This is the roll center, suspension pickup, and steering angle modification thread.

[GKTECH]

Originally Posted by e30gangsta

About to install the gktech rear knuckles on my s13, and I read on the gk tech that it needs some kind of adapters if using an s13 subframe? Is this true or should it just bolt up to all of my isis arms in the rear?

Thanks.

You don't "need" any adapters however the rear knuckle is optimised for the S14/S15 rear subframe however you can get around this by quite easily welding in new mounting points for the front of the rear LCA.

[TMW]

ok this is suspension related, so i figured id ask the gurus in here

so my current coils dont really go low enough for me

they are 9k rates in the front with a 7 inch spring

if i wanted to change the springs out and get like 5 inch springs with the same rate or slightly higher rate would that affect the coilover?

[Croustibat]

Originally Posted by TMW

ok this is suspension related, so i figured id ask the gurus in here

so my current coils dont really go low enough for me

There are knowledgeable people here, but they don't do magic nor voodoo tricks.

Low, handling, cheap. Pick only 2.

Remember though, people here are about handling. Picking low and cheap means you are posting in the wrong thread.

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by TMW

ok this is suspension related, so i figured id ask the gurus in here

so my current coils dont really go low enough for me

they are 9k rates in the front with a 7 inch spring

if i wanted to change the springs out and get like 5 inch springs with the same rate or slightly higher rate would that affect the coilover?

If you can still preload the spring with a 5in spring length, then no, there will be no effect on the coilover. I had to move to 6in in the front to get the ride height I wanted as well.

[TMW]

Originally Posted by Croustibat

There are knowledgeable people here, but they don't do magic nor voodoo tricks.

Low, handling, cheap. Pick only 2.

Remember though, people here are about handling. Picking low and cheap means you are posting in the wrong thread.

i said nothing about being cheap in my post

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

If you can still preload the spring with a 5in spring length, then no, there will be no effect on the coilover. I had to move to 6in in the front to get the ride height I wanted as well.

cool cool. thanks for the help.

what springs did you end up getting for your coils? swift, hyperco?

[PoorMans180SX]

I bought Stance springs.

[Croustibat]

Originally Posted by TMW

i said nothing about being cheap in my post

lowering using coils with coilovers IS being cheap (and too low to handle most of the time)

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by Croustibat

lowering using coils with coilovers IS being cheap (and too low to handle most of the time)

Some people just want to maximize the handling of their really low cars. I'm going to be tucking tire all around, but my roll centers will be fine after I get some rear knuckles.

[Croustibat]

Some people do, but if you try a quick search on his posts, you will see that he is not exactly doing what you are doing. He just wants to go low enough to drive on the frame rails.

[sr vegas 240]

Never mind found my answer. But thanks to everyone that helped

[drift937]

so i need help finding an angle kit for a z33 that costs less than a left nut. and one people actually have in stock

[TheRealSy90]

Anybody else have reviews on the gktech roll center knuckles? The ones that bolt up under stock knuckles. Highly considering going this route, as most peoples cut and weld knuckles don't offer roll center correction for that price. Also they claim 60 degrees which should be more than enough for anybody.

[e30gangsta]

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

Anybody else have reviews on the gktech roll center knuckles? The ones that bolt up under stock knuckles. Highly considering going this route, as most peoples cut and weld knuckles don't offer roll center correction for that price. Also they claim 60 degrees which should be more than enough for anybody.

I have them on my car I like them. It was a bolt on affair took maybe an hour on the lift. Remember to get the rack spacer. It increases your track by 25mm. So keep that in mind depending on your wheel/fender setup.

[TheRealSy90]

I've got the rack spacer on both ends already. With 1.5" extended s13 flca's, the steering rack would still bottom out in both directions before the tie rod got close to the control arm, using stock knuckles. Steering rack is relocated forward in the subframe as well. I figured with two rack spacers the rack should travel enough for the tie rods to touch the flca, so idk what's going on. Of course I can adjust the tie rod shorter to the point that it touches when the rack is fully in, but then I have almost no angle when turning the other direction.


Essentially, I could make the car have a ton of steering angle to either direction, not both. But with it centered, the rack bottoms out before I get close to the max angle at the knuckle/flca.

[LuckyX2]

So who's making the best setup for grip right now? Driftworks? Wisefab? TDP? GKTech? I currently have Geomaster 2 knuckles but am considering making the switch to GKTech.

I'll likely be getting GKTech's front and rear LCAs too since those are the only arms left on my car still stock and un-adjustable. My 285 Hoosier A6s up front are ripping the ball joint out of my FLCAs anyway haha.

[e1_griego]

Aren't you on fortunes still?

I'd start there.

There are no spindles on the market that I've found fit the bill of stock-ish ackerman, quicker steering ratio, and have roll center correction. I had a set made to do just that.

The best option was the billet GKTech setup with modular bits, but obv. they're not making them any more.

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by e1_griego

Aren't you on fortunes still?

