Shogun, from stock to +700BHP extreme

[shogun!]

This is how to change the wheel studs to longer ones (not my car on some pictures)
Remove the wheels

Remove the bolts on the backside of the brake caliper (socket 17) and hang it up with a bit of wire.

Remove the center cover on the wheel hub with a flat screwdriver.

Remove the lock pin (replace with a new one)

Use a pair of flat pliers, squeeze the legs together and press out the pin

Remove the centre nut (socket 32). The wheel hub will start rotating, use a long bar or equal between the floor and the wheel studs to hold the wheel hub in place.

When the nut is removed, take out the washer placed behind it and pull off the wheel hub

Press the old studs out. If you dont have a wise or equal, you can hammer them out.

Please try to avoid using to much force when smacking them out, every blow will make small dimples inside the bearings. If you use a small sledge hammer One firm blow is better than multiple smaller ones. Support from behind is good to save the bearings.

Place the new longer studs in correct position (splines). Carefully knock them in a bit. Important that the splines are correctly alligned. Use a larger socket and a wheel nut and tighten till the stud is firmly seated towards the back of the hub..

Clean all surfaces and put new grease on the bearing surfaces. If you plan to use larger brake discs in the future, it is a good idea to remove the splash guard behinf the brake disc before you remount the disc.

Remount the washer, nut and locking pin. Assemble brake disc and spacer.

Remount the brake caliper

Mount the wheels and enjoy the wider stance
This is the result on my car (no spacers mounted yet and Camber not adjusted). This is also before the wider fenders are mounted.


I use a 5-stud wheel hub with pin studs. Make life much easier

Longer studs

Front

Rear

[digitalightkenz]

man, you are a dedicated guy!

Keep it up!

Ken

[shogun!]

Ooops!
A late New Years gift turned up aswell

[shogun!]

A small but important upgrade

[Ceepo]

Love this build, car is becoming epic!!!

[shogun!]

I do not want to mess around with lots of hard to reach screws and nuts so I looked around to find a good solution.
Thanks to Creatix[/URL] I managed to lay my hands on a bunch of really good Stainless Steel V-band clamps and flanges. They make life so much easier eliminating the hassle with aligning bolted flanges. Easy to mount and dismantle.
I will use them on the exhaust system, the down pipe, the front pipe, the two wastegates and on the turbon

[RB24_S14]

The engine is nice! But that bumper is not making your car attractive. Other than that good job.

[shogun!]

Today all lower arms got the same satin black touch like the SPL ends. Very classy. I like!
The Kouki lights are on. Super fit. I also changed the pins in the new boot lock assembly so I only have to use one and same key to all locks.

[shogun!]

Lots of action in the garage.
The head is improved one step further.
To eliminate fuel surge problems and fuel capacity at the track and during heavy acceleration, a surge tank is installed together with two Bosch 044 fuelpumps.

[shogun!]

Included with the new Kouki lights, I got a new and longer boot lock-assembly. I do not want to have more than one key so I made a nice and easy modification.
Here is how to do it. I made a small "how to"
Enjoy.

[shogun!]

What will happen when the fuel pump in the tank will suck air instead of fuel?

This could happen when you are on the track or during heavy acceleration. The fuel is forced towards the side of the tank, away from the pump. Especially when the tank is not full. The air will be pumped into the fuel line, onwards to the fuel rail and via the injectors into the engine.

Most of the time this will cause a noticeable decrease of power and it may also damage your engine.

To stop air entering the fuel system, a surge tank / swirl pot is a very good solution.

I have tested a couple of designs and found two really well working versions. Which one to use is mainly a question of available space. Some install it in the boot, others in the engine bay. I will put mine in the engine bay.

If it is installed in the boot, use Teflon hoses. They are more gas tight compared with ordinary steel braided hoses and will prevent the smell of fuel inside the car. They are also resistant against E85.

To connect the hoses to the surge tank / swirl pot, use AN-connections. Usual sizes like AN-6, AN-8 or AN-10.

The installation is fairly simple. Remember the high pressure pump need rather much power and should be connected over a fused relay. It is recommended to use the ordinary pump power feed as relay control signal.

Boot installation

Engine bay installation

Bosch inline pump (0580254044)

Installation Diagram

[g-via]

Is there some sort of pressure relief valve/system on the line connecting the swirl pot to the fuel tank?

