This is the roll center, suspension pickup, and steering angle modification thread.

[NAIRB]

Not sure if gktech still makes them. But I know pbm makes knuckles for z brakes

[PoorMans180SX]

GKtech knuckles will be out very soon.

[Jifter]

Does anyone know anything about the Cor Integration v3 tension rods? Are they out yet? They have a serious curve to them! Where can I buy their products from?
https://www.facebook.com/corintegration

[motoxris]

Cor had made some major design changes. They are in the middle of finalizing a new design right now.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk

[TheRealSy90]

^Those look like the old VooDoo13 arm design...

[motoxris]

Actually these been around way before voodoo13.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk

[NismoPlsr]

These are the last updates I got from GKtech.

The RLCAs are not in full production yet, there have been some delays but should be shipping soon.

Like PoorMans80sx said the steel rear knuckles are still in development but should be ready for pre-order soon.

[RobWeist]

As you know that the mobile phone signal jammer can cut off the signals of the mobile phones and soon make it impossible to make phone calls or send messages. In this way when you need the peaceful condition and want to stay in it, you can just use the best mobile phone jammer to help you achieve your goal. And now as the technology develops with high speed the advanced 4g signal blocker has come into the market and are well welcomed by the group of people who need the jammer product.

[PoorMans180SX]

[shaggy0778]

I apologize if this has been covered previously in the thread, but how does the angle of the tension rod affect the camber curve and anti-dive? For example, in a Lca/tension rod combo such as pbm's, how would this differ from an oem setup in terms of camber curve and anti-dive??

[Ryan_1]

if I extend my S14 front lower control arms 25mm what do you i have to change? i heard nissan maxima tie rods or ends are longer? can someone tell me some more info on it.

Thanks

[shaggy0778]

Originally Posted by Ryan_1

if I extend my S14 front lower control arms 25mm what do you i have to change? i heard nissan maxima tie rods or ends are longer? can someone tell me some more info on it.

Thanks

You will have to get longer inner or outer tie rods.

Here is a list of inner tie rods with lengths as written by poormans180sx:

89-94 240sx.. 11.10" (m12x1.25)
95-98 240sx.. 11.37"
94-99 maxima 11.42"
96-99 i30...... 11.42"
97-01 Q45..... 12.00" (same with 01-06)
00-04 i30...... 12.91"
99-03 maxima 12.91"
03-08 maxima 13.30" (same with 04-06)
PSM Spherical....12.5"

You could also get longer outer tie rods (Such as Abercrombie Motorsports)

[rbs14kouki]

On the gkteck bolt-on steering kit !!

What is the style they went with ???



- Standard steering arms are exactly that, they're in the same position as the standard steering arms and are ideal for circuit/track racers or non drift cars that aren't after extreme steering angle
- Extreme steering arms feature; the fastest turninng/transitions of all 4 arms, gives the most inside wheel lock (+12 degrees over factory steering arm), has the most Ackermann effect of all the arms.
NOTE: offset steering rack extenders or steering rack relocation required (we sell offset steering rack extenders for $69 if ordered at the time you're ordering the knuckles)
- JP Special steering arms feature; similar turning speed to the standard steering arm, -4 degrees of lock (yes, slightly less steering lock from the arm itself), very linear response, even at extreme lock angles, - less Ackermann effect than standard or extreme steering arms
- Zero ackerman steering arms feature; - keeps the wheels pointing in the same direction at all steer angles (ie no Ackermann effect), similar turning speed to the extreme steering arm, +3 degrees of steering lock from inside wheel and +13 degrees of lock from outside wheel, less tendency for the tie rod on the inside wheel to overcentre, meaning no need for offset rack spacers or rack relocation, gives the most outside wheel lock (assuming it doesn’t hit the castor rod), reduces tyre scrubbing and avoids washing off speed mid-drift

[marks14]

Originally Posted by shaggy0778

I apologize if this has been covered previously in the thread, but how does the angle of the tension rod affect the camber curve and anti-dive? For example, in a Lca/tension rod combo such as pbm's, how would this differ from an oem setup in terms of camber curve and anti-dive??

I'm assuming that you mean the angle it attaches when looking at the tension rod LCA combo from the top. This angle has no affect on any of the kinematics of the suspension if you keep the knuckle pickups in the same place relative to the chassis pickups. What matters for anti-dive and your camber curve are the pickup points on the chassis and the knuckle and their relation to each other.

