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Old 05-11-2011, 12:50 PM   #1
Flicktitty
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2JZGTE Swapped S-Chassis thread

i started putting this together to help some people, now i figure i will release it to EVERYONE. i know it's not complete, but there is alot of good information here. and i know there is other ways to do this swap, but this is what worked for me. I would appreciate ANY and ALL feedback on this. Also to you fellow JZ swappers if you have any helpful hints/tips/tricks or other ideas please post them and i can incorporate them into the original post.

Mods is there chance this could get stickied in order to cut down on some of the questions people ask about the JZ swapped 24sx's?

Also - I will be adding and editing more info and pictures and helpful links to this thread as i get more free time.
-----------------------------------------------------------


So i decided i would put this together to help current and future 2JZGTE swapping 240sx people out at least a little bit. There already is a lot of information on doing this swap, but it is spread all across the Internet, so i though i would put together a thread where most if not all the information is here at your finger tips. Here you will find parts, pictures and random information that i think could be helpful, if you have something you feel should be added to this, just respond in this thread or PM me or you can email me at [email protected]


Section 1: Getting to know the 2JZ-GTE

First, i urge you to take a look at the Toyota JZ Engine Wikipedia page to familiarize yourself with the 2JZGTE. View the wikipedia page here: Toyota JZ engine - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Now what 2JZGTE should i put in my car you ask? Well the choice for 95% of us is the JDM 2JZGTE, as it is much more accesable and cheaper then finding a 2JZ out of a crashed MKIV Toyota Supra. What is the differance you ask? well look no further.

JDM Vs USDM 2JZGTE
- Different turbochargers
(stainless steel for USDM models CT12A, ceramic for JDM models CT20)
- Camshafts
- Larger injectors (550 cc/min slow impedance, requires resistor pack for USDM model, 440 cc/min high impedance for JDM models )
- The USDM 2JZ has a EGR where as the JDM one does not. (JDM head can be drilled out and is already tapped for bolts!)
- The USDM 2JZ runs off afm/maf + map, where as the JDM one is map based, no afm
- The USDM Waterpump with back half need to replace the JDM water pump and housing.

Section 2: What you are going to need
You will need alot of things to get a 2JZGTE in and running in a 240sx, below you will find a complete list of what you will need to get your car on the road.

- 2JZGTE pullout (Motor/trans/wiring/accessories) *Check Section 3 for more information*

- Custom engine swap kit mounts. *Check Section 4 for swap kit information*

- Wiring kit (weather you pay for it or do it on your own) *Check Section 5 for more information*

- OEM Toyota supra parts, included is a water pump (if you are using a JDM 2JZ as the water pump is different and has extra port for coolant that will not work.), thermostat, it would be a good time to change the timing belt and the serpentine belt, if you have a few extra bucks not a bad idea to get a new oil pump. Wouldn’t be a bad idea to replace the belt tensioners either (timing and serpentine)

JDM Waterpump that won't work:


USDM Waterpump that WILL work:



- Intercooler. You could use a factory sidemount intcooler or upgrade to a front mount. I used a Godspeed front mount intercooler fitted for a Nissan 240sx S13. and then bought CXRacing intercooler piping for a JZA80 (MKIV) Supra and make it work, and it works very well for both single turbo and twin turbo applications.

- Downpipe. This depends greatly on what you do. if you go with a single turbo, most off the shelf down pipes will work (I used the CXRacing 3” V-band downpipe off ebay).
(Pic of said CXRacing downpipe)

If you are using the JDM factory twin turbos you will need to source a jdm downpipe which used to be hard to find, but you can find them on ebay now. Just search “JZA80 front pipe, 1st pipe or decat. and it will show up. here is a picture of what you will need.
(Pic of said jdm downpipe)

If you are using the USDM Twin turbos you can use pretty much any off the shelf JZA80 (MKIV) downpipe. i used the Tanabe with great fitment.The supraforums guy's all say the best off the shelf downpipe for a factory USDM twinturbo's is the RMM downpipe, which has since been discontinued so you will have to find one used.
(Pick of said RMM downpipe)

I Suggest getting some heat wrap and wrap your downpipe for added piece of mind do to the extreme under hood temps the 2JZ creates in a 240sx.