[shogun!]

Originally Posted by g-via

Is there some sort of pressure relief valve/system on the line connecting the swirl pot to the fuel tank?

No. It is like stock. Free flow on the return line

[shogun!]

Got a Haltech solenoid to control the boost very accurately at each load point.



This is how it will be installed but with the exception that I will use two external Tial wastegate valves.

[shogun!]

This story has quite recently been published in a Swedish tuning magazine. The styling will of course look very much different with the Wide Body, new Front Bumper and more

[g-via]

Congrats Tim!

[shogun!]

Thanks mate

Another short story published in 2010. Winner Round 5.

[prodigyJJ]

Nice...everything

[xblack240x]

Great build just finished the five pages! Continue the great work, good luck with the build, you are on the path to an incredibly enjoyable s13!

[shogun!]

Thxs mates.
I enjoy this 100%

[shogun!]

A complete set of new Carbotech XP8
Front

Rear

[PoorMans180SX]

Make sure when you put the SPL tie rod ends on the car you use a lock nut on the bottom! The one you have on there will vibrate off. It comes with two different ones. The nuts with the taper are the ones you want.

I know from experience.

[shogun!]

I hope it did not go bad for you. Did it come off completely?

Thanks for the advice
The second one has a very strange thread and looks as if it is the wrong one. I will get another kind of lock nut if needed.

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

Make sure when you put the SPL tie rod ends on the car you use a lock nut on the bottom! The one you have on there will vibrate off. It comes with two different ones. The nuts with the taper are the ones you want.

I know from experience.

[shogun!]

Some of todays work:

New bushes on the steering rack.


SPL and Tein outer and inner tie rods and Driftworks lower arms.

[SmogSUX]

Step 1: Remove front bumper
Step 2: Give me your wife
Step 3: Congratulate yourself

Good job man

[shogun!]

Originally Posted by SmogSUX

Step 1: Remove front bumper
Step 2: Give me your wife
Step 3: Congratulate yourself

Good job man

Thanks man.

Front bumper has been on the car for 10 years and I have just changed it. Now I have a Works9.


and I'll keep the wife. She is excellent

[element2301]

which lower control arms are those and how was the quality of them

[shogun!]

Originally Posted by element2301

which lower control arms are those and how was the quality of them

They are made by Driftworks in the UK. Very well made. I just resprayed them since I don't fancy orange arms

Here is a copy/paste from Driftworks homepage:

Product Information
The Driftworks Suspension Line. As used on our 2006 D1GB Championship winning 200sx.

Driftworks adjustable lower control arms with pillowball ends allow you to accurately set the track (the width of your wheelbase) of your drift/track car. They eliminate every last bit of unwanted play that a normal bushed lower arm would give you, by using high quality spherical bearings to replace the rubber/poly bush.
This means the suspension does exactly what you set it up to do, without having to account for the dark art how 'bush play' effects alignment.

On the front arms the use of the spherical bearing means that whatever you set your castor to (tension rod length), there is no binding from the inner bush being forced out of it's natural angle, when the tension rod pulls the front lower arm forward..

The adjustable steering bump stops allow you to set maximum steering angle for your car. Please be aware that the adjustable bump stop is a generic item, that may require slight modification to get maximum steering angle on your individual car, as Nissan use different knuckles with different cars. Bump stops are adjustable as the maximum steering angle position is set on an individual basis, as it changes with castor angle (tension rod length).

Easy to fit. Just measure the length of your standard arm, and use the tunbuckle adjusting system, to set these arms to the desired track width. These arms must be used with our adjustable tension rods. Please ensure you retain enough thread in the adjuster on the tension rod, as the wider you make the track, the longer your tension rod will need to be to acheive the same castor angle.

Our front and rear lower arms are an important part of the puzzle in any fully sorted suspension setup on a RWD Nissan. They are manufactured to the same extremely high standards as the rest of our suspension range, using high load Japanese bearings, and maximum penetration welding.
Do not confuse these products with cheap imitations that use dangerous bearings and low strength welding.

Original color




Mine resprayed satin black

[shogun!]

Bought some 30pcs of Mikalor Supra Clamps in different sizes.

[shogun!]

If I can afford it (yes I can) I am possibly investing in a good set or tyres.