Road Race setup/ Track pics

[UNITEDMASTER]

Me personally I dont like stuff hanging under the car. The deflectors Im not so convinced, i get the concept buuuuut.

Another idea is . Where the rear seats bottom part use to be you can cut it and put a NACA duct ther faceing down then plumb as I said before.

What is your current brake set up

[Def]

Originally Posted by slider2828

Yeah the front I haven't compensated for roll center.... Just waiting to have a lower packaged arm. I don't trust myself boring out the cups, pressing in spherical bearings and all that stuff. Yeah the car is so not rotating too much right now. Just gotta go back and tune it. LOL 3/16 is 0.18" so its close....

3* Camber? Really? hmmm I am going to reduce the rear camber and take it one step at a time.

Thanks for your suggestion.... You think I can just do like a 1/4 turn in the rear upper arms and call it a day or def do you think I should go get it done again?

Thanks again!

You're focusing too much on camber and rear toe.

Zero your front toe - stock is a ton of toe-in which makes the front not want to turn into a corner.

Front you can run A LOT of negative camber because your car will lose it as it rolls on the outside wheel with out a corrected RC.

Rear camber isn't that big of a deal, I wouldn't mess with it much unless you were going to do a full alignment.

[slider2828]

Originally Posted by UNITEDMASTER

Me personally I dont like stuff hanging under the car. The deflectors Im not so convinced, i get the concept buuuuut.

Another idea is . Where the rear seats bottom part use to be you can cut it and put a NACA duct ther faceing down then plumb as I said before.

What is your current brake set up

Hmmm.... The bottom part? You mean where your butt will be if you sat in the rear seat? But isn't that pretty high up in the chassis to be effective for a NACA duct?

300zx all around with no ebrake. XP12 in the front and Hawk Blacks in the rear.....

[slider2828]

Originally Posted by Def

You're focusing too much on camber and rear toe.

Zero your front toe - stock is a ton of toe-in which makes the front not want to turn into a corner.

Front you can run A LOT of negative camber because your car will lose it as it rolls on the outside wheel with out a corrected RC.

Rear camber isn't that big of a deal, I wouldn't mess with it much unless you were going to do a full alignment.

Sorry I have no front toe, I just have .2" rear toe that is it.

Hmmmm 3* front camber, will I lose breaking distance? and it would understeer less I assume....

[racepar1]

When I could still afford to have fun with cars I was up to 3* of front camber and down to 1* of rear camber. I ran 0 front toe and 1/16th" TOTAL rear toe in. I didn't have any tire wear issues and the car stopped like nuts with my GTR brakes. I was going for more caster in the front at the end as well, I think I was up to 8.5*. If I can ever get my new car together I'm going to slot the towers and go for even more caster...

[slider2828]

Originally Posted by racepar1

When I could still afford to have fun with cars I was up to 3* of front camber and down to 1* of rear camber. I ran 0 front toe and 1/16th" TOTAL rear toe in. I didn't have any tire wear issues and the car stopped like nuts with my GTR brakes. I was going for more caster in the front at the end as well, I think I was up to 8.5*. If I can ever get my new car together I'm going to slot the towers and go for even more caster...

Castor stock is like 7.5, isn't 8.5 about the area where you are about to hit the tire wheel? I guess you don't really need that much turning radius on track.... 3* upfront hmmm sounds like the magic number... Yeah I am not a fan of such high camber in the rear, cuase there is enough traction back there especially with .2" toe....

Thanks guys... I will need to try that once I get my motor and turbo sorted out.... sigh.....

[racepar1]

Originally Posted by slider2828

Castor stock is like 7.5, isn't 8.5 about the area where you are about to hit the tire wheel? I guess you don't really need that much turning radius on track.... 3* upfront hmmm sounds like the magic number... Yeah I am not a fan of such high camber in the rear, cuase there is enough traction back there especially with .2" toe....

Thanks guys... I will need to try that once I get my motor and turbo sorted out.... sigh.....

In the rear you don't need much static camber because the geometry gains camber like crazy on compression. I need tire temp readings to verify, but I think you could go with even less...

For the front both the high static camber and the high caster are all about camber gain. With more caster you gain more camber as you turn the wheel. this allows you to run less static camber, which helps under braking. Like def said, on a lowered 240 you're probably going to be gaining positive camber as the suspension compresses so you would need more static camber to compensate for that as well. Even with roll center correction you still won't be gaining much camber, which is why I think more caster is better. BMW race guys run up to 10-12* of caster... With a double wishbone suspension, if you want more camber gain you shorten your upper arms. With a strut suspension, we don't have that option...

[slider2828]

Originally Posted by racepar1

In the rear you don't need much static camber because the geometry gains camber like crazy on compression. I need tire temp readings to verify, but I think you could go with even less...

