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Old 11-19-2011, 11:24 AM   #8581
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PLEASE HELP
i am doing a wire tuck on my s13 and was going to follow this http://zilvia.net/f/chat/407974-tuck...like-baws.html
but i have this piece of metal on my s13 (its on the drivers side too) that the other one doesn't have. am i suppose to cut that off as well?
http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/...in_s13/cut.jpg

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Old 11-19-2011, 02:38 PM   #8582
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Ok, I've been searching and searching. Looked on rimtuck and am stuck between two tire sizes.

Heres what I'm looking at:

RUCA
Fortune Auto Coils
17x9+15 all around
S13 Hatch

No fender mods yet, but plan to roll front and rear as needed. Don't plan to slam rediculous low, but obviously want no fender gap (tuck tiny bit of tire)

I see alot of people run something close to 215/40r17, but can i get away with a 225/40r17 all the way around or even a 225/45? The wheel size and tire threads have much more aggressive fitment than what sizes I have, so I thought I might ask here first..
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Old 11-19-2011, 02:52 PM   #8583
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sr20det expert needed

This is my first time working with an SR

A headgasket blew a while back and had a water/oil mix issue. Got a new headgasket, got the heads rebuilt and resurfaced, bolted down w/arp head studs. I still have a water/oil mix issue. Now to the question:

Is this happening because I didn't resurface the block since its also aluminum?
Or is this a result of a cracked water jacket? I'm thinking of just getting another block.
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Old 11-19-2011, 04:10 PM   #8584
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiboy002 View Post
I do not, but i have access to one
only problem is its at my work and i don't have an air compressor at home....................

i was thinking of gravity bleeding, the only reason i ask now is cause i have 1L of nice brake fluid and 2L of valvoline off the shelf fluid, so if 1L is not enough i'll wait till next year to buy more
Gravity bleed will work without a dou bt, just remember to keep the bleeder hose submerged in the larger can when you do it.

With that said, be sure that if you are going to run a different fluid that you have some and or it's easily accesible in the event you need to top it off. Also make sure it can 'play well' with other fluids.


Quote:
Originally Posted by chiboy002 View Post
i believe late model s14, kouki i think, came with bigger front calipers and stock rear. that might be what they meant, but z32 is a completely different mounting style than s14 and won't accept normal s14 pads
S14K in japan was only s14 IIRC to have larger calipers.
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Old 11-19-2011, 05:28 PM   #8585
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will a ka24de exhaust manifold bolt onto a ka24e?
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Old 11-19-2011, 05:49 PM   #8586
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timinthehood View Post
will a ka24de exhaust manifold bolt onto a ka24e?
not at all
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Old 11-19-2011, 07:03 PM   #8587
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This bumper and skirts or kit?!?

Search was no help
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Old 11-19-2011, 08:05 PM   #8588
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codyace View Post
Gravity bleed will work without a doubt, just remember to keep the bleeder hose submerged in the larger can when you do it.

With that said, be sure that if you are going to run a different fluid that you have some and or it's easily accesible in the event you need to top it off. Also make sure it can 'play well' with other fluids.
Yeah I'm going to buy extra soon as winter passes, i keep stock in my garage anyways. thank you for the tip, i didn't know it needed to be submerged, haha.
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Old 11-19-2011, 08:43 PM   #8589
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Ok... I have searched but can't find the answer I'm looking for, I've asked friends but I'm hearing different things... (Can I run 15mm bolt on spacers with battles?). I have heard I'm gonna have to cut my studs I've heard they fit fine... Someone even told me to run a 5mm slip on between the hub and 15mm bolt on to avoid cutting studs? I'm all assed up now and don't know what to do-spacers will be here Monday any advice?
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Old 11-20-2011, 02:54 AM   #8590
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no offense dude but thats a perfect screen name.

Battles + 15mm slip on + stock studs = your golden.

What is this stud cutting nonsense?
How would that EVER be beneficial?
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Old 11-20-2011, 03:15 AM   #8591
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nismoracingsx View Post
Ok, I've been searching and searching. Looked on rimtuck and am stuck between two tire sizes.

