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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars


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Old 08-22-2012, 12:07 PM   #1
sleepyeyeds14
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Electrical issues all suggestions much appriciated!

I just finished my SOHC to DOHC swap about 3 weeks ago. For the last 3 weeks everything was absolutely perfect! No issues what so ever! However, last weekend i took a trip and left my car at home in my garage. When i come back i noticed that my clock in gauge cluster isn't working, so i thought my battery was dead. But the car started with no problems. then i noticed that the cluster acts like it is completely unplugged until about 2 seconds then it starts working fine. sometimes it wont start working until i rev the engine. Yesterday was the first real day of me driving it after the weekend and i noticed the radio shuts off for about 4 seconds randomly. Then when i got home i realized that when the engine is off ALL electronics stop working. the seat belts don't retract, the lights wont turn on NOTHING! And this is with the Key in the ON position... I am absolutely dumbfounded. Any suggestions would be help full. Thanks in advance

Car is a 1990 hatch with a 1996 KA with S13 ECU and Harness. idk if it matters or not...
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Old 08-22-2012, 10:19 PM   #2
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Sounds like a bad ground to me
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Old 08-22-2012, 11:58 PM   #3
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Quote:
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Sounds like a bad ground to me
you think? well today the alternator fuse blew. Could it have blown because of a bad ground?
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Old 08-23-2012, 12:14 AM   #4
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Did the car start once ON switch stop working?


sounds like a loose power wire or ground.

a power wire that is dangling and grounds out will jolt the system and pop fuses.

take a test light to the fuse box and start poking around.


since the problem started at the clock pull the cluster and look for a loose wire
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Old 08-23-2012, 12:21 AM   #5
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There will be a certain fuse that controls the clock, along with a couple other misc things.

same as the cluster. and every other electronic in the car

find the fuse and test that slot for power with a test light. that will help you narrow down if your problem lies between the Input or Output side
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Old 08-23-2012, 12:29 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSanchez925 View Post
Did the car start once ON switch stop working?


sounds like a loose power wire or ground.

a power wire that is dangling and grounds out will jolt the system and pop fuses.

take a test light to the fuse box and start poking around.


since the problem started at the clock pull the cluster and look for a loose wire
Yes the car started when the on switch stoped working. I will look for loose wires tomorrow or Friday. And what should I be looking for with this test light?
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Old 08-23-2012, 12:42 AM   #7
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i'd just look for bad fuses, and then check relays but usually i have narrowed all my wiring issues by tracing wires that were incorrectly wired and finding multiple fuses blown bc some fuses depend on each other and will continuosly blow out until all fuses are replaced.
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Old 08-23-2012, 11:04 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleepyeyeds14 View Post
Yes the car started when the on switch stoped working. I will look for loose wires tomorrow or Friday. And what should I be looking for with this test light?
So the starter gets power, but the accessories don't.

Easiest way is to find a schematic and see which wire from the ignition switch powers the accessories.

with the test light, look for the popped fuse .

test the fuse socket (input Side) If the light Lights up then you know you have good power from the input side, and your problem lies within the Output side.

you can even just test the ignition switch itself with the light, turn it onto the "on" position and start poking around to see which light up and which ones don't


Its there to help you narrow down the where the broek wire is.
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Old 08-23-2012, 11:48 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSanchez925 View Post
So the starter gets power, but the accessories don't.

Easiest way is to find a schematic and see which wire from the ignition switch powers the accessories.

with the test light, look for the popped fuse .

test the fuse socket (input Side) If the light Lights up then you know you have good power from the input side, and your problem lies within the Output side.

you can even just test the ignition switch itself with the light, turn it onto the "on" position and start poking around to see which light up and which ones don't


Its there to help you narrow down the where the broek wire is.
But with the test light, when I check the input side, its gunna light up with any power at all correct? So how will I be able to tell if im getting too much power that's blowing the fuse???
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Old 08-23-2012, 11:57 AM   #10
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damn stinkin rats lol
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Old 08-23-2012, 07:06 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleepyeyeds14 View Post
But with the test light, when I check the input side, its gunna light up with any power at all correct? So how will I be able to tell if im getting too much power that's blowing the fuse???
Can't get too much power. You'll get too much amperage. Most likely a short to ground. Wire could be bare and grounding out before the load and causing too much current to flow. Best bet is to put a circuit breaker on whichever fuse blew and start tracing wires.
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Old 08-23-2012, 07:33 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleepyeyeds14 View Post
But with the test light, when I check the input side, its gunna light up with any power at all correct? So how will I be able to tell if im getting too much power that's blowing the fuse???

the light will let you know if you have a wire thats broken.

it could have broken, but in the process grounded it self out causing a short.

You can also you a multi meter an check the volts as well.
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Old 08-23-2012, 07:35 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1ZlowZ View Post
Can't get too much power. You'll get too much amperage. Most likely a short to ground. Wire could be bare and grounding out before the load and causing too much current to flow. Best bet is to put a circuit breaker on whichever fuse blew and start tracing wires.
all a circuit breaker is going to do is cover up an existing problem.



just start poking around with a light and multimeter
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Old 08-23-2012, 07:39 PM   #14
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Since your alternator fuse also popped, you should check the lower harness for any rubbed and exposed wires, as well as a loose ground/power wire. in the engine bay.

Could also be a bad alternator over charging.
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Old 08-23-2012, 07:56 PM   #15
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I know that if your Gauge cluster and radio are cutting out it can be the ecu, try wiggling the plug and see if anything comes back on, I had the same issue before.
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Old 08-23-2012, 10:47 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSanchez925 View Post
all a circuit breaker is going to do is cover up an existing problem.



just start poking around with a light and multimeter
Circuit breaker is not a permanent solution. Is he going to put a new fuse every time it blows? Or just wait until circuit breaker cools down and keep testing?

He can't test an open circuit.

Circuit breakers are a godsend when it comes finding shorts in the system.
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Old 08-23-2012, 11:03 PM   #17
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since that fuse only bridges X amount of things. he should what it bridges.


pull that fuse, stick a multi meter into the input side and and see what it comes back with.
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Old 08-23-2012, 11:07 PM   #18
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fix the problem before putting the fuse in, simple as that.

thats what a multimeter and test light are for.

if its popping so quickly a circuit breaker wont do anything since it will just trip as soon as the car is powered on.


and to add a higher amperage circuit breaker would be dumb as well, since that would just give you a good chance at an electrical fire.
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Old 08-24-2012, 03:57 AM   #19
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Check alternator ground reason why i kept blowing alternator fuse. if the car turns on but their is no power inside the car then it is your alternator ground.
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Old 08-27-2012, 01:55 PM   #20
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Hey guys, thanks for all your help. i found the problem. i had 2 bare, loose wires that made contact with the alternator and caused a short. Fixed the wires, replaced the fuse, now it runs fine.
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