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Old 03-29-2011, 05:30 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95KA-Turbo View Post
I am throwing around the idea of undoing rear brake line on the brake block in the engine bay and just blocking it off and seeing how my car feels while braking. Then I could just run the rear brakes through the hydraulic hand brake....so if I really really needed all four brakes to stop I can use my hand and foot to do it. My car isn't really a street car and I have Q45 front brakes......I realize this might sound like a dumb idea but its easy to try out.
it probably won't feel much different unless you're under heavy braking since the rears hardly brake when daily driving depending on how hard you press it. It'll just take a while to get used to since it'll be super biased
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Old 03-29-2011, 06:11 PM   #32
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just throwing this out there for ppl who have had probs with their hydro set up. if you dont bleed the hydro properly you will get issues, not locking up, one side locking up and what have you. also the proportioning valve ive herd is used to combat the issue of when you press the foot brake and the hydro one doesnt over power the other. case in point is when i am on the hydro and i hit the foot it will yank the hydro out of my hand and vise versa. you can use the proportioning valve to change the effect of this meaning how sever it is. the only way to have a set up that wont effect the foot brake is running a dual caliper set up.
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Old 04-10-2011, 12:19 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by TEALSQUEAL View Post
Are u running a z32 master cylinder? Also did u remove the Proportioning valve/ fitting in the master cylinder? I am about to do my setup and was told I needed tO drill out the fitting in the master cylinder.
no just oem master cylinder. i did not remove anything from the master cylinder though. can you provide me with more info on this. i know your not supposed to run the stock one and an aftermarket one, couldnt find any info on removal though
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Old 04-27-2011, 06:19 PM   #34
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Alright guys i figured someone in here has a Ksport hydro ebrake. I got one that ill be installed in my s13 soon. It came with the useless 2 ft lines.

My question is, What fittings and what lines do i need to order to get this thing working?
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Old 06-02-2011, 02:26 PM   #35
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Does anyone have problem with not being able to lock up the rear?
i have a 350z with stock brake system with stoptech rear street performance pads. CNC staging brakes.
However, i followed a DIY who had a success with it but i can't seem to lock up.. can someone help me out
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Old 06-02-2011, 05:11 PM   #36
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Just installed one on my buddies last week
he loves it and locks up great

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Old 06-02-2011, 07:35 PM   #37
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just put one on my buddies e30 bimmer and its amazing


wilwood secondary calipers on the rear and all. shits serious. i want one!!!
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Old 06-02-2011, 09:45 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slideways90 View Post
just throwing this out there for ppl who have had probs with their hydro set up. if you dont bleed the hydro properly you will get issues, not locking up, one side locking up and what have you. also the proportioning valve ive herd is used to combat the issue of when you press the foot brake and the hydro one doesnt over power the other. case in point is when i am on the hydro and i hit the foot it will yank the hydro out of my hand and vise versa. you can use the proportioning valve to change the effect of this meaning how sever it is. the only way to have a set up that wont effect the foot brake is running a dual caliper set up.
what is the proper way to bleed CNC hydro ebrake?
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Old 06-02-2011, 10:08 PM   #39
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I have a KSport in my car and I love it.



Basically bent the existing hardlines up to it, interputing the line that goes to the rear brakes.

One thing that I have noticed is that no matter how well you bleed it or how well you install it you NEED very aggressive rear pads. I have Carbotech rear pads and it takes 1 finger to lock up 17x10's in the rear. If you run shitty pads you will have a huge problem with the effectiveness of the mod. Also the bolt on lines don't give the same feel as the shorter method I used. They also make it a bitch to bleed.

Also the "parking" feature is worthless, so my race car has no parking brake. If it was a DD I would probably keep the stock one and add this.
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Old 06-02-2011, 10:28 PM   #40
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Jesus CHRIST there is a ton of misinformation here. Everyone who has never used one or installed one should delete their posts.

First, the master cylinder has two front outputs (one for each front caliper) and ONE rear output ~ the 'pass through'/traditional style hydro ebrake sits in between this and the rear calipers (which are tee'd right by the rear subframe).

