Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[Reece]

Whenever I turn left, there is a loud creaking noise coming from the front end on the driver side. It does that when I turn right too, but it's not as bad. It happened while I was drifting this weekend (On a track, wasn't being stupid on the street), on sunday. The course had lots of elevation changes, and the driver wheel was lifted off the ground slightly on one run I am thinking and then when it touched back down the car started sliding like crap, the noise started, and I noticed my driver side fender is now super damaged, somehow. What could that be? I'm honestly thinking pillow mount on that coilover. Could that be it?

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by Reece

Whenever I turn left, there is a loud creaking noise coming from the front end on the driver side. It does that when I turn right too, but it's not as bad. It happened while I was drifting this weekend (On a track, wasn't being stupid on the street), on sunday. The course had lots of elevation changes, and the driver wheel was lifted off the ground slightly on one run I am thinking and then when it touched back down the car started sliding like crap, the noise started, and I noticed my driver side fender is now super damaged, somehow. What could that be? I'm honestly thinking pillow mount on that coilover. Could that be it?

Sounds like it.

[yetijeff]

Originally Posted by S14DB

Just the cometic that has some anal retentive(viton) coating on it that needs mirror smooth.

So what would be a decent method to getting that finish? Because mines def not mirror smooth and cometic seems to be the only company that makes a gasket thick enough to work...

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

The viton coating is what makes cometic gaskets able to be torqued down, then walked away from. Other gaskets, you have to come back after an hours worth of driving and torque them down again. Cometic, torque it once, walk away.
I use them exclusively on my Sporty cafe racer. That bike will literally shake itself to death when it hits 7500rpm and north of 165, but the engine is bulletproof and I have never had a Cometic gasket come unsealed and let oil loose. Lesser gaskets? ONCE.

The Viton is to provide extra cold sealing. You still need Torque to Yield bolts or studs for any MLS gasket.
Cometic is the only gasket I have had weep on me.

Originally Posted by yetijeff

So what would be a decent method to getting that finish? Because mines def not mirror smooth and cometic seems to be the only company that makes a gasket thick enough to work...

Milling machine just needs good tolerances(vertical and rate) to get down to 30~50. Most can only do 80~100.
Closest place to me is still an hour or two away that can do it.


You should be able to get a APEXi in 1.5 or 1.8mm. I forget how big cosworth goes.

[Sugoi_Style]

Hi I was wondering, how can one fab up the extended wing stands for the oe se wing? Or where I could get them? Any feedback would be appreciated.



Heres another shot...

[yetijeff]

Originally Posted by S14DB

The Viton is to provide extra cold sealing. You still need Torque to Yield bolts or studs for any MLS gasket.
Cometic is the only gasket I have had weep on me.

Milling machine just needs good tolerances(vertical and rate) to get down to 30~50. Most can only do 80~100.
Closest place to me is still an hour or two away that can do it.


You should be able to get a APEXi in 1.5 or 1.8mm. I forget how big cosworth goes.

Awesome thanks for the info

[Reece]

Originally Posted by S14DB

Sounds like it.

Ahh... of course. Thanks.

[GL Chrillz]

I did a shell swap a while back, and the shell i swapped to was an automatic. i did the auto to manual conversion easily, since my old shell was a manual (sr20) and now when i shift into 1st, 3rd, or 5th gear i have to have the piece that houses the hvac controls and cd player out because the shifter will hit it before it shifts into gear...what would have done this?

[hOngsterr]

Originally Posted by GL Chrillz

I did a shell swap a while back, and the shell i swapped to was an automatic. i did the auto to manual conversion easily, since my old shell was a manual (sr20) and now when i shift into 1st, 3rd, or 5th gear i have to have the piece that houses the hvac controls and cd player out because the shifter will hit it before it shifts into gear...what would have done this?

did you put in the shifter backwards?

[mau5trap]

What injectors do the s14 sr blacktop with the t28 bb use?

