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Old 11-19-2020, 07:36 PM   #1
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s13 sr20det fuel/injector issue

I'm very ashamed of making this thread, maybe I'm loosing my touch. Ive had this sr for years! It ran really good no issue prior this. I did the swap my self.

One of my injectors went out over the weekend. I checked voltage to the plugs and knew It was the injector. I ordered a 370cc 300zx tt injector, I received it today. I did not use new orings. I put the injector on and now the car doesn't start. It cranks all day, maybe some firing up for a sec then cranks.

What in the world? There is no fuel leaks, no fuel coming out from the rail. I did make the mistake the leave the key on while I was pulling the injector and a bunch of fuel dumped in the rail. Could that be it?

Orange cable in the ecu plug has power only when the switch is on, so that's good.
there is power to all plugs, there is fuel.

Any ideas? Im like in shock that I cant figure this out lol

This a s13 sr20det. Mostly stock. Help
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Old 11-20-2020, 02:14 AM   #2
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If you dumped a bunch of fuel into the cylinder the first time you spun it over you might want to change your oil.

Did you disconnect the fuel pump relay fuse or anything?
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Old 11-20-2020, 04:35 PM   #3
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did you disconnect the fuel lines? easy to get em backwards too...
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Old 11-20-2020, 05:31 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jedi03 View Post
did you disconnect the fuel lines? easy to get em backwards too...

I never disconnected the fuel lines, the car was running like a pro before the injector problem.

I replaced the fuel injector, pulled all the plugs, they smelled like fuel, cleaned them up really good.

checked for spark, at first it looked like there wasn't any, then I disconnected the ignited plugged back and there was spark.

Put everything back together and now the car runs, it runs like shit and there is FUEL SPEWING from the exhaust manifold.

Thoughts?
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Old 11-20-2020, 05:59 PM   #5
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i just pulled out my fuel rail, I primed the fuel pump on ignition on and there is no fuel coming out so O rings are good.
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Old 11-20-2020, 06:13 PM   #6
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Crank the car with the rail off and check the spray pattern from the new injector to the orignals

And where did u get the replacement injector? Is it oem, new, used, ebay?
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Old 11-21-2020, 02:35 PM   #7
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I tested the PTU and it failed the continuity test. I ordered a replacement. Hopefully, this fixes the issues.
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Old 11-21-2020, 02:36 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S14rebuild View Post
Crank the car with the rail off and check the spray pattern from the new injector to the orignals

And where did u get the replacement injector? Is it oem, new, used, ebay?
I ordered the injector from Concept Z, it is a Hitachi 370cc injector.
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Old 11-22-2020, 04:21 PM   #9
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I have replaced the ignitor, the car fired right up!

I drained the old oil that was flooded with gas and put fresh oil and a filter.

I'm not getting this horrible sound. Is this a knock? a valve? lifter? This car was running great no issue whatsoever, but again, I only drive it a few times a year.


Pls let me know:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KQ17...f7BYPlwUy9GmgU
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Old 11-22-2020, 06:11 PM   #10
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That sounds like lifter to me.
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Old 11-23-2020, 07:29 AM   #11
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just to make sure, pick up a mechanics stethoscope, 5 bucks at harbor freight. Poke around with that to pinpoint the location.

https://www.harborfreight.com/mechan...SABEgLWiPD_BwE
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Old 11-23-2020, 12:28 PM   #12
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Quote:
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just to make sure, pick up a mechanics stethoscope, 5 bucks at harbor freight. Pock around with that to pinpoint the location.

https://www.harborfreight.com/mechan...SABEgLWiPD_BwE

I think I bent a valve because of the fuel and hydrolocking, I'm pulling the head out to inspect.
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Old 11-23-2020, 01:16 PM   #13
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Quote:
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That sounds like lifter to me.
did a compression test, 120, 120, 115, 105. FYI the engine was cold hence to cold numbers.


I think there is a problem with cylinder four. Perhaps a valve
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Old 11-23-2020, 01:42 PM   #14
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Quote:
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just to make sure, pick up a mechanics stethoscope, 5 bucks at harbor freight. Pock around with that to pinpoint the location.

https://www.harborfreight.com/mechan...SABEgLWiPD_BwE
pulling the head now as we speak to inspect
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Old 11-24-2020, 04:24 AM   #15
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You should have done a power balance test before pulling the head. Your sound problem is under the valve cover. Since you have the head off, might as well rebuild??!
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Old 11-24-2020, 02:31 PM   #16
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Quote:
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You should have done a power balance test before pulling the head. Your sound problem is under the valve cover. Since you have the head off, might as well rebuild??!
Everything under the valve cover looked good, nothing broken or missing. I'm gonna see if I can get away with just replacing whatever needs to be replaced on the head and don't touch the block.

I have arp studs on the head and they are being a royal pain to loosen them up. Im afraid of stripping them.
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Old 11-24-2020, 02:50 PM   #17
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Did u pull the lifters n see if one is collapsible?
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Old 11-24-2020, 05:27 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsastr_clan View Post
Everything under the valve cover looked good, nothing broken or missing. I'm gonna see if I can get away with just replacing whatever needs to be replaced on the head and don't touch the block.

I have arp studs on the head and they are being a royal pain to loosen them up. Im afraid of stripping them.
I'm messing with the lifters now. I just pulled the head, valves look good but I think that I just found a new issue. Am I screwed? detonation? Pls watch this video, if anyone can chip in.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bydJ...bqvhr_1AhjYlPM
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Old 11-24-2020, 05:32 PM   #19
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Someone was not kind to that engine....lots of boost and no tuning/fuel....

