Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[derass]

I was just reading the FSM and it says to adjust the screw so that you have 800+-50 RPM idling at operating temp. Problem is the ECM is outputting a predetermined duty-cycle for those conditions.

Since you are specifying your own duty cycles with the AEM, the screw's position is not as important. I would suggest you set the screw somewhere in the middle and tune from there.

I can only see you needing to needing to adjust the screw if you need more airflow during a cold start. For example, my tune uses 100% duty cold and about 75% warm.

So if your crank timing and starting injector pulse width are correct with the idle motor at 100% duty and it still doesn't start, increase the airflow via the screw.

I am using Haltech, so some of these terms may be different, but it should be the same idea for AEM.

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by Jorgs_7

Just to be clear, you know Im talking about the plastic Phillips head screw on the IACV? Not the throttle stop screw on the throttle body.

yes, im well aware of that. BOTH must be set to proper voltage for proper idle tuning. the plastic screw (later metal on the notchtops and blacktops) sets a control voltage in the IACV. the throttle set screw sets TPS voltage and sets the correct opening in the throttle body for the car to idle as well (as the throttle body is never fully closed on the SR)... its a 2 part system, both parts need to have proper voltage for stand alones AND OE ECUs to function and tune right at idle. you can mess with the IACV screw once BOTH are properly set to increase or decrease idle speeds (proper idle speed on an SR is 750-800 normal area for deviation). however, if you have to major increase or decrease the IACV screw, you have a vacuum/boost leak somewhere else in the motor (or at the intake manifold). its a pain to set both perfectly, but once you get it, the car idles flawlessly. took me about an hour of dicking around with both to properly set them using NISTune/Consult Cable, but Ive NEVER had idle issues since... and if i do, i know something is leaking or off somewhere else in the motor.

[SoundEfx]

Is there a way to know what model, base or se, S14 you have by decoding the vin? I thought that getting the car fax would have listed it, but it doesn't and this car confuses me.

It is a 4 lug, but has abs and a sun roof.

When shopping around on amazon, the base model rotor option for the base model is only non-abs. I am not going strictly from an amazon selection, but I just want to know for sure what I'm driving.

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by SoundEfx

Is there a way to know what model, base or se, S14 you have by decoding the vin? I thought that getting the car fax would have listed it, but it doesn't and this car confuses me.

It is a 4 lug, but has abs and a sun roof.

When shopping around on amazon, the base model rotor option for the base model is only non-abs. I am not going strictly from an amazon selection, but I just want to know for sure what I'm driving.

What year is it and is it from Canada by chance?

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by SoundEfx

Is there a way to know what model, base or se, S14 you have by decoding the vin? I thought that getting the car fax would have listed it, but it doesn't and this car confuses me.

It is a 4 lug, but has abs and a sun roof.

When shopping around on amazon, the base model rotor option for the base model is only non-abs. I am not going strictly from an amazon selection, but I just want to know for sure what I'm driving.

This might help...


http://garage.projectraine.com/conte.../vinmid01.html

[SoundEfx]

It's a 1995 and I don't think it's from Canada because it wasn't listed in the Carfax and it doesn't have KM/H on the cluster.

BUT, come to think of it, the cluster might have been changed because it reads less than the carfax report(facepalm).

Thanks for that site. It seems all of my answers are in the Model Identification Number.

[JGON85]

I lost the screws to the lower steering column trim when changing out the ignition switch, does anyone have the size of the screw that would be a good replacement?

[Konster]

Looking to buy some wheel spacers for my car and have a few questions, any help is appreciated.

I want to get 20MM up front and 25MM rears.


1. What brand would you recommend between Ichiba, Circuit Sports or Blox (if there is a better brand please post it up).

2. Anyone used Loctite Red for the installation?

3. I see a lot of people using sand paper for obvious reasons, I'm wondering what grit is best since nobody seems to post what grit they're using.


Thanks in advanced.

[derass]

I spent a little extra to get Ichiba and really liked them. I didn't know Blox made spacers at the time, but now that I've looked at them they seem pretty good too. They even have some (except Nissan unfortunately) made from AL7075, which is the best available. That says something right there.

I wouldn't use Loctite. The torquing is more important. I used to work a tire shop that had a re-torquing policy and I've followed that ever since I learned about it.

The idea is to re-torque the lug nuts after ~40km. You'd be surprised to see how much they back-off in that distance. Using Spacers makes the whole process a bit more challenging. It would go like this:

1. Install spacers and torque them
2. Install wheels and torque them
3. Drive ~40km, remove wheels and re-torque spacers
4. Re-install wheels and torque them
5. Drive another ~40 km and re-torque wheels

After this process, you're pretty much guaranteed no future problems. Just be sure to torque the spacers to the lower end of the range to prevent the studs from spinning in the aluminum spacer (which is softer than the steel hub).

As for sand-paper. You need to understand grit. The lower the number the more coarse the paper. Coarse paper is for removing a lot of material but will leave a rough surface finish. Higher grit will not remove as much material but will provide a smoother finish. You can always work your way up from coarse to fine. Just keep in mind that you are removing material if a precise fit is required.

I'd say a good all-purpose grit is either 120 or 200.

[Konster]

Thanks for the in depth reply bud.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by Konster

Looking to buy some wheel spacers for my car and have a few questions, any help is appreciated.

I want to get 20MM up front and 25MM rears.


1. What brand would you recommend between Ichiba, Circuit Sports or Blox (if there is a better brand please post it up).

2. Anyone used Loctite Red for the installation?

Why would you run spacers instead of the right offset? I mean yes, spacers are great when the wheels you have don;t fit right, but if you buy, buy correct offset. Offset is everything!

