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Old 05-09-2013, 08:54 PM   #13681
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s14 Fender liner

Anyone know if another Nissan has the same Fender liner as an s14? Maybe an Altima?
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Old 05-10-2013, 03:04 PM   #13682
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Just picked up an RB20 2nd gen.... the ecu says it offs an R32 GTST but I wanna know if u can tell by the motor if its off the R32 or the cefiro... anybody know how u can tell by just the motor?
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Old 05-11-2013, 09:19 AM   #13683
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Keep searching for an sr20 wiring harness kit, all I keep finding is the one wiring spec sells... Which happens to be back ordered till 2023 lol. Anyone know of someone else that makes one? Thanks!!
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Old 05-11-2013, 09:29 AM   #13684
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Originally Posted by ag240sx View Post
Just picked up an RB20 2nd gen.... the ecu says it offs an R32 GTST but I wanna know if u can tell by the motor if its off the R32 or the cefiro... anybody know how u can tell by just the motor?
Would there be any difference? you'll probably never know for sure. But I'm sure they are identical in every way.
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Old 05-11-2013, 12:06 PM   #13685
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for sr20 skinny oxygen sensor wiring...the sensor has a red, white, and black. my harness has a black, black/gray, and a brown/gray...which do i connect to which?
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Old 05-11-2013, 04:53 PM   #13686
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Keep searching for an sr20 wiring harness kit, all I keep finding is the one wiring spec sells... Which happens to be back ordered till 2023 lol. Anyone know of someone else that makes one? Thanks!!
They are back ordered? I ordered my wiring specialties harness a little over a month ago and came in the following week. Did you call them up or emailed Wiring Specialties?

You can also check out Chase Bays for their harness Chase Bays Engine Harness - Nissan S13 SR20DET - Nissan 240sx - ChaseBays.com
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Old 05-11-2013, 06:36 PM   #13687
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Im currently doing my 5 speed swap on my 1993 240sx KA.

I dont want to have a bunch of cut wires and wire plugs all over my car and engine bay.

I would like to know if anyone can point me toward a detailed write up of the s13 auto trans wiring harness.

I wanna know what i have to cut to complete the swap and what i can remove completely. I plan to remove the harness from the car, split the tape open, remove the un-needed wires and re wrap it all back up. I also plan to actually harness all of my plugs back in so that they aren' just spliced wires.


I have also began to remove my emissions equipment. I noticed that my AIV will have a wire harness left over. How could i plug this and be sure that it wont effect my car at all?

Any help is appreciated and a quick reply will also be very helpful. I will be completing assembly in the morning. Thanks guys.
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Old 05-11-2013, 07:35 PM   #13688
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then follow the link, grasshopper. a super low jack awaits.
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Old 05-11-2013, 08:34 PM   #13689
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Trying to take off everything that may be useful for my brake swap off this z32.
Got calipers, rotors, lines to the body, and brake master cylinder. Anything else???

I'll be doing the rears too, so maybe e-brake parts?


Was planning to get the dust shield covers but I think the whole hub has to come out for that.
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Old 05-11-2013, 10:53 PM   #13690
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whippet View Post
Trying to take off everything that may be useful for my brake swap off this z32.
Got calipers, rotors, lines to the body, and brake master cylinder. Anything else???

I'll be doing the rears too, so maybe e-brake parts?


Was planning to get the dust shield covers but I think the whole hub has to come out for that.
Rear hubs, e brakes, ebrake cables, hardware, rear calipers, front and rear rotors, master cylinder, front calipers, lines are useless because youll need conversion lines.
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Old 05-11-2013, 10:55 PM   #13691
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PS: the Z32 rear brakes/ebrakes are wothless, the s13/14 hub & ebrakes are better.
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Old 05-11-2013, 11:07 PM   #13692
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Keep searching for an sr20 wiring harness kit, all I keep finding is the one wiring spec sells... Which happens to be back ordered till 2023 lol. Anyone know of someone else that makes one? Thanks!!
Word, chase bays has a complete harness (which whos parts are always backordered for months), but wiring specialties makes the only harness rebuild kit that I know of. Wiring specialties has better customer service (Yury is ALWAYS on point with solutions/answers/phone calls,) so Id say go with WS. Ive bought CB power steering, brake line and fuel line products and have had a leak issue with every one of them. But with WS it has always been a no hassle trouble shooting process with their s15 products when they were brand new to the market.

I hope that rambling helps. Good luck.
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Old 05-12-2013, 01:42 PM   #13693
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would a ka engine fit inside a s13 transmission??
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Old 05-12-2013, 03:04 PM   #13694
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would a ka engine fit inside a s13 transmission??
Unsure what you're asking here...
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Old 05-12-2013, 03:05 PM   #13695
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Quote:
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that's good to hear because I just put royal purple in my sr trans but i haven't been able to drive my car yet. i was hoping the extra money was worth it on the trans fluid
I'll be the first to admit that RP sucked big time once temps got up. GL4 MT90 works best.
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Old 05-12-2013, 03:09 PM   #13696
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can u use a KA24 engine with a s13/sr20 transmission?
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Old 05-12-2013, 04:07 PM   #13697
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that's good to hear because I just put royal purple in my sr trans but i haven't been able to drive my car yet. i was hoping the extra money was worth it on the trans fluid
i hope you have gl4 fluid cause gl5 is gonna eat your syncros real quick
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Old 05-12-2013, 04:11 PM   #13698
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PS: the Z32 rear brakes/ebrakes are wothless, the s13/14 hub & ebrakes are better.
you're actually incredibly wrong.

