This is the roll center, suspension pickup, and steering angle modification thread. - Page 221 - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

AJZax · 12-12-2014, 04:03 AM

The camber plates flipped is to adjust caster at the top instead of pulling the whole suspension chunk forward causing the tierods to over-center early (limiting angle). (answer that one dude)
IMAGINE:
DRAW A LINE
- from inner tie rod pivot on steering rack
- connect that to the ball joint pivot on the LCA/knuckle
the outer tie rod crossing that line is called over-centering.
-----if you think about it, the tie rod is now as close to the steering rack as it can get. So if you try to steer straight again the tie rod can go either way (thats the idea of overcentering at least.

THere are plenty of self-steer forces (haha) that should save you, but overcentering is dangerous.

SO, adding caster pulls the ball joint further forward, making the tie rod cross the over-centering line earlier. So if you can add caster at the top without pulling the LCA forward you add caster without over-centering earlier.
_____________________________________

Current setup. Close to over center in pic (not overcentered).
Next generation of front suspension I'm producing will be as optimum as I can get everything. CNC assisted, but production cost is a large target so I can produce them cheap enough to let everyone enjoy wisefab effective front suspension. Solid works models will be done in about a month (lap top with solid works broke lol) Super excited. It'll have better geometry and more angle and grip than the version I have made now, and it'll be faster to make.

Great engineering extra credit haha

image search

Progress pic of car. First start up should be in a couple weeks!

PoorMans180SX · 12-15-2014, 10:23 AM

Interesting setup you have their AJZax, it looks like you lengthened the DW lower arms? Also looks like you're pulling pretty low camber and caster. You'll want to run offset tie rod spacers or move the rack forward if you haven't already.

You'll have to let us know how it drives.

Motary · 12-16-2014, 08:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AJZax

produce them cheap enough to let everyone enjoy wisefab effective front suspension. Solid works models will be done in about a month

some badass race car engineering going on there with REIB and what not.
If you really want to take them on you are going to need to come up with something hell of a lot better than what you currently have as far as the whole front axle is concerned.

AJZax · 12-23-2014, 03:27 AM

Yeah this was a test platform to see if I actually kind of understood what was going on lol. REIB was fast and easy to make/cheaper. Believe it or not this setup feels really good. Self steer is stronger than OEM so I might pull away some caster.

The heim I used has a radial static load of 40,000+lbs. General engineering rule of thumb is thrust load is 10% of that. So it should hold up fine. That being said, the real set will be on a 5/8" monoball setup. This setup might not even get thoroughly tested since the cad based setup will probably be made before I get a full day of evergreen to myself haha.

I've seen cressidas with economy crappy heim joints for LCA replacements, that was super sketchy. lol Driver went ham in that car.

What in regards to front axle are you talking about? Stub "relocation" to add S.A.I. without needing as much caster?

And yes pivot is moved forward on rack. Eccentric bushings+offset spacers.
Probably should've relocated. Was slightly worried about them making crossmember modifications illegal again, but I don't think they will anymore :/

Definitely open to criticism and would love input guys!

thanks!

mothon · 12-23-2014, 05:24 AM

Anybody have any input/thought on the new gktech front knuckles? any advantage to them over PBM?

Def · 12-23-2014, 11:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AJZax

Yeah this was a test platform to see if I actually kind of understood what was going on lol. REIB was fast and easy to make/cheaper. Believe it or not this setup feels really good. Self steer is stronger than OEM so I might pull away some caster.

The heim I used has a radial static load of 40,000+lbs. General engineering rule of thumb is thrust load is 10% of that. So it should hold up fine. That being said, the real set will be on a 5/8" monoball setup. This setup might not even get thoroughly tested since the cad based setup will probably be made before I get a full day of evergreen to myself haha.

I've seen cressidas with economy crappy heim joints for LCA replacements, that was super sketchy. lol Driver went ham in that car.

What in regards to front axle are you talking about? Stub "relocation" to add S.A.I. without needing as much caster?

And yes pivot is moved forward on rack. Eccentric bushings+offset spacers.
Probably should've relocated. Was slightly worried about them making crossmember modifications illegal again, but I don't think they will anymore :/

Definitely open to criticism and would love input guys!

thanks!