For the front both the high static camber and the high caster are all about camber gain. With more caster you gain more camber as you turn the wheel. this allows you to run less static camber, which helps under braking. Like def said, on a lowered 240 you're probably going to be gaining positive camber as the suspension compresses so you would need more static camber to compensate for that as well. Even with roll center correction you still won't be gaining much camber, which is why I think more caster is better. BMW race guys run up to 10-12* of caster... With a double wichbone suspension, if you want more camber gain you shorten your upper arms. With a strut suspension, we don't have that option...

Cool that is a great explanation of caster and I read more about it here...

RACELINE CENTRAL: Ultimate Racing Car Chassis Setup Guide and Tutorial

Totally insightful. I also agree rear camber is that that big of a deal especially with .2" toe in on the rear.... I thin 7.5* in the front for caster is stock, maybe going 8* is good.

[racepar1]

Originally Posted by slider2828

Cool that is a great explanation of caster and I read more about it here...

RACELINE CENTRAL: Ultimate Racing Car Chassis Setup Guide and Tutorial

Totally insightful. I also agree rear camber is that that big of a deal especially with .2" toe in on the rear.... I thin 7.5* in the front for caster is stock, maybe going 8* is good.

8* is safer without modifying the towers or spending tons of money on camber/caster plates. At 8.5* tire clearence starts getting tight. With the wheel that far forward it probably starts to screw with the steering geometry as well. Also it's a good idea to slot your front tension rod mounting point on your control arms. When you start pulling the wheel forward that angle changes. At 8-8.5* I actually unknowingly bent one of my tein tension rods and cracked both control arms a little.

[slider2828]

Thanks Racepar1.... I will try that.... At 8* I should still be clear of everything lock to lock correct?

[UNITEDMASTER]

What up track guys anything new out there??????

[fromxtor]

Damn Casey, your car has come a long way since I met you at VIR. I knew when I saw your previous duct work the car was destined for greatness. Hopefully when I get back to the states I can take the Evo up to VIR for some HPDE lessons.

[slider2828]

Nothing much except turbo is dead and I don't have the money to buy the CHRA.... Saving up for an engagement ring.... But I almost have the suspension dialed in and working on a 4.4 gear for the rear end....

[UNITEDMASTER]

^^^Nice,congrats. Im puting together a new motor for this year.SR, top mount T3-60-1/.68 hot side,HKS step 1 cams,knife edged crank,ceramic coated pistons,750 injectors,haltec platinum. Looking to put down 400ish lollol . Should be ready to rock in April.

[slider2828]

You going 272 to get that power you think on a DynoDynamics?

Thanks! I feel she is the one... I mean the girlfriend, not the car hahaha..... But we all know what is up! hahahah

[racepar1]

I'm just working on my E30 since it's the more important of my two money pits. I drive the BMW every day, the 240 just keeps the floor from getting dirty underneath it...

:ghey:

However, if things go right I will be working on a SR20VET setup that I will hopefully get to use at some point. Not to mention the entire rest of my car that I still have to finish...

[INeedNewTires]

took a pic of mine from the bottom.


Prepare for the Anarchy!!!

[kalypso123]

I LOVE IT...

i have dreams of having aero with an underplate like that for the NYC pot holes...

it seems to be the only way with our rough roads.

[MisawaJason]

is that fucking wood?

[turbo2nr]

yes its wood, wood grain..

like a boss..

lol

[MisawaJason]

Morgan has nothing on that car haha

[S14_drift junkE]

that wood skid plate is SICK. Jason, lets make some at my shop!

[Beejis60]

Originally Posted by S14_drift junkE

that wood skid plate is SICK.

Looks more like a splitter.

[GripTerror]

that is just so bad ass i love that splitter

[terrorsquad]

I have 275's streached on my 17x12.5 ssr. The tires are to wide unless you really cut the body big time.

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by INeedNewTires

took a pic of mine from the bottom.


Prepare for the Anarchy!!!

Driftworks knuckles nice! Can you get any shots of them it on the ground, and of the rear? Post them in the roll center thread!

Are those 17's or 18in wheels in this pic? How close are your FLCA's to the brake rotors?

[arg23]

Racerubber.com/Lapbattle.com 240 (a.k.a. Thunderdome)

Still needs a lot of work. The car has demonstrated great potential for a budget build. We have been slowly chipping away at it when time between our programs allows it.

SR powered, fairly stock engine.

Still approx. 2-3 seconds off the silver/gold GT-3 cup cars, we lose a lot of time to their better Aero, and higher HP numbers on the big straights.




Yep tire is flat.

[AGNT84]

lovin this thread and that splitter hahaha....

[Chrisw]

^^Good looking S13! Moar pics/info?

[arg23]

Ill have to dig around for more pics. Here is an early snapshot.


Tires
280/650 fr
280/680 r (maybe 305 this year...)

Suspension
JIC

Brakes
Stop Tech 355 fr
Z32 r

Tuning
Jim Wolf Technology