minus the fact that any simple swap won't work with the braking ratio between s13/s14 rear calipers and z32 master/fronts, the z32 rears/ebrakes are far better than the shitty single piston caliper.

the rotor is bigger which means better leverage on braking, as well as more pistons means more clamping force. The ebrake has a greater braking surface that the pads themselves, plus they won't warp the rotors when cooling.

yeah, theres more parts which means its kind of a bitch, but unless you don't know how to learn anything then its not hard figuring it out.
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Old 05-12-2013, 07:06 PM   #13699
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Originally Posted by zombiewolf513 View Post
... lines are useless because youll need conversion lines.
Not exactly, if the the metal line is still connected you can use the banjo bolt 240sx line. Though it is not recommended as Z32 brakes don't have a locking tab.


Quote:
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PS: the Z32 rear brakes/ebrakes are wothless, the s13/14 hub & ebrakes are better.
Wrong. Z32 rear brakes and e-brakes are better than the stock single piston. As Chiboi002 said the inner drum brake has a greater braking surface.
It's just that most people don't know how to do the rear right or how to adjust the rear e-brake properly.
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Old 05-12-2013, 08:16 PM   #13700
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So i have an Isis intake manifold with the stock throttle body.

the FMIC piping cold pip i have is for stock intake manifolds.

what coupler can i use to make the cold pipe fit on my car?
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Old 05-12-2013, 08:24 PM   #13701
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Not exactly, if the the metal line is still connected you can use the banjo bolt 240sx line. Though it is not recommended as Z32 brakes don't have a locking tab.




Wrong. Z32 rear brakes and e-brakes are better than the stock single piston. As Chiboi002 said the inner drum brake has a greater braking surface.
It's just that most people don't know how to do the rear right or how to adjust the rear e-brake properly.
So should I pull that stuff off the car while I have access to it?
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Old 05-13-2013, 12:49 PM   #13702
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Can anyone show ne a pictures can were I can put the hose for the AC recharger? I can't find the port thingy to put it in...
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Old 05-13-2013, 01:14 PM   #13703
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So should I pull that stuff off the car while I have access to it?
Yeah, pull out everything zombiewolf said. I was just stating that the lines aren't "useless", there have been people you have used 240sx lines but it's NOT recommended. Also if you do the rear e-brake correctly it is much better than your stock one.

PS- Don't forget the Brake Booster also. It improves brake pedal feel.

Quote:
Originally Posted by zombiewolf513 View Post
Rear hubs, e brakes, ebrake cables, hardware, rear calipers, front and rear rotors, master cylinder, front calipers, lines are useless because youll need conversion lines.
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Old 05-13-2013, 04:32 PM   #13704
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What would be the name of the socket I would need to buy to remove Work wheel hardware like what's pictured

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Old 05-13-2013, 04:47 PM   #13705
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Looks like a 12 point socket
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Old 05-13-2013, 10:14 PM   #13706
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i hope you have gl4 fluid cause gl5 is gonna eat your syncros real quick
it specified on the bottle that it will be safe on brass syncros i made sure i looked before i put it in.
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Old 05-13-2013, 10:20 PM   #13707
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What would the perfect pipping size be for a KA24DE be? I currently have stock exhaust manifold to a test pipe and a buddy club spec 2 which is 3". Would running 2.5 be better?
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Old 05-14-2013, 01:03 AM   #13708
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Yeah, pull out everything zombiewolf said. I was just stating that the lines aren't "useless", there have been people you have used 240sx lines but it's NOT recommended. Also if you do the rear e-brake correctly it is much better than your stock one.

PS- Don't forget the Brake Booster also. It improves brake pedal feel.
Do you mean the brake master Cylinder?
Also, what is the point of getting the hubs?
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Old 05-14-2013, 02:00 AM   #13709
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Do you mean the brake master Cylinder?
Also, what is the point of getting the hubs?
both, but the brake booster isn't 100% necessary, just on stock s13 booster it feels VERY stiff in the pedal.
the hubs have an adapter plate that is needed to run the z32 anchor bolt, if you don't want to get the hubs LMK i have adapters i made that i can replicate for you, if you want.

in all honesty, just take everything from the brakes that you can. ebrake lines, soft lines, calipers, rotors, master cylinder, everything. if you don't need it just throw it out later, but once its gone you cant get it back.

Quote:
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What would be the name of the socket I would need to buy to remove Work wheel hardware like what's pictured
IIRC the one i have is a 8mm 12-point socket, 5/16 12point works a bit better. if you are super anal, you can do what i did and cover the insides of the socket with some liquid electric tape. let it fully dry and it'll act as a rubber shield from fucking up the paint on the work hardware (some hardware is plastic and the paint flakes)
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Old 05-14-2013, 06:03 AM   #13710
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Can anyone show ne a pictures can were I can put the hose for the AC recharger? I can't find the port thingy to put it in...
Locate your MAF. Look down about 8" and back about 4" for a little silver A/C line. See the little thing that looks like a tire valve?(It may have a cap on it). I also may be hidden by the airbox or the filter. If you are running an Injen type it's right there by that, but lower and farther back
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