This is the roll center, suspension pickup, and steering angle modification thread.

[dazed]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

I'd highly suggest the GKtech knuckles.

Yeah? Idk, I already have PBM everything including the RLCA. Those are $100 more than the PBM ones. I mean I realize there are some benefits to them that the PBM ones don't have, but for some reason I've just never really been crazy about their stuff I dunno why.

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by dazed

Yeah? Idk, I already have PBM everything including the RLCA. Those are $100 more than the PBM ones. I mean I realize there are some benefits to them that the PBM ones don't have, but for some reason I've just never really been crazy about their stuff I dunno why.

They're worth that easily IMO. Lighter, improved camber and toe curves, fixes the S14's anti-squat (important on really low cars), etc.

Also, not saying that PSM stuff doesn't work, because they've proven most of their stuff, but it's nice to know some actual engineering went into a part, and not just trial and error.

[dazed]

I see. Well you've given me some stuff to think about, appreciate it.

[nismo_bill]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

They're worth that easily IMO. Lighter, improved camber and toe curves, fixes the S14's anti-squat (important on really low cars), etc.

Also, not saying that PSM stuff doesn't work, because they've proven most of their stuff, but it's nice to know some actual engineering went into a part, and not just trial and error.

Trial and error is one of the most proven forms of engineering, Andy.

ESPECIALLY in motorsports.

[rbs14kouki]

Originally Posted by dazed

Thank you for the input.

I have an S14. Honestly, I think when you add it all up; Z32 uprights ($75-$100), SPL bearing kit ($329), Stance Z32 lower mounts ($100?), I'll probably be spending less in the end just getting the PBM drop knuckles ($400).

Might be overkill, I just want the geometry back to or close to normal.

I have a kit of spl pillow ball bearing that i can sale for 250$us shiped to you

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by nismo_bill

Trial and error is one of the most proven forms of engineering, Andy.

ESPECIALLY in motorsports.

Engineering includes some trial and error, but trial and error is not engineering.

You can't just build a bunch of prototypes and test them and call yourself an engineer. A scientist maybe, but not an engineer.

[LuckyX2]

People with the GKTech front knuckles, how the heck did you tighten the top nut on the shank? I can't get a ratchet in there.

[GKTECH]

Originally Posted by LuckyX2

People with the GKTech front knuckles, how the heck did you tighten the top nut on the shank? I can't get a ratchet in there.

Something like this:

[stuckonfresh]

.

Originally Posted by LuckyX2

People with the GKTech front knuckles, how the heck did you tighten the top nut on the shank? I can't get a ratchet in there.

From my build thread:

All the torque specs were listed on an assembly diagram from the manufacturer. The “shank” (as its called) had be installed on the knuckle first, to insure this tapered shank end seated tight in the knuckle, but I needed a way to prevent the shank from spinning while tightening it- it didn’t help that I greased the shank.

I looked for a nut at local hardware stores, but found nothing, so I just used some washers to ensure the locking part of the included lock nut wasn’t engaged, while at the same time ensuring there was enough thread to grip the shank:


The knuckles have a "sleeve" with a slanted top/roof", so I had to pick up a new socket that as short enough to maneuver past the slanted top piece and down into the "sleeve" (22mm about 1+1/16" height; Kobalt part# 338151); flexible extensions were needed for this as well. The top nut was also a nylon locking nut Shank install; luckily the top had more grip than the lower “washered nut” so it came off fairly easily :



FLCA installation:

[LuckyX2]

Ah, figured it required one of those socket joint things. I was just hoping not to use those since they give inaccurate torque, don't they? Maybe I'll just aim on the high side of the spec.

Thanks for the info guys.

[ka-titties]

Or use one of these:


It fits inside the slot with a socket on it.

[LuckyX2]

I was using one of those and it didn't fit. I guess the head on the one I have is larger. Need a torque wrench for the last few turns anyway.

[ka-titties]

The torque wrench isnt really necessary. Just muscle down on it... its not rocket surgery.

I posted this on my Facebook, but forgot to post here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IO6cCA1mzT0

[LuckyX2]

Yeah, I just really don't want a critical piece like that coming loose. I'll be running 315 Hoosiers up front, that's a lot of stress on the pieces when I'm pulling a 1.5G+ turn. Might even drill holes for cotter pins, just to be sure. Edit: not enough thread for a cotter, oh well.

Cool vid btw. Looks like it's keeping a pretty good contact patch.

One more question. How are you guys running the spacers for the tension arm portion of the FLCA? I'm looking for approximately 7-8* of caster, will spacing it evenly get me close?

[jaysgottaredtop]

Anyone have more info on these Megan balljoints?

http://www.enjukuracing.com/products...s14-95-98.html

The item description is a mile long. In fact, some of it was copypasta'd straight from the original post of this thread.

