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Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series.


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Old 12-09-2005, 01:14 AM   #61
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Just to add...

Z32 300ZX TT and B13 Sentra SE-R use the same temp sensor.

I checked.

So either one will work on redtop S13 SR20DET.
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Old 12-13-2005, 02:36 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbo_lover
i am not trying to disrupt this thread. If i am, sorry. But i do not want to start a topic for a simple question - - - > Do any of you know how much a base model 240sx fast back weighs with a SR20DET?
[ SORRY FOR THE IN-CONVIENCE ]
Thanks.

Hatch with:
*HICAS
*1/2 tank gas
*Full interior
*Power everything
*SR
!!weighed in at 2850lbs!!


Coupe with:
*Manual windows
*No interior
*30lbs wiring stripped from chasis
*1/2 tank of gas
*SR
!!weighed in at 2415lbs!!


these are my numbers, hatch was weighed in at a farm on a grain scale, so it pretty close. Coupe was weighed in on Longacre race scales at Beaverun Raceway.
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Old 01-15-2006, 07:51 AM   #63
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found somthing every sr owner needes http://www.zfever.com/catalog/produc...roducts_id=147
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Old 01-25-2006, 08:55 AM   #64
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This information is for you guys who are swapping SRs into your car. Please do yourself a huge favour and read this post BEFORE you finish the swap, as it will tell you what to look for before the motor is in the car. It's so much easier to fix stuff when the motor is out. Don't be cheap. At most it will cost you a few hundred bucks if you fix everything right the first time. If you're already spending thousands, don't cut corners. Fix it right the first time and save yourself the grief.

This is of course assuming you have a good clean chassis and a good motor that holds decent compression.

Things to look for while doing your swap:

* When the motor is out of your shell, take the time to clean up the engine bay. Fix any rust spots before it starts eating away the rest of the frame. It may take a little time, but your car will thank you.

* Tip from SR Owner's Club: If you have any aftermarket wiring, like an alarm or stereo equipment, make absolutely sure that your car can start with the stock engine, because you don't want to be chasing ghosts when the culprit is something aftermarket that you installed. Better yet, remove all that stuff and make sure your car can start. You can always reinstall them later on if you want.

* When the SR is out of the clip and sitting on an engine stand, take the time to replace every single rubber hose and belt on there. Rubber has a lifespan of about 5 years under perfect conditions. Less if it's out in the elements. Sometimes a hose or a belt may look perfect, but the rubber coating is just cosmetic. The rubber makes it look good, like dressing. The weaves under the rubber is what gives the belt strength and structural integrity. Usually SRs has been sitting in a yard somewhere for some time. So take the time to replace all the rubber parts.

* While you're replacing all the hoses, make sure you replace the hose clamps with high quality screw-on hose clamps. The factory spring clamps and screw-on clamps are notoriously hard to remove, and tend to break over time. It should only cost you a few bucks for the dozen or so clamps you'll need. While you're installing those clamps, think about the position of the screw once the motor is mounted. Make sure you can remove it at the angle you'll have once the motor is in since you can't work around the motor as well as when the motor is out. So orient the clamps accordingly.

* The heater hoses are notoriously prone to leaking. Replace them with new high-quality hoses when the motor is out. Same with the vacuum hoses. Sometimes a leaking vacuum hose will cause your car to run poorly.

* While the motor is out, it is a very good idea to rebuild your turbo. The SR is notorious for blowing the turbo exhaust inlet gasket, and it is very difficult to remove the turbo once the motor is in the car. It should only cost you a couple of runs to Wendy's to replace these gaskets. Make sure you use new mounting hardware, or at least clean up the old one on there. While it's out, check the turbo for shaft play as well.

* It is also a very good idea to do something about the turbo plumbing. People who sell turbos know that the SR has a problem with poor oil flow. That's why they stock T25/T28. If you have an S13 SR, follow the turbo coolant return line and see where it leads you. Now think about where that line is going to end up when the motor is mounted. You won't have too much space to work once the motor is in.

The best way is to reroute the turbo coolant return line to the water outlet going to the upper radiator hose. S14 and newer SRs water outlet has a tap for the return line. Get this waterneck if you can. mynismo.com can special order them for you from Japan. If you can get it, plug up this hard line in the back by either welding or by clamping a plug onto it. Just keep in mind that if anything breaks back there, you will have a hard time getting to it, especially if the motor is hot and you have big hands.

Now is a good time to install new braided lines. Taka Motorsports sells complete bolt-in kits you can use without having to worry about reusing the banjo bolts.

* When the motor is out of the chassis, you can work on the steering rack. You may want to install some steering rack spacers now since they are not accessible with the motor in.

