mgps13 build thread

[mgps13]

Aristo JDM engine, R154 out of an MKIII, 1jz bellhousing , Z32 na vlsd differential, r32 skyline CV axles, r32 skyline seats,


New home


Chassis: 91 240 that was picked up for $150 with a blown KA
Sprayed single stage black for the exterior, and bed liner for the interior floor pan











Weight reduction:
Some of the things to get down pretty low are not very safe for a street car. Off the top of my head this one has:
* Unneeded bracket removal throughout, even the tack welded ones
* Gutted dash, AC delete
* No insulation / sound dampening (added bed liner to the floor pan once it was stripped)
* No audio
* No front bumper support
* Custom fabricated rear bumper support, more like a bar (this is probably not safe with the stock gas tank)
* Custom front chassis harness (literally lighting and headlight motors only)
* Custom minimal rear harness
* Custom power supply routing / fuse box
* Antenna delete
* Manual seat belts from a 180sx (deleted all of the auto seat belt stuff)
* Custom ECU harness
* Carbon hood
* Smaller battery mounted on the rear passenger corner
* No interior panels except the dash, none (sprayed it all black so it doesn’t look like shit)
* No 2jz AC compressor / bracket, (shorter belt)

[TurboTiger]

Looks like it will be a solid build. Should be drive able soon?

[DILLONDILLONDILLON!]

THAT ESCALATED QUICKLY!! lol great job dude keep it up
whats next ??

[mgps13]

Actually I am cheating, this is from back in the day. I was waiting for the thread to open up so I can catch up to current. There is a duplicate thread on supra forums because of the JZ, but i figured since I am starting to focus more on the chassis that I should be over here as well.

Ok so here it goes:

[mgps13]

Valve seals, Titan 264 cams, knock off Greddy plenum (get to that again later), treadstone t4 manifold, T04S (because i had one ), Billet Tbelt tensioner bracket




powder coated crossmembers and control arms. fabricated a "Power Brace", Energy Suspension full kit, TEIN Springs, 8AN fuel lines, custom fuel pump hanger (running 1 aeromotive stealth for now, but I should be able to fit 3 on the hanger if needed)




Ran the setup for 10K or so, first with a Spec clutch and then with an ACT setup. Then one day on a high rpm shift into 3rd:
THRUST WASHER FAILURE

[mgps13]

After the thrust bearing failure on the aristo bottom end I stole the heart of a lexus for a block and crank. The last setup didnt look too bad, but I did not want to risk it. At a minimum it would have required adding material to the crankshaft thrust surface. I will use the NA block and crank for the base of my build up.


Check out that Tbelt^, this dude was running on faith for sure


So the lower end will go as follows:
* Complete proper cleaning (all oil gallery balls removed)
* ARP main stud kit
* Line hone
* Bored (20 over/86.5mm)
* Manley I beams
* CP pistons (9:1 compression, upgraded wristpins)
* Modified oem oil pump

[mgps13]

After the thrust washer failure I decided to go for less clamping force which meant a multi-disk clutch. Ended up going with an exedy twin disk intended for the 1jz.


Tore down the stock valve train.


Soda blasted the head to get it ready for the build up:






My kid is going to handle the valve lashing for me:


The head build up will include:
* Toyota Shimless Buckets 13751-46200 5.40mm (24)
* Ferrea Comp Plus Valve F1498P (x12)
* Ferrea Comp Plus Valve F1499P (x12)
* Ferrea Beehive spring S2021 (x24)
* Ferrea Titanium Retainer E12029 (x24)
* Ferrea Valve Guide VG1035 (x12)
* Ferrea Valve Guide VG1034 (x12)

[ayrtonlucyk]

incredible.

[Hoonigan19]

sick build man

[mgps13]

Got invited to a local (unsanctioned) runway event that was a lot of fun. I left the car on 10psi, so I guess it was making somewhere in the 400s. The cops ended up coming later since someone probably called like a little b*&%$.

[Hoonigan19]

man, that block looks so clean, your a ballar eh

[mgps13]

Originally Posted by Hoonigan19

man, that block looks so clean, your a ballar eh

nah man, its hard work getting my builds going:
How to get $$ for your build

[mgps13]

both cars were on ~14psi

from RB car:


from JZ car:

[mgps13]

Next rear end setup:
(GKTech RUCAs, solid subframe bushings, AGX shocks, 275/40/17 nt05s,new oem control arms, 3.9 j30 diff, powder coated everything else)




Hoping for some better traction and wheel hop prevention.