- Exhaust. This is where you can have some fun, you can use ANY off the shelf Nissan S-chassis exhaust you so choose to use, but you will need to either take a trip to an exhaust shop, or make your own cross over pipe from the downpipe to the factory cat-back exhaust.

- Fuel pump. the “easiest” option for most people is to go with a single Walbro 255 fuel pumps, you can find them all day long well under $100. You could go with a more custom setup using a factory Toyota supra twin turbo Denso pump or a Bosch pump. here is some good information on fuel pumps. You could even go with a large external or a custom internal setup, all depends on your needs and your budget.
http://www.ka-t.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=51201

- Radiator. I have seen some pictures of people using the factory 240sx radiators with a 2JZ swap, and i have NO IDEA how or IF they are keeping them cool. I ran a CXRacing aluminum radiator for a year and had a ton of cooling issues. so i upgraded to a Koyo Aluminum radiator and a custom oil cooler setup since then the car has ran A LOT cooler, so invest in a QUALITY radiator and i would look into doing a oil cooler as well (More oil cooler info in the Section 6 Bolt on and modification section) You can either use a Ka24de radiator, and cut a few inches off of the upper water neck on your 2JZ and get a custom radiator hose from Napa. and you can use a factory Supra Twin Turbo lower radiator hose for the lower. Or you can use a SR20DET radiator, and you can use factory upper and lower Supra TT radiator hoses. but the upper will be a little short. you can also modify your upper radiator neck and move it over a few inches to use a factory upper hose.

- Electric fans - get the slimmest dual 12” fans you can find, cause fitment is crucial. i have ran “ebay style” dual 12” fans on a switch and they seem to have worked fine!

- Dakota Digital stuff. You will need a speedo and tach interface to allow you to use your factory 240sx gauges with your new 2JZ-GTE. You will also need a magnetic pick up coil to get your rpm off your R154 or V160 (if you run a automatic you do no need this) Speedometer & Tachometer Interfaces

- Pulley kit. You will need a new Waterpump pulley, you can either get a OEM toyota one or you can get a Greddy pulley kit which usually runs $300 + or you can get a ebay aluminum pulley kit which can be had for right around $100. This is do to the jdm waterpump not having a matching pulley that will work on a USDM waterpump.

- Heater hoses. Well let me start off by saying MOST of the off the shelf kits make having heat on a factory twin turbo 2JZ S13 near impossible as one of the heater core fittings on the firewall pretty much touches the rear turbo housing. so during the time i ran the factory USDM twin turbos i had no heat, which sucks. Once i went single turbo i was able to get heat, so i just got some heater hose from Napa and hooked it up, pretty straight forward. i would suggest getting some self adhesive heat wrap for the heater hoses for how close it is to the turbo / downpipe.

- Sway bar spacers or differant front sway bar. do to the fitment of the 2JZ oil pan the factory sway bar will NOT fit. you can either get a spacer made to lower the sway bar the 1 ½” - 2” you need. or you can get a SIKKY front sway bar. they make a sway bar to clear LSX swapped 240sx’s and these WILL clear your 2JZ.

- Gauges. One of thee most important things you can get when doing a swap. i recommend getting the following gauges. Water temp gauge -VERY important as 2JZ 240sx’s run very hot.
Oil tempeture and Oil pressure is also high on that list. if you want to do a nice way of doing the oil pressure you can use the IS300 bolt trick, found here (http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/oil_sensor_mod/index.html) To do a oil temp you could get a sandwhich adapter with a port for a gauge. the adapter size you will need for a 2JZ is (3/4 unf -16) You should odviously also get a boost gauge, as well as it would be smart to get a Wideband o2.

- Battery relocation and battery. face it your Ka battery wont keep up with the 2JZ invest in a little bigger one, you will need to relocate your battery to the trunk, unless you try and use one of the ½ sized batteries that are on the market.

- Fuel line. You will need to get a few feet of fuel line, as the KA24/SR/RB/etc all have the fuel rail on the right side, and the 2JZ is on the left you will need to make your lines go to the other side of the engine bay, not a big deal, here is one way you can do it. Also as a side note, i happened to use a Z32 Fuel filter as well worked fine.