REIB has nothing to do with thrust load. It's that you're loading a threaded shank in bending, particularly during braking on the front wheels. The thread root is a stress riser, so a fatigue failure becomes VERY possible even with a grossly oversized rod end shank. Typical layman understanding is if it doesn't let go in a few outings, then it's good to go, but this sort of failure will usually manifest itself sometime in the future, and it's actually hard to examine since it'll happen right at the jam nut (so it's most likely hidden). The failure will be small at the beginning, then the crack will propagate very quickly.

I'd also caution against designing against max radial loads for any kind of expected loads. Those loads are usually for a major structural failure of the rod end, so you need significant margin to stay away from that value. Dynamic loading and how the liner accomodates that also complicates things.

Motary · 12-23-2014, 12:08 PM

What he said^ and the loads will be high enough to fatigue it pretty quick at full lock and while braking. Drifting as we know is a contact sport and taping a car with your front wheel while twining is very likely to happen. Just use a spherical bearing and us haters will go

ZacKisBacK_Fr · 12-25-2014, 07:49 AM

Hi guys, I just ordered the GKtech roll center correction kit and the rack spacer (http://www.gktech.com/index.php/4130...pacer-set.html)
I'll upgrade my FLCA at the same time.
I have Driftworks FLCA and castor arms, PBM inner steering rods cutted to OEM length, Tein outer.
I would like your advise regarding the new setup as I plan to buy PBM FLCA combo to replace my worn out driftworks. Anything I should be aware of or do you have anything better to advise? Do you think I will need to buy some new PBM inner to get the most angle from the GKtech RC kit?
I'll have the GKtech outer as those come with different length adjusters. Would those be enough to compensate for the cutted inner or do I need some longer new ones?

Thank you for your help and merry Christmas!

EDIT: Front is 18x9,5 ET12 with 255/35/18 tire

AJZax · 12-27-2014, 01:11 PM

Thanks for the input!

I do udnerstand dynamic instantaneous load will be much higher than any given static load exposed to the joint.As I said this setup was lightly tested and felt "good". But all the kinematics/geometry are overhauled and the new setup will be on a 5/8" monoball instead of REIB.

I'll update with the results on that.

I've learned a lot from this thread, and cross-referenced with tid bits from my engineering classes. I don't feel liek I'm a boss at suspension, I just always want to learn more, and I feel the best way to learn is to put what you think you know to the test in real world

I'll definitely be up to date with you guys!

GKTECH · 12-28-2014, 06:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mothon

Anybody have any input/thought on the new gktech front knuckles? any advantage to them over PBM?

Much of a muchness with the exception of weight. I don't have a weight on their knuckles but I would be surprised if ours weren't at least 1kg (2.2lb's) lighter each corner.

az_240 · 12-28-2014, 06:19 PM

Weight of PBM knuckle is 9.5lbs so a little under 2lbs heavier than stock. I believe this is the s14 knuckle. Awesome knuckles for the money.

GKTECH · 12-28-2014, 06:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by az_240

Weight of PBM knuckle is 9.5lbs so a little under 2lbs heavier than stock. I believe this is the s14 knuckle. Awesome knuckles for the money.

Thanks for that so ours are around 30% lighter.

Ours are:
S13 = 6.8lb
S14 = 6.9lb

My guess of +2.2lbs was pretty close

1slowM6 · 12-29-2014, 11:57 PM

You don't need to extend the steering shaft. It telescopes out enough for at least 30mm of rack relocation. Maybe someone has figured out how to move it further forward I guess.[/QUOTE]

Where does it telescope?mine won't budge and I'm hearing from some people to stack 2 steering spacers on my s13

rbs14kouki · 12-30-2014, 12:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1slowM6

You don't need to extend the steering shaft. It telescopes out enough for at least 30mm of rack relocation. Maybe someone has figured out how to move it further forward I guess.

Where does it telescope?mine won't budge and I'm hearing from some people to stack 2 steering spacers on my s13[/QUOTE]

on a s13 we make a custom 1 piece bushing juste like if yiu stack 2

for the s14 my steering colum wont slide out ... i need to cut and weld in an extention

ka-titties · 12-30-2014, 05:07 AM

there's a slip joint on the steering shaft that usually becomes seized on most cars over time. if you take your steering column out, place the wheel-end on the ground and hammer on the shaft end while its in-line with the column, that should free it up.

