Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[gio240sx]

Originally Posted by S14rebuild

See whats jamming it. These cars have a vert basic and simple setup for the windows, remove it and inspect it

that’s what i’m doing right now, seems to be working so far. Will update once done!

[gio240sx]

Originally Posted by S14rebuild

See whats jamming it. These cars have a vert basic and simple setup for the windows, remove it and inspect it

LMAO i got the regulator out but ended up leaving right after and when i came back to install the new one i became stuck on how to correctly re-install the regulator. was only able to find removal videos online nothing really for re-installing the regulator on a s14.

[Presto]

I recently put in a Walbro 255 it was working for like a month good but just went eeeeeeaaarrttt now it’s not priming/making any noise, I don’t think there was gas in the tank

Time for new pump?

[S14rebuild]

Yes new pump, clean the tank out too.

New pick up sock and z32 fuel filter

[Presto]

Originally Posted by S14rebuild

Yes new pump, clean the tank out too.

New pick up sock and z32 fuel filter

I have z32 filter and I cleaned the tank with muriatic acid

but could just having no gas cause this? Because ifnot There even might be crap in the tank still

[S14rebuild]

Originally Posted by Presto

I have z32 filter and I cleaned the tank with muriatic acid

but could just having no gas cause this? Because ifnot There even might be crap in the tank still

Yes no gas can kill a.pump.

Pull it out and look at the pickup sock. If its dirty and clogged, tank isnt clean

Looks new, then either no gas killed the pump or the pump is a dud.

Be careful lots of chinese knock off walbro 255 are sold

[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by Presto

I cleaned the tank with muriatic acid

Good thing you have a whole spare fuel system laying around...

It doesn't need that kind of cleaning. "crap in the tank" will be things you can see, it's not microscopic. If it does need that kind of cleaning, it needs to be removed from the car.

[Presto]

Originally Posted by mechanicalmoron

Good thing you have a whole spare fuel system laying around...

It doesn't need that kind of cleaning. "crap in the tank" will be things you can see, it's not microscopic. If it does need that kind of cleaning, it needs to be removed from the car.

I removed it from the car, filled it with muriatic acid and water and let sit for 24 hours I emptied and rinsed with wire brush

It’s possible for flash rust to happen after if I didn’t do good with sealing it because of the acid and I didn’t have a base to nuetralize it

[Presto]

Originally Posted by S14rebuild

Yes no gas can kill a.pump.

Pull it out and look at the pickup sock. If its dirty and clogged, tank isnt clean

Looks new, then either no gas killed the pump or the pump is a dud.

Be careful lots of chinese knock off walbro 255 are sold

Ohhh okay I’ll try that thx

[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by Presto

I removed it from the car, filled it with muriatic acid and water and let sit for 24 hours I emptied and rinsed with wire brush

It’s possible for flash rust to happen after if I didn’t do good with sealing it because of the acid and I didn’t have a base to nuetralize it

Yeah, there was no reason at all to put acid in it. All you do is dump the thing, if you need a cleaner there's plenty of mild ones that won't hurt anything, you can use something like simple green or just water (a power washer works great, take it to the car wash), if you need an abrasive throw a chain in. To dry, pour a bottle of rubbing alcohol in, shake and pour out, reinstall and fill with gas.

It's not ghosts or sub-atomic particles you're trying to remove, you don't need to corrode your entire fuel system with acid in order to get the chunks out.

[Presto]

Originally Posted by mechanicalmoron

Yeah, there was no reason at all to put acid in it. All you do is dump the thing, if you need a cleaner there's plenty of mild ones that won't hurt anything, you can use something like simple green or just water (a power washer works great, take it to the car wash), if you need an abrasive throw a chain in. To dry, pour a bottle of rubbing alcohol in, shake and pour out, reinstall and fill with gas.

It's not ghosts or sub-atomic particles you're trying to remove, you don't need to corrode your entire fuel system with acid in order to get the chunks out.

The reason was to clean it and if all I did was “dump the thing” all the rust would still be there lol

Also I don’t have a chain with me and the gas tank isn’t my entire fuel system

[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by Presto

The reason was to clean it and if all I did was “dump the thing” all the rust would still be there lol

Also I don’t have a chain with me and the gas tank isn’t my entire fuel system

Well, it does take some basic supplies, or the willingness to get them, to fix cars.... a chain is one example, a handful of bolts is less convenient but will suffice.

The entire fuel system is connected to the fuel tank, in case you didn't notice. If you fill it with acid that you can't properly neutralize or remove, yeah, you did contaminate your whole fuel system.

