2JZGTE Swapped S-Chassis thread

[premaire]

Anyone has the clutch fan setup for sale

[Drink&Drift]

Originally Posted by turbob16ef

i think all 1/2j swaps require sway bar spacer or sikky sway. Unless your using the tech2 kit.

Whatever mounts you get im sure will specify or someone on hereknows if spacers or aftermarket sway is needed.

My Xcessive mounts let me use a thicker ISIS Sway bar with no spacers, fits perfectly

[AS240]

Originally Posted by boostedoxide

I have a fabricator that could probably weld the VVTI throttle body to a different manifold, but that would still leave me with a 75mm throttle body which in my opinion, is way to small for any kind of single turbo/2JZ application. But that would be considered a last resort method..

My neighbor made 850whp on the stock plenum and throttle body. You really don't need to change it out unless you're shooting for stupid high power. And if you are making a ton of power, you'll probably need a standalone ecu, and at the moment, I don't know of any that allow you to retain drive by wire/cruise and all that.

[AS240]

Originally Posted by reynas14

Hey i forgot that i needed the water pump back housing when i got my gates kit. I have an aristo 2jzgte, you guys know if i can go to the junk yard and just pull a 2jzge water pump back housing off and use it on mine? Thanks

I believe GE and GTE pumps are different and not interchangeable.
I do have the back housing I could sell you if you're interested. You would just need to buy the bypass tube that runs from the upper coolant outlet down into the water pump.
THIS
Welcome to Driftmotion!

[turbob16ef]

I wonder if I can slot my myjzmounts to make my swaybar fit. Lol.

[BiG MiKE86]

Originally Posted by Drink&Drift

My Xcessive mounts let me use a thicker ISIS Sway bar with no spacers, fits perfectly

How much space do you have between the back of the cylinder head and the firewall?

[JohanM]

Originally Posted by AS240

My neighbor made 850whp on the stock plenum and throttle body. You really don't need to change it out unless you're shooting for stupid high power. And if you are making a ton of power, you'll probably need a standalone ecu, and at the moment, I don't know of any that allow you to retain drive by wire/cruise and all that.

the new AEM Infinity lets you run the DBW.

[Chronicle]

So I found a new engine importer in Gaithersburg, MD called MD JDM Motors. I have to say, being able to see the engine in person was a big help. I went looking for a normal 2JZ, but I ended up getting a VVT-i 2JZ. Good news is it came with the Ignitor and the MAF, bad news is the immobilized ECU. I'll just have to get an older one, no big deal.



As you can see, I don't have the best place to work on the engine, as I have no garage. But at least it's airtight, will stay dry, and I plan on keeping a dehumidifier in there just in case. Working on taking the stock twins off to get rebuilt as of now.

If anyone needs an A341e, torque converter and Flexplate for cheap, let me know! I don't want it haha

[Cronus577]

Hey guys, got a question for you people out there with 2jz swapped s-chassis. I got a 95 s14 2jz swapped with an R154 and my clutch pedal acts weird. When it's cold it engages right off the floor and sometimes it doesn't allow me to even get into gear, but when it's hot it engages almost all the way out. I replaced my slave cylinder and it still does it. Anybody have any idea what could be happening? It still uses the stock hardlines and master cylinder. Please PM me!

[reynas14]

Originally Posted by AS240

I believe GE and GTE pumps are different and not interchangeable.
I do have the back housing I could sell you if you're interested. You would just need to buy the bypass tube that runs from the upper coolant outlet down into the water pump.
THIS
Welcome to Driftmotion!

AS240 thank you sir! PMing now!!! YAY

[kaking]

Sadly im pondering the idea of selling my swap and maybe even s14 before i get it finished. Getting a little more mature and thinking about getting a classic celica. I dont get to drift regularly and it would be nice to drive a car that you dont have to worry about getting stolen(as much). What do you guys think i could get for my swap & car??