* When you install the new motor, use new motor mounts if you can. They're not too hard to access once the motor is mounted, but chances are the mounts on your stock engine and the stock mounts on the SR are both done. You may have trouble accessing the bolts on the turbo side once the motor is in though.

* Another thing you may want to do is go through your stock wiring harness and figure out where everything is supposed to go. Get an FSM and label each harness. This will help you rewire the SR since you know exactly what's supposed to go where. If you have some extra harnesses you will know where they go so you don't have to worry. If you get a plug-and-play wiring harness, take the time and figure out where everything is supposed to go before you plug them in. This is probably the single hardest thing when it comes to swapping in the SR. Most people will mess up the wiring so badly since it's very confusing and they don't take the time to figure out what needs to go where. Of all the non-running SRs I have seen, probably all of them had wiring problems of some sort.

Last edited by g6civcx; 01-25-2006 at 09:25 AM..
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Old 01-25-2006, 10:35 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbo_lover
i am not trying to disrupt this thread. If i am, sorry. But i do not want to start a topic for a simple question - - - > Do any of you know how much a base model 240sx fast back weighs with a SR20DET?
While this was an inappropriate place to ask, I do think this qualifies as a frequently asked question (and one of frequent debate).

When both engines are fully dressed in completely stock form, the SR20DET weighs within a few pounds of the KA24E and KA24DE - close enough so as not to matter. The lighter block is offset by the weight of the turbocharger and intercooler.

It's a topic of debate because no one ever swaps a completely stock SR, and the weight of both engines will vary by installed accessories.

If it's of concern to you, your best bet is to weigh the car on racer's scales after the engine swap and plan your weight savings from there, because everyone's car and engine will be different.
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Old 01-26-2006, 04:35 PM   #66
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When working with heater hoses, be extremely careful because the barb/nipple on the heater core can be very brittle due to age, and they can break easily. If they break, you will have to replace the heater core (involves dropping the dash and disassembling the front half of the interior), or seal up the connection some other way.

When removing the hoses, it is best to use a hose remover (looks like pliers with rubber on the ends), or if you're not re-using the hoses, just cut them and carefully peel them off. Don't twist with pliers or you may break the nipples.

When installing new hoses, you can dab a drop of oil on the nipple to help the new hose slide on. Use high-quality hose clamps, and be absolutely sure not to overtighten!
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Old 02-26-2006, 10:27 AM   #67
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some intresting things about SR motors

blacktops have pistons, rod, crank capable of makeing 400whp

s15 tranny is a 6 speed built into the housing of the old 5 speed. 5th and 6th gear can't handle more power than a stock s15 motor 250hp flywheel.

so its been said here, dont think your gonna put the baddest motor on what you think is the sexiest tranny ever.

also intresting is fully built SR's can be limited by the VTC. RED TOPs with VTC are great for mild streetable build ups cause the vtc will give you lots of low end torque with out sacrificing high RPM HP. However, cams with a 11mm lift wont work unless you disable the vtc. also VTC will fall apart at the very high RPM (around or bellow 10,000rpm).

the BLACK TOP head vs. RED TOP head
the black top is a high port head
the red top is a low port head or what an engineer would call a tunned port
all this really means is most black tops will never NEED a port and polish
nissan thought makeing huge ports in the head was less restriction therefore more power on turbo motors. however, later realized optimizing volumetric effiency, through a tunned head and VTC, made more useable power ON STOCK SR setups.

if you are set on being the baddest mother fucker. build a blacktop with the biggest cam and biggest turbo you can find. and of course all the stuff that goes with it.


wow, thats my first post
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Old 02-26-2006, 09:44 PM   #68
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when you are talking about blacktops.. are you talking about s13 or s14/15. also, where did you get that info that blacktops have pistons, rods, and crank capable of 400hp. aren't s13 redtops capable of about 400hp on stock bottom end also.

and fyi, redtops dont have vtc unless you swapped in an s14/s15 blacktop head. s13 red/blacktops are almost essentially the same. also, iirc the awd gti-r sr20s have the best flowing heads of all the srs.
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Old 03-02-2006, 07:55 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LIVINXS
some intresting things about SR motors

s15 tranny is a 6 speed built into the housing of the old 5 speed. 5th and 6th gear can't handle more power than a stock s15 motor 250hp flywheel.
Totaly incorrect

6 speed box is totaly different (3 part case) , all the ratios are also different,
different flywheel, unsprung clutch.

the 5 and 6th gear thing, blitz ran a 400bhp s15 on the std box for some time without problems.

