Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[lewisfk]

odd ball question, I have a brand new walbro 255 fuel pump I bought for my sr20. I wanted to know if it will fit a GM sending unit.

[corkscrew]

Anyone with a greddy intake mani have issues with a high or fluctuating idle?

[kashira kureijii]

This was a while back, but just to sorta show a conclusion and give more info,

The S15 T28 oil drain Hose will not work on an RB. The hose is to short, and not the right diameter.

I couldn't find any OEM ones so I just made one, which was sorta obvious from the beginning but I thought I should try to use the T28 drain and make sure.

Thanks Corbic for the correct advice which I declined to heed.

[corkscrew]

Anyone with a greddy intake mani have issues with a high or fluctuating idle?

[Gingersmurf]

Originally Posted by kashira kureijii

there is no such wheel as a weds zeta 03........i thought it was kinda obvious....
............you're welcome I guess. ..........I feel bad now.......I mean it was sorta funny right?

Lol, just saw you replied. I knew your comment wasn't helpful, i was being facetious. Thus why it took so long to find them, searching for a wheel with no indication of what they are is difficult.

[vlrb30]

hey guys, i did a search but didnt find any answers.

I have a s14, it has needed its front left wheel bearing replaced for over a year, but i've been a total cheepskate and not done it. anyway lately, (this year) been hearing a squealing coming from front left, as an engineer it sounded to me like the bearing spinning in its carrier. This is because it is continuous and changes with the speed of the car, i.e it is not the brakes i'm fairly certain.

Anyway its in the workshop getting done now at long last, but my mechanic said it just sounded like a rumbly bearing he couldn't hear it squealing. I should be probably posting this tonight after i'm sure that the new bearing didn't fix the problem, but if it wasn't the bearing causing the squealing any ideas what it could be? Cheers

[vlrb30]

oh and also the mechanic said the bearings carrier, i'm assuming its the hub, though i don't know what the exact assembly is like, looked like it was in good condition and the bearing hadn't been spinning in it

[dorkidori_s13]

replace the bearing, youll be fine.

[SoundEfx]

I know that the S13 and S14 front coilovers are interchangable, but the rears are not due to length and upper stud spacing.

If someone tries to hand me a S13 coilover trying to pass it off for a S14, what are the measurements I can perform to ensure that I'm getting a proper S14 rear coilover?

[e1_griego]

It's like 8" longer. Not a subtle difference.

Also the s14 front coilovers take a larger bolt than s13, just fyi.

google images search s14 coilovers and s13 coilovers and look at the relative lengths between the front and the rear. That'll give you an idea.

I think you're overthinking used coilover buying.

[dz1]

Ok guys i need your help I have a 1995 240sx
One of my corner bulbs went out so I bought an Led now my dash light, my corner light, and tail lights, and license plate lights don't work when I turn them on with the switch.

However I know they work because when I press my alarm button they all turn on as normal.


hazards, blinkers, brakes, headlights high beams work as normal.

All lights work just not with the switch what fuse did I blow?

[SoundEfx]

Originally Posted by e1_griego

It's like 8" longer. Not a subtle difference.

Also the s14 front coilovers take a larger bolt than s13, just fyi.

google images search s14 coilovers and s13 coilovers and look at the relative lengths between the front and the rear. That'll give you an idea.

I think you're overthinking used coilover buying.

Thanks man. Honestly, I'm so new to the 240 that I have never seen the coilovers in person.

[chaseaman]

i just bought an s13 240 with a s14 sr20det there is no powersteering belt or tensioner or pully on the pump dose anyone know where i can find these parts ive looked and cant seem to find aanything any help at all would be great thanks

[derass]

You can get the belt from any parts store but I'm guessing it's disconnected because it leaks.

[Habibi240]

Any way to tell if a rack and pinion is good with out the motor in the car ? S13

[mau5trap]

How much would you guys pay for a brand new set of s14 Stance GR+ pro's?

[Almighty So]

^ if they're brand new, why not just check prices online for brand new ones..?

$1300-1400 from Amazon, frsport.