PoorMans180SX · 01-04-2015, 07:40 PM

Started making revisions to the OG post today. Hopefully have them finished tomorrow.

ka-titties · 01-05-2015, 03:04 PM

made these this weekend:

Motary · 01-09-2015, 08:12 AM

The steering arm looks crazy short, how much lock are you expecting?

ka-titties · 01-09-2015, 09:30 AM

i dont have an expected turnout. this was a "lets try it and see what happens" trial.

the arm is 3.25" center to center, kingpin to tie rod mount.

badbob2121 · 01-17-2015, 02:00 PM

Need some guidance, Why is the FLCA hitting the rotor? What am I not understanding here?

S13 PBM Forged Knuckles
S13 PBM FLCA/Tension Rod combo

derass · 01-17-2015, 02:46 PM

That's odd, you have the correct LCA type.

Taken from their website:
"WE NOW OFFER TWO VERSIONS OF FLCA - BENT OR STRAIGHT
The BEND in the arm has an outer pillowball range of motion thats appropriate for ROLL CENTER CORRECTED KNUCKLES LIKE MAX PRO ANGLE MOD and cars with stock knuckles that have higher ride height or extended track width setting. This is the correct choice for most of our customers.
The STRAIGHT arm version (not pictured below) makes the outer pillowball angle have a good range of motion on cars with a NON-ROLL-CENTER-corrected knuckle on slammed ride height."

Croustibat · 01-17-2015, 03:04 PM

It looks like the shank is not properly seated against the knuckle (see pic 1)

smartoss · 01-17-2015, 03:12 PM

It's probably due to your brake setup what calipers/rotors are you running

badbob2121 · 01-17-2015, 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Croustibat

It looks like the shank is not properly seated against the knuckle (see pic 1)

Both shanks are tightened on both ends. Both sides of the car are having this issue.

Quote:

Originally Posted by smartoss

It's probably due to your brake setup what calipers/rotors are you running

4 Piston Wilwood Calipers and Arizona Z Car 12.2" rotors (1.25" thick)

Croustibat · 01-18-2015, 08:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by badbob2121

Both shanks are tightened on both ends. Both sides of the car are having this issue.

Which still does not remove that possibility. Most ebay specials have a similar problem, where the shank does not fit the knuckle.

These are in no way bad quality, but that thing can happen. Mix a S14 shank with an S13 knuckle and you got a problem.

Quote:

Originally Posted by badbob2121

4 Piston Wilwood Calipers and Arizona Z Car 12.2" rotors (1.25" thick)

Check what the offset of the rotors are. I had a similar setup though, and it did not touch. It really looks like a badly tapered shank.

badbob2121 · 01-19-2015, 01:46 PM

^ I think the issue may be the rotor size/offset. I called and taked with PBM today and they were super helpful. I am going to test fit some stock s13 rotors and see if I am having the same issue and also set the car on the ground with the s13 rotors to check the angle of the shank.

ridesnowx4 · 01-20-2015, 11:18 AM

Man it's been a while since I've checked out this thread, I'm diggin all of the bad ass work everyone's doing! (Y)

hellaslows13 · 01-20-2015, 04:44 PM

Anyone know what the safest amount of threads I need to have the inner tie rod threaded on to the outer tie rod end? I'm running an ikeya inner and moog outer with PBM FLCA and the FLCA is extended about 1" and im running out of threads on the tie rod to zero out my toe...

Also, does anyone know if the PBM inner is longer in length than the ikeya formula?

I know I could always go with a extended outer tie rod end (I knw abercrombie makes one) but I am a bit low on time. (I need these on my car and aligned by next sunday) Thanks in advance.

derass · 01-20-2015, 06:36 PM

Seeing as that Moog outer is made from cast iron, minimum thread engagement would be approximately 1 x Diameter, or 14mm.