If you use a pass-through hydro, it will interfere with your brake pedal feel when you're using both at the same time.
OH NOES ~ SO WHAT?! This is how people have done it until a couple years ago, you can still stab the fronts to adjust your entry when coming in on the ebrake juuuuuuuuuuuust fine. If you're on the front brakes and you grab a little ebrake to adjust, the pedal kicks back at you a little, but the front brakes are still grabbing as long as you keep your foot on it.

Secondly, this whole "it's not powerful enough to stop my MONSTER 10" wheels" crap is garbage. I've driven in tons of cars with 18x10.5's and sticky tires that worked fine with stock S13/S14 rear brakes. My S14 had 18x12's with Pirelli 285's and I could lock up the rears on the freeway with a good yank from my CNC Brakes ebrake, with Z32 rear calipers and Autozone pads.

Note: mastery cylinder and leverage ratio do play a roll in how sensitive the hydro is and conversely, how much you have to yank the handle. 7/8" is "standard", 3/4" gives you a little more stroke to make the same power.

Finally, as far as brands go, they're pretty much all using the same designs. The K-sport brake is popular because they're cheap, can be set up as pull-up or pull-back style, and have the provision for locking (although like Matt said above, its not trustworthy on the street). Parts Shop Max is great, and ASD's stuff looks great as well.
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Old 08-25-2011, 06:51 PM   #41
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and bench bleeding it helps speed up the bleeding process when its installed
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Old 09-08-2011, 05:51 AM   #42
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I'm gunna be putting one ony ls400. Seems like there's a lot of hit or miss with these. Should I go with the 5/8 cylinder or 7/8 seeing as the car is heavier
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Old 09-08-2011, 06:36 AM   #43
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Jordan is right...plus guys all you really want is to have that Willwood cyl....which PBM already has, but you can get these for like 50 bucks and just put it on the cheaper "bases" so to say(Godspeed,ISIS,Ect.) and save some dollas. my buddy had Ksport and the thing sucked, literally blew the CYL. within a month. In summary, Go WillWood, Bleed it Properly, and if your running z32 brakes all around Upgrade your master. K thx
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Old 09-08-2011, 07:28 AM   #44
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So what would be the "proper" way to bleed the system? From start to finish?
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Old 09-08-2011, 07:38 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by worr20 View Post
So what would be the "proper" way to bleed the system? From start to finish?
When I helped install a K-Sport Hydro on a friends Z, we used a vacuum bleeder. Only difference between a standard bleed and one with a hydro is that you have to make sure that the hydro is in the 'open' so that fluid passes right through it.

Someone may correct this method, but that's how we did it and it worked. (Until the K-Sport MC decided to go.)
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Old 09-08-2011, 07:47 AM   #46
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Originally Posted by 95KA-Turbo View Post
I am throwing around the idea of undoing rear brake line on the brake block in the engine bay and just blocking it off and seeing how my car feels while braking. Then I could just run the rear brakes through the hydraulic hand brake....so if I really really needed all four brakes to stop I can use my hand and foot to do it. My car isn't really a street car and I have Q45 front brakes......I realize this might sound like a dumb idea but its easy to try out.
did you ever do this? results? i have 350z brembo's on the front with a 1-1/16" master cylinder. this combo should be able to stop my stripped s14 no problem on their own.
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Old 09-08-2011, 07:52 AM   #47
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I ended up getting a PSM ebrake off a friend for cheap and haven't finished installing it yet. I am waiting to install it at my friend's shop so I can use his air bleeder to make my life easier. So I am going to run it in line.
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Old 09-08-2011, 08:41 AM   #48
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I installed the isis hydro ebrake a few weeks ago and it locks up great with stock s13 rear calipers and autozone pads all i did was take the rear brake line from the engine bay block on the frame rail bend it up thru the floor on passanger side to go into the ebrake then ran another line from the other port to the rear brake block near the subframe. As Jordan said you can still use the brakes just the pedal kicks up a touch and IMO if your installing this you should also be installing braided lines to the calipers for a better pedal feel. As for bleeding i did it by myself with some silicon tubing 4 empty water bottles and some zipties, put the car on 4 jack stands open all the bleeders then installed the tubing on the nipple. Then i zip tied the water bottles to the struts and ran the tubing thru a hole in the cap all the way to the bottom, make sure the MC stays full and pump away till theres no bubbles of you fill the bottles then tighten the bleeders.
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Old 09-08-2011, 10:14 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Banegraphix View Post
I installed the isis hydro ebrake a few weeks ago and it locks up great with stock s13 rear calipers and autozone pads all i did was take the rear brake line from the engine bay block on the frame rail bend it up thru the floor on passanger side to go into the ebrake then ran another line from the other port to the rear brake block near the subframe. As Jordan said you can still use the brakes just the pedal kicks up a touch and IMO if your installing this you should also be installing braided lines to the calipers for a better pedal feel. As for bleeding i did it by myself with some silicon tubing 4 empty water bottles and some zipties, put the car on 4 jack stands open all the bleeders then installed the tubing on the nipple. Then i zip tied the water bottles to the struts and ran the tubing thru a hole in the cap all the way to the bottom, make sure the MC stays full and pump away till theres no bubbles of you fill the bottles then tighten the bleeders.

