metal on the floor is thin.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Onevia177 View Post
I'm with Sy90, any way I can get those front overs once they're done being R&D'd? And the car is coming out fantastic man!
I'm contemplating making a production run of the full wide body for the car, I will keep you posted through the thread. Thank you!!


Quote:
Originally Posted by OBEEWON View Post
You weld really good.
Are you tracking this car or is a show car?
Thanks, school and a lot of weld time has helped improve my skills. This car will be a track car.

Quote:
Originally Posted by KoukiMonsta View Post
i know i am blind and cant read for shit, but im seeing base plates? i mean its boxed in right
I responded to him in a previous post.

Quote:
Originally Posted by eastcoaststeeze View Post
so sick, cant wait to do my bashbar with you
Soon! Thanks for your patience!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Primo's Silvia View Post
Just awsome mad props!!!keep it up!!!
Thank you, I will!

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Awesome build thread from a fellow Vert owner! Subscribing
Thanks!
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Old 08-15-2014, 12:22 AM   #20
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I followed you back on IG.

You've come A LONGGGGGGGGG way. It's always great to see someone make their passion of cars into a career that they enjoy.

Congrats and best of luck. I know you'll actually finish the car and fucking DRIVE IT. Unlike most posers on here.
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Old 08-15-2014, 01:29 AM   #21
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Amazing work. Keep it up!
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Old 08-15-2014, 06:28 AM   #22
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Oh wow this is going to be an insane chassis! Loving your work man
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Old 08-18-2014, 07:22 AM   #23
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What's your instagram? Would like to follow this build since im not on here a lot.
Seriously good welding. I need to get my skill up.
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Old 08-18-2014, 08:07 PM   #24
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hey man, Your CRAZY AS FUCK. awesome craftsmanship. Nice tig welds btw!
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Old 08-19-2014, 06:57 PM   #25
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man I remember following the old build thread... awesome work man you have come a long way in a very short time. PROPS!
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Old 08-22-2014, 03:19 AM   #26
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I was confused with your selling the front clip, now I see you're a boss.
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Old 08-22-2014, 09:45 PM   #27
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Thumbs up

Amazing work cant wait to see the rest
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Old 09-01-2014, 04:08 AM   #28
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UPDATE!!

☆ ------------------ ☆ ------------------ ☆


Old firewall looked horrible with all of the holes and humps for climate control system and other accessories. I decided to just scrap it and replace it with nice smooth aluminum.


This won't be much of a street car so the convertible top has no place in this build. Pulled The Entire Assembly out and saved another 80lbs of weight.






I took advantage of the new space to start on the strut tower plates that will support the permanent strut tower bar. They were shaped with some patience and simple hammer and dolly.




Not bad.


I added another strut brace tieing into the dash bar and it's supporting bracing. Finding and cutting the correct hole to slide the tube through was quite difficult.




A local guy posted online that he was selling some 315/30/18 hankook rs2. That was a pretty nice deal to me so I went ahead and picked them up. Too bad I had a brain fart and skipped the 305 size. Oh well I guess I will make them fit.


Now that I created a nice challenge for myself with the huge tires I went ahead and continued to work on the huge hole I have in my engine bay. I designed and got this firewall cut. Flat sheet can be so boring sometimes so I took it over to my buddy Marlon's shop where I borrowed his bead roller and added the nice step up bead.


I went with the simple offset strut mounting plate design in the end. Easy to manufacture and more forgiving when it comes to welding.


Quick mock up of the new firewall, looks so good.


The following day was spent persuading the factory remaining firewall to move back a bit to clear the 18x11's now wrapped in a 315/30. I can now achieve full 55° lock with 1/2" clearance all around.






Firewall is now shaped and fully riveted in place using military spec solid aluminum rivets. First time ever installing these types of rivets and it's pretty fun since it requires teamwork with a second person. In this case it was my girlfriend and my friend Lalo.

☆ ------------------ ☆ ------------------ ☆

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Old 09-01-2014, 06:56 AM   #29
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that rubber is insane. rubber's gonna rub. rub rub rub.
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Old 09-01-2014, 08:02 AM   #30
tricky_ab
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Location: It's dark, and hell is hot!
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tricky_ab has much to be proud oftricky_ab has much to be proud oftricky_ab has much to be proud oftricky_ab has much to be proud oftricky_ab has much to be proud oftricky_ab has much to be proud oftricky_ab has much to be proud oftricky_ab has much to be proud oftricky_ab has much to be proud oftricky_ab has much to be proud oftricky_ab has much to be proud of
Feedback Score: 23 reviews
Whoa! I'll be watching this build for sure!

This is amazing fabrication work that you've done, so far.
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Back for round two... 4 doors this time around...
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