vlsd still clunks when shifting

[s13silvia123]

alrite first of all i've switched out my open diff then swap in the j30 vlsd diff. everthing was alrite but it clunks still. all the bolts are in. the bushing for the diff went out so i've decided to use costume made solid diff bushing instead. it still clunks. i have no clue why it still does that when all the bolts were in. i'm using longer bolts. its not solid when i shift gears. i can feel the vlsd moving up and down when i shift. it stalls my tranny and i can see the rpm dropping when i drive without shifting as i hit a bump. it clunks as well when i hit a bump too.


If anyone ever had this problem please tell me how did you fix it so that it wont clunk no more.

if this is not working for me i'm going back to the open diff and wait for a two-way lsd instead.

[LB.Motoring]

this couldnt be anything with the driveshaft? the middle retainer? sound when you shift?

[s13silvia123]

Originally Posted by LB.Motoring

this couldnt be anything with the driveshaft? the middle retainer? sound when you shift?

i dont know cause the vlsd is for abs. and my old diff isnt for abs. could it be the driveshaft.

[drew935]

it could be the diff bushings...J30's need them/ have them. I know that you swapped them out but that's what it looks like based on your post.

[TheWolf]

does it feel like the rear of the car shakes when you shift?

[s13silvia123]

Originally Posted by drew935

it could be the diff bushings...J30's need them/ have them. I know that you swapped them out but that's what it looks like based on your post.

yes of course i know the j30 diff needs them but mine are worn out. so i replaced them with SOLID diff bushings instead. it still clunk even when the bushings were good.

Originally Posted by TheWolf

does it feel like the rear of the car shakes when you shift?

yes it does shake when i shift.

[BC240]

If you shift slower does the clunk not happen?

[s13silvia123]

Originally Posted by BC240

If you shift slower does the clunk not happen?

if i shift slower nothing happens. when i shift fast its ok then when i go to fourth gear it clunks or hit a bump. going at 30 mph on the road. i dont beat on my s13 in the streets but on the tracks its different. pretty much i dont know yet but i'll check on my driveshaft and tranny mount this weekend. and since its pretty warm over here this winter i'll check my entire drive line. connecting from the the tranny to the vlsd.

[OBEEWON]

It is the Diff bushings. By some Shims from home depot. I have two on top and two on bottom. No more noise and it stiffened up the response from the rear alot. I gaurantee it.

[OBEEWON]

When you shift the whole diff torques and clunks metal to metal. Just jack your car up and look at the bushing real close. Do one side at a time to save you the trouble of dropping the whole diff out. Make sure you keep the metal piping that goes over the bolts though.

[punxva]

it could be one of the axels also, i remember a few other members having this problem a while back

[koukimonster139]

uhhh dont you need the j30 axles???

[s13silvia123]

Originally Posted by OBEEWON

It is the Diff bushings. By some Shims from home depot. I have two on top and two on bottom. No more noise and it stiffened up the response from the rear alot. I gaurantee it.

Originally Posted by OBEEWON

When you shift the whole diff torques and clunks metal to metal. Just jack your car up and look at the bushing real close. Do one side at a time to save you the trouble of dropping the whole diff out. Make sure you keep the metal piping that goes over the bolts though.

are you sure cause my rpm drops every time it clunks and need some better explaination about the shims. give some sort of picture.

[s13silvia123]

Originally Posted by punxva

it could be one of the axels also, i remember a few other members having this problem a while back

mine should be fine nothing is wrong with them

Originally Posted by koukimonster139

uhhh dont you need the j30 axles???

got them on

[!Zar!]

Sounds like you need subframe bushings.

[s13silvia123]

Originally Posted by !Zar!

Sounds like you need subframe bushings.

are you sure that i need them. i'm going to get all them and see what happens but please read the entire thread to see what you think. if i do need the the subframe bushings then i'll think i should just go to SPL and buy them.

[!Zar!]

Once I put a better diff in my s14, the whole subframe was was moving. That is the clunk I think you are hearing.

Once I put the spl collars in, there was no more subframe movement. Everything felt direct.

Even if you don't NEED them, they are only what, $75? The road feel you get once you install them are worth every penny.