- Power steering lines
I used the factory 240sx hi pressure line (it was leaking when it was a KA24DE) Then i replaced it with a Stainless steel ISIS power steering line. I plan on swapping this out again later this year in favor of a custom power steering line i will be making with all black lines and fittings and i will then market it to the 2JZ-S-Chassis community. Though the ISIS line does work awesome.








- Don’t forget little things, Coolant (Toyota recommends using TOYOTA RED coolant USE IT!) ATF fluid for your power steering (Toyota recommends using ATF for your power steering pump)

Section 3: Where to find your 2JZ-GTE

There are many online places that claim they can get you 2JZGTE’s some i have seen have been junk, i got mine from FNFmotors.ca in Canada and it came i pretty good shape, there was NO IGNITOR, so i had to source one, not all places include one. also they sent me a 2JZGE (non turbo ecu) so be sure to check what you get. i would encourage alot of you guy’s to check out Robert @ Zerolift autofab as he has great prices and everything i have heard is top notch. plus he is in the United states where most places are in Canada. if you have gotten a SR20/RB/B16/Etc swaps in the past, check out where you got your previous motor they should be able to source you one.

you can check Ebay.com once in a while you can find a complete USDM motor/trans/etc.

You can also keep an eye out on ClubLexus.com as well as Supraforums.com for people who are parting out cars and what. Don’t forget you can still get a 2JZGTE straight from Toyota still to this day!

DO NOT FORGET, YOU NEED A FRONT SUMPED JZ to fit PROPERLY into a 240sx.


Section 4: Swap kits
There are a few companies out there that offer swap kits and they range anywhere from just $300 all the way up to $1,500. here are a few of the mount kits.

Who: Tech2 Motorsports
Cost: $1,550 and a $200.00 Core charge for your stock cross member.
Whats included: Modified stock cross member, Transmission mount, Drive shaft for R154, shifter extension, and the Tech2 2JZ swap DVD.

I personally run this kit, so i will go a little more in depth with this kit. The kit uses your factory 240sx cross member and basically cut part of it off, and welds on a flat piece that allows you to use the factory Toyota Aristo (JDM 2JZGTE) mounts. The driveshaft seems to be a high quality piece as well, although i did have some errors with it at first which made me send it back to get redone then sent back to me and i still needed to buy an extra piece (this was to run the A340e automatic)

Good:
- Fitment works, and no real guessing games as some of the hard stuff has been done for you.
- Stock OE look, which is nice.

Bad:
- Price, it is way more expensive then it should be. for someone to just modify your stock cross member which looks like it doesn't take more then an hour, and it just uses stock Aristo 2JZGTE mounts.
- Modifies your stock cross member, which as far as i knows will not allow you to compete in some drifting organizations.

Here is a pic when i got mine.


You can also buy Aristo/Soarer/SC/etc motor mounts and modify your crossmember to look like the TECH2 Kit.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flicktitty View Post
This is what a modified crossmember will look like.

just for referance too, when i got the Tech2 kit this is how it came.

note the crossmemeber modification vs. the stock crossmember below.

------------------------------------------------------------------

Who: MyJZswap.com
Cost:$475 - $1350
Whats included: Unlike most swap places, MyJZswap allows you to pick and choose what you want and what you don’t want. which for most people will be extremely helpful, also it allows you to buy parts as you have the cash instead of having to have all the money right away up front, if you’re one of those people who don’t like credit cards.

They offer a “basic” kit for $475 that is just the custom mounts that you will need to make your 2JZGTE fit in a 240sx.
They also offer a “full” kit for $1350 which includes the custom engine and transmission mounts, shifter extension as well as the drive shaft in either aluminum or steel (Aluminum add $125)

This kit is legal for use in racing classes that allow engine swaps. It does not modify the fire wall or the cross member. This is a truly bolt on kit! I’ve had no first had experience with them so i can’t say anything good or bad, hopefully someone will chime in, But i have had alot of experiance with Sean and Rodney the founders of MyJZswap.com and if i ever was to go through with this swap again THIS IS THE KIT I WOULD USE.

pic from their site:


--------------------------------------------------------------------
Who: Zerolift / Ruckus racing mounts.
Cost: $350
Whats included: Custom engine mounts that use stock cross member and a custom transmission mount.

