SR Owners... More HP Easy Mod... Catch Can Setup

[slider2828]

Originally Posted by MPIracing

actually I don't know how to upload a photo on here...lol


been following this thread for years, love it, Here is what I did way back when, I had major issues on the track days with over flowing oil, streets was fine, yet changed the catch can to what you guys developed I only drilled 8 or so holes under the fitting welded in. and now on the track days, I don't have more than a tea spoon of oil in there after the whole day. just going for a new turbo set up now, gxt2867r on the sr, thanks again from the land of Oz!

Glad it was helpful!

Just use imgur.com and upload a photo there and copy the picture URL back here... only free way to do it nowadays

[MPIracing]

[e30gangsta]

Question can I run the lines in the configuration of the red lines? Or should I keep it as is to help keep the oil in the head under hard cornering?

Read the entire thread but it's still unclear to me. Thank you for your help.

[slider2828]

The reason we ran that back line vertically is because we don't want to pick up oil, technically just want to remove crank pressure...

If you use the front line, its going pull oil under load and cornering.... You don't want to be doing that...

[inopsey]

interesting thread, it seems that the general consensus is to run the pcv valve as nissan intended but a mazworx engine comes with a custom valve cover that does not allow a pcv valve to be installed, there is only a male -10 an fitting. combine that with the facts in this thread that there is a restictor in the pcv valve line, begs the question how much crankcase ventilation/vacuum does the pcv valve actually provide at idle or mid throttle? and is lowering the knock threshold (by decreasing the octane) for the engine by polluting the intake manifold with oil (by running the pcv valve) of any actual benefit to the engine longevity or efficency ?

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by inopsey

interesting thread, it seems that the general consensus is to run the pcv valve as nissan intended but a mazworx engine comes with a custom valve cover that does not allow a pcv valve to be installed, there is only a male -10 an fitting. combine that with the facts in this thread that there is a restictor in the pcv valve line, begs the question how much crankcase ventilation/vacuum does the pcv valve actually provide at idle or mid throttle? and is lowering the knock threshold (by decreasing the octane) for the engine by polluting the intake manifold with oil (by running the pcv valve) of any actual benefit to the engine longevity or efficency ?

The PCV valve should only be open at cruising where there is vacuum in the intake manifold. At cruising the octane doesn?t matter. The only time you should be concerned about that is when the PCV system is faulty and allowing the engine to pull/push a lot of oil into the intake manifold. You can still run a pcv valve, Radium makes an aftermarket -10 one.


Kingtalon has actually convinced me that a proper PCV system does belong on everything but a racecar with dry sump oiling.

[slider2828]

I tried not to run a pcv.... I am on a linkecu g4x with very capable tuner. The idle was unstable. I tried everything, including replacing iacv, new tps, coolant sensors, everything that could affect an unstable idle.... In the end, I added by a pcv and it idled 100% fine....

we even bumped idle to 1100 rpm and all the tricks in the book...

I run a radium fuel rail, so all the pcv on the intake side is gone. I run a -10 AN along with the front valve cover (S13/14 hybrid cover) with PCV in to a Y right before a radium large Air / Oil separator with the drain plug...

At the bottom its pure water.... its nutz how much water is in an idling engine. Keep in my this is 90% track car and my only street driving is to the alignment / tuner and that is it.....

Either way a proper PCV is the way to go.... But like poor180sx said, Radium just released -10 pcv swivel. 6 months too late for me :/

[inopsey]

Originally Posted by slider2828

I tried not to run a pcv.... I am on a linkecu g4x with very capable tuner. The idle was unstable. I tried everything, including replacing iacv, new tps, coolant sensors, everything that could affect an unstable idle.... In the end, I added by a pcv and it idled 100% fine....

we even bumped idle to 1100 rpm and all the tricks in the book...

I run a radium fuel rail, so all the pcv on the intake side is gone. I run a -10 AN along with the front valve cover (S13/14 hybrid cover) with PCV in to a Y right before a radium large Air / Oil separator with the drain plug...

At the bottom its pure water.... its nutz how much water is in an idling engine. Keep in my this is 90% track car and my only street driving is to the alignment / tuner and that is it.....

Either way a proper PCV is the way to go.... But like poor180sx said, Radium just released -10 pcv swivel. 6 months too late for me :/

what kind of idle issue did you have? low vaccum or just stumbling/missing?

[slider2828]

Originally Posted by inopsey

what kind of idle issue did you have? low vaccum or just stumbling/missing?

I have a velocity element manifold and a radium fuel rail so i dont have vacuum on the rail any more. Originally the pvc was replaced with a radium swivel fitting and piped Yed into my catch then into back intake. No mafs, all on map via link.

We tried everything on idle. 1100 rpm, raise warmup fuel trim, reduce fuel trim, change idle timing, replace iacv with genuine new one... all of that did not work. There was constant surging and buckling on idle.

Pissed me off so bad. I was like f...it and put a check valve after the Y before the catch. BAM idle at 950 rpm, steady. I am on hks step3 264/272 cams with reduced overlap. 0 changes to anything except added PCV.

https://vargasturbo.com/product/vtt-...=&gad_source=1

I used -10 barb cause my vacuum lines are pushlock and pretty big