How To: DIY Paint and Body work

[ze12o]

A lot of good info in this thread. Thanks to everyone that posted.

[Arsenal240sx]

If Im going to paint over the oem paint after sanding does it matter if I use an epoxy or urethane primer? Ive read to use both. Epoxy first and then a urethane to block. How does this sound? The paint is OE 20+ years old. Lol

[Mannykiller]

Painted my engine bay with custom ceramic paint from my local auto paint store.
Cleaned the engine bay as much as my patience would allow.

masked everything off using tin foil and plastic bags with a little tape here and there

Laid down some basic spray can Self Etching Primer

Next was the Silver base coat. Also I did not sand anything at all. But I did remove all the paint off the flat surfaces via a wire wheel and my angle grinder

then I put down the Pink

final coat of pink..I put 3 down

and then Cleared it with an acrylic spray can clear

End result

[s14boy]

Originally Posted by Mannykiller

End result

i like your "tubs" did you always plan to leave it like that? i think its cool to show the suspension of the car when you open your hood but dont you think your going to get a lot of shit in your engine bay either way it looks good to me just curious on your thoughts behind it.

-Mike

[Mannykiller]

Hey mike
There actually isn't any work done to the "tubs" at all. They come like that straight from the factory. I'm not so worried about stuff getting in there. But I have contemplated making some bolt on covers just to keep major debris out. We'll see.

[tapdeznutz]

Originally Posted by buentellomma

How to buff clear coat:
Step 1: after your clear coat has cured for more than 8 hours you can begin sanding out orange peel/ trash/ runs/ sags.

Step 2: there are two ways to sand the clear coat, wet sanding and dry D/A sanding. On this bed cover i did both but i finished with wet sanding. When wet sanding keep water on the surface at all time to ease in the removal of clear coat. If your wet paper does not have enough water it will begin to clog up. Start sanding with 1000grit until the surface is smooth then go back over it with 1200 grit then 1500 grit and finally 2000 grit. Use a 45* angle when sanding then when switching to the next grit go in the opposite direction. This will help with removing the course grit sanding marks.


Step 3: Once you have removed the surface issues, you are now ready to use rubbing compound and a buffer. I like to use 3m and a 3m waffle buffing pad.

Step 4: A good rule to follow is only buff a square foot at a time. I like to lay out about a foot long strip of compound.

Step 5: Take the pad and spread out the compound so it doesnt sling out everywhere.

Step 6: Once you start buffing keep the buffer moving side to side and dont let it sit in once spot for too long. This will heat up the surface and you will burn through the clear coat.

Step 7: this is what it looks like if you buff one square foot at a time. Buffing like this you are less likely to miss spots.

Step 8: Once your part is buffed it is ready to go. Polish compound is optional sometimes ill use it depending on the color.

You should definitely use the Polish Compound or i forget the name of the compound but it will help get the swirl marks out that the Rubbing Compound leaves, especially on dark colors.

[buentellomma]

Originally Posted by Arsenal240sx

If Im going to paint over the oem paint after sanding does it matter if I use an epoxy or urethane primer? Ive read to use both. Epoxy first and then a urethane to block. How does this sound? The paint is OE 20+ years old. Lol

Use a 2 part urethane primer and a 2 part urethane sealer before spraying base coat

[buentellomma]

Originally Posted by tapdeznutz

You should definitely use the Polish Compound or i forget the name of the compound but it will help get the swirl marks out that the Rubbing Compound leaves, especially on dark colors.

Most of the time its a good idea to finish with a polish compound with a polishing buffer pad. What i do to not have to use polish compound is after i buff with the rubbing compound ill spray a bit of water on the surface and buff with that over the area. This uses the broken down rubbing compound in the pad for a finer finish...... Old school trick

[tapdeznutz]

Originally Posted by buentellomma

Most of the time its a good idea to finish with a polish compound with a polishing buffer pad. What i do to not have to use polish compound is after i buff with the rubbing compound ill spray a bit of water on the surface and buff with that over the area. This uses the broken down rubbing compound in the pad for a finer finish...... Old school trick

Ah, very nice. I will remember that when I get ready to paint my car in the next couple of months. Thanks for the tip.

[05subysti]

man so much great info, wish i had the $$ to paint my car.

[tapdeznutz]

Originally Posted by 05subysti

man so much great info, wish i had the $$ to paint my car.

Actually, its not that bad. I figured on using the AutoZone Duplicolor paint in the Quart cans for about $25each. I already have my own HVLP paint gun and access to a large enough air compressor(friends house). I figure I will need approximately 2-3 quarts of base coat(color) and clear coat for my entire car + sandpaper, masking tape and other misc. items. Color is currently white but i want to do midnight blue, its my fav. Then color sand and buff. I can't wait.