[mau5trap]

Originally Posted by Almighty So

^ if they're brand new, why not just check prices online for brand new ones..?

$1300-1400 from Amazon, frsport.

sorry, I forgot to add from a private seller

[Habibi240]

Originally Posted by mau5trap

sorry, I forgot to add from a private seller

Offer and go from there

[kashira kureijii]

So I have read through the first page of the roll center adjustment thread a few times, and I feel like I sorta know what each part of the suspension arm system does, I just don't know where to begin.

Don't say "why did you buy shit you don't know how to use?" please, I am trying to get better at stuffs

here is the setup

Circuit sports suspension arm package
Circuit sports inner and outer tie rods
ST rear swaybar, stock front because the ST front wouldn't clear the RB oilpan
new bushings.
FA 500 coils.

I took both of the subframes down on my car to put the arms and all that shit on, So I'm pretty sure the suspension is gonna be pretty misaligned.
I don't know much about suspension, and haven't really done something like this before. I really want to learn how to do all this correctly.

Should I take the car to get aligned and then adjust from the alignment?
I can't take it to nissan because of the arms, and I am afraid to take it to a alignment place, because they are commonly run by dumbasses who think they expert "mechanics" Do most alignment places have experience with these type of aftermarket arms? or will they see that everything is different (no longer use the alignment bolt in rear) and freak out?

Can I align it myself? What would I need?

Sorry for the suspension noobery

[Bleakley]

I am not very knowledgeable about suspension, but I used to take my car to SEARS before I met people. I talked to the shop manager about me going into the shop and she didn't care as long as it didn't lengthen the time of the job (edit- I did have steel toes and safety glasses I just happened to have in the car) I told him what I needed, watched him and told him how to spec it (couldn't touch the car due to their safety crap, let alone be in the shop) til I said okay, and that was that. I don't trust anyone with my car anymore and if I can not escort my vehicle through services I can not perform I take my car elsewhere. Simple as that.

[Habibi240]

I've yet to get my alignment but I heard Firestone has a lifetime warranty on alignments but they cost 180

[Habibi240]

Originally Posted by dz1

All lights work just not with the switch what fuse did I blow?

Sounds like the switch

[I'm Redline]

Look in the quote for answers:

Originally Posted by kashira kureijii

So I have read through the first page of the roll center adjustment thread a few times, and I feel like I sorta know what each part of the suspension arm system does, I just don't know where to begin.

Don't say "why did you buy shit you don't know how to use?" please, I am trying to get better at stuffs

here is the setup

Circuit sports suspension arm package Get these on first, making sure to lightly grease all threads and match the stock length parts as close as possible on length adjustments
Circuit sports inner and outer tie rods Put these on next, and adjust all parts so that your wheels are as close to aligned as possible
ST rear swaybar, stock front because the ST front wouldn't clear the RB oilpan BUY thee ST front bar, and fab frame plates to drop it so it clears your RB oil pan
new bushings.Since all your arms came with new bushings, install the rest of the bushing kit. IF you want to use your bushings in the new arm set, make sure they fit, and install them before installing the arms
FA 500 coils. Install at the same time as the arm set, first since you will need them installed

I took both of the subframes down on my car to put the arms and all that shit on, So I'm pretty sure the suspension is gonna be pretty misaligned.
I don't know much about suspension, and haven't really done something like this before. I really want to learn how to do all this correctly.
The best you can do by eye is get stuff aligned as close as possible, then slowly drive to your alignment shop. CALL the shops first to be sure thy are experienced in your set up. Our local Firestone alignment crew knows these aftermarket set ups and does a great job adjusting it all. LIFETIME ALIGNMENT is SO worth it!

Should I take the car to get aligned and then adjust from the alignment?
I can't take it to nissan because of the arms, and I am afraid to take it to a alignment place, because they are commonly run by dumbasses who think they expert "mechanics" Do most alignment places have experience with these type of aftermarket arms? or will they see that everything is different (no longer use the alignment bolt in rear) and freak out?