So why post incorrect information. (I have a s15 box and i know what i say is true)

C.
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Old 03-09-2006, 01:30 PM   #70
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fr pilot

yes, your right. S13 red tops didn't have vtc they are too old. let me clarify what has the nice rods. s13 blacktops and I'm pretty sure s14 black tops also have the 400hp rods. all red tops have the weaker rods. the s13 red top with a turbo has the same inferior rods as all the US SR's like B13 B14 and S14 SE-R. same as the rods in the jdm red top S14 S15

as for GTI-r head, yes they are the best and individual throttle bodies are also very sweet. very few people even know about that shit. people dont even know about the awd sr's since we dont have a version of it here. and even fewer spend the cash on it.

cookie

when you have 400hp in YOUR car tell me it wont break. your are believing what you read in a magazine. ask any drifter or drag racer. nissan 6speeds are shit. you can safely run about 100 more HP in the same car for the same application on a 5speed. hard launches at 400hp will blow your tranny. in a 5sp launch at 500hp will blow your tranny. and yes 5th and 6th are half the size of the gears they wish they were. I read it in SCC and there is even a picture of the 5 and 6 speed trannys cracked open side by side.
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Old 03-09-2006, 04:32 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LIVINXS
your are believing what you read in a magazine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LIVINXS
I read it in SCC
hmm, hypocrite much?

i believe there is stock longblock redtop making 570whp for about a year now....its on freshalloy if you dont believe me...
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Old 03-10-2006, 09:28 AM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SR_S14Zenki
hmm, hypocrite much?

i believe there is stock longblock redtop making 570whp for about a year now....its on freshalloy if you dont believe me...
578.6 to be exact, and running 10.34 in the 1/4
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Old 03-10-2006, 02:25 PM   #73
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I'll be at 400bhp soon enough , I'll go tell all the people i know that there 6 speed should have exploded when they got to 400bhp.

Please post the article it will be an interesting and probably not that infomative to read.

Might want to read this

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showpost.php...8&postcount=13

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Old 03-26-2006, 12:00 AM   #74
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let me tell you about S15...
-First of all, s15 tranny can be RELIABLE until 320-350HP, since there is one more set of gear for 6th gear is added, it should be weaker for sure, for 400HP+, it could hold but u are testing your luck, if u are a 6 speed lover like me, your best bet is to either stay under 350HP (which im doing) or get the strengthen 6 speed transmittion from NISMO for s15 only (approx. $3500-$4000).
-If you are doing a S15 swapping, make sure, and i said MAKE FUKIN SURE you got the rear differential of the S15, and be sure it a Spec R rear diff, because S15 Spec S has the different rear diff.
-For s15 engine swappin to s13, you would need a custom drive shaft coz the s15 drive shaft is longer than s13.
-Even though u got your engine, rear diff, and drive shaft, you gonna need a signal converter aka "black box" in order to have your speedometer, trip info, and VVT operate, even though, the car can still be drivable without it. and you wont have speed cut... :P

thas all i can remember for now. Thanks Ron of Motorsport Technique for teaching me all these useful info. you are my hero!
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Old 03-29-2006, 06:14 AM   #75
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you don't need a s15 diff when doing a swap, but the s15 diff is a better performer than the s13 or s14 diffs.

VVT does not require a speed input to work

C.
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Old 03-30-2006, 03:36 AM   #76
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Um.. No
The unique thing of S15 is the speed sensor is located at the rear differential, as the VVT need to go thru the ABS module (which require speed signal) in order to operate. nuff said...
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Old 04-01-2006, 08:34 AM   #77
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I got a reply from hybrid dynamics, it only made 460hp on pump gas in the real world your never gonna pay for that crazy race fuel on a dailly driver
from Jay:

The shortblock on that car was 100% original OEM Nissan, never torn apart. The head had a basic valve job and resurfacing done to it. That is all.
There was no portwork at all done to it. It had a cometic metal headgasket,
ARP headstuds, hks valve springs, HKS step 2 cams and greddy rocker arm
stoppers. That was the only things done to the engine. Like I said though,
the bottom end was 100% original, and honestly, wasn't even in the best of
shape. We've seen cleaner engines than this one was.

It had around 460 hp on pump gas at 18 PSI, and then the 570 was done on
VP114 race fuel.

Here is a picture of the motor in the car. You can see how clean the head
is from when we had the valve job and resurfacing done, and how filthy the
block still is.

http://www.hybridynamics.com/uploaded/2/IMG_1296.JPG

thanks!

jason
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Old 04-11-2006, 08:40 AM   #78
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SR install tip

Hey I finally dropped the sr20 in this weekend. What a [email protected] The engine droped just fine into the engine bay no sweat. It took maybe 5min. But, I was an 2 inches off on both motor mounts. The engine would just not go back far enough. So here is what I ended up doing. I went on

http://www.nissanperformancemag.com/installs/240sr/
http://www.superstreetonline.com/howto/3430/
http://www.srswap.com/faq/index.asp#prepengine
I even got this issue of "Drifting" which was the best!

