SR20DET Redtop overheating when driving more than 20 miles on highway

[Mikester]

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

back in 05 or 06 I was doing this. Its been 10 years and Ive only gotten better at it.

FINALLY... Something we all can agree on- your stupidity skills have definitely improved dramatically since then.

[Sileighty_85]

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

Because you totally have tried and found that out, right? Funny how I drove that car 20% of the time without the turbine connected. Sounds to me like you simply have no clue how a turbocharger works.

Worst troll ever.

[Croustibat]

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

so it has all oem equipment and you daily it? and you really drive it at 80mph (3500rpms) continuously on full OEM equipment for long distances, right?

OP says 65, not 80 (but anyway it should run with no problem at all at 80)

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

Because you totally have tried and found that out, right? Funny how I drove that car 20% of the time without the turbine connected. Sounds to me like you simply have no clue how a turbocharger works.

Yes, please entertain us. How the hell do you "disconnect the turbine ?" You mean wastegate actuator ?

Here is a hint : when cruising, you are using 20-30HP. wastegate connected or not, it still is 20-30HP ... explain how it should have any influence.

I dont care how many swap you did, you are writing fucking lies and bullshit here.

To me there can be only 2 reasons;

1/ You and the OP decided to make an enormous trolling thread. Congrats, you won. Please, if thats it, tell the truth. I'd prefer this.

2/ i'd hate it, but it really looks like you scammed someone, and keep on lying because your brain is completely damaged. The first part deserves a ban from here, clearly. The second requires you to get in a hospital.

I really dont mind your crazy talk, it is somewhat entertaining, and i guess many people think the same. But scamming people, and selling them shitty cars that "arent supposed to go faster than 65mph ?" Nope, cant accept that.


So which will it be ?

[jr_ss]

It'll be none of the above. He'll come in here defending his absurd claims about a T25 can't cruise at 80mph and 3500rpms. Then he'll spit more brainwashed ideas out and call us all retards because we aren't on the same "wave" length as him.

All kidding aside, Kingalton, you do spit some random crazy bullshit out at times and at others you make complete sense. It's like there are two minds up there fighting over the keyboard. A lot of it is ricidulousness, but some of it is justifiable. These latest are not what so ever.

[240boi115]

my blacktop i ran in my s13. pushed it many times and no heating issues.. the only thing i did after was install a apexi intake filter for better flow so there you go! proof! and go ask the shop that helped me with the swap as well they probably know more than you do!

[240boi115]

my only apology is for the crappy cell pic. my damn Nikon is broken

[Kingtal0n]

one of my favorites. GM sunset metallic. fully built with forged components.

[Kingtal0n]

Originally Posted by 240boi115

my blacktop i ran in my s13. pushed it many times and no heating issues.. the only thing i did after was install a apexi intake filter for better flow so there you go! proof! and go ask the shop that helped me with the swap as well they probably know more than you do!

Clean install. Now take it on the highway, and push it hard non stop for 50 miles on the highway. the temp gauge will rise unless the airflow ducting under the vehicle is proper. simple. a rising temp gauge does not mean overheating. my car never overheated and it still has not by definition over heated. for all we know the temp gauge is reading high. It doesnt even have an actual water temp gauge- its a redtop in an S14 from 95, maybe the resistor is picking up 190*F as "hot". And yet, everybody is soooo sure thats trash, its got a warped head, etc...

nobody in this thread has even seen the car in question, nor knows anything about it and yet they are so quick to judge. everything about the engine in every respect is perfect oem stuff. Like I said already: 4 years of every day driving and 20 or 30 clean proper swaps later. I offered to get a video of the gauge on the highway and under what conditions it moves- owner refused. what more can I do? You tell me?

[Kingtal0n]

Oh, and heres the final paycheck. I would still be driving my car if I hadn't found this.




the ONLY thing, the ONLY reason that I would have sold my car for, is that. Excuse me, gave it away. That should tell you something right there.

[ultimateirving]

Originally Posted by Nissan2nr22

Title pretty much sums it all

Engine is all stock, original.

I drive 15 miles from work to home daily twice and the cars fine, heat gauge is a little below half.

Yesterday I had to drive to Miami, at about 20-30 miles in heat slowly started rising till almost the top.

Obviously I pulled over before it hit the top, cooled the radiator down.

I noticed when I put the car in neutral while going 70-80 on the highway and just cruise the heat QUICKLY RISES after 20+ miles of traveling at 70+ MPH

1) From Previous owner, he said : Redtops arent made to go past 65mph and to be able to do that I'd have to get a bigger turbo and a 6 speed trans.


Please tell me I really need to be able to travel longer distances.

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

Clean install. Now take it on the highway, and push it hard non stop for 50 miles on the highway. the temp gauge will rise unless the airflow ducting under the vehicle is proper. simple. a rising temp gauge does not mean overheating. my car never overheated and it still has not by definition over heated. for all we know the temp gauge is reading high. It doesnt even have an actual water temp gauge- its a redtop in an S14 from 95, maybe the resistor is picking up 190*F as "hot". And yet, everybody is soooo sure thats trash, its got a warped head, etc...

