Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[JrDarknes]

Do I need to get a Aftermarket Fuel Regulator if I have a SAFC?


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[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by JrDarknes

Do I need to get a Aftermarket Fuel Regulator if I have a SAFC?


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no, if you get an adjustable FPR with a gauge it will allow you to set proper fuel pressure... SAFCs are a waste of money. like i said, if you want to go with something that will allow for better tuning of the motor and youre on a budget, $400-$450 gets you a NISTune setup. you will need to pay to have your car tuned properly with it, but it will be a huge help when you decide to go with larger injectors, a bigger turbo and a Z32 MAF after you get tired of that baby dick stock T25

[1on1]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

in my 15 years of building these cars ive never heard of anyone floating a rocker arm on a stock SR pushing a stock turbo. before i forget, 12psi on a redtop IS stock boost, not 7 (7 is factory wastegate pressure). because youre not running the factory boost pressure solenoid, you boost pressure drops back to 7 by default based on the wastegate.

the thing about running an adjustable FPR is that youre running around 55-60psi in base fuel pressure right now because of your walbro. if you get an adjustable unit with a gauge, you can turn it back down to 37.5 psi which is proper base pressure. you should notice a difference in gas mileage this way.

dont bother with a SAFC, you REALLY dont need one for what little you have done to the car. if you want to go the stand alone route on a budget, pick up NISTune for your car and have it tuned. also, the consult cable that it comes with is a HUGE life saver when it comes to diagnosing anything wrong with the SR! if you wanna go a better and more expensive route, a PowerFC Djetro or AEM stand alone is recommended.

I see what you're talking about now about the adjustable FPR. I'll definitely pick-up a Tomei one since I'll be ordering a few Tomei parts next week. As for the FPR, would the Tomei Type-S be more than enough to control up to 350hp (which is my goal).

On another note, when I plan to get a larger turbo and injectors, I plan on getting a JWT. I want a Power FC L/D-Jetro but I'll need to save a little more.

As for gas mileage, I haven't really noticed a difference because I was able to drive from San Diego to Grange Motor Circuit with a quarter tank (round trip I guess half but had to tow it back).

Thanks man!

[e1_griego]

The stock fpr keeps the fuel pressure stock.

You don't have to upgrade it just because you put in a walbro.

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by e1_griego

The stock fpr keeps the fuel pressure stock.

You don't have to upgrade it just because you put in a walbro.

incorrect... due to the walbro being a high pressure fuel pump, it will actually raise the fuel pressure on an OE FPR. depending on what kind of condition the OE FPR is in, fuel pressure will raise to 50-60psi base after install of a walbro which will cause the OE injectors to wear out after extended use just due to age.

[e1_griego]

Guess my car should have blown up years ago, then.

And should be at about 10:1 at idle.

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by 1on1

I see what you're talking about now about the adjustable FPR. I'll definitely pick-up a Tomei one since I'll be ordering a few Tomei parts next week. As for the FPR, would the Tomei Type-S be more than enough to control up to 350hp (which is my goal).

On another note, when I plan to get a larger turbo and injectors, I plan on getting a JWT. I want a Power FC L/D-Jetro but I'll need to save a little more.

As for gas mileage, I haven't really noticed a difference because I was able to drive from San Diego to Grange Motor Circuit with a quarter tank (round trip I guess half but had to tow it back).

Thanks man!

the tomei S SHOULD be good to around 400-450hp i believe. i would actually recommend using an aeromovtive A1000-6. ive been using one of these for the past 9 years and ive seen them used in builds that were pushing past 700hp! youll need to get nipple adapters to run standard high pressure fuel injector hose if you dont want to get into running AN fittings and such.

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by e1_griego

Guess my car should have blown up years ago, then.

And should be at about 10:1 at idle.

wasnt saying your motor would blow up, just due to the added fuel pressure incurred after installing a walbro and the age of SR injectors now, the added fuel pressure CAN cause the injector to stick open permanently. my original set of fuel injectors on my current SR had this happen (cylinder #2 stuck open and would flood). i installed a brand new set of SR purple top OE injectors a few years back and i havent had a single problem since (and no, the o-rings were NOT leaking either, they were all intact and clean when i pulled the first set of injectors)

[e1_griego]

I think you're looking for a causal relationship when really it's just age that's the problem.

20 year old injectors die. I know PLENTY of stock FPR SRs with walbros that have run fine for years.