Aristo 2jz
W58
Stock twins
New Clutch and slave cylinder
New OEM Head Gasket
New ARP Headstuds(resurfaced)
New Oil Pump

New Xcessive Mounts
New Wiring Specialties Harness
New Ebay Downpipe

White 95 s14(clean minus primer rear bumper)
PBM Coilovers(less than 500miles on them)
5lug w/ Zbrakes & steal braided lines
18x10 XXR 521
ISIS rear links
Megan Type 2 exhaust
PBM high mount intercooler
Welded Diff
Walbro
New subframe bushings(not installed)

Just curious what you guys think AS FAR AS PRICE. Still not sure if i really wanna sell yet

[Chronicle]

Originally Posted by kaking

Sadly im pondering the idea of selling my swap and maybe even s14 before i get it finished. Getting a little more mature and thinking about getting a classic celica. I dont get to drift regularly and it would be nice to drive a car that you dont have to worry about getting stolen(as much). What do you guys think i could get for my swap & car??

How close are you to finishing your swap? You'll easily get at least $3k more if you get it running first. Looking around at other classifieds, the cheapest I've seen a finished 2JZ S14 is 12.5k.

[Black R]

Anybody running a 4" down pipe and exhaust?

I'm debating running 4" straight pipe all the way back.

ATP turbo has a 3" to 4" modular downpipe that could make this pretty easy:

4" Modular Downpipe with 3" V-Band : atpturbo.com

[kaking]

Originally Posted by Chronicle

How close are you to finishing your swap? You'll easily get at least $3k more if you get it running first. Looking around at other classifieds, the cheapest I've seen a finished 2JZ S14 is 12.5k.

Good point. All I really need to do is put the motor back in and get intercooler piping made. Everything else would be odds and ends, nothing major

[93egallmotor]

i picked up a usdm 2j water pump for my 1jzgte swap. do i still need the rear thermo housing too? or is a bolt on application with the jdm thermo housing. i know i need a pulley just curious if i need the back housing? thanks!

[ATLspeed]

Originally Posted by Black R

Anybody running a 4" down pipe and exhaust?

I'm debating running 4" straight pipe all the way back.

ATP turbo has a 3" to 4" modular downpipe that could make this pretty easy:

4" Modular Downpipe with 3" V-Band : atpturbo.com

I'm running a 4" exhaust with oval piping after the downpipe.

*Just buy the ebay 4" downpipe w/midpipe (got mine for $200-250 together).

[Black R]

ATLspeed, do you have any pics?

I was thinking 4" oval would make a lot of sense so the exhaust could be tucked up nicely for a low car.

[turbob16ef]

Im also going to be running 4in all the way back. Ive talked to a few people, said the ebay supra downpipe is a pretty good fit.
Ill be using the xspower 4in downpipe/midpipe. Be told have to mod the midpipe some.

[winter]

Never posted up on this but I bought a 1JZ earlier this year in March from Dallas JDM Motors. Got a great deal shipped. Just know it was GOOD. lol. Tore it down a bit and ordered stuff off Driftmotion like the gasket set to do a slight refurnish, ARP Studs, Precision 5831 T3 Turbo (I know, not a T4, but got a good deal on a brand new one), 550CC Supra 2JZGTE Injectors. Replaced broken things on the motor like the TPS and pulleys (Dallas JDM motors covered the pulleys).

Power goals are mild starting around modest above stock 350-400. I plan to get a 2J bottom end after this is done and assemble 1.5J when it comes time. Estimating completion around Feb 2014.

Haven't had much time to really mess with it because I'm working a lot.

- JZX90 1JZGTE
- R154 Transmission
- Manual ECU
- Driveshaft






Current Parts list
- ARP Head Studs
- New Gator Timing Belt
- USDM Supra 2JZGTE 550CC Injectors
- USDM Supra 2JZGTE Water Pump
- New OEM Crank Pulley (sent free w/ motor)
- Driftmotion Lightweight Pulleys (sent free w/ motor)
- Precision 5831 T3 Turbo
- Aeromotive FPR
- NEO AFC


Haven't decided on a clutch, unsure what to get. I want something that is usable and won't blow slave cylinders or do funny crank walks (Saw the ACT thing, that's scary).

