2JZGTE Swapped S-Chassis thread

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trd parts. as in a coil pack and thermostat.

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Originally Posted by Flicktitty

Don't, tons of bad reviews on SupraForums, what you looking to buy?

TRD parts as in a coil pack and thermostat.

[Flicktitty]

Check with Driftmotion, or Curt at Elmhurst Toyota.

This is Curt's sig on Supraforums

[email protected]

630.279.2265 parts direct
630.835.0122 parts fax

Elmhurst Toyota Scion

Elmhurst Toyota - Toyota, Scion - Dealership Ratings

My weekly hours are 3:45am CST-4:00pm CST M-F CENTRAL STANDARD TIME

You can call me or use e-mail. If you use e-mail I need your name,address,phone number and CCinfo and items requested.

[PG BOOSTED]

Originally Posted by Flicktitty

Check with Driftmotion, or Curt at Elmhurst Toyota.

This is Curt's sig on Supraforums

ok thank you.

[Mr. Phonso]

When I checked the trd thermo price off Curt it was over 100$. Prices have gone up..

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Originally Posted by Mr. Phonso

When I checked the trd thermo price off Curt it was over 100$. Prices have gone up..

I found a thermostat on driftmotion thanks to FlickTitty. I'm not exactly sure if its TRD or not but atleast i found one.

[Flicktitty]

Originally Posted by Mr. Phonso

When I checked the trd thermo price off Curt it was over 100$. Prices have gone up..

i heard they are stopping production, or cutting production, So Mishimoto is really gonna corner the market for this i think.

[Mr. Phonso]

For anyone on the previous page wondering use this if you want to go from the stock FSU rubber lines to make life easier:



AEROMOTIVE 15635

[RickS14]

^^Nice thanks!

[BoostedVR4]

Originally Posted by Flicktitty

Everyone is running that 6266. What A/r did you get?

It was on eBay used for 42 miles. Had the 1.15AR.

Freed told me that on the back of the gauge cluster the tach has a POT you can adjust, and usually get the signal dialed in without the need for the Dakota box.

Thoughts anyone?

[BigPawr]

Originally Posted by BoostedVR4

Freed told me that on the back of the gauge cluster the tach has a POT you can adjust, and usually get the signal dialed in without the need for the Dakota box.

Thoughts anyone?

When I had an RB25 in an S14 I adjusted my stock tach to try and dial it in, but it never really was right. It would seem ok for 1-3k rpm, but as it got higher it would almost start to exponentiate more and more and become noticeable being off. I'd imagone this would happen the same for a 2JZ as well. But it doesn't hurt for some one to mess around with a stock gauge and see if they truely can tune it to match the 2JZ rpms. But you'll need something that is correct to compare it to, like hooking up an aftermarket tach to compare. But in the the end, I think you'll be in the same boat with it not being correct.

[JohanM]

Originally Posted by BigPawr

When I had an RB25 in an S14 I adjusted my stock tach to try and dial it in, but it never really was right. It would seem ok for 1-3k rpm, but as it got higher it would almost start to exponentiate more and more and become noticeable being off. I'd imagone this would happen the same for a 2JZ as well. But it doesn't hurt for some one to mess around with a stock gauge and see if they truely can tune it to match the 2JZ rpms. But you'll need something that is correct to compare it to, like hooking up an aftermarket tach to compare. But in the the end, I think you'll be in the same boat with it not being correct.

you sir are correct, same thing with a guy i know that has a rb25 in a s14.

[BoostedVR4]

Originally Posted by BigPawr

When I had an RB25 in an S14 I adjusted my stock tach to try and dial it in, but it never really was right. It would seem ok for 1-3k rpm, but as it got higher it would almost start to exponentiate more and more and become noticeable being off. I'd imagone this would happen the same for a 2JZ as well. But it doesn't hurt for some one to mess around with a stock gauge and see if they truely can tune it to match the 2JZ rpms. But you'll need something that is correct to compare it to, like hooking up an aftermarket tach to compare. But in the the end, I think you'll be in the same boat with it not being correct.

Okay, makes sense. I'll have the EMS to look at, can't hurt to try first. If I can't get it matched, I'll get the piggyback. Thanks for the info.

[Mr. Phonso]

So can the Dakota box accurately match the rpms throughout the range to 8000?

[BigPawr]

Originally Posted by Mr. Phonso

So can the Dakota box accurately match the rpms throughout the range to 8000?

It should have no problem with amount of RPM range. The Dakota box is simply a box that can take the electrical signal from a 6 cylinder engine and then converts it to a 4 cylinder signal of the same matching RPM to send to the gauge. So lets say for example a 6 cylinder engine/trans sends a signal out of 8 volts to the 6 cylinder gauge to have it show 4,000 rpm, but a 4 cylinder gauge takes 6 volts to show 4,000 rpm. The box simply takes the 8 volts in one side and then converts to send out 6 volts the other side to the 4 cylinder gauge so it shows correctly the 4,000 rpm. Keep in mind this is an example, it may not use volts, but increasing and decreasing pulses of electricity to control rpm. I'm not an automotive electrician guru. I just know the concept of how it works.