[Konster]

What's up with the forums lately. Getting error messages and shit. Any time I try to list some shit the forum crashes.

[Jorgs_7]

Whats the scoop on replacement rear wheel bearings? Obviously OEM is great, but 200$ isn't. I know some platforms aftermarket bearings are shit, some aren't.

Any bad experiences with NON Nissan dealer stuff?

Also, are the bearings different per 4 lug & 5 lug? (S14)

[ellopuppet]

Originally Posted by Jorgs_7

Whats the scoop on replacement rear wheel bearings? Obviously OEM is great, but 200$ isn't. I know some platforms aftermarket bearings are shit, some aren't.

Any bad experiences with NON Nissan dealer stuff?

Also, are the bearings different per 4 lug & 5 lug? (S14)

I didn't think you could buy just the rears. Thought you had to get the whole HUB assembly?

[ellopuppet]

Originally Posted by Konster

What's up with the forums lately. Getting error messages and shit. Any time I try to list some shit the forum crashes.

I haven't had any issues in the past few days. Could be a certificate issue on your end maybe.

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by Jorgs_7

Whats the scoop on replacement rear wheel bearings? Obviously OEM is great, but 200$ isn't. I know some platforms aftermarket bearings are shit, some aren't.

Any bad experiences with NON Nissan dealer stuff?

Also, are the bearings different per 4 lug & 5 lug? (S14)

The 240 might be the same, but Timken bearings are considered the OEM equivalent for the G35/350Z bearings. Moog is also a good brand. Rock auto has Timken rear bearings for $78 each currently. The actual bearings are the same, it's the hub assembly that gets pressed into the bearing that's different.

I've used Timken on our Armada (had to replace 3 bearing on that truck so far) and I'll be replacing the rears on my G35 this weekend. The G35 is similar to the 240 in that the hub has to be pressed into the bearing. The hub is actually hard to find (and pricey).

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by Jorgs_7

Whats the scoop on replacement rear wheel bearings? Obviously OEM is great, but 200$ isn't. I know some platforms aftermarket bearings are shit, some aren't.

Any bad experiences with NON Nissan dealer stuff?

Also, are the bearings different per 4 lug & 5 lug? (S14)

seriously, dont be broke dick! if youre gonna complain about having to spend $200 on such an important part for your car... you probably shouldnt be building these cars!

not being a dick, just being honest.

[Jorgs_7]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

seriously, dont be broke dick! if youre gonna complain about having to spend $200 on such an important part for your car... you probably shouldnt be building these cars!

not being a dick, just being honest.

Im not even going to start.

Originally Posted by LoSt180

The 240 might be the same, but Timken bearings are considered the OEM equivalent for the G35/350Z bearings. Moog is also a good brand. Rock auto has Timken rear bearings for $78 each currently. The actual bearings are the same, it's the hub assembly that gets pressed into the bearing that's different.

I've used Timken on our Armada (had to replace 3 bearing on that truck so far) and I'll be replacing the rears on my G35 this weekend. The G35 is similar to the 240 in that the hub has to be pressed into the bearing. The hub is actually hard to find (and pricey).

Yeah, Ive had good experience with Timken in the past for GM vehicles. Wasn't sure what people have had good luck with around here.

[AllThingsGravy]

Can anyone tell me what the very bottom hose is used for? I'm new to SRs and can figure it out, I'm thinking it's for the RHD firewall? Thanks!

[e1_griego]

heater core lines.

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by Jorgs_7

Im not even going to start.



Yeah, Ive had good experience with Timken in the past for GM vehicles. Wasn't sure what people have had good luck with around here.

I guess Timken is a good brand to go for then, even outside the Nissan/Infiniti circles.

[AnonymousBlackX]

Today I went to jump start and it absolutely wouldn’t jump start. After taking a break I got it to turn on I grabbed a buddy and took it to Walgreens to let her charged grabbed some brews and went home. I put her in garage and shut her off hoping that the battery charged enough to turn her back on and as soon as I turned it off boom completely dead no gauges nothing. Last time I went and took her for a long ride it would at least so me what the low voltage is.

when she was running the volts where at 13.3 and obviously the alternator is doing some type of work but not enough? I've never seen that after I shut it off no electrical at all any opinions??? oh and how do I get this thing that is smarter than me to read my battery voltage....