I'd start there.

There are no spindles on the market that I've found fit the bill of stock-ish ackerman, quicker steering ratio, and have roll center correction. I had a set made to do just that.

The best option was the billet GKTech setup with modular bits, but obv. they're not making them any more.

My TDP setup will do that, and with more roll center correction than every other kit. Setup for maximum front grip, I don't think there's a better kit on the market.

[dazed]

Does anyone know if shortening adjustable RLCA's would have and effect on blowing out boots? From my understanding, boots tear because they're being stretched. I'd almost think that shortening the RLCA would maybe help with this. (PBM RLCA).

I'm going to be building up a spare subframe as soon as I can find one locally that isn't bent.

PBM front and rear knuckles, mix of PBM and SPL everything else. (after reading through this thread, I'm hoping the anti-camber gain won't screw me when tucking rim).

The lip of my wheel is still poking about 8mm past the fender. I'm going to try and use the PBM RLCA to suck the wheel in a little. I am going to keep axle binding into consideration. Also, because I'm shortening the RLCA, I'm pretty sure I can't use axle spacers which I was planning on doing.

[LuckyX2]

Originally Posted by e1_griego

Aren't you on fortunes still?

I'd start there.

There are no spindles on the market that I've found fit the bill of stock-ish ackerman, quicker steering ratio, and have roll center correction. I had a set made to do just that.

The best option was the billet GKTech setup with modular bits, but obv. they're not making them any more.

Yeah, a series of unfortunate events took me from running Koni 8611's to running a mismatched setup of Fortunes up front and Ohlins in the rear... I will likely be building custom Bilstein SN monotubes this offseason to remedy that.

I need FLCAs asap since mine are busted and the ball joints are pulling out. I figured if I was going to be ordering GKTech FLCAs, I may as well order the rest of it with them to save on shipping.

Who made your custom spindle/knuckle?

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

My TDP setup will do that, and with more roll center correction than every other kit. Setup for maximum front grip, I don't think there's a better kit on the market.

I'm not that low, primarily because I will bottom out 315/35/18 Hoosiers up front if I go too low. So I'm concerned that TDP having the most roll center correction would actually be too much for me.

[yomisiu]

Originally Posted by dazed

Does anyone know if shortening adjustable RLCA's would have and effect on blowing out boots? From my understanding, boots tear because they're being stretched. I'd almost think that shortening the RLCA would maybe help with this. (PBM RLCA).

I'm going to be building up a spare subframe as soon as I can find one locally that isn't bent.

PBM front and rear knuckles, mix of PBM and SPL everything else. (after reading through this thread, I'm hoping the anti-camber gain won't screw me when tucking rim).

The lip of my wheel is still poking about 8mm past the fender. I'm going to try and use the PBM RLCA to suck the wheel in a little. I am going to keep axle binding into consideration. Also, because I'm shortening the RLCA, I'm pretty sure I can't use axle spacers which I was planning on doing.

regarding axles and blown boots, maybe check this out http://www.maverick-motorsports.com/...-axle-adapters
although read the replies on this
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=612605

maybe useful as well http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=555322

[e1_griego]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

My TDP setup will do that, and with more roll center correction than every other kit. Setup for maximum front grip, I don't think there's a better kit on the market.

Sorry, that's right.

At $2200+ ship (what seems to be the price) that's about 4x what I spent for my setup. Didn't think of that one just because of price.

Lucky: seems like you're trying to hang with PJ and Jason. I hope you're doing 20+ weekend of autox per year lol. And have a truck/trailer for all that.

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by e1_griego

Sorry, that's right.

At $2200+ ship (what seems to be the price) that's about 4x what I spent for my setup. Didn't think of that one just because of price.

Lucky: seems like you're trying to hang with PJ and Jason. I hope you're doing 20+ weekend of autox per year lol. And have a truck/trailer for all that.

Yeah it's not cheap any way you cut it. But with wider front track, caster trail, adjustable everything, etc, it's really the only kit on the market that can be setup to work on both a drift and a road course/autox car.

Lucky: The normal kit with 60mm of roll center correction doesn't seem excessive for even a moderately lowered S-chassis, but maybe your car is really that high, hah.

[e1_griego]

You want to keep an autox car as narrow as possible, so widening the front isn't necessarily the way to go.

60mm seems like a lot to me, too, when you only really need about 35-40mm for a car with a 25-25.5" tall front tire at a reasonable ride height. 315s need quite a bit of room to move.

[dazed]

Originally Posted by yomisiu

regarding axles and blown boots, maybe check this out http://www.maverick-motorsports.com/...-axle-adapters
although read the replies on this
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=612605

maybe useful as well http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=555322

Thanks man. I know about the 350z adapters, but I can't run that setup because it requires about 0* of camber and the least it's looking like i'll be able to run is about -4.5* to -5* or maybe more I haven't aligned it yet. They also recommend widening your track to run those adapters, which I'm trying to effectively do the opposite. Do appreciate the help and links though.