Zerolift bought the rights to the old “ruckus racing” motor mounts. so they are the same mounts just under a new name. I’ve had no first had experience with them so i can’t say anything good or bad, hopefully someone will chime in.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Syncade View Post
Update the Ruckus Racing/Zerolift Mounts to "Terrible - Stay away"
I bent mine before the car was even driven hard. Zerolift offers no help or signs of caring.
Just an FYI for fellow members!

pic from their site:

-------------------------------------------------------------------

Who: DM-spec.com
Cost $200 - $500
Whats included: they offer a few ranges of mounting kits, for $200 they will give you the custom metal mounts and you can use your existing KA24 or SR20 rubber mounts, add $220 if you want Nismo motor mounts or add $170 if you would rather have the Megan motor mount. Also add $78 if you want a new R154 Toyota bushing.

I’ve had no first had experience with them so i can’t say anything good or bad, hopefully someone will chime in.

*AS of 5/11/11 there site seems to have an error and i cannot access it.

-------------------------------------------------------------------

Freed Engineering
www.freedengineering.com

he engine as low and far back as possible, even fits with the GE intake manifold (only tested in the S14 so far). Designed, cut and welded here in our shop.
We don't have much info on the site, must call to order for now but we are working on getting the web store up and running

mounts $500 (R154 or V160)
driveshaft $450 (R154 or V160)
wiring service $500
shifter extension $250 + core

this car has one of the first few sets I sold: ~ESSENCE~ S14 1jz build

-------------------------------------------------------------------


- TheTurboDave also makes a mount kit
These mounts allow the use of any 2JZGTE/2JZGE/1JZGTE engine with ANY TOYOTA TRANSMISSION COMBO. Whether you have the W58,R154, 6Speed, or Automatic our rear crossmember mount is adjustable to fit any combination. NO CHASSIS MODIFICATION . You will retain all of your factory suspension geometry, crossmember, and rack an pinion. It truly is a bolt in swap now These mounts have been used in all or JZ swaps since late 2005.

$360 for the steel mounts and $800 for the Aluminum mount kit.

-------------------------------------------------------------------



- KS Racing also makes a mount kit as well for roughly $200 you can find them on ebay, they are from Thailand though... so shipping costs and time will be longer then the us suppliers.

- There is also a few “ebay” swap kits that range from $160 - $200. they are your typical metal mount and rubber bushing design. not much information availible.

Section 5: Wiring

Arguably one of thee hardest things to concur while doing a 2JZ/1JZ in a 240sx. And still to this day hard facts and solid diagrams and layouts are pretty much non existent....unless you are willing to pay for that information.

There are pretty much two way’s you can wire up your 2JZ/1JZ 240sx. The first one, and the most simple is PAY someone else to do it for you.That is what i did and let me tell you something it was the best choice for me, as i have little to no wiring skills. I sent my harness out to Sean Palmquist (Owner of myjzswap.com) While he was still at Tech2motorsports, he has since left there and started MyJZswap.com. Tech2 still offers a harness service, but i haven’t heard much good or bad or much of anything from Tech2 since Sean left. There are other members of Various forums who claim they can do it for a small fee as well. One of them Dave “Z U L8R” On Zilvia.net says he will do them for a fee. I have seen talks of the guys over at Chasebays.com wanting to do a wiring harness for a JZ powered 240sx, so you could consider looking into them as well. KS racing from Thailand also makes claims of offering a wiring service. There is also Pheonixtuning AKA “Dr. Tweek”. Who has had many mixed reviews and i have heard of many of his customers needing to send there harness out to other people to get fixed. TurboDave also does a wiring service for between $350 and $750 price depends on if you have a core or not. You can expect to pay anywhere from $400 on up to $800 to get your wiring done depending on who and what you need done to the harness. Like stated i used [email protected] and will continue to go back to him for any and all of my wiring needs, He has gone above and beyond to help get my car and countless other customer cars out on the road.