[PeaceOnesxWai]

^Same injectors as S13. 370cc

[GL Chrillz]

Originally Posted by hOngsterr

did you put in the shifter backwards?

i didnt touch it, motor/trans got pulled from my old shell and put right into this one. i did swap dash's though. i used the dash i had in my coupe because it was uncracked and put it in a hatch. i thought they were both the same though...

[S-Nation S13]

so I asked about my leak coming out of the back of the flare nut on my ps high pressure hard line.. if I were to re flare the hardline and would that be an easier fix rather than to fine a new hard line ???


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[S14DB]

Originally Posted by Reece

Ahh... of course. Thanks.

Jack that wheel up and grab the coilover and try and shake it.

Originally Posted by GL Chrillz

i didnt touch it, motor/trans got pulled from my old shell and put right into this one. i did swap dash's though. i used the dash i had in my coupe because it was uncracked and put it in a hatch. i thought they were both the same though...

I have seen a lot of backwards shifters on motorsets. Must be a fad in JP. Sometimes I swear the shifter has been bent. I usually just get a B&M.

Originally Posted by S-Nation S13

so I asked about my leak coming out of the back of the flare nut on my ps high pressure hard line.. if I were to re flare the hardline and would that be an easier fix rather than to fine a new hard line ???

If you have the tool to do the double flair it shouldn't be to hard. But, a new line would be easier.

[S-Nation S13]

oh so the flare on the ps line is a double flare .. hm didn't know that .. would any one happen to know what size flare nut I would need for an OEM set up ??


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[GL Chrillz]

Originally Posted by S14DB

I have seen a lot of backwards shifters on motorsets. Must be a fad in JP. Sometimes I swear the shifter has been bent. I usually just get a B&M.

i had this motor in another chassis and it shifted just fine in there unless it some how got spun around without removing the shifter at all?

[ryandriftingfat]

No, the shifter is keyed 180 degrees apart.

You're saying you yourself pulled the motor out of the car with the shifter still attached to the trans and bolted it into the new car without anyone removing the shifter?

If your new dash is bolted in correctly and your motor/trans are mounted correctly in their spots - the dash is the same, chassis layout is the same, bezel is the same.... it really, really sounds like your shifter is reversed. Plus most people will pull the shifter when they swap motors, it goes in easier.

Just pull the shifter, turn it around and check.

[racepar1]

Originally Posted by GL Chrillz

i had this motor in another chassis and it shifted just fine in there unless it some how got spun around without removing the shifter at all?

Wait, you pulled the engine/trans without removing the shifter???

To the best of my knowledge that's not even possible. If that's what you did you probably did bend it removing/installing the engine. You MUST remove the shifter to remove the trans by itself or with the engine...

[GL Chrillz]

Originally Posted by racepar1

Wait, you pulled the engine/trans without removing the shifter???

To the best of my knowledge that's not even possible. If that's what you did you probably did bend it removing/installing the engine. You MUST remove the shifter to remove the trans by itself or with the engine...

haha oh...i must have been high or something. you're completely right. i did pull the shifter. must have put it in backwards. thanks guys. ignore my retard

[Grocery Cart]

Back once again, Is there anyway to ID a diff with just the gears?
The numbers on it are 38421 P9000


Also on the ring gear there's "49:12"
EDIT:
After a little searching my question changed. It's showing the diff is from a 300zx, datsun 720, 280z, and 200sx?

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by Grocery Cart

Back once again, Is there anyway to ID a diff with just the gears?
The numbers on it are 38421 P9000


Also on the ring gear there's "49:12"
EDIT:
After a little searching my question changed. It's showing the diff is from a 300zx, datsun 720, 280z, and 200sx?

It's a 4.08 out of a R200. Nothing special. Shelf stock

[hOngsterr]

Originally Posted by racepar1

Wait, you pulled the engine/trans without removing the shifter???

To the best of my knowledge that's not even possible. If that's what you did you probably did bend it removing/installing the engine. You MUST remove the shifter to remove the trans by itself or with the engine...

