This is the roll center, suspension pickup, and steering angle modification thread.

[Croustibat]

Originally Posted by GKTECH

The rears are still in development but here's where we've got to so far:




At this stage we've made 3 steering arms for the front knuckles. Standard, extreme and another which we haven't given a name to as yet but when they're released we'll also release a bunch of simulations to show the differences from one to the next

I'd go with "ultimate" for the third, it fits "even better than extreme" quite well ( although i dont like that kind of naming )

[GKTECH]

Originally Posted by nieko

I like the new design much better. Less stress off of the bolts themselves. During testing where the bolts holding the steering arms to the knuckle failing? Or what exactly was failing?

Or did you guys randomly just decide to change it, haha.

Regardless, good stuff!

The steering arm of the first prototypes proved to be stronger than the factory unit, not by much but it certainly didn't show any signs of failing under normal drift conditions however I knew people were concerned about this area due to the large number of cut and shut type knuckles that do see failures. We brainstormed and played around with a number of different options and this new design proved to be around 300% stronger than the original in our initial FEA's.

Originally Posted by KA240SX808

I believe the mentioned the Steering Arm it self. IIRC this design update for the arm showed 300% increase in strength.

That is correct, the FEA's showed around a 300% increase over the previous version. That said, we'll wait for the destructive testing for final numbers where we'll compare a standard (unmodified) knuckle.

[GKTECH]

Originally Posted by Croustibat

I'd go with "ultimate" for the third, it fits "even better than extreme" quite well ( although i dont like that kind of naming )

The naming is just so that we can identify them for now, they'll most likely just end up with product numbers rather than names as such.

We'll put together a table showing the differences between all the arms such as ackerman, length and angle. This will make it easier for people to determine which is better for them.

[InsTanCeZ]

Edit: Never mind delete lol

[huffandpuff00]

I received the rack spacers for both sides and took some measurements. These are pbm V.1 inner tie rod going on s14 lca extended 1", DW knuckles . Not ideal but worked just fine.
~12.5" end to end
~11.75" end to rack
~13" end to rack w/ spacer

[nemesisdrift]

What kind of front wheel set ups does everyone have? I'm curious to know how wide of 18in wheel i can run without rubbing issues obvious offset matters too.

[swiftmini]

9j et0 works good for me!

[swiftmini]

My sr20 4door 32 gets mapped on friday and if all goes well i will be using it in the uk odc finals on sunday.

If you guys remember i made experimental raised front and rear subframes, with geomasters and MAC strut conversion.

Watch this space! Ill let you all know how it goes

[mikerbike]

I run a 17x7.5 +33.

~37mm extended control arms
Custom knuckles with (as close as I could make them) 0 ackerman and 3.875" from TR-LBJ
Tension rod misalignment spacers modified to scoot inward as far as possible
Rack moved forward ~30mm
No sway bar
215/45 snow tires


For a while, I was using a 25mm spacer and adding camber (via the camber plates) for more TC rod clearance, but that seemed to take away rear grip. Too much KPI and scrub?

[delado]

Anybody wanna point out some of the differences here? I'm trying to buy some outer tie rods that will relocate my pivot point and adjust my bump steer on my lowered s14.
Circuit Sport:


SPL




Price difference is rather significant among these two. But I'm assuming the only difference among them is the quality of the joints?

[jaysgottaredtop]

i've broken two Circuit Sports outers. the heim joints they use are pretty crappy 2-pc things. basically a spherical bearing pressed into a rod end. all fine and dandy until the spherical wiggles its way out.

SPL uses beefy 1-pc heim joints with WAY more articulation angle than Circuit Sports. much harder to bind/bend/break. that's what you really want.

[huffandpuff00]

I never ran cs outers but I've personally broke the shank on another crap brand and it send me into a curb. I was only going about 15mph, but I always think about if I was on the highway. I did run kazama outers and they were quality, but I would personally never run anything but oem and spl ever again on something that important in control of your car.

Spl:
Precision CNC machined 9310 alloy shanks for 190ksi tensile strength and incredible impact resistance, to take the abuse of drifting.

[motoxris]

[Motary]

But Cor integration parts don't get you most steering angle

[PIN GIO 2]

i wonder if i can keep tein tie rod inner and outer for 25mm extra longer low control arm?

[Motary]

It depends on how much thread engagement you will have

[huffandpuff00]

If you have knuckles you will most likely need longer inners...

[towlie]

Any one using 350z tie rods spl recommends thosr

[KA240SX808]

IIRC those are just beefier S14 Teins correct? Same length just thicker.
I'd be worried of getting a tie rod too strong and causing damage to the rack.
Same way super beefy arms are to your subframe. Tie rods and arms are cheaper and easier to replace than a rack or subframe. If you think about it.

Main reason I don't like my SPC arms as I used too. So beefy it turned my subframe into a pretzel.

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by KA240SX808

IIRC those are just beefier S14 Teins correct? Same length just thicker.
I'd be worried of getting a tie rod too strong and causing damage to the rack.
Same way super beefy arms are to your subframe. Tie rods and arms are cheaper and easier to replace than a rack or subframe. If you think about it.

Main reason I don't like my SPC arms as I used too. So beefy it turned my subframe into a pretzel.

Easy solution. Don't hit things.