Yet they fail to mention the one single piece of information that anyone actually gives a fuck about: the extended height of the balljoint.




Follow up question: are these Megan balljoints as shitty as the Chinese joints on Megan tie rods? Or are they halfway decent?

[Akop]

I was considering buying the Gktech rear knuckles as well. Surprised that there arent any reviews on them yet.

[sr vegas 240]

They look very nice I like the fact that they dual caliper mounting holes no need to mess with splicing lines for Hydro ebrake

[ka-titties]

Originally Posted by Akop

I was considering buying the Gktech rear knuckles as well. Surprised that there arent any reviews on them yet.

I know someone personally that has them and he's very happy with the amount of grip he's getting over the stock knuckle. I've seen the tire wear on his rear tires and its very impressive. Very even across the tire.

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by jaysgottaredtop

Anyone have more info on these Megan balljoints?



http://www.enjukuracing.com/products...s14-95-98.html



The item description is a mile long. In fact, some of it was copypasta'd straight from the original post of this thread.



Yet they fail to mention the one single piece of information that anyone actually gives a fuck about: the extended height of the balljoint.









Follow up question: are these Megan balljoints as shitty as the Chinese joints on Megan tie rods? Or are they halfway decent?

You'll notice they put in my name at the bottom, but only because I called and told them that they had copied and pasted from my thread. The first person I talked to refused to believe me and asked "you do realize this is Megan Racing corporate?" LOL.

Megan's quality has come up quite a bit in recent years, but I don't think I'd buy from them personally. Plus the whole extended ball joint increases ackerman thing.

[LuckyX2]

Originally Posted by Akop

I was considering buying the Gktech rear knuckles as well. Surprised that there arent any reviews on them yet.

The top SCCA Street Modified autocrosser in the country uses and likes them. I'll be using them this season too, in competition with him.

[Jorgs_7]

Trouble here:

S14
OE knuckles
GKTech adjustable Front LCA (Currently set to +0mm extension)
Moog inner tie rods (for S14)
GKTech outters (high misalignment ones) (even using smallest shank they provided)
GKTech rack spacers (6mm one side, 13mm on other side)

on website says "may need to trim inner tie rod"

Ok, well, even If I trimmed the tie rod threads to bottom out the outter tie rod adjustment, I STILL have way too much toe in..

I don't think I'm overlooking anything. Thoughts here gentlemen?

Thanks

[PoorMans180SX]

Extend the lower arm.

[2_Liter_Turbo]

^^^ Either that or run Z33 inner tie rods. You only run S14 inners if you extend the FLCAs with aftermarket rod end style outers.

[jaysgottaredtop]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

Extend the lower arm.

This is the correct answer, or at least the correct first step.

Why would you buy $600 FLCAs just to leave them stock length?

[Jorgs_7]

Originally Posted by jaysgottaredtop

This is the correct answer, or at least the correct first step.

Why would you buy $600 FLCAs just to leave them stock length?

1) They were ≈ 400$

2) I started with OE length just for assembly. Car is on jack stands at the moment.

To add to logical reasons

3) 1 piece unit

4) enclosed PTFE lined sphericals

5) great adjustability, if necessary

6) roll center correction shank

7) car had blown OE ball joints and shot bushings

[LuckyX2]

Originally Posted by jaysgottaredtop

Why would you buy $600 FLCAs just to leave them stock length?

Autocross is a case where extra width can reduce performance.

[e1_griego]

^More for the back than the front. Obviously within reason, but 1-1.5" of widening the front isn't the end of the world.

[ka-titties]

Originally Posted by Jorgs_7

Trouble here:

S14
OE knuckles
GKTech adjustable Front LCA (Currently set to +0mm extension)
Moog inner tie rods (for S14)
GKTech outters (high misalignment ones) (even using smallest shank they provided)
GKTech rack spacers (6mm one side, 13mm on other side)

on website says "may need to trim inner tie rod"

Ok, well, even If I trimmed the tie rod threads to bottom out the outter tie rod adjustment, I STILL have way too much toe in..

I don't think I'm overlooking anything. Thoughts here gentlemen?

Thanks

Are your "OE" knuckles modified? If you have a stock amount of ackerman, you're never going to get all the toe in out.

[Jorgs_7]

Originally Posted by ka-titties

Are your "OE" knuckles modified? If you have a stock amount of ackerman, you're never going to get all the toe in out.

They are bone stock, unmodified 95' S14 knuckles.

[Bnr32gtr]

Az 240 what ruca you running now? I seen u sold the gk. I just installed mine no way will they work I raised the rear over 1" and the gk ruca bent type are still laying on axle boot. Also have sub frame risers and gk tech rear knuckles.