You have a clever answer, but you also have a broken car, so... how clever is your answer?

[JrDarknes]

Anyone ever have a innovate wideband stay in the CAL (Calibration) when they were installing it?

I installed my innovate mtx-ol plus and it stays in calibration mode after warming up.

I double checked my wiring it’s all correct. Could I just have been sent a bad O2 sensor?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mr.nismo.]

Originally Posted by JrDarknes

Anyone ever have a innovate wideband stay in the CAL (Calibration) when they were installing it?

I installed my innovate mtx-ol plus and it stays in calibration mode after warming up.

I double checked my wiring it’s all correct. Could I just have been sent a bad O2 sensor?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's the possibility. Is the wiring to your unit good though? Has good pwr/gnd? Also, have you tried setting it with a computer?

Sent from my Galaxy Note 10+ using Tapatalk

[mau5trap]

How much do s13 open diffs go for?

[mau5trap]

How much do s13 open diffs go for?

[e1_griego]

Used to be like $40, now seemingly around $100-120.

[ThisGuyTR]

hey guys wondering about 5 lug

i have the stock hubs and im going to buy the s14 5x100 swap instead of the 5x114.3 mainly because i have 4 sets of 5x100 and 2 universal.

My question is, how much power could i run the 5x100 up to before your breaking sht? my set up is going to be around 300-350whp..

[Bleakley]

Originally Posted by e1_griego

Used to be like $40, now seemingly around $100-120.

There’s no way? That’s what I used to pay for J30’s, Q45’s, etc.
Open diffs were yeah - $40-$50 MAX $60 if you needed shit now. Lol.

[S14rebuild]

Originally Posted by ThisGuyTR

hey guys wondering about 5 lug

i have the stock hubs and im going to buy the s14 5x100 swap instead of the 5x114.3 mainly because i have 4 sets of 5x100 and 2 universal.

My question is, how much power could i run the 5x100 up to before your breaking sht? my set up is going to be around 300-350whp..

1000hp would be safe

[[240sx]]

Originally Posted by ThisGuyTR

My question is, how much power could i run the 5x100 up to before your breaking sht? my set up is going to be around 300-350whp..

I think the quality of wheel studs would be more of a concern, then the amount of studs. Hondas run 4x100 on slicks.

[S14rebuild]

Originally Posted by [240sx]

I think the quality of wheel studs would be more of a concern, then the amount of studs. Hondas run 4x100 on slicks.

Exactly....the question askd couldnt of been that serious.


Who converts nissan to a honda 4x100 anyways?

[brndck]

Originally Posted by ThisGuyTR

hey guys wondering about 5 lug

i have the stock hubs and im going to buy the s14 5x100 swap instead of the 5x114.3 mainly because i have 4 sets of 5x100 and 2 universal.

My question is, how much power could i run the 5x100 up to before your breaking sht? my set up is going to be around 300-350whp..

how are you converting to 5x100??? adapter spacers? Redrilling your hubs?
Why reinvent the wheel?

sell your dumb pcd wheels and get the correct gear.

[collegekid]

Anyone have an idea on rotating torque for an Sr20det?

As in, my engine is in the car and has been sitting for some time. I removed the spark plugs and dumped some oil down the spark plug hole. Spark plugs are still out, car has the drive shaft removed, trans is in neutral, engine oil is at the correct level (Rotella 15w-40 or 10w-40 I dont remember exactly).

If I were to put a 27mm socket on the crank bolt and rotate it with a Dial gauge torque wrench, what range should my readings fall within? I know initial torque will be high but rotating torque should be what?

From my skimming the FSM, I did not see anything like this. From Sr20forum or somewhere, I read it should be between 10-18 ft-lb (I'm going to assume this means a long block with spark plugs removed).

Thoughts?

[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by collegekid

Anyone have an idea on rotating torque for an Sr20det?

As in, my engine is in the car and has been sitting for some time. I removed the spark plugs and dumped some oil down the spark plug hole. Spark plugs are still out, car has the drive shaft removed, trans is in neutral, engine oil is at the correct level (Rotella 15w-40 or 10w-40 I dont remember exactly).

If I were to put a 27mm socket on the crank bolt and rotate it with a Dial gauge torque wrench, what range should my readings fall within? I know initial torque will be high but rotating torque should be what?

From my skimming the FSM, I did not see anything like this. From Sr20forum or somewhere, I read it should be between 10-18 ft-lb (I'm going to assume this means a long block with spark plugs removed).

Thoughts?

Grab the balancer with both hands, put your shoulder into it, and it should turn.