Maxima outers are approximately 1" longer than S14 and might be a good option for what you're trying to do. It was discussed in here recently, search to find the exact model year.

ka-titties · 01-20-2015, 09:16 PM

lets not forget that the first page has a wealth of information:

Depending on your knuckle/LCA/tie rod end combo, you're probably going to need longer tie rods. Here's a nice list of lengths:

89-94 240sx.. 11.10" (m12x1.25)
95-98 240sx.. 11.37"
94-99 maxima 11.42"
96-99 i30...... 11.42"
97-01 Q45..... 12.00" (same with 01-06)
00-04 i30...... 12.91"
99-03 maxima 12.91"
03-08 maxima 13.30" (same with 04-06)
PSM Spherical....12.5"

12-12-2014, 04:03 AM	#6601
AJZax Leaky Injector Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: WA state Posts: 123 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	The camber plates flipped is to adjust caster at the top instead of pulling the whole suspension chunk forward causing the tierods to over-center early (limiting angle). (answer that one dude) IMAGINE: DRAW A LINE - from inner tie rod pivot on steering rack - connect that to the ball joint pivot on the LCA/knuckle the outer tie rod crossing that line is called over-centering. -----if you think about it, the tie rod is now as close to the steering rack as it can get. So if you try to steer straight again the tie rod can go either way (thats the idea of overcentering at least. THere are plenty of self-steer forces (haha) that should save you, but overcentering is dangerous. SO, adding caster pulls the ball joint further forward, making the tie rod cross the over-centering line earlier. So if you can add caster at the top without pulling the LCA forward you add caster without over-centering earlier. _____________________________________ Current setup. Close to over center in pic (not overcentered). Next generation of front suspension I'm producing will be as optimum as I can get everything. CNC assisted, but production cost is a large target so I can produce them cheap enough to let everyone enjoy wisefab effective front suspension. Solid works models will be done in about a month (lap top with solid works broke lol) Super excited. It'll have better geometry and more angle and grip than the version I have made now, and it'll be faster to make. Great engineering extra credit haha image search Progress pic of car. First start up should be in a couple weeks! __________________ www.ajdrift.com Mansfield, A - 145

12-15-2014, 10:23 AM	#6602
PoorMans180SX Zilvia.net Advertiser Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Michigan Age: 36 Posts: 5,574 Trader Rating: (16) Rides Gallery: PoorMans180SX Feedback Score: 16 reviews	Interesting setup you have their AJZax, it looks like you lengthened the DW lower arms? Also looks like you're pulling pretty low camber and caster. You'll want to run offset tie rod spacers or move the rack forward if you haven't already. You'll have to let us know how it drives. __________________ Build: http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=643065 Friends don't let friends buy knock-offs.

12-23-2014, 03:27 AM	#6604
AJZax Leaky Injector Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: WA state Posts: 123 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	Yeah this was a test platform to see if I actually kind of understood what was going on lol. REIB was fast and easy to make/cheaper. Believe it or not this setup feels really good. Self steer is stronger than OEM so I might pull away some caster. The heim I used has a radial static load of 40,000+lbs. General engineering rule of thumb is thrust load is 10% of that. So it should hold up fine. That being said, the real set will be on a 5/8" monoball setup. This setup might not even get thoroughly tested since the cad based setup will probably be made before I get a full day of evergreen to myself haha. I've seen cressidas with economy crappy heim joints for LCA replacements, that was super sketchy. lol Driver went ham in that car. What in regards to front axle are you talking about? Stub "relocation" to add S.A.I. without needing as much caster? And yes pivot is moved forward on rack. Eccentric bushings+offset spacers. Probably should've relocated. Was slightly worried about them making crossmember modifications illegal again, but I don't think they will anymore :/ Definitely open to criticism and would love input guys! thanks! __________________ www.ajdrift.com Mansfield, A - 145

12-23-2014, 05:24 AM	#6605
mothon Zilvia Addict Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: oklahoma Age: 38 Posts: 835 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	Anybody have any input/thought on the new gktech front knuckles? any advantage to them over PBM? __________________ instagram: madness_garages14

12-23-2014, 12:08 PM	#6607
Motary Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Estonia Age: 35 Posts: 450 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	What he said^ and the loads will be high enough to fatigue it pretty quick at full lock and while braking. Drifting as we know is a contact sport and taping a car with your front wheel while twining is very likely to happen. Just use a spherical bearing and us haters will go __________________ GKTech