Stay away from Circuit Sports spacers. They work, but their spacer lug nuts FAIL. Their Lug studs FAIL. Get Ichiba or HHR or anything BUT Circuit Sports

No loctite. Torque the spacer lug nuts and your wheel lug nuts right and don't look back. Check spacer lugs every 3500 miles when you change your oil and rotate your wheels

[Konster]

Yeah I'll probably go with the Ichiba Hub centric.

[Crazyced]

Originally Posted by Crazyced

Someone as a diagram (or picture of the back of it's cover) of the kickpanel fuseblock for the s13 240sx?

I find it very odd that I couldn't find it in the FSM.

Bump on this.

Also I believe the intake/intercooler piping is different for the s13 and s14 SRs but I would like to know if it's because of the engine or the chassis because I have a notchtop SR into an S13 and I'm wondering which one I should pick if I want a new intake/intercooler piping kit.

[kashira kureijii]

Originally Posted by Crazyced

Bump on this.

Also I believe the intake/intercooler piping is different for the s13 and s14 SRs but I would like to know if it's because of the engine or the chassis because I have a notchtop SR into an S13 and I'm wondering which one I should pick if I want a new intake/intercooler piping kit.

maybe it's because they have different turbos...............

can always buy the s13 one and make it work or vice versa. Kinda like when you swap to t28 on an s13 sr, play with the outlets. At least that's what I would say according to my research

I'm sure a google search will produce the result desired, or someone can chime in

[e1_griego]

Throttle body is in a different location (different style intake manifolds high-port vs low-port) and turbo outlet has a different clocking.

[kashira kureijii]

Originally Posted by e1_griego

Throttle body is in a different location (different style intake manifolds high-port vs low-port) and turbo outlet has a different clocking.

^this guy knows what he's doing



damn, I forgot about the different intakes, that should have been obvious damn

[Crazyced]

Originally Posted by e1_griego

Throttle body is in a different location (different style intake manifolds high-port vs low-port) and turbo outlet has a different clocking.

So it's all about the engine and not the chassis.

Thanks

Again, anyone with the kickpanel fuse block diagram?

[e1_griego]

google image search:

[Crazyced]

Originally Posted by e1_griego

google image search:

Thank you.

[corkscrew]

How would I set up a catch can on an s13 redtop with this inlet?

[e1_griego]

That inlet runs to a catch can, other side of catch can runs to the front of the valve cover T.

Also run the stock oil/separator if you can and/or s13.4 valve cover for the best solution.

[partytron69000]

-Is there any special consideration that needs to be made to mate a s13 KA24DE to an s14 5 speed transmission? Looks like the only thing I can find is to just leave the CAS installed/unplugged. Is that it?

[Crazyced]

Anyone got to try these gauges?
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=452448

The seem to fit my needs perfectly. The only thing that bothers me is the 1/8 PT fittings for the sensors (a opposed to NPT). Can they be made to fit the Circuit Sports relocation kit?

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by Crazyced

Anyone got to try these gauges?
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=452448

The seem to fit my needs perfectly. The only thing that bothers me is the 1/8 PT fittings for the sensors (a opposed to NPT). Can they be made to fit the Circuit Sports relocation kit?

ive been running one of these for almost a year now... absolutely love it (especially if you want less clutter on your dash/a pillar)

http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/3in1-...ure-gauge.aspx

[Crazyced]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

ive been running one of these for almost a year now... absolutely love it (especially if you want less clutter on your dash/a pillar)

http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/3in1-...ure-gauge.aspx

It's nice and would be cheaper. But I already have a boost gauge and really want both water and oil temps. I also really want the warning features for all those as I won't be able to focus on small font while on the track.

Thanks though.

[Lompang]

Diagnosing a no start problem for my S14. Dash lights and all accessory works as well as power mirrors and windows, but car doesn't start. Starter makes no noise at all or click. Fuel pump primes and pressure is fine. I checked all relays in the driver fusebox they all work fine, same thing for the Clutch ASCD or whatever in the bay which the relay works as well. Starter was checked at Autozone and they said it works fine. Checked power at the starter said it was getting constant 12 volts when probed. Chassis grounds are fine as well. The only things not checked was the ignition switch or spark. Spark should be fine though had new plugs in a few months ago. Just need to check dizzy and ignition switch, but anything else that would cause my car to not start? It randomly just did not start when I turned it off after driving it for like 30 minutes.

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by Lompang

Diagnosing a no start problem for my S14. Dash lights and all accessory works as well as power mirrors and windows, but car doesn't start. Starter makes no noise at all or click. Fuel pump primes and pressure is fine. I checked all relays in the driver fusebox they all work fine, same thing for the Clutch ASCD or whatever in the bay which the relay works as well. Starter was checked at Autozone and they said it works fine. Checked power at the starter said it was getting constant 12 volts when probed. Chassis grounds are fine as well. The only things not checked was the ignition switch or spark. Spark should be fine though had new plugs in a few months ago. Just need to check dizzy and ignition switch, but anything else that would cause my car to not start? It randomly just did not start when I turned it off after driving it for like 30 minutes.

did you check to make sure the rubber plunger for the ignition engagement switch on the clutch pedal didnt break or fall out down in the floor board area?

[Javi802]

When using a z32 BMC, if i plan on using ss braided lines with banjo fittings, as opposed to the stock hardlines, will i still need the 3rd fitting?

[derass]

No, because the crush washers create the seal. But I would suggest you stick with hardlines, they will not flex under pressure.

[AnonymousBlackX]

best route for 5 lug??

http://www.240sxconversions.com/

http://www.frsport.com/Ichiba-1152-F...SX_p_7818.html

ichiba $$$

I know of these 2 different products or should I just go get z32non turboed or s14??

thx