[gio240sx]

alright so my 97 s14 won’t psss smog, keeps throwing a p0171 code when the check engine light turns on and the engine bogs hard, car shut off on me at a stop sign about 1 minute after leaving the smog shop too. here’s a photo of the paper from the shop if anyone could know the culprit. already replaced the MAF sensor the o2 sensor and i don’t see any leaks anywhere. here’s a photo of the smog sheet if anyone could help i’d appreciate it https://ibb.co/dQthtzw

[S14rebuild]

You have a vauccum leak sumwhere...bad hose. Cracked, or disconnected.

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by gio240sx

alright so my 97 s14 won’t psss smog, keeps throwing a p0171 code when the check engine light turns on and the engine bogs hard, car shut off on me at a stop sign about 1 minute after leaving the smog shop too. here’s a photo of the paper from the shop if anyone could know the culprit. already replaced the MAF sensor the o2 sensor and i don’t see any leaks anywhere. here’s a photo of the smog sheet if anyone could help i’d appreciate it https://ibb.co/dQthtzw

P0171 Fuel Injection System Function (Lean Side)
Detected when: Fuel injection system does not operate properly. The amount of mixture ratio compensation is too large (ratio is too lean).
Check Items (Possible Cause):
-Intake air leak
-Front heated oxygen sensor
-Injectors
-Exhaust gas leak
-Incorrect fuel pressure
-Lack of fuel
-Mass air flow sensor

You've already replaced MAF and O2 sensor, so it's probably one of those other causes. Trouble shooting steps begin at page EC-143 in this document: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/240sx/1997/ec.pdf

On a car that old, I'd fully inspect the intake boots & hoses (like take them off the car and really inspect them). Every one of my cars has had a torn boot or a cracked hose that wasn't easy to spot from a basic "visual inspection." The other one that actually happened to my 97 was the EGR hard pipe was cracked and needed to be replaced, was easy to hear that exhaust leak however. Other things could be faulty/clogged injectors or a failing fuel pump even. Looks like you're up over 250k miles, stuff just wears out.

[gio240sx]

Originally Posted by LoSt180

P0171 Fuel Injection System Function (Lean Side)
Detected when: Fuel injection system does not operate properly. The amount of mixture ratio compensation is too large (ratio is too lean).
Check Items (Possible Cause):
-Intake air leak
-Front heated oxygen sensor
-Injectors
-Exhaust gas leak
-Incorrect fuel pressure
-Lack of fuel
-Mass air flow sensor

You've already replaced MAF and O2 sensor, so it's probably one of those other causes. Trouble shooting steps begin at page EC-143 in this document: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/240sx/1997/ec.pdf

On a car that old, I'd fully inspect the intake boots & hoses (like take them off the car and really inspect them). Every one of my cars has had a torn boot or a cracked hose that wasn't easy to spot from a basic "visual inspection." The other one that actually happened to my 97 was the EGR hard pipe was cracked and needed to be replaced, was easy to hear that exhaust leak however. Other things could be faulty/clogged injectors or a failing fuel pump even. Looks like you're up over 250k miles, stuff just wears out.

yea i took it to a family friend to check the car out while i worked today, and the 250k miles is on the chasis itself, engine was swapped back in 2012 and only has about 70k miles on the new motor(still a stock ka24de)

[collegekid]

Originally Posted by collegekid

Anyone have an idea on rotating torque for an Sr20det?

As in, my engine is in the car and has been sitting for some time. I removed the spark plugs and dumped some oil down the spark plug hole. Spark plugs are still out, car has the drive shaft removed, trans is in neutral, engine oil is at the correct level (Rotella 15w-40 or 10w-40 I dont remember exactly).

If I were to put a 27mm socket on the crank bolt and rotate it with a Dial gauge torque wrench, what range should my readings fall within? I know initial torque will be high but rotating torque should be what?

From my skimming the FSM, I did not see anything like this. From Sr20forum or somewhere, I read it should be between 10-18 ft-lb (I'm going to assume this means a long block with spark plugs removed).

Thoughts?

Originally Posted by mechanicalmoron

Grab the balancer with both hands, put your shoulder into it, and it should turn.

I appreciate your feedback.

Measuring it with a torque wrench yielded these results.

With the conditions described above, and the longblock connected to the alternator, clutch fan, power steering ( AC compressor not installed), my initial torque to get it moving was about 25 ft-lb. Once moving, I had it rotating at 10 ft-lb and then it would jump to about 20 ft-lb. I'll try it again later just to make sure its not binding up or catching on something.

I'm thinking that i most likely scraped the fan shroud with my torque wrench.