Awesome idea!!! Im gunna try this. im also gunna go with a wilwood instead of cheaping out on this. ill let everyone know how mine turns out!
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Old 09-08-2011, 04:12 PM   #50
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I have the pbm one it work okay I wish I had dual calipers would work alot better!!!!
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Old 09-08-2011, 09:43 PM   #51
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just waiting on my ASD hand-brake !!!

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Old 04-29-2012, 05:59 PM   #52
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I konw this thread is old but i found this helpful as this is the exact ebrake i have and need to install

Hydro ebrake how to - YouTube
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Old 05-01-2012, 11:43 PM   #53
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Any pics on s14 with center console/interior in place?
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Old 05-02-2012, 08:00 PM   #54
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I have an Isis hydro ebrake. I would like to see pics of S13 with hydro and cable ebrakes still in and center console. I still have a radio so I don't want to put it through the din space.
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Old 06-27-2012, 10:25 AM   #55
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any reviews on the Ksport dual cylinder setup? or is it just a gimmick?
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Old 06-27-2012, 11:19 AM   #56
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Setup-
ASD 14" inch pull down with pass thru + the fittings they offer
Z32 rear backs
probably gonna run normal part store rotors/pads for now.

Haven't got around to getting lines yet but me and my buddy made little custom bracket which ASD sells but like 80 dollars and idk how/where it will fit so you your down to do a little fabbing/modding can save some money there.

We mount mine on the pass side center next to the dash(Look at pics) We Made the bracket and it was kinda loose so we add a backing plate to it which sits in the trans tunnel mounted with 2 bolts/washers/locking washers.

Will give you guys an update how hard it locks/how I like it.

Note:I know it looks like it hits the dash but there is about 2-3mm of clearance and doesn't hit either when you pull down all the way and release it (let go) completly.

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Old 06-27-2012, 08:41 PM   #57
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you must have really long arms to reach that far
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Old 06-27-2012, 10:16 PM   #58
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that shit is awful. america. stock e-brake and some pads works better because you dont need to waste money on a dual caliper system. ppl need to stop relying on these to lock up the rears in a straight line because i bet more than half the ppl buying them get them just for that reason.
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Old 06-27-2012, 10:55 PM   #59
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Quote:
you must have really long arms to reach that far
6'2 and dem monkey arms.

Quote:
that shit is awful. america. stock e-brake and some pads works better because you dont need to waste money on a dual caliper system. ppl need to stop relying on these to lock up the rears in a straight line because i bet more than half the ppl buying them get them just for that reason.
Honestly yes you are right to a point. A stock e-brake with pads will lock it up but the reason I got a hydro is because I don't want to deal with cables getting stretched overtime. I myself hydro for a few reasons but main one was I wanted it to be able to 100% lock up every time I use it.
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Old 07-11-2012, 03:36 PM   #60
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there used to be a link to some brackets someone was selling to assist in licking you rear brakes . . anyone know what im talking about? maybe knows where the link is
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