S14 Sr20/Sebring Impressions/Track Guys

[guitaraholic]

The Track Guys hosted a 2 day event at Sebring International Raceway in Florida. It was definately worth the trip. In the Beginner and Novice groups you got to drive with an instructor as well as classes. I would say if you are new to the sport I would definitely take advantage of them.

The 240sx has some pretty basic mods. It's an SR20(S14), FMIC, full exhaust, Injectors, MAF, ECU,, as well with suspension mods BC Racing coilovers, Poly Suspension bushings, upgraded tires (245/40/18's Sumotos), R32 GTR Brakes.

For the most part all I can say is WOW, I was surprised how well these cars handled. The grip (esp around turn 17) was tremendous. The car is extremely predicatable, it let me know if it was going to understeer or oversteer, which it didn't really do either. I was able to keep up with a lot of cars with DOT tires, large racing spoiler, front spliter, cages and all, and the little 240sx was able to keep up.

Though in the straights I got roasted. Though the car is in need of a bit of a tune up, so I was probably missing quite a few horses. (No time for a real tune up at the time). Though ultimately in the end, it probably going to need a Jeremy Clarkson (POWER!!!!)

Also had cooling issues. After a few laps it would start to run a bit hot. It has a Mitsumoto 2 row alluminum radiator, but I guess that wasn't enough. I will have to do some ducting on it and maybe even a water sprayer over the intercooler/radiator.

I also got a little bit of brake fade, I'm hoping this can be corrected with upgraded pads and crossdrilled rotors.

[jacobzking]

maybe look in to a Nismo tStat ($60?). Also, what are you running in your radiator (i love water wetter)? Do you have the lower engine cover/splash shield installed ($90 from nissan)? do you have a radiator cooling panel? are you running stock ecu with stock tune... any idea on AFR numbers. running lease can cause you to run hot.

for the brakes, what fluid? how long has it been since you did a complete flush?

[guitaraholic]

Thanks for the info Jacob. You pretty much summed up a lot of what the racers/instructors said...lol. Though I will have to look into the
Nismo Stat.

I was running a 40% mixture of antifreeze and water. The instructor advised me to half that, and he mentioned water wetter (how much of a difference did you notice?). I was about to do that after the 2nd session but the coolant hardline coming from the turbo split killing the rest of my run

I don't have any ducting run yet. I will be putting in a splash shield and radiator cooling panel as well as making a front splitter for it. I'll have to do that all next time (I work overseas, and only get back stateside for a couple of weeks every 3-4 months). I am also thinking about putting in a sprayer system for the intercooler/radiator, I do believe my FMIC was heat soaked near the end of the run because I noticed a lose in power near the end of each run.

As for the AFRs, they are around 11.5 or so, I will have to pull the dyno to get the exact #'s. The ECU is tuned for 550cc injectors.

It has been a couple of years since the brake system has been flushed, but that is because the car has mostly sit in storage for the last 2 years.

[jacobzking]

Originally Posted by guitaraholic

Thanks for the info Jacob. You pretty much summed up a lot of what the racers/instructors said...lol. Though I will have to look into the
Nismo Stat.

I was running a 40% mixture of antifreeze and water. The instructor advised me to half that, and he mentioned water wetter (how much of a difference did you notice?). I was about to do that after the 2nd session but the coolant hardline coming from the turbo split killing the rest of my run

I don't have any ducting run yet. I will be putting in a splash shield and radiator cooling panel as well as making a front splitter for it. I'll have to do that all next time (I work overseas, and only get back stateside for a couple of weeks every 3-4 months). I am also thinking about putting in a sprayer system for the intercooler/radiator, I do believe my FMIC was heat soaked near the end of the run because I noticed a lose in power near the end of each run.

As for the AFRs, they are around 11.5 or so, I will have to pull the dyno to get the exact #'s. The ECU is tuned for 550cc injectors.

It has been a couple of years since the brake system has been flushed, but that is because the car has mostly sit in storage for the last 2 years.

if the car sits for that long, it is inevitable that moisture will work its way in to the brake fluid... the moisture/water boils in the brake lines causing bubbles and renders the brakes useless for track day. most tracks will require you to flush your brakes within anywhere from 30-90 days before the event for that reason. you can have the biggest baddest brakes in the world... but a few drops of water in the lines can make em fail.

invest in a nismo tstat, quick and easy.

also, get a wideband so you can REALLY see your AFRs. if you're running too much over 11.5 under boost, the engine will run hotter.