[kashira kureijii]

Originally Posted by AnonymousBlackX

oh and how do I get this thing that is smarter than me to read my battery voltage....

start by turning it from off to the part that says voltage hahahaha. it also needs batteries to work

[AnonymousBlackX]

it doesnt need batts after watching as youtube video I then looked at my car and my battery is pushing a mighty 0.00 volts

what could be causing it to not charge and since it has been dead for 3 months would that ruin my battery?

Originally Posted by kashira kureijii

start by turning it from off to the part that says voltage hahahaha. it also needs batteries to work

[Jibbberish]

So I've got a troubling problem. Running a pretty much stock blacktop sr. Just has FMIC, boost controller (that's turned off, so its just on wastegate pressure), t28, and that's about it. Atmospheric bov as well which comes with its own issues but shouldn't cause this.

Problem is it's going WAAAAY lean at idle, and too lean while cruising. At idle it'll go off the gauge on my AEM wideband, which means 18+. Cruising it was at like 16+, and wide open it was just fine in the high 11's to low 12's.

So I've got the crappy little AFC neo, and I had to go +50 (which is the max) at 500rpm, and +28 at 1000rpm to get the afr at idle to sit around 14.6. And sometimes the engine will shutter for a second and the afr will go down to like 11 then slowly climb back up. Values at other revs had to go to between like +5 and +8 to get cruising afr to high 14's, low 15's. All these settings were done at a local shop on a dyno, timing was checked in the process.

I don't seem to have any vacuum or boost leaks. Wide open it runs just fine. What's goin on here?
Few other symptoms:
-When letting the car decelerate in gear, often times there'll be a loud ass pop that kinda sounds like an intake backfire at 1500rpm. Always at 1500. I assume it's because I'm throwing so much fuel at it down there, but I thought that shouldn't matter off throttle?
-Also, if I clutch in and let the revs drop it'll drop to like 600 and shutter for a second then surge back up to idle. Not due to the bov because in this case i'm not gassing it before I put the clutch in.
-At super low throttle cruising (like 1-5%, when i'm just barely on the gas going downhill or something) it'll go rich as hell, like 12. Increase throttle to 8%ish and up and it'll go back to around 15.

Sorry if this is long winded as fuck lol trying to give a good description.

[dorkidori_s13]

sounds like youre pulling air post MAF, pre turbo... are you using t-bolt clamps and thick couplers or screw clamps and paper thin couplers? you may also be leaking air at the intake manifold as well, get a torque wrench and check torque on all of the intake manifold bolts.

also, clean your MAF and check the MAF plug pins inside of the plug from the wiring harness.

[AnonymousBlackX]

Today I went to jump start and it absolutely wouldn’t jump start. After taking a break I got it to turn on I grabbed a buddy and took it to Walgreens to let her charged grabbed some brews and went home. I put her in garage and shut her off hoping that the battery charged enough to turn her back on and as soon as I turned it off boom completely dead no gauges nothing. Last time I went and took her for a long ride it would at least so me what the low voltage is.

when she was running the volts where at 13.3 and obviously the alternator is doing some type of work but not enough? I've never seen that after I shut it off no electrical at all any opinions???

[AllThingsGravy]

Originally Posted by e1_griego

heater core lines.

I know I need the conversion hoses but can I just delete the whole bottom hose?

[Abc916]

Can anyone walk me through changing the motor mounts to a ka24de? I know everyone tells me to search but already did in the search engine. Maybe just some helpful advice and tips. Please and thanks

[kashira kureijii]

Originally Posted by Abc916

Can anyone walk me through changing the motor mounts to a ka24de? I know everyone tells me to search but already did in the search engine. Maybe just some helpful advice and tips. Please and thanks

buy motor mounts
remove old motor mounts
install new mounts,
done

also pretty sure all the sr/ka mounts are the same, don't think there is dedicated "ka24de" mounts
ca mounts might be different, but I'm pretty sure they're all basically the same
motor has to be outside of the car haha, that's the 1st step FYI

[Corbic]

Originally Posted by kashira kureijii

motor has to be outside of the car haha, that's the 1st step FYI

Don't give advice if you don't know what the fuck your are talking about.


You can easily support the engine with a cherry picker. Guys also use a jack, but I wouldn't do that unless you have an aftermarket aluminum cast pan.

[Corbic]

Originally Posted by Abc916

Can anyone walk me through changing the motor mounts to a ka24de? I know everyone tells me to search but already did in the search engine. Maybe just some helpful advice and tips. Please and thanks

Dood, seriously?

I typed "change 240sx engine mounts" in google.

First link...http://importnut.net/nismomm.htm