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Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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05-27-2017, 10:56 AM | #21091 |
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You have a dirty housing, and probably sensor too, in the maf - those pins look corroded, put a little bit of dielectric grease on the plug, and spray the sensor part out with maf cleaner. Don't touch any of it with anything else.
Your MAF and O2 are not the hard start problem. You have a miss (or more). Causes can be a fuel injector not working, a fuel injector leaking, a damaged spark plug or wire, a wire that's slipped off (they should also have a bit of dielectric o the contact in each end, if you remove them), or a spark leaking before it gets to the plug, one way or another. Or, something really bad, like a head gasket, missing piston, valve... Check all your fluids, and report back on what the tailpipe looks and smells like when you start it, when you blip the throtte, etc. |
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05-27-2017, 04:10 PM | #21092 | |
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05-28-2017, 05:17 AM | #21093 |
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FYI:
If you drive a 240 and get gas, DO NOT TOP IT OFF. Gas leaks into the EVAP, causing hard start, vapor lock symptoms when warm, and 2500rpm stutter. This can be random from right after or ten minutes after you fill up, to until your evap dries out. I've heard you can remove the system, but not heard what you do with the sensor. I guess what to do with the sensor would be a small question, since removing shitty parts is easy.
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05-28-2017, 09:21 AM | #21094 | |
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Quote:
If it smokes and smells very gassy, you have a leaking o-ring on the injector. If it doesn't smoke, the injector isn't firing. If it's not firing you could limp it a little way and probably not do any damage (if you DON'T have a head gasket leak), but if it seems to be dumping gas into that cylinder, you'll cause serious damage to the whole engine if you try to drive it. |
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05-29-2017, 08:44 AM | #21095 |
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SR's guru can my lifters go bad if my engine sits for awhile ? Would I have to rebleed them if it sat for more than 6 months ?
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05-30-2017, 10:36 AM | #21096 |
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Me again... has anyone replaced the Neutral position/ 5th gear position switch with the trans still in the car? Couldn't reach it with any tools I currently own, and was thinking cutting a line in a deep socket for the pigtail wires much like an 02 sensor socket. Though I ask before I attempt that route.
Last edited by [240sx]; 05-30-2017 at 11:08 AM.. |
05-30-2017, 12:24 PM | #21098 | |
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- Unplug all four injectors so no fuel is supplied to the engine. - Crank it over for 20-30 seconds to let the oil pump prime everything. - Plug the injectors back in. - Crank it up and let it idle for a few minutes. It may have some lifter chatter at first, but it should go away, especially once it gets warm and you rev it up.
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06-02-2017, 12:14 AM | #21099 |
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KA Freaks, I need you expertise on something.
I'm about to do a chain kit swap on my s14. Anything else I should look into replacing/fixing while I'm at it? So far, I plan on doing the chain kit and main seal. I'm also thinking about doing the Oil Pump Gear + Oil Pump Valve Relief Assembly + Oil Strainer. thanks in advance.
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06-02-2017, 12:30 AM | #21100 | ||
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Quote:
Maybe replace the slave cylinder too?
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06-02-2017, 01:58 AM | #21101 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
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06-03-2017, 06:57 AM | #21102 | |
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Saw my friend do his, next thing you know it was steering rack and new lines, new oil pan, new bushings, like around 1k worth of 'moar' parts. Spec clutch was the best choice, because the fucker got all drifty and went PBM/Driftknuckle.com and ended up with 70* of angle too . Told ya man, 240's a money pit whore
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06-04-2017, 03:05 PM | #21103 |
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Ok guys, I recently went ka-t. I also just got my hands on some bc 264 cams. My current setup is the 248/232 cam swap with the intake came turned 3.5 teeth. I ran this when I was na and it makes the car noticeably more responsive as low as 2k rpm. I know 248/248 would be more ideal than 248/232, but so far it feels extremely responsive and starts to boost really quick(journal bearing 2871, hasnt been tuned so I haven't actually gotten into boost). My question is what would the 264s do to my power band? I'm not at all concerned with peak numbers so if it's going to make my lower end suffer, I don't want them.
