Power Steering+AN Lines + Cooler=Good times!

[Beejis60]

Originally Posted by NismoPlsr

For anyone having sealing problems with the high pressure rack fitting the issues seems to be with the Earls adapter fittings being too short and the o-ring not seating in the rack. A couple other companies sell longer fittings.



Details in this thread.
http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/201523...s-leaking.html

I'll bump this thread with my info...
I just contacted both All Star and Flaming River. Both are too short to reach the bottom of the rack on the high pressure side. All Star is .740" and the Flaming River fitting is .840". OEM is .969".

[Danial]

Originally Posted by Beejis60

I'll bump this thread with my info...
I just contacted both All Star and Flaming River. Both are too short to reach the bottom of the rack on the high pressure side. All Star is .740" and the Flaming River fitting is .840". OEM is .969".

This seems to suggest to me that maybe this modification should be altered to have this fitting welded in place? Or that the Earls fitting be welded to the screw in end of the OEM? Obviously you would need to be very for the latter of the two to line them up correctly before you TIG

Are both the rack and fitting steel?

[Beejis60]

Originally Posted by Danial

This seems to suggest to me that maybe this modification should be altered to have this fitting welded in place? Or that the Earls fitting be welded to the screw in end of the OEM? Obviously you would need to be very for the latter of the two to line them up correctly before you TIG

Are both the rack and fitting steel?

Well, my measurement of the OEM fitting was from the seat to the hex head; after threading in my OEM fitting again last night to measure the total thread depth and not total fitting length, it appears to be just around .800 to .820 on the high pressure side. One MAY be able to use the Flaming River fitting if they ran a die over it to thread all the way up to the hex head.
As for weld-ons, Earls has alum, steel, and stainless; OEM box is steel. Additionally, the steel weld-on bung is only $4. I would weld it in a glove bag back-purged with argon though, just in case.

[Danial]

^^ Excellent info, +1

if someone tries it please post up your results, i'd love to see it

[Mr.J]

Originally Posted by Danial

This seems to suggest to me that maybe this modification should be altered to have this fitting welded in place? Or that the Earls fitting be welded to the screw in end of the OEM? Obviously you would need to be very for the latter of the two to line them up correctly before you TIG

Are both the rack and fitting steel?

What about just removing a little material from the top of the rack house so that the AN fitting seal properly?

[Beejis60]

Originally Posted by Mr.J

What about just removing a little material from the top of the rack house so that the AN fitting seal properly?

Though there is certainly nothing wrong with this approach, it is easier said than done. To remove it to be 100% flush, or even close to that, you will need to set it in a vise, whether for machining or for hand-grinding; and there is no good surface to clamp to for using a mill. You may be able to clamp on to the outlet/inlet ports that feed to the crossover, but then, you will need to remove material by hand since it will be out of tram with the mill.

[Mr.J]

Good point. I may try using some sealant in the interim just to get my car operational.

I saw this on another thread last night when I was researching the fittings.

Originally Posted by Georgiy Stepanyan

Steering rack, fittings for power steering

[onehundredoctane]

^Need more info on those, my twin wastegate dump tubes barely clear the area for the fittings that go into the rack. These fittings would work GREAT for me!

[Mr.J]

Originally Posted by onehundredoctane

^Need more info on those, my twin wastegate dump tubes barely clear the area for the fittings that go into the rack. These fittings would work GREAT for me!

Unfortunately, there was no info given on these fittings in the post. Maybe you could reach out to the OP for more info.

[Beejis60]

Originally Posted by Mr.J

Good point. I may try using some sealant in the interim just to get my car operational.

I saw this on another thread last night when I was researching the fittings.

Looks like they milled the face off quite a bit, likely to get that banjo to work. I've never seen a very long banjo bolt to fit this application, though I did not really look too closely. I still see a copper crush washer, which I do not trust and banjos will never seat in the PS box properly. Moreover, I wouldn't trust to use thread dope or thread sealant since that's a banjo fitting.... Basically, your sealing comes from a crush washer. No thanks

[Beejis60]

I got in my Fueled Racing stuff the other day. All they do is buy the Fragola PS fittings and turn them on the lathe to knock down the hex head a bit. Installed, they don't even come close to the hex when fully tight. I feel pretty certain that these will not leak:

[ill.]

Those fittings look like they'll work well. That might be what I have to do haha.

What does everyone do for the high pressure pump outlet?