I see no reason why you would have any other problems.

j diffs are bolt in.

As long as you torqued everything down propperly, and purchased s14 diff inserts, you're golden.

[s13silvia123]

Originally Posted by !Zar!

Once I put a better diff in my s14, the whole subframe was was moving. That is the clunk I think you are hearing.

Once I put the spl collars in, there was no more subframe movement. Everything felt direct.

Even if you don't NEED them, they are only what, $75? The road feel you get once you install them are worth every penny.

i'll get them this week and i'll try them. if it stops the clunking and my rpm doenst drop when i'm just going 30 mph with out shifting. i'll be glad

[OBEEWON]

Longer bolts would make it worse. Jack the back of your car up with the jack on the diff. If there is space between the end of the bolts that hold the diff in place and the collar of the diff just add as many shims as it takes to cover the space. Top and bottom may be overkill but it works. If that doesnt work then look at your subframe bushings but Im almost 100% sure its the diff bushings. Its an easy job. Mine got so bad I had to shift then feather the gas or it sounded like my rear fell on the ground. Ill try to get some pictures for you.

[s13silvia123]

Originally Posted by OBEEWON

Longer bolts would make it worse. Jack the back of your car up with the jack on the diff. If there is space between the end of the bolts that hold the diff in place and the collar of the diff just add as many shims as it takes to cover the space. Top and bottom may be overkill but it works. If that doesnt work then look at your subframe bushings but Im almost 100% sure its the diff bushings. Its an easy job. Mine got so bad I had to shift then feather the gas or it sounded like my rear fell on the ground. Ill try to get some pictures for you.

alrite thanks guys. i think you guys answer my question unlike the ones i've posted before and got no reasonable answers i'll give all these tips a try. if i cant find the answers i'll ask my pops. since he's a mechanic for more than 25 years. i prefer to ask you guys and i figure it then ask him since he's bitchy about it all the time.

[Vlasic]

Another vote for the diff bushings. I was missing the two lower front diff bushings and every time I hit the gas or shifted, the diff would bounce up and down and make a loud clunk.

edit: dont meen you need new bushings, but you have a space in there because of the longer bolts, causing the diff to move the same way mine did when i didnt have any bushings.

[s13silvia123]

Originally Posted by Vlasic

Another vote for the diff bushings. I was missing the two lower front diff bushings and every time I hit the gas or shifted, the diff would bounce up and down and make a loud clunk.

your saying i should buy new bushings.

[Vlasic]

No, I think you should do what OBEEWON said. Since you decided to use longer bolts new bushings wont make a difference. You need to put some washers in there to make up for the extra space from the longer bolts.

[s13silvia123]

Originally Posted by Vlasic

No, I think you should do what OBEEWON said. Since you decided to use longer bolts new bushings wont make a difference. You need to put some washers in there to make up for the extra space from the longer bolts.

i'll try all the suggestions that everyone is giving and i'll see if it works.

[mbmbmb23]

Go to Infiniti and buy the correct peices. On the earlier J30 vlsd's there are 4 separate rubber peices; 2 that go between the unit and the car (look like 2.5 inch diameter rubber washers with a 1 inch diameter hole in the center), and the other 2 peices go between the bolt head and the VLSD unit...both are metal washers w/ 2.5 inch diameter w/small enough hole for the bolt to stick thru but not the head....and the washers have a short stubby rubber crown around the hat of one side that cushions the contact point when the diff torques against the subframe. The part numbers are different because they are different thickness.

Quick FYI, the later J30 diff's have a 1 peice bushing that has the upper rubber washer attached.....that need pressed in.......these are more expensive. If you reuse the bushings you have you can buy just the rubber washer rings that are not connected to the bushing.....much cheaper. My advice, goto the local Infiniti parts counter and ask the guy to bring up a 1995 J30 diff parts list and take it from there.


-m

[whitey240]

go to nissan... order these parts

2 STOPPER DIFF 55475-33POO
2 STOPPER DIFF 55474-33POO
2 BOLT-DIFFE 55424-33POO

go to hardware store pick up these parts
2 random washers, 1.5+" diameter, .125" thick

these are the correct parts you need to install the Diff.