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06-04-2017, 05:24 PM | #21104 |
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06-04-2017, 07:48 PM | #21105 | |
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06-04-2017, 07:53 PM | #21106 | |
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Quote:
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06-04-2017, 09:41 PM | #21107 |
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Will it make the car feel laggy? And do I need to do any degree-ing of my cams or just throw them straight in? That will ultimately determine if I'm going to go ahead and install them before I get it tuned
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06-04-2017, 10:23 PM | #21108 |
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S14 spacer question
I recent changed the rear hubs on my stock s14 and now have extended studs as well. I Would like to add spacers to widen the OEM look. Oem s14 5 spoke wheels. How big of spacers can i fit without rolling the fenders? Are Hubbcentric spacers sold without the studs in them? Any help would be great
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06-05-2017, 07:04 AM | #21109 |
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Has anyone sent out an S13 gas tank to be cleaned out inside & coated/lined? Sending unit in the coupe I got was toast so it wont run. Figured I'd just drop the tank since I figured all the bolts were going to break & I didn't want to drop rust into the tank from above since the outside seemed to be in decent shape but fuck...
Nissan wants $700cdn for a new tank. Local shop can clean & line it but need to see it first to confirm if it can be done & how much. Figured I'd run a vinegar mix through it first. I've heard lots of stories about the coating/liners clogging up pumps/injectors?
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06-05-2017, 07:44 AM | #21110 | |
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I know tanks can be cleaned and re-lined inside because a shop I worked at used to make motorcycle tanks from scratch and we'd have them sent out to be sealed up before paint. |
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06-05-2017, 07:52 AM | #21111 | |
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I plan on keeping the car for quite sometime. Going to fully restore/build it & swap over the SR20 from my hatchback. So I'm honestly considering the brand new tank I'm just cheap & am also building an S14.5.
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06-05-2017, 09:18 AM | #21112 |
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That tank is DONE-ZO.
Now, if this were some low production car, you can save it, but depending on your location you could find one pretty cheap that's going to save you RIDICULOUS time and effort. Just look for a part out, just about anything is going to be in better condition...
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06-06-2017, 09:13 AM | #21113 |
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battery relocation issues
having some weird issues after relocating battery to trunk, only the headlights and fuel pump seem to work, I redid all connections and grounds twice. Getting 12.5 volts at the power distribution and hooked battery up to my truck and still only headlights will work (won't go up and down lights just turn on) and fuel pump will prime. The only other thing that goes on is the battery light on dash
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06-06-2017, 10:02 AM | #21114 | |
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What turbo are you running on the KA? It's certainly gonna change how it comes into power, but I'd say it's for the better.
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06-06-2017, 10:11 AM | #21115 | ||
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I'd say running some general 15mm or 20mm won't hurt, but as above depends on tire and drop. Quote:
I've used the vinegar trick with old motorcycle and moped gas tanks with some success. It's a cheap and 'easy' way to try, and it may work...however it seems beyond that trick now. With that said, I'd look for someone parting a car out....but that's me.
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06-06-2017, 10:35 AM | #21116 |
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It's a twisted motion 2871 turbo. I found a thread where a guy is running the same cams and set it up with the intake 10 deg advance and exhaust 2.5 degrees retarded and made 30whp more through the whole rpm range and like 55whp more peak, so I'm going to wait til I get some jwt sprockets before I put them in. Only issue is I get tuned next week so theres no chance of putting them in before hand. How vital is a retune? I know with a KA the tune is the most important thing so if I need to wait until I get another tune( don't want to tune it and then have to pay for another tune a few weeks later), that won't be an issue
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06-06-2017, 01:21 PM | #21117 | ||
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On my old car, I welded a stud to the floor of the trunk and connected the battery ground there. But on my new car, I didn't have access to a welder, so I ran the battery ground to the sheet metal behind the strut tower, near the rear speaker. I was a little worried about the thin gauge of that steel, and it overheating with the current passing though it, so I did a test. I pointed an infrared thermometer at that area, then had a helper crank the car over and over, maybe 10 seconds at a time for a minute or two. This is when the current draw is highest because of the starter motor. I didn't see any increase in temperature during my test, so I stuck with that location. Both setups worked fine. |
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06-06-2017, 01:25 PM | #21118 |
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Can anyone confirm for me that maxima tie rod ends are in fact 14mm? I bought moog S14 ones and they are 12mm thin ones like the S13. I got P2M inners that are thick, if I buy Maxima outers I should be alright?
Last edited by Thursday7; 06-08-2017 at 09:57 AM.. |
06-06-2017, 06:34 PM | #21119 | |
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this is the power distributor I'm using; https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I did a lot of research before attempting this so I'm fairly sure I did everything correctly... this has me stumped for days and I wanna get out and drive If anyone had a similar problem or can chime in with some info please do! |
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06-07-2017, 08:12 AM | #21120 | |
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180sx type x kouki, 1jz, 2jz, 300zx, clutch, faq, ka24de, n/a, non-turbo, question, redtop s13 180sx silvia, s14, search, solenoid, starter, z32, zenki |
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