[Beejis60]

Originally Posted by ill.

Those fittings look like they'll work well. That might be what I have to do haha.

What does everyone do for the high pressure pump outlet?

That last pic is the high pressure outlet on my pump, just note that I have an LS2.

[nyc240sx]

if anyone needs a custom fitting an flange for the rb25 powersteering reservoir to feed on pump i can have that fitting made for you $45 shipped. Its a flange with a -10an fitting machined

[ov1989]

subscribe.

[NismoPlsr]

Originally Posted by nyc240sx

if anyone needs a custom fitting an flange for the rb25 powersteering reservoir to feed on pump i can have that fitting made for you $45 shipped. Its a flange with a -10an fitting machined

Any pictures of this? I am interested.

[2iv0 sx]

Seems like bc. made his own lines retaining the stock fittings..

Originally Posted by bc.

Got my line done. It deletes any need for a banjo fitting.


This was the original banjo stud that came out of the pump. It was cut in half to remove the stock banjo connection but will retain all functionality of the pressure reducing assembly inside the pump.


Here is the side that goes into the rack. All 'welded' connections were actually done with silver solder.



Sorry the last pic is blurry, but you get the idea. The hardline was cut and soldered to a hose barb. The o-rings were also replaced.

[japslapsilvia]

Dam i forgot about this thread!!
for the rack side high-pressure fitting
i ended up having a custom fitting made out of brass for this, basically i copied the dimensions of the hard line on one end and a -6AN on the other, i will try to get pics when i get home.

[Seraphim38]

pirtek makes custom lines to specification for cheap, and they will never leak. My whole oil relocation and boost/vacuum lines were all made by pirtek. I only have one hose under the hood with a clamp on it (other than intercooler piping and radiator hoses).

[SupaDoopa]

I used a Nissan Titan setup for a while. Worked flawlessly and not too much modifications needed. I wish I saved some pictures somewhere. I may roll with this when I finish my next car, doe.

[japslapsilvia]

Its a little longer then it should be...but works flawlessly

[DET240SX]

Subscribed

[reeskm]

Damn epic stuff. I'm going to be pluming in a B&M supercooler (72005 model) for my p/s coolant. Not gonna run AN lines at the moment. I'm too lazy

But, this really helped me figure out how to run my cooler!

Anybody have any concerns that most aftermarket coolers and AN-6 lines are ~8.75 mm (3/8") and the Nissan uses metric lines? The low pressure return to resevoir nipple measures in a 9.75mm on my car, and it's a bit of a snug fit for a 3/8" ID hose.

[rbs14kouki]

Originally Posted by Beejis60

I got in my Fueled Racing stuff the other day. All they do is buy the Fragola PS fittings and turn them on the lathe to knock down the hex head a bit. Installed, they don't even come close to the hex when fully tight. I feel pretty certain that these will not leak:

Somebody as a link to where i could get those fueled racing fitingor the fragola and i would turn them on the lathe my self.

I Just cant find one long enough !?!?

[Beejis60]

They're just fragola PS fittings. Get the right sized metrics, I think M14 and M16. That's it.

[NismoPlsr]

Here are the Allstar part numbers.

Power Steering Adapter, Steel, Zinc Plated, -6 AN Male to 14mm x 1.50 Inverted Flare
ALL48211

Power Steering Adapter, Steel, Zinc Plated, -6 AN Male to 16mm x 1.50 Inverted Flare
ALL48210

After a few minutes on the lathe.

[Beejis60]

Nice. I know the allstar stuff was closer to OEM length than any other fitting.

[rbs14kouki]

Thanks alot NismoPlsr

[Trap Star]

Originally Posted by mad-ass

The problem of no "feel" in steering comes from no flow restriction. there is a way to adjust the amount of flow when you replace all the hardlines with this setup from the pump itself..but that involves in taking apart the pump itself.

Cool write up man!

Any links to what/how to adjust the flow with the pump? I have 1 or 2 extra power steering pumps lying around and would like to try it.

[Beejis60]

Originally Posted by Trap Star

Any links to what/how to adjust the flow with the pump? I have 1 or 2 extra power steering pumps lying around and would like to try it.

You can shim the pump or put in a flow restrictor.... The problem with restrictors is that they're a set amount and you have to hope they restrict flow just enough; if they're too big then you just wasted $30-50. Too small then you can at least bore it with a drill bit.
Or you can put in a variable pressure regulator but those run around $250 iirc.