Heres what I'm looking at:

RUCA
Fortune Auto Coils
17x9+15 all around
S13 Hatch

No fender mods yet, but plan to roll front and rear as needed. Don't plan to slam rediculous low, but obviously want no fender gap (tuck tiny bit of tire)

I see alot of people run something close to 215/40r17, but can i get away with a 225/40r17 all the way around or even a 225/45? The wheel size and tire threads have much more aggressive fitment than what sizes I have, so I thought I might ask here first..
225/40/17 are hard to come by if you're on a budget. Just run 215/40/17 all around or 215/40/17 front and 215/45/17 back.
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Old 11-20-2011, 11:59 AM   #8592
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevmeistah21 View Post
225/40/17 are hard to come by if you're on a budget. Just run 215/40/17 all around or 215/40/17 front and 215/45/17 back.
215/40/17 federals = 225/40/17 lol
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Old 11-20-2011, 12:42 PM   #8593
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WakeBHR View Post
no offense dude but thats a perfect screen name.

Battles + 15mm slip on + stock studs = your golden.

What is this stud cutting nonsense?
How would that EVER be beneficial?


there not slip ons bud-I forgot about the all the douch fuck Internet tough guys on this forum who sit In front their computer screen all day waiting to get stupid with someone when half of you shit dicks have probably NEVER got in someone's (face) with an opinion, now I'm not offended just pointing that out "no offense" let me clarify my situation. The adapters I ordered are bolt on... They bolt onto my hub and the wheels bolt onto the adapter, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about-my question is... Will my studs be longer than the adapter? If so that will restrict the wheel from sitting flush with it, leaving me in a situation where I would cut them correct? I have looked at the battles and there are no slots for this, like I have seen on other wheels. If this is the case is there a simple NON SARCASTIC solution? Now fire away
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Old 11-20-2011, 05:06 PM   #8594
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I'm having a problem at lower rpm's getting much power, the car jerks and stutters some times. it almost sounds like its misfiring. if anyone has any advice that would be great
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Old 11-20-2011, 05:09 PM   #8595
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Can someone post a picture of what the A/T pilot bearing looks like for a ka? I'm doing a five speed swap and want to know what to remove to install the manual pilot bearing.
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Old 11-20-2011, 06:32 PM   #8596
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I just recently bought a SR20DET for my 1991 240sx threw my local performance shop. When it comes in It will be stand for a couple of months while i replace and upgrade some parts.

I've made a whole spreadsheet of my engine rebuild and this is the maintenance part of it. Here is the list and if you feel like some I should add something please let me know. I've done research and research and I would just like to know if I'm missing something. Thanks

Dont mind the prices, I have sourced parts from 3 different websites and i just copied from my spreadsheet.

Everything is OEM
Maintenance Parts
Full Rebuild Gasket Kit OEM $148
OEM Nissan Thermostat $22.18
S13 SR20DET Timing Chain Kit(w/water pump) $325
OEM SR20DET PCV valve $12
OEM SR20DET OIL PAN $84.00
Complete Belt Set for Nissan SR20DET OEM $59.99
300zx Fuel Filter Nissan SR20DET $19.99
NGK Iridium Spark Plug $39.99
NISMO Motor and Tranny Mounts $249.99
WIRING SPECIALTIES HARNESS $399.99
OEM SR20DET OIL FILTER $18.99
OEM Front Cover Oil Pump Assembly $239.99
*ISIS Radiator Cooling Package $299.99

So if you think i should add anything to my "Maintenance" parts. Please let me know.

Parts came from
Z1
Courtesynissanparts
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Old 11-20-2011, 06:49 PM   #8597
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oOI WEST IOo View Post
I'm having a problem at lower rpm's getting much power, the car jerks and stutters some times. it almost sounds like its misfiring. if anyone has any advice that would be great
i know what you kinda mean, i had something similar happen to me a while back, i changed the plugs/wires and the car ran perfect after, you could check your plugs if you haven't already, my best guess , but then again it could be something else.
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Old 11-20-2011, 09:08 PM   #8598
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Anyone name this front bumper or kit?
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Old 11-20-2011, 09:52 PM   #8599
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wetawded87 View Post


there not slip ons bud-I forgot about the all the douch fuck Internet tough guys on this forum who sit In front their computer screen all day waiting to get stupid with someone when half of you shit dicks have probably NEVER got in someone's (face) with an opinion, now I'm not offended just pointing that out "no offense" let me clarify my situation. The adapters I ordered are bolt on... They bolt onto my hub and the wheels bolt onto the adapter, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about-my question is... Will my studs be longer than the adapter? If so that will restrict the wheel from sitting flush with it, leaving me in a situation where I would cut them correct? I have looked at the battles and there are no slots for this, like I have seen on other wheels. If this is the case is there a simple NON SARCASTIC solution? Now fire away
wow dude read your own sig......
Sorry for calling you retarded when you labeled yourself that with a screen name. In no way, shape, or form, did I act tough or call you out.