Its time for a rebuild.

This still doesnt explain the valve train noise

Lifters-when u press down on them they shouldnt move at all. Should not beable to squeeze them, no play
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Old 11-25-2020, 03:35 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S14rebuild View Post
Someone was not kind to that engine....lots of boost and no tuning/fuel....

Its time for a rebuild.

This still doesnt explain the valve train noise

Lifters-when u press down on them they shouldnt move at all. Should not beable to squeeze them, no play
You are right, I'm pulling the block out and doing the bearings and pistons. I've never done this. But I fee confident, I'm just not familiar with setting time. Do you happen to know about any write ups?

And, have you ever pull the engine out without taking the transmission. I have always pulled both. But since the head is out along with the intake and exhaust manifold, it would be so easy to get the block out.


Has anyone done? How hard was it to put the engine back in?

Last edited by dsastr_clan; 11-25-2020 at 04:33 PM..
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Old 11-25-2020, 05:25 PM   #21
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Just pull it with the trans attached...it will alot easier to reinstall it for u, then tryn to line up the input shaft.

As for a rebuild..... download the sr20 fsm. Please! Follow it to the T. Keep everything as clean as possiable. Your gonna have to invest in good tools...torque wrench and calipers to measure bearings and clearences! You can just buy parts, slap together and good togo. Taking the time and doing it right is everything. And what ever you planned out to spend(you know parts list) times it by 4!!


Good look
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Old 11-25-2020, 06:08 PM   #22
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https://forums.nicoclub.com/diy-rebu...t-t309576.html

I’ve used this guide twice with no problems whatsoever
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Old 11-26-2020, 05:33 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsastr_clan View Post
You are right, I'm pulling the block out and doing the bearings and pistons. I've never done this. But I fee confident, I'm just not familiar with setting time. Do you happen to know about any write ups?

And, have you ever pull the engine out without taking the transmission. I have always pulled both. But since the head is out along with the intake and exhaust manifold, it would be so easy to get the block out.

Has anyone done? How hard was it to put the engine back in?
This is gonna be good

Micrometers too while you're at it.

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Old 11-27-2020, 07:27 PM   #24
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This is gonna be good

Micrometers too while you're at it.

took the motor out no tranny, I may have to pull the tranny later when I put it back in. Whoknows!

but, all of the sudden I'm building this sr i guess! never done anything like this before, one thing led to the other.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_RSZ...lqZs8MmvaDx-q0
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Old 11-27-2020, 07:42 PM   #25
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https://forums.nicoclub.com/diy-rebu...t-t309576.html

I?ve used this guide twice with no problems whatsoever
Thank you so much for the guide this is gonna help me out so much!
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Old 11-27-2020, 07:43 PM   #26
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Just pull it with the trans attached...it will alot easier to reinstall it for u, then tryn to line up the input shaft.

As for a rebuild..... download the sr20 fsm. Please! Follow it to the T. Keep everything as clean as possiable. Your gonna have to invest in good tools...torque wrench and calipers to measure bearings and clearences! You can just buy parts, slap together and good togo. Taking the time and doing it right is everything. And what ever you planned out to spend(you know parts list) times it by 4!!


Good look


i did just the motor only for now..... something tells me that Im gonna need to bring the tranny down at some point.
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Old 11-28-2020, 07:03 AM   #27
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Pay very close attention to taken the motor apart. ALL the internals are assembled a certain way.

Cam caps have a specific spot they go, side there on and direction they face. Same goes for main and rod caps.

All parts need tobe free of contaminants. Need to measure EVERYTHING, check for proper clearance and tolerance. If you do not, ur just tearing money up.


Sr20 are a simple engine to disassemble and rebuild but it needs tobe done 100% correct. Not 80% or 95% 100% to be done right
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Old 11-30-2020, 01:28 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S14rebuild View Post
Pay very close attention to taken the motor apart. ALL the internals are assembled a certain way.

Cam caps have a specific spot they go, side there on and direction they face. Same goes for main and rod caps.

All parts need tobe free of contaminants. Need to measure EVERYTHING, check for proper clearance and tolerance. If you do not, ur just tearing money up.


Sr20 are a simple engine to disassemble and rebuild but it needs tobe done 100% correct. Not 80% or 95% 100% to be done right

I 100% agree! I'm gonna take the block to a shop for a honing( well for an inspection) What are the chances that I may need oversize pistons? Should I wait for the shop to tell me? Do you always need oversize pistons when you take the block out for a honing?
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Old 11-30-2020, 01:55 PM   #29
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Id say 100% chance ur need to bore over... with the det. Marks on the pistons the wall clearences cant be that good.

Make sure if you do bore the cylinders u have ur arp studs and washers and a torque plate must be used. If the machine shop says other wise......use a difrent machine shop.
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Old 11-30-2020, 02:03 PM   #30
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Quote:
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I 100% agree! I'm gonna take the block to a shop for a honing( well for an inspection) What are the chances that I may need oversize pistons? Should I wait for the shop to tell me? Do you always need oversize pistons when you take the block out for a honing?
no. if the cylinder bores are scored, then the bores may be able to be cleaned up with just a hone, OR they may need to be machined. the machine shop will be able to tell you after they clean the block and bores.

if they are just honed, you will most likely need new piston rings, and to perform the piston ring gap procedure, to make sure the gap matches the factory recommended spec

if the bores are machined, THEN you will need oversize pistons, and those pistons should come with new rings. you will still need to make sure the new rings have the correct gap, according to the piston manufacturers recommended spec.
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