I did forget to mention I am really trying to run R33 or J30 axles though because of they're stronger and the rzeppa design allows for more articulation (or so I've read).

Really won't know how short I can go on the LCA's until I get the new subframe all ready and in. Not too much info on the internet about people running shorter track widths on LCA's. I know PBM's have had that capability for awhile now but it doesn't seem like many people have a need to do it.

[tauntdevil]

Originally Posted by yomisiu

regarding axles and blown boots, maybe check this out http://www.maverick-motorsports.com/...-axle-adapters
although read the replies on this
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=612605

maybe useful as well http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=555322

Would only recommend these if you are able to extend out the hubs further but for good performance, contact GetNutz for their setup. Doesnt require you to extend out further as the axle stubs themselves are modified instead of an adapter added on.

[yomisiu]

Originally Posted by dazed

Thanks man. I know about the 350z adapters, but I can't run that setup because it requires about 0* of camber and the least it's looking like i'll be able to run is about -4.5* to -5* or maybe more I haven't aligned it yet. They also recommend widening your track to run those adapters, which I'm trying to effectively do the opposite. Do appreciate the help and links though.

I did forget to mention I am really trying to run R33 or J30 axles though because of they're stronger and the rzeppa design allows for more articulation (or so I've read).

Really won't know how short I can go on the LCA's until I get the new subframe all ready and in. Not too much info on the internet about people running shorter track widths on LCA's. I know PBM's have had that capability for awhile now but it doesn't seem like many people have a need to do it.

i tried lol

keep us posted

[rbs14kouki]

Any of you guys got there GKTech flca yet ?!

[Croustibat]

Originally Posted by dazed

Thanks man. I know about the 350z adapters, but I can't run that setup because it requires about 0* of camber and the least it's looking like i'll be able to run is about -4.5* to -5* or maybe more I haven't aligned it yet. They also recommend widening your track to run those adapters, which I'm trying to effectively do the opposite. Do appreciate the help and links though.

I did forget to mention I am really trying to run R33 or J30 axles though because of they're stronger and the rzeppa design allows for more articulation (or so I've read).

Really won't know how short I can go on the LCA's until I get the new subframe all ready and in. Not too much info on the internet about people running shorter track widths on LCA's. I know PBM's have had that capability for awhile now but it doesn't seem like many people have a need to do it.

This thread is about handling. going -5° of rear camber and tucking rims is not.

Your blowing boots problem is caused by a car too low. Either get it at a proper height of modify your subframe / bushes to mount it further up in the car.

[LuckyX2]

Originally Posted by e1_griego

Lucky: seems like you're trying to hang with PJ and Jason. I hope you're doing 20+ weekend of autox per year lol. And have a truck/trailer for all that.

Yep, that's the eventual plan. My car is almost finally built to a competitive spec and 2016 is planned to be my first year attending nats. Goal is a trophy in 2016.

No trailer currently, I drove 300+ miles each way to the Devens Tour this year and miraculously had no breakages hah. Not going to attempt that with nats though, I'll be looking for a cheap tow rig this off season.

Hoping to do most of the east coast tour for 2016 and will be doing an Evo school too. Also, Aaron Shoe, who took 3rd this year behind the two GFab guys in Panda, is local to my region so I have a good benchmark to compare to.

My main problem is that I don't really know how good of a driver I am since my car has always been changing as I build it to an SM level. This past year I drove a lot but the car was always "broken". My Nismo GT diff is shot (OSG replacement is enroute currently) and I also just found out about my bad ball joints which was probably causing the understeer I struggled with all season.

I have beaten one of my nats winning friends in karting however, so there is that haha.

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

Yeah it's not cheap any way you cut it. But with wider front track, caster trail, adjustable everything, etc, it's really the only kit on the market that can be setup to work on both a drift and a road course/autox car.

Lucky: The normal kit with 60mm of roll center correction doesn't seem excessive for even a moderately lowered S-chassis, but maybe your car is really that high, hah.

60? I thought I had seen it listed as 70 before? Either way, that may still be too much and the extra width is a negative too.

Edit: I just looked on their site and actually, it says 90-110mm of correction...
http://www.tdp.ie/index.php/tdp-prod...ody-front-kit/

Originally Posted by e1_griego

You want to keep an autox car as narrow as possible, so widening the front isn't necessarily the way to go.

60mm seems like a lot to me, too, when you only really need about 35-40mm for a car with a 25-25.5" tall front tire at a reasonable ride height. 315s need quite a bit of room to move.

Yep, I'll actually be moving my struts inboard for more clearance so I can move the wheels in more and get less width while still keeping 315's.

Also, I'm probably getting the GKTech FLCAs and will be choosing their shortest (+9mm) option.

[scottie]

Originally Posted by rbs14kouki

Any of you guys got there GKTech flca yet ?!

Nope. I believe their container is still sitting in customs.