[kaking]

anyone have a spare w58 shifter? If you do PM me please.

thanks

[2muchboost]

By any chance....keeping fingers crossed....does anyone have a "Water Bypass Pipe and Hose " that comes off the back of the Water Pump and wraps around the back of the block to the opposite side of the 2J?

If so hit me up via text asap (631) 83Six-Five Nine27....Thanx

[Durty]

Are you running a power steering cooler?

[aled]

Anyone delete their JZ Idle Air Control Valve especially if you are one an EMS?

[RaNMaN]

Originally Posted by Durty

Are you running a power steering cooler?

why would you want to do that? are you going to be racing the car around a track?

Originally Posted by aled

Anyone delete their JZ Idle Air Control Valve especially if you are one an EMS?

no, in fact i just got mine working not too long ago with my haltech ps2000. i love it, i can set it to be whereever i want it to be. it starts closing when it gets up around -5 vac and closes completely by 0 vac.

if you really want to close it just unplug it and use a rubber plug and clamp over the big end that opens to let air in.

[RaNMaN]

i'm going from a r154 to a v160 and i had the speedometer working perfectly with the r154 using a 3.69 final drive, those two go together well! i'm wondering how to wire up and correct the speedometer now.

the r154 was a 2 wire speed sensor and the v160 is a 3 wire unit.

i'm considering just getting a gps speedometer unit to operate my gauge so that i can change out final drive gears with no impact to the gauge.

if anybody has any real knowledge on this please let me know, i don't want to just go off of hearsay, thanks.

[Mr. Phonso]

Originally Posted by RaNMaN

i'm going from a r154 to a v160 and i had the speedometer working perfectly with the r154 using a 3.69 final drive, those two go together well! i'm wondering how to wire up and correct the speedometer now.

You didn't need a Dakota speedo box with that combo? If so that is interesting, I wonder how close it will be with a 4.08 final.

[RaNMaN]

Originally Posted by Mr. Phonso

You didn't need a Dakota speedo box with that combo? If so that is interesting, I wonder how close it will be with a 4.08 final.

mine read about 10% too high with the stock 4.08 final drive. i just went in the garage and looked at my sensor and it does not look like the stock r154 sensor in the pics that i am finding online. i'll try to pop it out and find out exactly what i've got.

but yes with this speed sensor and a 3.69 final drive i wired it directly into the 2 speed sensor wires going into the gauges and it read perfectly, i paced several different cars at different speeds just to verify and it was always right.

i used a 3.69 r & p out of a q45 differential. i had my helical differential holes opened up to 13mm then set it all up with new bearings and it worked awesome with the r154. i'm expecting to need to change it out again using the v160, i might try to put the 3.13 from the pathfinder r200 in there or the entire 3.3 pumpkin from a 350z but i have a lot of other shit to do before i get around to that.

[RaNMaN]

lol, awesome, it's an r154 bottom half with a s14 top half ghetto rigged together with what looks like a portion of heater hose. lol, i'm not making this shit up.

turbo dave did it, he is a great fabricator but he does some pretty shitty ghetto wiring.

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I'm looking into a 2JZGE or 2JZGTE to drop into my 240sx. Where is the best place/website to find one (besides the junkyard, not really the best place but it works kinda)? Any help will be appreciated.

[Mr. Phonso]

Originally Posted by RaNMaN

lol, awesome, it's an r154 bottom half with a s14 top half ghetto rigged together with what looks like a portion of heater hose. lol, i'm not making this shit up.

turbo dave did it, he is a great fabricator but he does some pretty shitty ghetto wiring.

wtf lol. Are you saying the gear part is of the r154 sensor mated to the top half of a s14 sensor? That is awesome but at the same time saddening as I will still need a dakota box converter

[BoostedVR4]

All of the GPS based speed senders I've seen are $200. (dakota, autometer, etc..)

Then there's this: JEGS Performance Products 41612 JEGS New Digital Gauge Panels

I swear I read somewhere our speedo accepts 16000ppm?

[2muchboost]

Never mind figured something out...thanx everyone.

FYI..., Dakota Box use here

[afracer]

You cannot get rid of the IACV on a stock ECU, and if you have a 1JZ you cannot buy a new one if your old one dies. When they die the car will run very odd. I had one that started going bad over a long period of time without knowing what it was. The AFRs started going lean just off idle and the car would be difficult to start sometimes. When it really started going the idle would go high/low/high/low and would sometimes buck around and backfire through the intake. When it quit completely the car would not start. Easy enough to check following the FSM. If you have a 1JZ, you CAN build a small adapter plate to use the 2JZ-GTE IACV/ISCV. I had to do that on my 1.5JZ Cressida, but it works just fine now!

[cchondro]

Originally Posted by afracer

You cannot get rid of the IACV on a stock ECU, and if you have a 1JZ you cannot buy a new one if your old one dies. When they die the car will run very odd. I had one that started going bad over a long period of time without knowing what it was. The AFRs started going lean just off idle and the car would be difficult to start sometimes. When it really started going the idle would go high/low/high/low and would sometimes buck around and backfire through the intake. When it quit completely the car would not start. Easy enough to check following the FSM. If you have a 1JZ, you CAN build a small adapter plate to use the 2JZ-GTE IACV/ISCV. I had to do that on my 1.5JZ Cressida, but it works just fine now!

Or you can buy the IACV internals from Toyota and re build it like I did