The Second option is learn how to do it yourself, download the Aristo/Supra wiring schematics and the 240sx of your ownership and get to work, good luck. As i have never done this i do not have much information on this current stage, so i will try and update this with any and all wiring information i find from this point on.

some of my .02 on the wiring subject: I've read many threads with people banging there head against the wall and i have gotten countless pm's and emails and messages though youtube,zilvia,nico,supraforums,etc. about how the wiring was done and how people can't get pthere car to start or stay running. I know of a few people who "did the wiring them selves to save money" and they couldn't figure it out, so they took the car to shops to have them do it, where they had to pay labor rate AND for all the new parts that a shop will say is "bad" and should be replaced, or have just decided after spending countless hours trying to do it themselves that they should send it out to a professional. Really makes the $400-800 price for a harness service seem like a good value.

UPDATE (7/20/11) 2JZ-GE Wiring information: http://zilvia.net/f/engine-tech/390883-2jz-wiring.html

Section 6: Bolt on’s and modifications

This is where the fun stuff happens. this is all about doing what you want. You could go mild to WILD.

keep in mind these cars run warm so i would strongly recommend a oil cooler. if you don’t want to purchase an off the shelf one or custom make one yourself feel free to email me [[email protected]], cause i am offering a full oil cooler setup for a 2JZ-S1 using a high quality cooler quality lines as well as fittings and sandwich adapter. You can however order a Greddy/Trust/HKS kit but those are about $500+
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Old 05-11-2011, 01:09 PM   #2
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Fantastic information!

Also another wiring option, is to hit up Jeff of Jordan Innovations, he always does really good work and quoted me at a great price for a 1jz into s13.
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Old 05-11-2011, 01:16 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h815 240sx View Post
Fantastic information!

Also another wiring option, is to hit up Jeff of Jordan Innovations, he always does really good work and quoted me at a great price for a 1jz into s13.
Good stuff, i know he does a ton of LSX stuff, i didn't realize he was doing JZ swap wiring as well i'll see if he chimes in. thanks.
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Old 05-13-2011, 11:36 AM   #4
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Do you have any pictures of the exhaust crossover for using a aftermarket exhaust instead of making a custom one as seen below?





Also do you have any info on the new power steering lines you need to run? or can you use stainless sr/ka high or low?
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Old 05-13-2011, 11:53 AM   #5
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i will have to get some pics of the exhaust once it is back on the car, or maybe i can take the picture of the exhaust off the car tonight. I just had a fabrication shop make a 3" pipe from the Megan OE Type II catback to the CXracing 3" downpipe.

Power steering lines - I used the factory 240sx hi pressure line (it was leaking when it was a KA24DE) Then i replaced it with a Stainless steel ISIS power steering line. I plan on swapping this out again later this year in favor of a custom power steering line i will be making with all black lines and fittings and i will then market it to the 2JZ-S-Chassis community. Though the ISIS line does work awesome.






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Old 05-16-2011, 05:00 PM   #6
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Thumbs up

Taylor Durdan at durdan prefab,does excellent harnesses.He did my sr harness and it is flawless.He also took the time relocate the ignitor in to the cabin of the vehicle.Very reasonable pricing and said he can swap any motor into a 240sx.Hit him up,great guy and easy to talk to.
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Old 05-16-2011, 05:35 PM   #7
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what a wealth of info!
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Old 05-23-2011, 10:07 AM   #8
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abundant amount of info. GREAT WRITE UP BROTHA!
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Old 05-23-2011, 10:37 AM   #9
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awesome information man. Wish this much would have been readily available when I started doing my swap a while back.
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Old 05-23-2011, 10:41 AM   #10
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Another bit of useful information that alot of GTE guys will do, is that they will switch to the NA waterpipe off the back of the waterpump in order to clean up some of the non used pipes that are on the GTE waterline.
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Old 05-23-2011, 06:02 PM   #11
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fuck yes! This is what I need!!! This is the only part of my 2jz swap I have at the moment.. Haltech 2000 with fully terminated 2jz harness..