Can I align it myself? What would I need? You will need the 'string kit' that many drift race shops use
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p..._Alignment_Kit
It's pricey, but it does a kick ass job and will get you to within .5* of perfect

Sorry for the suspension noobery
We all have to begin somewhere. I am new to 240, but experienced in track applications on suspensions, frames, and proper set up from vintage racing on Mustangs, Cortina's, and Alfa 1600's. I am totally in love with teh 240 for what it is and the huge potential it has to be a great car

To fab a frame plate, simply measure the width of the frame and the length you need. Make sure you take a paper/posterboard, and MAKE A TEMPLATE of the holes. Any fab shop will have sheet steel and can cut and drill for you so long as you give them the proper dimensions and the template for the holes. I am guessing your oil pan is not interfering more than an inch so this is the best way to clear it. You don't want to lift the engine since keeping weight low is key. You will need longer sway bar bolts at this point(your fab plates). Having the front bar for the set will allow your car to be properly set up and statically tuned. The OE bar in front, and heavy bar in back will cause body roll in front, and force a understeer condition in a car you want to oversteer(back drift out, not front snowplowing in corners)

I hope I have not confused you anywhere and that you now have a better idea on what to do to make it all work

[kashira kureijii]

Originally Posted by Bleakley

.

Thanks dudes, I think, I understand what needs to be done now. When I installed all this stuff I measured the spacing on each arm, and tried to get them pretty close to similar. for the front I just sorta tried to get them equal length and have the wheels in the same toe.

As for the swaybar, I actually already have the ST front swaybar, and the syko mount kit (which includes the little frame spacer deals.) I was having a little trouble with the brackets the ST kit gives you, as they are just normal brackets and don't have one side longer than the other like the stock brackets(which it what the syko spacer kit is designed for), ST kit gives you a bunch of washers that are supposed to remedy it just by spacing it out with a longer bolt. I'll figure it out though, I'm sure that if I mess with it enough it will work out.

Thanks for the advice dudes. I will take it to Firestone, when I get it all figured out.

[ShakotanGazelle]

So wtf holds the trunk lock cylinder in place? My car didn't have one when I bought it so I bought a round Silvia lock and it seems like there's supposed to be some sort of clip behind it?

Also if anyone has what I'm looking for that'd be sweet.

[chaseaman]

Originally Posted by derass

You can get the belt from any parts store but I'm guessing it's disconnected because it leaks.

The belt broke when the provirus owner had it and he took the tensioner off along with the pulley the pump or lines never leaked to my knowledge

[derass]

Originally Posted by kashira kureijii

Circuit sports suspension arm package
Circuit sports inner and outer tie rods
FA 500 coils.

Can I align it myself? What would I need?

Here's my advice. After you have installed everything, first set the ride height. Setting the TC and Traction rod lengths is a bit tricky without the right equipment, TC especially. Just set TC length to stock, these cars have a ton of caster anyways.

Then set the traction rod length after reading this: http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=1652

You can do most of the alignment yourself. I use this technique for toe and camber: http://www.negative-camber.org/jam14...alignment.html

Set the camber using the method in the first link. Anywhere between -0.5 and -3.0 is good. Just make sure it's even side-to-side and that there is more in the front than rear.

Finally set the toe. You want about 1/16" toe-in both front and rear.

Originally Posted by chaseaman

The belt broke when the provirus owner had it and he took the tensioner off along with the pulley the pump or lines never leaked to my knowledge

I find it very suspicious that instead of replacing a $10 dollar belt they chose to remove more parts. That's why I think it was leaking.

[mr.nismo.]

I've been searching all kinds of shit for this and am curious. I recently picked up an Ecu for my Sr with a 550cc/n62 tune. I was looking into sti injectors but everything is so conflicting id rather not fuck with it. I've been looking for some FS but everyone and their mom has 555cc and not 550. Am I going to have huge issues with 555's in there instead of 550? If it is then I'll just buy new 550's since I can't seem to find any FS. Thanks in advance !


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[derass]

It would just run slightly more rich. Perhaps you could send the ECU back for an adjustment or correct for the larger injectors with an SAFC. Deatschwerks and Five O are both available in 550 and are quite cheap.