12-25-2014, 07:49 AM	#6608
ZacKisBacK_Fr Leaky Injector Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: France Age: 46 Posts: 81 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Hi guys, I just ordered the GKtech roll center correction kit and the rack spacer (http://www.gktech.com/index.php/4130...pacer-set.html) I'll upgrade my FLCA at the same time. I have Driftworks FLCA and castor arms, PBM inner steering rods cutted to OEM length, Tein outer. I would like your advise regarding the new setup as I plan to buy PBM FLCA combo to replace my worn out driftworks. Anything I should be aware of or do you have anything better to advise? Do you think I will need to buy some new PBM inner to get the most angle from the GKtech RC kit? I'll have the GKtech outer as those come with different length adjusters. Would those be enough to compensate for the cutted inner or do I need some longer new ones? Thank you for your help and merry Christmas! EDIT: Front is 18x9,5 ET12 with 255/35/18 tire __________________ Last edited by ZacKisBacK_Fr; 12-25-2014 at 08:04 AM.. Reason: wheel and tire size added

12-27-2014, 01:11 PM	#6609
AJZax Leaky Injector Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: WA state Posts: 123 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	Thanks for the input! I do udnerstand dynamic instantaneous load will be much higher than any given static load exposed to the joint.As I said this setup was lightly tested and felt "good". But all the kinematics/geometry are overhauled and the new setup will be on a 5/8" monoball instead of REIB. I'll update with the results on that. I've learned a lot from this thread, and cross-referenced with tid bits from my engineering classes. I don't feel liek I'm a boss at suspension, I just always want to learn more, and I feel the best way to learn is to put what you think you know to the test in real world I'll definitely be up to date with you guys! __________________ www.ajdrift.com Mansfield, A - 145

12-28-2014, 06:19 PM	#6611
az_240 Post Whore! Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Phx Posts: 3,097 Trader Rating: (41) Feedback Score: 41 reviews	Weight of PBM knuckle is 9.5lbs so a little under 2lbs heavier than stock. I believe this is the s14 knuckle. Awesome knuckles for the money.

12-29-2014, 11:57 PM	#6613
1slowM6 Leaky Injector Join Date: May 2010 Location: florida Age: 33 Posts: 62 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	You don't need to extend the steering shaft. It telescopes out enough for at least 30mm of rack relocation. Maybe someone has figured out how to move it further forward I guess.[/QUOTE] Where does it telescope?mine won't budge and I'm hearing from some people to stack 2 steering spacers on my s13

12-30-2014, 05:07 AM	#6615
ka-titties Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Near that guy you know Posts: 1,561 Trader Rating: (11) Feedback Score: 11 reviews	there's a slip joint on the steering shaft that usually becomes seized on most cars over time. if you take your steering column out, place the wheel-end on the ground and hammer on the shaft end while its in-line with the column, that should free it up.

01-04-2015, 07:40 PM	#6616
PoorMans180SX Zilvia.net Advertiser Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Michigan Age: 36 Posts: 5,574 Trader Rating: (16) Rides Gallery: PoorMans180SX Feedback Score: 16 reviews	Started making revisions to the OG post today. Hopefully have them finished tomorrow. __________________ Build: http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=643065 Friends don't let friends buy knock-offs.

01-05-2015, 03:04 PM	#6617
ka-titties Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Near that guy you know Posts: 1,561 Trader Rating: (11) Feedback Score: 11 reviews	made these this weekend:

01-09-2015, 08:12 AM	#6618
Motary Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Estonia Age: 35 Posts: 450 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	The steering arm looks crazy short, how much lock are you expecting? __________________ GKTech

01-09-2015, 09:30 AM	#6619
ka-titties Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Near that guy you know Posts: 1,561 Trader Rating: (11) Feedback Score: 11 reviews	i dont have an expected turnout. this was a "lets try it and see what happens" trial. the arm is 3.25" center to center, kingpin to tie rod mount.