[afracer]

I've painted 1 car and lots of body panels, so nowhere near the experience level of the OP. I was using 400 grit wet sand on 2K high build primer and panels came out as smooth as glass prior to shooting the clear, but after clearcoat, I was sometimes seeing sanding lines after all was said and done. I prefer hand sanding body work and primer with wet paper if possible, it reduces the chances of sanding too far or making streaks in filler from clogged paper, and with wet sanding you can almost do your whole car with one sheet of sandpaper lol. What took care of the sanding lines for me was wet sanding the primer with 600 grit before shooting the base coat. Once I did that everything comes out looking pretty now.

[silviaks2nr]

Originally Posted by tapdeznutz

Actually, its not that bad. I figured on using the AutoZone Duplicolor paint in the Quart cans for about $25each. I already have my own HVLP paint gun and access to a large enough air compressor(friends house). I figure I will need approximately 2-3 quarts of base coat(color) and clear coat for my entire car + sandpaper, masking tape and other misc. items. Color is currently white but i want to do midnight blue, its my fav. Then color sand and buff. I can't wait.

That stuff is just spray paint without the aerosol. Use a real basecoat + clearcoat and you won't regret it. Economy clears are like $120/gallon with catalyst and cheaper factory basecoat colors are like $180/gallon w/ reducer.

[tapdeznutz]

agreed on the 600 grit. i had the same issue with 400grit then going to basecoat. i think that only works if you were going to apply a coat of sealer before basecoat.

[tapdeznutz]

Originally Posted by silviaks2nr

That stuff is just spray paint without the aerosol. Use a real basecoat + clearcoat and you won't regret it. Economy clears are like $120/gallon with catalyst and cheaper factory basecoat colors are like $180/gallon w/ reducer.

I was talking to a Paint Supply shop and he rough quoted me around $300-$350 for 2 stage, base and clear or single stage for about $280-$300. He also commented that he thought the single stage would last longer or sometime like that. I really am only using the AutoZone brand because it is super fast dry since i will be doing my spraying just outside my garage since its all cluttered up and i have no where else to spray the car. And again the $100-$150 price is not bad either.

[silviaks2nr]

Originally Posted by tapdeznutz

I was talking to a Paint Supply shop and he rough quoted me around $300-$350 for 2 stage, base and clear or single stage for about $280-$300. He also commented that he thought the single stage would last longer or sometime like that. I really am only using the AutoZone brand because it is super fast dry since i will be doing my spraying just outside my garage since its all cluttered up and i have no where else to spray the car. And again the $100-$150 price is not bad either.

For all the work you're doing it's worth it to spend a few extra bucks, really. You can always wetsand out the trash in your clearcoat... I've done a bunch of garage/outside paint jobs and they turned out looking $3-4k jobs with just a bit of elbow grease afterwards. Here's the latest car I've painted outside in a pretty bare bones "paint booth"

http://zilvia.net/f/builds-builds-on...r-project.html

This is a very good step by step for painting: Perfect Paint Job always follow manufacturer specs and instructions to the T. SPI products are excellent and also very budget friendly, and the dude at SPI knows his stuff!

[afracer]

Originally Posted by tapdeznutz

I was talking to a Paint Supply shop and he rough quoted me around $300-$350 for 2 stage, base and clear or single stage for about $280-$300. He also commented that he thought the single stage would last longer or sometime like that. I really am only using the AutoZone brand because it is super fast dry since i will be doing my spraying just outside my garage since its all cluttered up and i have no where else to spray the car. And again the $100-$150 price is not bad either.

Also, 2 stage paints don't really dry any slower, you can touch base/clear sometimes within 20-30 mins depending on how heavy you sprayed it. Seriously, DO NOT use the single stage cheap Autozone paint, it does not last longer. Spend a TINY bit of extra $, or wait until you can afford it and go with a 2 stage. They have different grades of it, what I do is save money by buying a cheaper base color paint, and then sink the money into the best clear coat I can afford. The clear is the business end of your paint job that takes all the beating from the elements anyway, so you can kinda cheap out on the base coat/color. Also, if you go to a paint shop instead of Oreillys/Autozone, a lot of times they will have mess ups or returns that they'll sell much cheaper. You can also just ask them for the cheapest 2 stage color/clear they've got, and it'll still be 10x better than the cheap rattle can in a quart garbage.

[tapdeznutz]

Originally Posted by afracer

Also, 2 stage paints don't really dry any slower, you can touch base/clear sometimes within 20-30 mins depending on how heavy you sprayed it. Seriously, DO NOT use the single stage cheap Autozone paint, it does not last longer. Spend a TINY bit of extra $, or wait until you can afford it and go with a 2 stage. They have different grades of it, what I do is save money by buying a cheaper base color paint, and then sink the money into the best clear coat I can afford. The clear is the business end of your paint job that takes all the beating from the elements anyway, so you can kinda cheap out on the base coat/color. Also, if you go to a paint shop instead of Oreillys/Autozone, a lot of times they will have mess ups or returns that they'll sell much cheaper. You can also just ask them for the cheapest 2 stage color/clear they've got, and it'll still be 10x better than the cheap rattle can in a quart garbage.