Now I'm just looking to run across a good deal on a v160 trans or 6-speed front clip..
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Old 05-23-2011, 06:23 PM   #12
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I couldn't tell by your pictures, but is there enough room to run fans?
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Old 05-24-2011, 04:24 PM   #13
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I couldn't tell by your pictures, but is there enough room to run fans?
Look closer... You can see twin FAL's in there.
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Old 05-24-2011, 04:32 PM   #14
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+1, plethora of info there
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Old 05-25-2011, 05:15 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 310R View Post
Taylor Durdan at durdan prefab,does excellent harnesses.He did my sr harness and it is flawless.He also took the time relocate the ignitor in to the cabin of the vehicle.Very reasonable pricing and said he can swap any motor into a 240sx.Hit him up,great guy and easy to talk to.
Awesome always good to have more wiring people. do you know if he has done a JZ/S-chassis car yet?

Quote:
Originally Posted by camaro379ss View Post
what a wealth of info!
Thank you!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nismo JLo View Post
abundant amount of info. GREAT WRITE UP BROTHA!
They BRAH.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mwilloughby87 View Post
awesome information man. Wish this much would have been readily available when I started doing my swap a while back.
Thanks, i have to agree. back in 06-07 when i was gathering some info on the swap there wasn't much GOOD info on it. then when i started it in 07-08 there still wasn't alot of help. Even to this day alot of shops/companies but no real HELP without forking out some money. and the people that have done the swap seem to be quiet.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mwilloughby87 View Post
Another bit of useful information that alot of GTE guys will do, is that they will switch to the NA waterpipe off the back of the waterpump in order to clean up some of the non used pipes that are on the GTE waterline.
Good thought as well, i can't say i've seen ALOT of people do this but some do yes.

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Originally Posted by R33E8 View Post
fuck yes! This is what I need!!! This is the only part of my 2jz swap I have at the moment.. Haltech 2000 with fully terminated 2jz harness..



Now I'm just looking to run across a good deal on a v160 trans or 6-speed front clip..
Awesome, that car with a 6spd will be awesome!

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Originally Posted by h815 240sx View Post
I couldn't tell by your pictures, but is there enough room to run fans?
yes it is a VERY tight fit, make sure you get some SLIM fans. i got some of the "cheap" ones Tommy (ESone3) At ILL GARAGE had for sale, drop him a line see whats up. I'll see if i have some pics of the clearance.

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Look closer... You can see twin FAL's in there.
True that. They are not in fact FAL's on mine.
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Originally Posted by daryl337 View Post
+1, plethora of info there
Thanks guy's!
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Old 05-26-2011, 09:56 AM   #16
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You are definitely right man....not a whole lot of information out there at all. I posted some misc. stuff in my build thread, but the main site I post all of it too doesn't really care about technical stuff so I never got too in depth with it.

I was going to do a writeup on my dual in tank pump setup since I couldn't ever find a writeup on anyone else doing it with an s14, nor was I able to find a company that produced a hangar for it.

You might have previously mentioned it, but what did you end up going with?
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Old 05-26-2011, 09:39 PM   #17
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Dual fuel system (at the hanger) isn't done yet. have a few ideas should figure it out in the next week or two and show some pics.

if you have any dual intank pics please post them.
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Old 05-31-2011, 11:05 AM   #18
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Dual fuel system (at the hanger) isn't done yet. have a few ideas should figure it out in the next week or two and show some pics.

if you have any dual intank pics please post them.
Yeah, I've got some pics of mine I will post up today. I went from a writeup I found on supraforums, and just applied it here. Doesn't look the prettiest, but it works just fine.
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Old 05-31-2011, 11:11 AM   #19
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Took these pics this weekend when RE-building the coupe.

HEATER HOSES for the 2JZ-S13




The top hose consists of 2 90 degree heater hoses. with a coupler in the middle. pretty easy simple stuff.

the lower hose, i went to autozone and asked to look at there heater hose and grabbed one that looked like it could fit, i think i have the part number somewhere. but its pretty simple.

i also did some heat reflecting wrap over the heater hose since it is close to the motor and the downpipe once that is installed.

here are some more power steering for a 2JZ-S13 the stainless steel braided line is a out of the box ISIS line, i will be removing this in favor of a custom one later this year and i will be selling a copy of the one i built for myself if anyone is interested let me know. the other line is a factory DOHC hard line. and then a factory DOHC rubber line, as well as a 3/4" rubber hose from autozone to connect the pump to the resovoir.