To answer your stupid ass question, NO
Looks like theres 2 sets if holes, the studs in the spacers should fit into the second set of holes.
Have fun with the rest of your stay on the internet.
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Old 11-20-2011, 10:12 PM   #8600
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WakeBHR View Post
Looks like theres 2 sets if holes, the studs in the spacers should fit into the second set of holes.
To add, some wheels have actual slots on the back of the disk for studs to fit into if you have spacers
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Old 11-20-2011, 10:19 PM   #8601
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Your a fucking idiot... That's two different lug patterns. Someone clearly don't work on their own shit..... And the battles don't have the slots : / that's why I'm having this problem to begin with.
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Old 11-20-2011, 10:22 PM   #8602
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wetawded87 View Post
Your a fucking idiot... That's two different lug patterns. Someone clearly don't work on their own shit..... And the battles don't have the slots : / that's why I'm having this problem to begin with.
" RELAX BITCHES-IT'S THE FUCKIN INTERNET"

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Old 11-20-2011, 11:35 PM   #8603
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Quote:
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Your a fucking idiot... That's two different lug patterns. Someone clearly don't work on their own shit..... And the battles don't have the slots : / that's why I'm having this problem to begin with.
You're a fucking moron. The second set of holes isn't a different lug pattern. They're there for "weight savings" or whatever the fuck. They aren't tapered, so clearly not meant for lug nuts. People run fucking spacers on battles all the time, and seem to not have to cut lug studs or whatever. That's the dumbest shit I've ever heard.

Edit: If you're gonna cry that "Zilvia is full of internet douche bag tough guys" get the fuck out and go use Google or NICO.
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Old 11-20-2011, 11:45 PM   #8604
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Its not the dumbest thing IVE ever heard.
I have battles and PSM 15mm bolt on spacers.
When the wheel goes on the OEM studs are too long and hit the back of the battle and causes it to not bold down correctly.
You can physically see the stud hitting the back of the wheel through the "weight savings" holes.

Dont be stupid and cut your studs...
What i did was put the slip on 5mm on, then bolted down the 15 on top of it. Which made less of the stud stick out, letting the wheel go on correctly.
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Old 11-20-2011, 11:54 PM   #8605
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Thank you lukass-this is all I wanted to know man, someone told me to do that with the 5mm but it sounded a little sketchy... I'll give it a shot and go back to lurking now since ppl here can't share correct info without being bitches.
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Old 11-21-2011, 12:03 AM   #8606
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You're welcome.

I don't have any problems with the 15mm on top of the 5mm.
Both are Parts Shop Max spacers.

No vibrations in excess of 90mph. But I cannot speak for any other spacer.
Good luck.
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Old 11-21-2011, 12:27 AM   #8607
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Quote:
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Dont be stupid and cut your studs...
What i did was put the slip on 5mm on, then bolted down the 15 on top of it. Which made less of the stud stick out, letting the wheel go on correctly.
instead of being ghetto why don't you just buy 20mm spacers?
now THAT is the stupidest shit i've read
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Old 11-21-2011, 12:52 AM   #8608
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiboy002 View Post
instead of being ghetto why don't you just buy 20mm spacers?
now THAT is the stupidest shit i've read
Don't be so quick to bash dude, he said he's got powered by max spacers. For those who don't know about those spacers they come in 2 pieces. You can either remove the 5mm, or leave it on.





Quote:
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This is my first time working with an SR

A headgasket blew a while back and had a water/oil mix issue. Got a new headgasket, got the heads rebuilt and resurfaced, bolted down w/arp head studs. I still have a water/oil mix issue. Now to the question:

Is this happening because I didn't resurface the block since its also aluminum?
Or is this a result of a cracked water jacket? I'm thinking of just getting another block.
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Old 11-21-2011, 03:38 AM   #8609
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Anyone have pics or rock yellow bulbs in the high beams of their s14? I want to see some pics.
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Old 11-21-2011, 01:48 PM   #8610
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hey okay, should my distributer be centered or should the timing be more advanced or retarded? mine was full retard for as long as ive swapped this engine in but what makes more power on a stock ka? and not make it detonate or anything else bad happen?
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