01-17-2015, 02:00 PM	#6620
badbob2121 Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: St. Louis Age: 36 Posts: 1,261 Trader Rating: (7) Rides Gallery: badbob2121 Feedback Score: 7 reviews	Need some guidance, Why is the FLCA hitting the rotor? What am I not understanding here? S13 PBM Forged Knuckles S13 PBM FLCA/Tension Rod combo __________________ FOLLOW ME ON INSTAGRAM = BOBBY_LS13

01-17-2015, 02:46 PM	#6621
derass Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Toronto, ON Age: 36 Posts: 1,182 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	That's odd, you have the correct LCA type. Taken from their website: "WE NOW OFFER TWO VERSIONS OF FLCA - BENT OR STRAIGHT The BEND in the arm has an outer pillowball range of motion thats appropriate for ROLL CENTER CORRECTED KNUCKLES LIKE MAX PRO ANGLE MOD and cars with stock knuckles that have higher ride height or extended track width setting. This is the correct choice for most of our customers. The STRAIGHT arm version (not pictured below) makes the outer pillowball angle have a good range of motion on cars with a NON-ROLL-CENTER-corrected knuckle on slammed ride height."

01-17-2015, 03:04 PM	#6622
Croustibat Nissanaholic! Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: France - Toulouse Age: 44 Posts: 1,851 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	It looks like the shank is not properly seated against the knuckle (see pic 1)

01-17-2015, 03:12 PM	#6623
smartoss Leaky Injector Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Brainerd MN Age: 37 Posts: 102 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	It's probably due to your brake setup what calipers/rotors are you running

01-19-2015, 01:46 PM	#6626
badbob2121 Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: St. Louis Age: 36 Posts: 1,261 Trader Rating: (7) Rides Gallery: badbob2121 Feedback Score: 7 reviews	^ I think the issue may be the rotor size/offset. I called and taked with PBM today and they were super helpful. I am going to test fit some stock s13 rotors and see if I am having the same issue and also set the car on the ground with the s13 rotors to check the angle of the shank. __________________ FOLLOW ME ON INSTAGRAM = BOBBY_LS13

01-20-2015, 11:18 AM	#6627
ridesnowx4 Zilvia.net Advertiser Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Gilbert, AZ Age: 38 Posts: 146 Trader Rating: (1) Rides Gallery: ridesnowx4 Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Man it's been a while since I've checked out this thread, I'm diggin all of the bad ass work everyone's doing! (Y) __________________ www.marcbergeon.com

01-20-2015, 04:44 PM	#6628
hellaslows13 Zilvia Addict Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Bay Area, CA Age: 32 Posts: 914 Trader Rating: (28) Feedback Score: 28 reviews	Anyone know what the safest amount of threads I need to have the inner tie rod threaded on to the outer tie rod end? I'm running an ikeya inner and moog outer with PBM FLCA and the FLCA is extended about 1" and im running out of threads on the tie rod to zero out my toe... Also, does anyone know if the PBM inner is longer in length than the ikeya formula? I know I could always go with a extended outer tie rod end (I knw abercrombie makes one) but I am a bit low on time. (I need these on my car and aligned by next sunday) Thanks in advance. __________________ wavybert / zenki / build thread

01-20-2015, 06:36 PM	#6629
derass Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Toronto, ON Age: 36 Posts: 1,182 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Seeing as that Moog outer is made from cast iron, minimum thread engagement would be approximately 1 x Diameter, or 14mm. Maxima outers are approximately 1" longer than S14 and might be a good option for what you're trying to do. It was discussed in here recently, search to find the exact model year.

01-20-2015, 09:16 PM	#6630
ka-titties Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Near that guy you know Posts: 1,561 Trader Rating: (11) Feedback Score: 11 reviews	lets not forget that the first page has a wealth of information: Depending on your knuckle/LCA/tie rod end combo, you're probably going to need longer tie rods. Here's a nice list of lengths: 89-94 240sx.. 11.10" (m12x1.25) 95-98 240sx.. 11.37" 94-99 maxima 11.42" 96-99 i30...... 11.42" 97-01 Q45..... 12.00" (same with 01-06) 00-04 i30...... 12.91" 99-03 maxima 12.91" 03-08 maxima 13.30" (same with 04-06) PSM Spherical....12.5"