[moth]

feels like i just went to school, for something i love :')

[thefro526]

Maybe you guys can give some insight on this.

I've got an S14, and it's currently my daily, it's on coils, has some arms (purely for alignment purposes) and it doesn't drive too badly. One thing that I did notice is that my bump steer is pretty bad when driving the car 'hard'. I know this is because of the tie rod being at a funky angle relative to the LCA and that spacing it down would help eliminate the bump steer.

Now my question: Is there an OEM level trick/part/method to eliminating bump steer? I'd prefer to avoid spherical tie rod outers if possible so the only solution that I know of would be to have the tie rod mount chopped and dropped at the knuckle...

[delado]

Originally Posted by thefro526

Maybe you guys can give some insight on this.

I've got an S14, and it's currently my daily, it's on coils, has some arms (purely for alignment purposes) and it doesn't drive too badly. One thing that I did notice is that my bump steer is pretty bad when driving the car 'hard'. I know this is because of the tie rod being at a funky angle relative to the LCA and that spacing it down would help eliminate the bump steer.

Now my question: Is there an OEM level trick/part/method to eliminating bump steer? I'd prefer to avoid spherical tie rod outers if possible so the only solution that I know of would be to have the tie rod mount chopped and dropped at the knuckle...

HA! I was just about to come in here and ask this. I'm on the same boat as you. I'm close to dropping 200 on new spl outters for my s14 that I daily on coils (but stock arms). My alignment is shitty. I need an alignment. Will it be a waste of time to replace my outters with oem ones? And will I be able to achieve a proper alignment with stock arms? This is a daily.

[IThaJokaI]

Originally Posted by delado

HA! I was just about to come in here and ask this. I'm on the same boat as you. I'm close to dropping 200 on new spl outters for my s14 that I daily on coils (but stock arms). My alignment is shitty. I need an alignment. Will it be a waste of time to replace my outters with oem ones? And will I be able to achieve a proper alignment with stock arms? This is a daily.

Come on Leo.

If your kouki is any sort of low, stock arms will not work to get the alignment straight. And if you're just daily driving the car, you don't NEED aftermarket tie rods.

[rbs14kouki]

Originally Posted by thefro526

Maybe you guys can give some insight on this.

I've got an S14, and it's currently my daily, it's on coils, has some arms (purely for alignment purposes) and it doesn't drive too badly. One thing that I did notice is that my bump steer is pretty bad when driving the car 'hard'. I know this is because of the tie rod being at a funky angle relative to the LCA and that spacing it down would help eliminate the bump steer.

Now my question: Is there an OEM level trick/part/method to eliminating bump steer? I'd prefer to avoid spherical tie rod outers if possible so the only solution that I know of would be to have the tie rod mount chopped and dropped at the knuckle...

Originally Posted by delado

HA! I was just about to come in here and ask this. I'm on the same boat as you. I'm close to dropping 200 on new spl outters for my s14 that I daily on coils (but stock arms). My alignment is shitty. I need an alignment. Will it be a waste of time to replace my outters with oem ones? And will I be able to achieve a proper alignment with stock arms? This is a daily.

Buy drop spindle (psm , driftworks , era1 , GKTech) you will be able to keep your stock other with a bump steer correction ans a 40mm rollcenter correction !

[delado]

Originally Posted by rbs14kouki

Buy drop spindle (psm , driftworks , era1 , GKTech) you will be able to keep your stock other with a bump steer correction ans a 40mm rollcenter correction !

In a perfect world, I would drop around 1k for drop spindles. But I'm trying to keep it on a budget.

[Nissansota240]

What if the bolt/stud was replaced for a longer one also with a longer spacer. Would that work in making the tie rod more level? Just a thought or is that even going to work.

Edit: I'm talking about on the spl tie rod, the bolt/stud that connects to the knuckle.

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by delado

In a perfect world, I would drop around 1k for drop spindles. But I'm trying to keep it on a budget.

They don't cost that much man! PSM's pro knuckles are $400.

Originally Posted by Nissansota240

What if the bolt/stud was replaced for a longer one also with a longer spacer. Would that work in making the tie rod more level? Just a thought or is that even going to work.

Edit: I'm talking about on the spl tie rod, the bolt/stud that connects to the knuckle.

They already have a longer shank and include spacers. If you combine all the spacers they adjust far enough to correct bumpsteer when your frame rails are on the ground, so I don't think you'll need any more spacers

[delado]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

They don't cost that much man! PSM's pro knuckles are $400.



They already have a longer shank and include spacers. If you combine all the spacers they adjust far enough to correct bumpsteer when your frame rails are on the ground, so I don't think you'll need any more spacers

Right. Well that will take care of the rear. Now my concern is the front. You seem to be pretty knowledgeable about suspension geometry which is why I was hoping a response from you lol.

Will I be able to achieve a proper alignment with oem outters or are the spl ones combined with z33/z32 inners required?

And so basically the rear is established. The rear oem arms won't be able to achieve proper alignment or anywhere near close on a slammed car.

[Nissansota240]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

They already have a longer shank and include spacers. If you combine all the spacers they adjust far enough to correct bumpsteer when your frame rails are on the ground, so I don't think you'll need any more spacers

Ok, yeah, thanks for clearing that up. I don't currently have a set of those so it was a guess. Good to know though because I was planning on purchasing some.