[AS240]

Clutch masters clutches have an almost stock pedal feel. That's what I'll be using.
Good choice with Dallas jdm. I got my vvti 2j from him a few months ago. Zund is a cool dude. I drove up there and they compression tested it right in front of me.

[winter]

Originally Posted by AS240

Clutch masters clutches have an almost stock pedal feel. That's what I'll be using.
Good choice with Dallas jdm. I got my vvti 2j from him a few months ago. Zund is a cool dude. I drove up there and they compression tested it right in front of me.

He is a stand up guy. Love his positive attitude and referred a few friends to him. How much HP is the clutch masters one? I want something that will bite hard and react when clutch kicking as this will be mostly for my street/track build, but something that's not stupid where it's not drivable on the street.

[turbob16ef]

Just recieved my polished Titan cam gears, Titan billet tensioner, aem v2, aem 3.5 bar/ait sensor.

[Drink&Drift]

Originally Posted by BiG MiKE86

How much space do you have between the back of the cylinder head and the firewall?

cant remember, maybe 1-2 inches, its just barely enough to run the -6 Fuel lines between the firewall and the cylinder head though. if it was any closer it would be too close, and any further away, i don't think i would have room for my SPAL Slim 12" fans

this is really only the picture i have

[AS240]

Originally Posted by winter

He is a stand up guy. Love his positive attitude and referred a few friends to him. How much HP is the clutch masters one? I want something that will bite hard and react when clutch kicking as this will be mostly for my street/track build, but something that's not stupid where it's not drivable on the street.

I'm going to be running the FX500. My friend has it in his MK3 supra (R154) and it has a soft pedal feel compared to ACT and Competition (wont kill thrust bearings). Its really streetable but does chatter slightly at times. You can also get different pressure plate and disc options depending on if you want a more slipable streetable setup. Best bang for the buck without going with a twindisc. I have read too many horror stories on supraforums with southbend, SPEC and ACT clutches Clutchmasters.com - High Performance Clutch and Flywheel Systems
The cheapest dealer on this forum I have found it so far is importimage.

[winter]

Thanks man. Yeah, I was worried about replacing slave cylinders. Had to do that on my SR20 ACT 6 puck every like few months because it was so stuff it would blow the cylinder out and round off the edge.

[Black R]

*Knock on wood*

I've had the act clutch on my r154 + aristo gte swap since 2008 I think.

No issues so far...

[Chronicle]

Originally Posted by Black R

*Knock on wood*

I've had the act clutch on my aristo gte swap since 2008 I think.

No issues so far...

Which ACT setup do you have? From what I understand, the crank walking is caused by the tougher of the pressure plates they offer.

[Black R]

^ Sadly I have no idea.

I know it's held over 400whp and tons of drag strip and street abuse though...

The pedal doesn't feel that stiff...

I'm aware of the crank walk issues that are caused by super stiff pressure plates; but haven't had any problems yet.

Speaking of which: how hard is it to replace the crank thrust washers?

[240-S13]

Im new to 240sx's came from supras and recently got confused from all the different types of 240sx's and 180sx's soo... Will everything listed work for an s13 240sx?

[AS240]

Originally Posted by Black R

^ Sadly I have no idea.

Speaking of which: how hard is it to replace the crank thrust washers?

You have to pull out the crank...
The crank walk problem is almost eliminated by bypassing the clutch switch so you can start the engine without pushing in the clutch. If you push in a heavy clutch with the engine off, it tends to push out the remaining oil that was held between the the thrust bearings and the crank/block which causes a dry start for the thrust bearings and can eventually wear them down enough to cause failure.