Look at the OP above, he is not beating on it. He is not going 50+ miles. He said in NEUTRAL the temp creeps up. Ask him if he is WOT while in neutral.. its clearly not a "redtop" problem. Nor is it a t25 problem. Stop crapping up his thread already.

[Kingtal0n]

Originally Posted by ultimateirving

Look at the OP above, he is not beating on it. He is not going 50+ miles. He said in NEUTRAL the temp creeps up. Ask him if he is WOT while in neutral.. its clearly not a "redtop" problem. Nor is it a t25 problem. Stop crapping up his thread already.

no, he is afraid to SAY that he is beating on it. Have you actually seen him driving it? No. it was MY car for 4 years. Not YOURS. I know for a FACT he is beating on it because that it the ONLY way the temp gauge moves. Stop telling fiction about your "theory". and lol at the temp rising in neutral. how does that even make any sense? read the sentance again
"I noticed when I put the car in neutral while going 70-80 on the highway and just cruise the heat QUICKLY RISES after 20+ miles of traveling at 70+ MPH"

How is he going to go 20 miles in neutral? It says the heat quickly rises at 20+ miles at 70MPH... after he said he put it into neutral. I think you need to re-read and try to understand that not everybody types what they mean online.

[240boi115]

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

Clean install. Now take it on the highway, and push it hard non stop for 50 miles on the highway. the temp gauge will rise unless the airflow ducting under the vehicle is proper. simple. a rising temp gauge does not mean overheating. my car never overheated and it still has not by definition over heated. for all we know the temp gauge is reading high. It doesnt even have an actual water temp gauge- its a redtop in an S14 from 95, maybe the resistor is picking up 190*F as "hot". And yet, everybody is soooo sure thats trash, its got a warped head, etc...

nobody in this thread has even seen the car in question, nor knows anything about it and yet they are so quick to judge. everything about the engine in every respect is perfect oem stuff. Like I said already: 4 years of every day driving and 20 or 30 clean proper swaps later. I offered to get a video of the gauge on the highway and under what conditions it moves- owner refused. what more can I do? You tell me?

im not saying your work is crap at all.. from what you posted you do some clean swaps. (thanks for the compliment by the way on my bay) but ive pushed my sr pretty hard and it didn't overheat at all so maybe the temp gauge is broken who knows...do you have pics of the car sold? better yet the engine bay of the car sold? I drove my sr pretty hard at first and then settled down a bit and the only thing that happened was the oem clutch taking a crap (typical for a 20 year old motor thats been sitting) and the turbo seizing up on me which i rebuilt and then never had a problem after...so im not thinking its a redtop thing... i mean the t25 has its limits, its not exactly the biggest or best turbo around but they aren't shit either which is what it seems like your pointing to. i daily drove my sr for about 10 months with freeway driving on long distances and yes id hit 85 in 5th for extended periods of time and never ran into issues.

[Kingtal0n]

oops forgot to add another swap
one of my father's 240's. Still driving great since 2008. lets see, thats, 5 years later that car is still going strong fully built with forged parts and paint. Tuned by me on the street. If I didnt know what I was doing, it would not still be together would it now.
























The t-25 turbine is very small. it represents and exhaust restriction. that causes it to trap heat. the exhaust gas temp with the turbine connected is over 1450*F while cruising. When you disconnect the turbine, it drops to around 1000*F-1150*F. Now that is really something huh? And guess what happens to the oil temperature? And the coolant temperature? And the compressor outlet temperature?

http://zilvia.net/f/cars-sale/397258...-power-fc.html
Here it is years ago. I changed it around a bit since then. I recirculated the bypass. I added a few goodies. He picked up the car for the price of an empty chassis- the engine was basically free. so was the differential. and the brakes. and the seats. Only reason I sold it was to get quick cash to pick up that kouki, otherwise i would have kept it for plenty more years.

[Sileighty_85]

Im still waiting on the explanation on how to "Disconnect" the turbo and keep it drivable efficiently


Clearly this is just an Issue with your cars which means you fail and suck at being a mechanic.

[Mikester]

What's the matter, Kingtal0n?

Run out of idiotic shit to say?

[Nissan2nr22]

Back on track, im happy to say that the old owner was wrong.

I installed a mishimoto radiator, kept OEM fan and shroud, kept same hoses, and I successfully drove from my house to miami (50 miles).


So the radiator fixed my heating issue.

[fliprayzin240sx]

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

oops forgot to add another swap
one of my father's 240's. Still driving great since 2008. lets see, thats, 5 years later that car is still going strong fully built with forged parts and paint. Tuned by me on the street. If I didnt know what I was doing, it would not still be together would it now.