[mgps13]

I got all of the rear suspension put together and installed the wider street tires. On 14 psi it sticks OK on the street, but I am hoping that it will work out at the track too. If the wheel hop doesn't show up then I will be happy.

If any one has a time machine, please go back and time and kill whoever thought it was cool to make all of the Nissan r200 differentials so similar yet still different:


The J30 diff had 6 bolt axle stubs, but I wanted to keep my 5 bolt R32 axles in my setup. My first thought was to swap the z32 stubs into the j30 diff (WRONG), the J30 DIff stubs are longer and have a larger diameter shaft. Nissan makes 3 different vlsd shaft sizes and spline counts, just to keep things interesting I guess,...fuckers.

Undeterred I came up with the idea of swapping the z32 vlsd unit into the j30 case with the j30 ring and pinion. When this setup is shimmed in the J30 manner you almost get a working diif, except that because of the change in shimming now the z32 vlsd shafts are not the correct length, by like an 1/8th of an inch. This causes the drivers side shaft to stick out a tad too far (no issue), but also causes the passenger side shaft to be just barely too short to get to the c clip grove (those fuckers...) But hey no big deal right, Nissan actually made a diif that has this ratio and the 5 bolt output stubs, unfortunately its not the one in my garage at the moment, so back to the z32 diff for now.

Either way more rubber:


Rear camber at ~zero

[mgps13]

Need to run some bigger gears in the back, I'm still on the z32 as I have not found another diff yet. the car seemed to hop worse at times with the increased rubber

Right side #15:
`
`

[mgps13]

Car was still sucking at putting down anything at low speeds... Still lots of work todo

mgp 2jz s13 vs z06 (20 roll)


mgp 2jz s13 vs 5.0 mustang (40 roll)


mgp 2jz s13 vs turbo nsx (20 roll)

[ray_dizzle33]

Very very nice man! Great work on the motor especially it looks great! Keep up the good man

[mgps13]

1.9 60ft, running off the spring (9-10psi) in first gear. Second gear (14psi) and then up to about ~18psi for 3-4





Drag radials are next. I am hoping with a better 60ft I can get into the high 10s

[mgps13]

OK so I broke an axle at the track a couple of weeks back which put me down for a little while, but I found an temporary fix for those who are running 5 bolt axles. I picked up a used set of ET street radials in 275 40 r17 for a good price and tried them out. The first time I heat cycled them they umm... worked. What was weird was that I didnt break it at the line it was like 30 feet down the track right about where I finished slipping the clutch. The axle may have been on its way out though from all of the wheel hopping in the past.





Since I am not ready to upgrade to the z32/q45 setup, I found another solution for the time being. It appears that 350z axles are about the same dimensions as the the J30, except in a 6 bolt round pattern. The J30 axles are longer than my old r32 axles but still usable. What I ended up doing is building a hybrid axle from my r32 5 bolt and the z33 6 bolt.

Outside are some J30 axles I borrowed for comparison, inside is 350z:



Here is the process of turning a 350z axle into a usable 5 bolt axle. The 350z has the same spline on the wheel side as the 240sx, and comes with a lifetime warranty

[mgps13]

My r154 shifter housing has always been warped. I got it out a junkyard MKIII for cheap mainly because it had been droped and the housing took most of the injury. Anyways, to get the thing to not sweat gear oil I decided to just remake it for the most part:







I also added a vent which I did not show here, either way it doesn't sweat anymore. I does however squirt gear oil up through the shifter under heavy load usually at the top of 3rd or 4th FML. (it is not overfilled)

[mgps13]

So my sixty foot is still bad, but I was being gentle to not break another cv axle. I didn't get a chance to run again this night, so I will have to see what happens next time. Please ignore my annoying nervous shifter practice in neutral.

[Heywood Jablomie]

Damn that thing is fast. Nice build man, love the car!

[mgps13]

Stars never line up right and the junkyard r154 goes into 3rd smoothly like one out of three runs. I'm going to try a larger gear next, probably 3.69 from the Q45. I think just the gear alone will push it into the tens.

[Almighty So]

so close!
i believe next update will be 10s. you got this haha

[mgps13]

Staying with a 275/40/17 but I am going to run a new set of Hoosier drag radials on a pair of track only wheels

[mgps13]

Machined the q45 input flange to fit the s chassis driveshaft:

[mgps13]

I decided to go with the Hoosiers for the weight savings over MT and I got a cheap pair of semi-light wheels to run them on. This way I don't ever have to drive them on the street.

still 275/40/17





New gearing works out like this:



^ Now I will just have to see how it goes at the track...

[mgps13]

[mgps13]