Anyway they give you the steps about moving the heater hoses from going to the drivers side and point the to the passenger side. You have to do this BEFORE you drop the engine. Because like I said its tight! Well those hoses did not give enough room to push the motor back. So, here is my tip. You have to hoses. #1 hose is an "L" shape that you turn 180 deg. The #2 hose is connected to a hard line that run along the back of the head. Everyone says to arrange the hose so it is on the hard line and going back to the passenger side. But, that hard line is in the way of the head moving far enough into the firewall. So I cut the hard line right at the back of the head. So now on my block I have 2 hard lines coming out at the same length and the are both only a couple of inches from the heater hose outlet from the firewall.

I hope this helps.
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Old 05-03-2006, 02:11 AM   #79
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OEM Nissan part numbers for redtop SR20det belts:

Alternator:
11720-52F00

Power Steering:
11720-59S01
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Old 05-11-2006, 09:38 PM   #80
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anyone have any literature or wiring diagrams for an s14 sr20det swap in an s14 chassis?

thanks
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Old 05-29-2006, 07:34 PM   #81
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im not sure if theres been a post about the TPS, but im gettting NO power at all out of the ECU to my TPS... i have no idea why ive traced everything back its all good. help plz
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Old 05-30-2006, 05:59 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike_fernandes
wow.. i think this is my first post ever.

This info is for the S14 blacktop motor, it's taken right out of the service manual. hope this helps some of you.


Engine Oil: (with filter change): 3 1/4 qt (3.7 L)
(w/o filter change): 3 1/8 qt (3.5 L)

Cooling System (including resevoir): 5 1/2 qt (6.2 L)

Manual Transmission: *GL-4* 4 1/4 pt (2.4 L)
Differential carrier gear oil: *GL-5* 3 1/8 pt (1.8 L)

Automatic Transmission: 7 qt (7.9 L)

Power steering 3/4 qt (0.9 L)

edit: if anyone doesnt believe this I can back it up with a pic of the page from the manual, but as you can tell I'm new and don't know how to upload pics yet... unless theres someone that can host them for me.
is this the same with the s13 sr?
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Old 06-28-2006, 06:17 PM   #83
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The Megan Turbo Elbow for the s13 redtop has a bigger hole for the O2 sensor. I used the 95 300zx O2 sensor since it is fatter and it works fine. The other one posted on the first page is the same size as the stock one, it will work fine if you use the stock turbo elbow
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Old 06-29-2006, 08:58 PM   #84
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R32 Skyline GTR rear diff are Nismo 2way lsd. R200 and direct drop in for 240sx. They run about 300 bucks online.
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Old 07-11-2006, 03:21 PM   #85
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s14 help me get pass the government!!

yo i just did a rhd & sr swap on my s14 ,you guys said it was pretty imposible but it got done .Now im trying to find out how to get rid of my govern.cant go past 180km= 120mph. some one said you have to cut a wire off of the ecu..but they didnt know the color ..HELP!!
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Old 07-11-2006, 03:47 PM   #86
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180 is 115 not 120 buddy and this is the faq"s no asking shit in here.
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Old 07-15-2006, 02:20 PM   #87
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hey does anyone know these cam part numbers and what they mean. BA39UB AND AA291B, ALSO BA23RB AND AA13KD.
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Old 07-15-2006, 02:27 PM   #88
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Cool need help with which cams to use

hey does anyone know these cam part numbers and what they mean. BA39UB AND AA291B, ALSO BA23RB AND AA13KD. i am switching out sr20det heads and i noticed that the cam numbers on my original motor are ba23rb and aa13kd. the other head that i am going to install has cam numbers ba39ub and aa291b. i need to know which ones are the better cams
please help asap
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Old 08-11-2006, 12:57 PM   #89
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Jeff, No offense but youre here to help, and no question is a stupid one no matter ho many times a newbie asks. I put my own SR20DET Blacktop in my Automatic Coupe S13 without the help of Fouroms and you. This is informationsl but you have the knowledge to share it with ebveryone. If youre sick of sharing then stop posting so many freaking posts. get a life n go help people for real money in the real world. Door Knob.
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Old 08-21-2006, 12:53 AM   #90
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is there anyway to make an s14 sr head work on a s13 sr block ? i have seen write ups on fresh alloy on different oil gallies in the front of the block (s14 block has an extra oil galley for VTC) that makes it impossible...could you run an oil feed line to the vtc to make it work kinda like mating a non-v-tech honda motor with a v-tech head?
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