The t-25 turbine is very small. it represents and exhaust restriction. that causes it to trap heat. the exhaust gas temp with the turbine connected is over 1450*F while cruising. When you disconnect the turbine, it drops to around 1000*F-1150*F. Now that is really something huh? And guess what happens to the oil temperature? And the coolant temperature? And the compressor outlet temperature?

http://zilvia.net/f/cars-sale/397258...-power-fc.html
Here it is years ago. I changed it around a bit since then. I recirculated the bypass. I added a few goodies. He picked up the car for the price of an empty chassis- the engine was basically free. so was the differential. and the brakes. and the seats. Only reason I sold it was to get quick cash to pick up that kouki, otherwise i would have kept it for plenty more years.

What the fuck are you babbling about the T25? Are you a nissan engineer? How the fuck would you know what your EGT was when you didnt even have a fucking water temp sensor to know exactly what your water temp was? 1450* F is like 750* C. Thats normal fucking cruising EGT temp for my SR and RB at 80 mph, my water temp sits at 80* at that speed and my oil temp would be around 80*.

[Croustibat]

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

The t-25 turbine is very small. it represents and exhaust restriction. that causes it to trap heat. the exhaust gas temp with the turbine connected is over 1450*F while cruising. When you disconnect the turbine, it drops to around 1000*F-1150*F. Now that is really something huh? And guess what happens to the oil temperature? And the coolant temperature? And the compressor outlet temperature?

Thats bullcrap. Again, what do you call "disconnect the turbine" ? It means nothing. Disconnect the wastegate actuator yes, but that would be utterly stupid.

BTW did i mention how much i beat the crap out of these turbos for hours, on track and on the road, without any overheat ? And guess what ? I have an EGT probe, an oil temp probe and a water temp probe. Even beating on them the highest i got the T25 is 900°, which is STILL OK AS FAR AS GARRETT IS CONCERNED. The T28 wont even go that high, i have to go back to grade 6 plugs to even get 850° out of it (thats e85 cooling effect for you)

What i do know however is that the standard temp gauge on an S13 and S14 is a "too late" temp gauge. If it goes to the top, you won a "check your headgasket" award.


I dont care how many cars you did or claim you did. Fact is you are spouting nonsense crap. As long as that crap is only inside your head, or on your car, thats not a problem.

As soon as this crap is on cars you sell, then this becomes a general problem. Understand ?

[Mikester]

Originally Posted by Nissan2nr22

Back on track, im happy to say that the old owner was wrong.

I installed a mishimoto radiator, kept OEM fan and shroud, kept same hoses, and I successfully drove from my house to miami (50 miles).


So the radiator fixed my heating issue.

LOL he probably had the old one completely clogged with stop-leak; or some other, equally ghetto shit.

Glad you fixed it.

[NickIsAZero]

Is this real life?

[240boi115]

Originally Posted by Nissan2nr22

Back on track, im happy to say that the old owner was wrong.

I installed a mishimoto radiator, kept OEM fan and shroud, kept same hoses, and I successfully drove from my house to miami (50 miles).


So the radiator fixed my heating issue.

congrats to you. glad to see the heat issue was solved and you can drive without fear again

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by 240boi115

congrats to you. glad to see the heat issue was solved and you can drive without fear again

Make sure you disconnect your turbine on trips longer than 50miles though...

[Nissan2nr22]

lolololol i love this!

[Kingtal0n]

[Kingtal0n]

How was I wrong? Let me quote myself:

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

haters gonna hate. mark my words: kid installs big radiator without also adding an oil cooler. coolant stays cool but the oil overheats while he drives over the speed limit (which, by the way, is what happens when you go past 3000rpm in 5th). oil breaks down, bearings are toast.

I give it 6 months to live.

So far all I see is me being right. Im warning you do not listen to people on zilvia over the person that built that car. You have 6 months of highway driving before that engine is toast. Longer if you are lucky; but I bet you are not.

Well, we wont find out now because he sold it.

[Kingtal0n]

peace


Ill come back when I feel like posting the other 20 swaps. or 30 or whatever.

[jr_ss]

God you really are an idiot...

[Sileighty_85]

Originally Posted by jr_ss

God you really are an idiot...

X2

Post as many pics of cars you dont work on or dont own you have already established yourself as a stupid fucktard. Or even if you do work on them thanks for letting us know not to buy your shitty cars.


DONT BUY CARS FROM IMPORT JAPAN IN FLORIDA!!


The new owner already said the new Radiator fixed the issue so you clearly suck as a mechanic.


Any dumbfuck like yourself can swap in an engine. Keeping it reliable is where true ability comes into play

Im still waiting for the answers as to why 1,000+ ppl including myself DD SR20's on long trips past 3K RPMs and have no issues (especially after 5 years of doing so)

and still wondering how to disconnect the turbo and keep it driving efficiently

[Frank_Jaeger]

I think there was some kind of disagreement going on but I got distracted by colorful koukis. Excellent tactic.

[Croustibat]

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

Ill come back when I feel like posting the other 20 swaps. or 30 or whatever.

Dont feel obliged to come back, really.