I actually done with with the shifter on while removing motor/tranny.
But reinstalling was a different story, i actually had to take it off.
But yes, REMOVE THE SHIFTER make life easier when you have snap ring tools lol

Originally Posted by GL Chrillz

haha oh...i must have been high or something. you're completely right. i did pull the shifter. must have put it in backwards. thanks guys. ignore my retard

It's okay, it happens. Glad we could help

[bc.]

Originally Posted by S-Nation S13

oh so the flare on the ps line is a double flare .. hm didn't know that .. would any one happen to know what size flare nut I would need for an OEM set up ??


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Did you replace the O-ring yet?

[acslater9]

I'm in the process of doing a 5 lug hub swap/z32 brake swap and I'm confused because I was reading some threads that said you can't use z32 5 lug hubs on a s13 is this true?

Now lets say hypothetically I buy these Contano 240SX 5-Lug Wheel Hub Conversions the s13 set 2x front/2x rear lugs. And lets say I bought 2 front z32 rotors, will the rotors fit on those 5 lugs? If not would I need to buy the s14 front lugs in order for the z32 rotors to fit?

If none of these are correct can someone please tell me the necessary items I would need to complete this swap. Thanks.

[az_240]

^Z32 N/A 5 lug rear hubs fit the S13.
Yes the z32 rotors will fit.

[acslater9]

Originally Posted by az_240

^Z32 N/A 5 lug rear hubs fit the S13.
Yes the z32 rotors will fit.

The z32 rotors would fit on the s13 5 lug hubs?

[Reece]

So this isn't an S chassis question, but something I need to know. My daily driver is a 93 Camry with an autotragic gearbox. Yesterday while driving, it had it in drive (of course) and the shifter dropped down to second on its own. That's never happened to me before, what might that be? I don't know shit about automatics so I don't really have any idea of what could be wrong.

[Oggy]

Can a uni-body chassis ever wear out?

I'm considering buying bone stock 380k mile 240sx. The paint is shot but the body looks nice and straight, and the owner insists its rust free. I would want to swap the engine and refresh the suspension anyway, but I really don't want to have to deal with chassis repairs/reinforcements (i.e. seam welding).

Obviously the car was well cared for all it's life or it wouldn't be stock with 380,000 miles, but even still, that much use takes a toll on pretty much everything else, is the chassis any different?

Thanks

[codyace]

Originally Posted by S-Nation S13

so I asked about my leak coming out of the back of the flare nut on my ps high pressure hard line.. if I were to re flare the hardline and would that be an easier fix rather than to fine a new hard line ???


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Yup, but the thing is I'm not sure what size line the OE stuff is, nor if you can find a suitable imperial size to work.

Originally Posted by bc.

Did you replace the O-ring yet?

Do those fittings have o rings? I know the rack does but unsure on the inline thing.

Originally Posted by Oggy

Can a uni-body chassis ever wear out?

I'm considering buying bone stock 380k mile 240sx. The paint is shot but the body looks nice and straight, and the owner insists its rust free. I would want to swap the engine and refresh the suspension anyway, but I really don't want to have to deal with chassis repairs/reinforcements (i.e. seam welding).

Obviously the car was well cared for all it's life or it wouldn't be stock with 380,000 miles, but even still, that much use takes a toll on pretty much everything else, is the chassis any different?

Thanks

If it's a straight car and not bent, and you're swapping everything anyway....why not. I'd not consider milesage on anything going to the track. Now going to be a streeter, I'm a not a fan...call me crazy but I see cars last forever with some owners, the switch owners, and the car has a trans bust or a rear break in two weeks.

[bc.]

Originally Posted by codyace

Do those fittings have o rings? I know the rack does but unsure on the inline thing.

Yes. I posted a link to the thread which shows it at the bottom of the last page, but here it is again. I redid my high pressure line and it cost $55 and is hands down better than an internet kit.


The picture is blurry, but at the tip you can see the O-ring. That is the sealing mechanism.