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Old 05-31-2011, 03:57 PM   #20
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This is not an appropriate Build Thread.
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Originally Posted by Rules and Guidelines

Build threads:
Almost everyone enjoys building their cars and sharing that experience, as well as checking out others' builds for inspiration. Sadly, far too many users have a tendency to do half-hearted builds and either rarely update or update with trivial progress. In the interest of keeping the Chat forum clear of three hundred 'Install SR, ziptie aero, rattlecan paint' threads, incomplete, or in-progress build threads are not allowed. If you have completed your build, wrangle all those pictures into a post and tell us about it, but make sure the build is finalized. If you insist on having an in-progress build, Premium members have a specialized subforum for that specific purpose.




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Old 05-31-2011, 04:09 PM   #21
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This is not a build thread, it is an info thread!
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This is not an appropriate Build Thread.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rules and Guidelines

Build threads:
Almost everyone enjoys building their cars and sharing that experience, as well as checking out others' builds for inspiration. Sadly, far too many users have a tendency to do half-hearted builds and either rarely update or update with trivial progress. In the interest of keeping the Chat forum clear of three hundred 'Install SR, ziptie aero, rattlecan paint' threads, incomplete, or in-progress build threads are not allowed. If you have completed your build, wrangle all those pictures into a post and tell us about it, but make sure the build is finalized. If you insist on having an in-progress build, Premium members have a specialized subforum for that specific purpose.




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Old 05-31-2011, 06:47 PM   #22
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I haven't fully read all of this but I already have one remark. Get ridof the TCTB and either use an ebay TB or an oversized 1J one. That will help your Intake coupler clear the radiator better and produce better flow. Or just remove the TB and cut the TC stuff off and use a mildly longer coupling.
KA radiator is a must.
I had the same heat issues in my old coupe with a 1JZ and stock twins.
If ZeroLift hasnt changed their mount kit since I used it about a year ago, then highly advise aginst purchasing it. I had to custom knotch the mounts and some other jenky stuff to get fitment.
I would recommend either dual pusher fans or a V-mount setup(doing that on my next swap). And a low *C thermostat. Something like the TRD one or colder. Or just dont run one.
Also the problem I ran in to with Puller fans is that tyou have trouble finding a hight enough CFM in such a skinny fan. The lack of space between the fans and pulley's/timing cover cause a major air flow issue. Along with the variable of what front bumper you use, intercooler size and placement. I advise against using a stock front bumper(IMO). You risk overheating at low speeds.
Custom PS line works great, thats what I did. If I recall correctly mine was about 18 inches overall of braided stainless. And the return line off the resevoir will always leak on s13 if you've ever taken it off. Dgrease everything and try a little bit of black form-a-gasket or Toyota FIPG where it clamps on.

If I can think of anythng else that can help, I'll chime in. Otherwise It's good to see someone else sharin the knowledge.
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Old 06-02-2011, 10:15 AM   #23
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Hey OP,

Update the Ruckus Racing/Zerolift Mounts to "Terrible - Stay away"

I bent mine before the car was even driven hard. Zerolift offers no help or signs of caring.

Just an FYI for fellow members!
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Old 06-02-2011, 10:21 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Syncade View Post
Hey OP,

Update the Ruckus Racing/Zerolift Mounts to "Terrible - Stay away"

I bent mine before the car was even driven hard. Zerolift offers no help or signs of caring.

Just an FYI for fellow members!