Thanks for the rreminder about the paint returns. I totally forgot about that. I will just need to make time and visit my local paint store. Guess you right for another $100 or so i can get automotive grade paints. Well i am still finishing up bodywork anyways so i have sometime to figure it out. thanks for inputs.

[silviaks2nr]

Originally Posted by tapdeznutz

Thanks for the rreminder about the paint returns. I totally forgot about that. I will just need to make time and visit my local paint store. Guess you right for another $100 or so i can get automotive grade paints. Well i am still finishing up bodywork anyways so i have sometime to figure it out. thanks for inputs.

Be careful about some of the "goof up" paints from the paint store. While the paint itself may be really cheap the activator/reducer you have to use for it can be super duper expensive and can cost more in the long run. If you have paint mixed at napa or sherwin automotive get the crossfire/martin senour/dimension base as it's generally pretty cheap. Some colors are a lot more expensive though obviously depending on the pearls and tints. Like AFracer said it's all about the clear too. I find that the SPI universal high solids clear is the best bang for your buck and it buffs easily unlike a production clear which is perfect if you have to paint outdoors and sand later.

[Juantwo3]

i love this thread!!!!

[spooled240]

Originally Posted by S14TEENZ

Great stuff in here....very good tips but always remember prep is key. There are things you cant see when primer is applied. When basecoat is appled it all jumps out.


One thing I don't agree with OP is using single stage paint. Maybe for a car yo may not care that much about yes. But not cars for attention. I know you can use single stage urethane paint and then go over with urethane clear. But still single stage is for taxis and shit.

Originally Posted by buentellomma

Who is using single stage on here? I never use or promoted single stage paint. In the 9 years I have been doing this I have only sprayed single stage garbage twice......

What is the drawback to using single stage paint? Less shine?

I know with single stage paint you don't have to worry about clear coat flaking off and you can buff if it ends up looking dull over time.

my car's clear coat started flaking off so I'm pretty turned off by 2-stage paint right now

[silviaks2nr]

Most OEM reds are single stage. Other solid colors used to be but manufacturers are moving away from that. Single stage is a good option for solid colors but generally costs a lot more for a quality product vs. a cheaper base and a good clear clear of that same color.

Metallic single stage paints are obviously not good as there is little depth to the final finish and you can not sand and buff the paint after it's cured. Whatever trash is in there or orange peel you have to live with or repaint the whole car.

[ManoNegra]

Originally Posted by spooled240

What is the drawback to using single stage paint? Less shine?

I know with single stage paint you don't have to worry about clear coat flaking off and you can buff if it ends up looking dull over time.

my car's clear coat started flaking off so I'm pretty turned off by 2-stage paint right now

color will fade over time faster than a proper - key word 'proper' - 2 stage job.
Specially on a red car like ours from what I've been told.

[spooled240]

what kind of high quality paint are you guys using? Dupont?

If I do decide to do a 2-stage I'm gonna add extra clear

[buentellomma]

Originally Posted by spooled240

what kind of high quality paint are you guys using? Dupont?

If I do decide to do a 2-stage I'm gonna add extra clear

Extra clear is not the answer, its the quality of the product and proper paint prep that will give you a long lasting finish. Also you have to take care of the clear coat if you want it to last, environmental issues will cause damage ( acid rain, dessert heat, areas of extreme cold and snow etc...) As far as good products, i personally use the dupont system but there are many other good brands. I feel PPG and the dupont systems are the best

[spooled240]

have you guys tried this foam masking product? It's used to fill in gaps to protect door jams and other areas from overspray.

PDF:
http://www.nortonautomotive.com/uplo...-Tape-8278.pdf

[Exige]

Originally Posted by s14boy

i like your "tubs" did you always plan to leave it like that? i think its cool to show the suspension of the car when you open your hood but dont you think your going to get a lot of shit in your engine bay either way it looks good to me just curious on your thoughts behind it.

-Mike

Nicely done! Clean!

[buentellomma]

Originally Posted by spooled240

have you guys tried this foam masking product? It's used to fill in gaps to protect door jams and other areas from overspray.

PDF:
http://www.nortonautomotive.com/uplo...-Tape-8278.pdf

Yeah man thats pretty old stuff, i dont know many shops that use it because the cost out weighs the benefit. Its easier to stuff paper or roll the edge of tape over. Great product just not worth the money

[silviaks2nr]

Also if you're doing your own paint job you might as well take off all the panels and spray the jams and undersides of hood/trunk/doors to have a really great finished job. Sure this isn't cost effective for a shop needing a quick respay (a shop would charge $3500-5k for this detailed kind of job) but if we're talking DIY it's worth your own effort even if you aren't doing a full color change!

[Jersthecool]

So what would my steps be when it comes to plastic pieces? I picked up some oem side skirts and they're red and looks like they sprayed primer over the paint and it's flaking off a bunch. What kind of grit should I sand it down with and do I have to use an "adhesion promoter" before the primer because it's plastic not metal? Do you have any advice on how to match the paint to my car because you can tell the car has obviously been painted before so I'm not sure the current color it is or if it's just been resprayed the same color so I don't want it to come out a different color.