[shaggy0778]

Originally Posted by marks14

I'm assuming that you mean the angle it attaches when looking at the tension rod LCA combo from the top. This angle has no affect on any of the kinematics of the suspension if you keep the knuckle pickups in the same place relative to the chassis pickups. What matters for anti-dive and your camber curve are the pickup points on the chassis and the knuckle and their relation to each other.

Are you sure? The reason I ask in the first place is after seeing this in the original post:
"The angle of the tension rod (horizontal plane, front to back) also helps determine anti-dive under braking situations, and anti-lift on acceleration."

[marks14]

Originally Posted by shaggy0778

Are you sure? The reason I ask in the first place is after seeing this in the original post:
"The angle of the tension rod (horizontal plane, front to back) also helps determine anti-dive under braking situations, and anti-lift on acceleration."

Anti-lift is more of a concern in FWD cars.

When looking at the LCA/tension rod combo the angle that the two pickup points on the chassis side and how the strut is mounted determine the anti dive characteristics. So to change this you would have to drill new holes for the chassis side pickup points to change that angle (referred to as the angle of the tension rod) or move the strut around. I think the original posts wording is a little bit confusing.

[Jifter]

Alright so I have welded my knuckles for zero ackerman and need to figure out tension rod clearance. I was planning on buying the Cor Integration v3 tension rods but they still dont have an ETA on them yet..

I remember seeing pictures in this thread of some home made tension rods using thick steel plate cut in a curve with a threaded adjustable ball joint. Does anyone have those pics?? Im planning on making myself a pair. It seems simple enough. I know weight is going to suck but im willing to sacrifice that for some sweet angle lol

[Bink Industries]

Originally Posted by Jifter

Alright so I have welded my knuckles for zero ackerman and need to figure out tension rod clearance. I was planning on buying the Cor Integration v3 tension rods but they still dont have an ETA on them yet..

I remember seeing pictures in this thread of some home made tension rods using thick steel plate cut in a curve with a threaded adjustable ball joint. Does anyone have those pics?? Im planning on making myself a pair. It seems simple enough. I know weight is going to suck but im willing to sacrifice that for some sweet angle lol

have you lengthened you FLCA? if so how much?

[Jifter]

My buddy gave me 20mm extended s13 LCA's to try out. I know I should do 40mm minimum but I want to see how the 20mm arms work out first. Maybe they will work if I make the tension rods with a good bend to them.

[Bink Industries]

Originally Posted by Jifter

My buddy gave me 20mm extended s13 LCA's to try out. I know I should do 40mm minimum but I want to see how the 20mm arms work out first. Maybe they will work if I make the tension rods with a good bend to them.

I have achieved 55 degrees with my knuckle I make with a FLCA I made that was only 1/2 longer than s14 fit under stock rolled s13 fenders with 225s oh and only 5 degrees of ackerman at full lock. so it is possible to get good angle with a mild looking set up anything over that in my opinion you need a good amount of added front track. plus it only helps handling anyways.

[Jifter]

Originally Posted by Bink Industries

I have achieved 55 degrees with my knuckle I make with a FLCA I made that was only 1/2 longer than s14 fit under stock rolled s13 fenders with 225s oh and only 5 degrees of ackerman at full lock. so it is possible to get good angle with a mild looking set up anything over that in my opinion you need a good amount of added front track. plus it only helps handling anyways.

Cool. I will post pics once I get it all put together!

[Black R]

Got my package from Australia:





Yay!

[Jifter]

looks sweet. post pics of full lock for us once u get it all bolted up!

[Motary]

[Croustibat]

looks like porn.

[skateny115]

s chassis knuckles are cast steel not iron

[skateny115]

And when poperly heated and welded can produce a very stong result

These are some i have done.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.n...a4630343bfc4f9

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.n...10022639_n.jpg

[shaggy0778]

How much roll center correction is too much? I Have 20mm roll center corrected knuckles but my car is not super slammed. Probably about an inch of wheel gap.

[tobroketobuildarealcar]

Not to be a dick but steel is speeled steel not steal that is what you are doing when you leave the store without paying

But please elaborate on the differences between cast steel and cast iron

[skateny115]

Originally Posted by tobroketobuildarealcar

Not to be a dick but steel is speeled steel not steal that is what you are doing when you leave the store without paying

But please elaborate on the differences between cast steel and cast iron

Thanks for the correction, cast iron has a much higher carbon content than cast steel. When you weld cast iron it has a tendency to harden and become very brittle. Whereas cast steel when welded if preheated can produce a very strong result.