WOW, that SUCKS! thank's for the heads up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GoToast View Post
I haven't fully read all of this but I already have one remark. Get rid of the TCTB and either use an ebay TB or an oversized 1J one. That will help your Intake coupler clear the radiator better and produce better flow. Or just remove the TB and cut the TC stuff off and use a mildly longer coupling.
KA radiator is a must.
I had the same heat issues in my old coupe with a 1JZ and stock twins.
If ZeroLift hasn't changed their mount kit since I used it about a year ago, then highly advise aginst purchasing it. I had to custom knotch the mounts and some other jenky stuff to get fitment.
I would recommend either dual pusher fans or a V-mount setup(doing that on my next swap). And a low *C thermostat. Something like the TRD one or colder. Or just don't run one.
Also the problem I ran in to with Puller fans is that tyou have trouble finding a hight enough CFM in such a skinny fan. The lack of space between the fans and pulley's/timing cover cause a major air flow issue. Along with the variable of what front bumper you use, intercooler size and placement. I advise against using a stock front bumper(IMO). You risk overheating at low speeds.
Custom PS line works great, that's what I did. If I recall correctly mine was about 18 inches overall of braided stainless. And the return line off the reservoir will always leak on s13 if you've ever taken it off. Degrease everything and try a little bit of black form-a-gasket or Toyota FIPG where it clamps on.

If I can think of anything else that can help, I'll chime in. Otherwise It's good to see someone else sharin the knowledge.
Thanks for the added info. i will try and add some of this into the first post. If not, everyone can see it when they keep reading it.

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Thanks for wasteing space in this thread. if you want to see MY BUILD thread go here: http://zilvia.net/f/chat/223490-2jz-...ect-300sx.html
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Old 06-03-2011, 11:55 PM   #25
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Such a great info.! I am in the process of swapping in a 1jz vvti. The heater hoses cleared some confusion and so does the p/s line.

How do you go about using the JZ a/c compressor? I mean what kind of fittings do I need to use it? I don't think the stock s14 compressor fittings will work.

I will try and contact Taylor Durdan and see if he could do my wiring since everyone else is so busy like, Sean Palmquist and Z U l8er. Those are the only 2 guys I would send my harness to from what I read on other forums. Worst case is sending it to Tech2 or Phoenix Tuning. Drifts135, a member here, also knows how to wire a 1jzvvti into an s14 since he's done one for his buddy and he told me he could help me out. Tried contacting him but no reply.
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Old 06-04-2011, 01:55 PM   #26
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Very informative thread. I'll add some of my build tid-bits.

There's a thread on KA-T.org about the Bosch 044 modified to fit into the S14 Fuel tank.

Here: www.ka-t.org :: View topic - HOW TO: INSTALL BOSCH 044 in S14

I opted to re-route the fuel lines to the driver side frame rail. I was concerned about heating fuel and other dangers with turbocharger proximity. Converting to the opposite was very costly, but I think it's worth it.


In-line Walbro 255 paired with the in-tank Walbro 255.
All -6 AN line and fittings.


Use of an aftermarket fuel rail.
Posed a few issues. Since I upgraded the fuel injectors, I opted for a new rail. The feed fitting, pictured here, is an extremely tight fit. Fitting is a -8 Male into the Rail, to a 90 Degree -6 Male. This was the 4th setup I tried, and has not leaked yet.


Samco Kit, MKIII Supra was a perfect fit.
Radiator: Griffin 2 Core for the KA24DE.


Upper waterneck was modified.


Here's a good idea of the underchassis. Sikky sway bar fits excellent with the oil pan, absolutely ZERO clearance issues.


Parts for the oil cooler setup (not installed yet)
I'd be more than happy to elaborate for anyone interested.


Oh, here's the exhaust setup. The front section is oval for clearance, then converts to round tubing after the transmission mount.


Intercooler piping still under construction.

I'd like to see everyone's input on a throttle cable. Tech2Motorsports sells a bracket that utilizes the factory S-Chassis cable, which on the drivers side, the cable is super long.
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Old 06-05-2011, 08:54 PM   #27
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For the throttle cable, I used a factory 93tt supra throttle cable and modified it to fit.
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Old 06-05-2011, 11:28 PM   #28
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u can modify the stock ka cable bracket, i'll get a pic tomorrow
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Old 06-06-2011, 07:52 PM   #29
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u can modify the stock ka cable bracket, i'll get a pic tomorrow
please do.
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Old 06-07-2011, 08:59 PM   #30
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interested in oil cooler set up too
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