[guitaraholic]

Originally Posted by jacobzking

if the car sits for that long, it is inevitable that moisture will work its way in to the brake fluid... the moisture/water boils in the brake lines causing bubbles and renders the brakes useless for track day. most tracks will require you to flush your brakes within anywhere from 30-90 days before the event for that reason. you can have the biggest baddest brakes in the world... but a few drops of water in the lines can make em fail.

invest in a nismo tstat, quick and easy.

also, get a wideband so you can REALLY see your AFRs. if you're running too much over 11.5 under boost, the engine will run hotter.

I'll have to get the NISMO stat in Sep.

As for the wideband,, I do have one just haven't had the time to install it. I hope to have time in September.

[sean1]

what radiator fans are you running?

[jacobzking]

me personally, I'm a fan of the stock clutch fan, just be sure you're using the fan shroud... if not the fan is pretty much useless.

[KA24DESOneThree]

Don't waste your time or money on cross-drilled rotors. Buy Brembo blanks.

I run Brembo LCF600 fluid, its compressibility is very low and its boiling point is very high. I also recommend stainless lines to help with pedal feel.

Your tire/wheel package is slowing you down.

[slider2828]

Water wetter and straight water.... You guys in florida don't freeze so really no use in putting anti freeze in...

1 bottle of Water wetter and DISTILLED water for the entire radiator. Don't forget to flush out all the anti freeze in your system first. Don't use hose or tap water, that contains minerals and basically will start rusting some parts.

Water wetter + water is basically not worrying about over heating ever again hahaha.... Try it before buying the thermostat. Its like 15 bux total. Get like 6 gallons of Distilled Water from Safeway is like 6 bux, plus water wetter is like 9 bux I think.... easy stuff to help your car a lot.

Makes flushing your radiator in the future easy. Just open drain and flush hahaha

Cross drilled bla bla brakes are the worst, they heat up as fast as they cool down, so not recommended. Better to just get blanks from 88ROTORS. I love them cause they can drill 4 lug holes for free.... Flush your brake fluid, get some MOTUL RBF600.

[jr_ss]

I suggest a colder thermostat as well, but not the Nismo one. Your car doesn't live on the track and needs to heat up in every day use situations. I have a Sard colder thermo in my car, I think it's a 170degree thermo where the Nismo is in the 150degree range. Typically SR's tend to run hot on tracks as well, so the correct ducting should be in place. If you don't have a condenser, you need shrouding on the sides of the radiator to force air through it. As stated make sure the splash gaurd is there too.

[jacobzking]

If you don't have a condenser, you need shrouding on the sides of the radiator to force air through it

Any recommendations on that?^^

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by jacobzking

If you don't have a condenser, you need shrouding on the sides of the radiator to force air through it

Any recommendations on that?^^

I took my Koyo into work with me and welded some 1/8" thick flat plate to the sides. Anything to block air from escaping through the gap there and going around the radiator. Air will travel in the path of least resistance.

If you scroll down in the link below you'll see the shrouding I added to help with cooling.

http://zilvia.net/f/builds-builds-on...ml#post4693221

[jacobzking]

Originally Posted by jr_ss

I took my Koyo into work with me and welded some 1/8" thick flat plate to the sides. Anything to block air from escaping through the gap there and going around the radiator. Air will travel in the path of least resistance.

If you scroll down in the link below you'll see the shrouding I added to help with cooling.

http://zilvia.net/f/builds-builds-on...ml#post4693221

I'm using the OEM shroud so I don't think that would help, but I'll have to look and see if there's "gaps to fill ."

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by jacobzking

I'm using the OEM shroud so I don't think that would help, but I'll have to look and see if there's "gaps to fill ."

Do you have the condenser from your a/c still in the car? If not, you have gaps my friend.

[jacobzking]

Originally Posted by jr_ss

Do you have the condenser from your a/c still in the car? If not, you have gaps my friend.

ah, now I see. i thought the plates were going towards the engine (pointless). wish I could weld. either way... i'll try and do something similar, thanks for the tip!