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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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10-13-2012, 03:37 PM | #4711 | |
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10-13-2012, 08:48 PM | #4712 | |
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That is correct, the FEA's showed around a 300% increase over the previous version. That said, we'll wait for the destructive testing for final numbers where we'll compare a standard (unmodified) knuckle. |
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10-13-2012, 08:50 PM | #4713 | |
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We'll put together a table showing the differences between all the arms such as ackerman, length and angle. This will make it easier for people to determine which is better for them. |
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10-22-2012, 11:51 PM | #4715 |
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I received the rack spacers for both sides and took some measurements. These are pbm V.1 inner tie rod going on s14 lca extended 1", DW knuckles . Not ideal but worked just fine.
~12.5" end to end ~11.75" end to rack ~13" end to rack w/ spacer |
10-23-2012, 10:32 AM | #4716 |
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What kind of front wheel set ups does everyone have? I'm curious to know how wide of 18in wheel i can run without rubbing issues obvious offset matters too.
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10-24-2012, 07:22 AM | #4718 |
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My sr20 4door 32 gets mapped on friday and if all goes well i will be using it in the uk odc finals on sunday.
If you guys remember i made experimental raised front and rear subframes, with geomasters and MAC strut conversion. Watch this space! Ill let you all know how it goes
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10-24-2012, 08:27 AM | #4719 |
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I run a 17x7.5 +33.
~37mm extended control arms Custom knuckles with (as close as I could make them) 0 ackerman and 3.875" from TR-LBJ Tension rod misalignment spacers modified to scoot inward as far as possible Rack moved forward ~30mm No sway bar 215/45 snow tires For a while, I was using a 25mm spacer and adding camber (via the camber plates) for more TC rod clearance, but that seemed to take away rear grip. Too much KPI and scrub?
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10-26-2012, 02:14 PM | #4720 | |
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Anybody wanna point out some of the differences here? I'm trying to buy some outer tie rods that will relocate my pivot point and adjust my bump steer on my lowered s14.
Circuit Sport: SPL Price difference is rather significant among these two. But I'm assuming the only difference among them is the quality of the joints?
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10-26-2012, 02:42 PM | #4721 |
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i've broken two Circuit Sports outers. the heim joints they use are pretty crappy 2-pc things. basically a spherical bearing pressed into a rod end. all fine and dandy until the spherical wiggles its way out.
SPL uses beefy 1-pc heim joints with WAY more articulation angle than Circuit Sports. much harder to bind/bend/break. that's what you really want.
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Last edited by jaysgottaredtop; 10-26-2012 at 03:15 PM.. |
10-26-2012, 03:57 PM | #4722 |
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I never ran cs outers but I've personally broke the shank on another crap brand and it send me into a curb. I was only going about 15mph, but I always think about if I was on the highway. I did run kazama outers and they were quality, but I would personally never run anything but oem and spl ever again on something that important in control of your car.
Spl: Precision CNC machined 9310 alloy shanks for 190ksi tensile strength and incredible impact resistance, to take the abuse of drifting. |
10-27-2012, 09:56 PM | #4729 | |
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IIRC those are just beefier S14 Teins correct? Same length just thicker.
I'd be worried of getting a tie rod too strong and causing damage to the rack. Same way super beefy arms are to your subframe. Tie rods and arms are cheaper and easier to replace than a rack or subframe. If you think about it. Main reason I don't like my SPC arms as I used too. So beefy it turned my subframe into a pretzel.
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10-27-2012, 10:29 PM | #4730 | |
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10-29-2012, 05:52 AM | #4732 |
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Maybe you guys can give some insight on this.
I've got an S14, and it's currently my daily, it's on coils, has some arms (purely for alignment purposes) and it doesn't drive too badly. One thing that I did notice is that my bump steer is pretty bad when driving the car 'hard'. I know this is because of the tie rod being at a funky angle relative to the LCA and that spacing it down would help eliminate the bump steer. Now my question: Is there an OEM level trick/part/method to eliminating bump steer? I'd prefer to avoid spherical tie rod outers if possible so the only solution that I know of would be to have the tie rod mount chopped and dropped at the knuckle... |
10-29-2012, 09:53 AM | #4733 | ||
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10-29-2012, 10:09 AM | #4734 | |
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If your kouki is any sort of low, stock arms will not work to get the alignment straight. And if you're just daily driving the car, you don't NEED aftermarket tie rods.
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10-29-2012, 10:13 AM | #4735 | ||
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10-29-2012, 10:14 AM | #4736 | |
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In a perfect world, I would drop around 1k for drop spindles. But I'm trying to keep it on a budget.
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10-29-2012, 10:25 AM | #4737 |
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What if the bolt/stud was replaced for a longer one also with a longer spacer. Would that work in making the tie rod more level? Just a thought or is that even going to work.
Edit: I'm talking about on the spl tie rod, the bolt/stud that connects to the knuckle.
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10-29-2012, 10:36 AM | #4738 | ||
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10-29-2012, 10:41 AM | #4739 | ||
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Will I be able to achieve a proper alignment with oem outters or are the spl ones combined with z33/z32 inners required? And so basically the rear is established. The rear oem arms won't be able to achieve proper alignment or anywhere near close on a slammed car.
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10-29-2012, 10:46 AM | #4740 |
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Ok, yeah, thanks for clearing that up. I don't currently have a set of those so it was a guess. Good to know though because I was planning on purchasing some.
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anti-squat, best thread ever, kpi, roll center, steering angle, suspension |
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