Road Race setup/ Track pics - Page 23 - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

*kognition* · 07-05-2010, 01:29 PM

Looks good. How are those uprights working out with your setup?

Quote:

Originally Posted by WhiteGLX

i will take pics of all my splitter stuff for you guys, it held up really good at the track, the semi high speeds pics showed to deflection anywhere ont eh splitter, tho it was only like 90mph at turn in where the pics were taken.

WhiteGLX · 07-25-2010, 09:18 AM

Track event went well, lots of great cars there and a bunch of nice guys accompanied with rude arrogant d*cks as well. I went through a bit of last minute trouble to try and fix my cooling issues both coolant and oil temps were high at the last event.

I installed a FC RX7 oilcooler right in front of the radaitor, and i sealed off the hood where its been lifted so high. Results - Oil temps came down, coolant temps are still sky high, so i think ducting and thermostat removed will hopefully do the trick.

Toyo RA1s are not grippy enough on hit days to get more than 5 decent laps in on track, tho lower tire pressures did help a bit, but still only 5 laps or so and then greasiness.

The shifter situation has not been fixed, it was not an issue with my actual shifter at the last event, but more a geometry issue that has to be corrected in order to be able to drive the car smoothly and engage the correct gear each time and avoid bad things and mistakes on track.

Once the tire issue and shifter issues are actually fixed this car will rip, i think both fixes will cause my lap times to come down quite a bit and i can once again concentrate on just driving and not worry about the car and its issues, like i did last year when i gained so much speed with the old setup.

GRM 2010 UTCC 350SX on Vimeo

2010 GRM UTCC just part of a lap i thought was alright... on Vimeo

First video is my fastest lap, but the issues are noticeable in areas, and the second video is half a lap that i think would have been my fastest lap had the checkered flag get thrown when going through oaktree (the last corner in the video).

Pictures to come, many many pics my friend took that i plan on stealing from him

.

*kognition* · 07-25-2010, 09:47 AM

Nice!

Quote:

Originally Posted by WhiteGLX

Track event went well, lots of great cars there and a bunch of nice guys accompanied with rude arrogant d*cks as well. I went through a bit of last minute trouble to try and fix my cooling issues both coolant and oil temps were high at the last event.

I installed a FC RX7 oilcooler right in front of the radaitor, and i sealed off the hood where its been lifted so high. Results - Oil temps came down, coolant temps are still sky high, so i think ducting and thermostat removed will hopefully do the trick.

Toyo RA1s are not grippy enough on hit days to get more than 5 decent laps in on track, tho lower tire pressures did help a bit, but still only 5 laps or so and then greasiness.

The shifter situation has not been fixed, it was not an issue with my actual shifter at the last event, but more a geometry issue that has to be corrected in order to be able to drive the car smoothly and engage the correct gear each time and avoid bad things and mistakes on track.

Once the tire issue and shifter issues are actually fixed this car will rip, i think both fixes will cause my lap times to come down quite a bit and i can once again concentrate on just driving and not worry about the car and its issues, like i did last year when i gained so much speed with the old setup.

GRM 2010 UTCC 350SX on Vimeo

2010 GRM UTCC just part of a lap i thought was alright... on Vimeo

First video is my fastest lap, but the issues are noticeable in areas, and the second video is half a lap that i think would have been my fastest lap had the checkered flag get thrown when going through oaktree (the last corner in the video).

Pictures to come, many many pics my friend took that i plan on stealing from him

.

KC_240sx · 08-09-2010, 02:25 PM

Question for you guys that autocross.

Is anyone running a 5 lug conversion and getting points added for it? Or are they letting it off as a factory option? Cant find much by searching.

*kognition* · 08-09-2010, 07:39 PM

Never heard of it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by KC_240sx

Question for you guys that autocross.

Is anyone running a 5 lug conversion and getting points added for it? Or are they letting it off as a factory option? Cant find much by searching.

WhiteGLX · 08-16-2010, 06:59 AM

slider2828 · 08-16-2010, 09:48 AM

Car is looking great! So all the bugs worked out now?

Bumnah · 08-16-2010, 10:23 AM

Love the pictures of your coming through Oak tree. F'n love VIR, great track!

SicBastard · 08-16-2010, 10:33 AM

What tires are you thinking about replacing the RA1s with? Are you limited by a class?

WhiteGLX · 08-16-2010, 10:59 AM

Bugs are not all worked out yet, those are just photos from GRM UTCC.

Only bugs are Tach signal, Tires, and shifter geometry.

I dont have an official class, and if anything better tires are just more points, but i do plan on running Hoosier R6's. I am going to break down this winter hopefully and buy a new set to use all next year, so i can stop scrounging for used tires.

slider2828 · 10-14-2010, 11:37 AM

Hey WhiteGLX, whatcha been up to lately? Anything new?

I just upgarded to subframe risers to keep it more planted in the rear during spring compression and on NRR they have a guide for extended teh rear traction rod the 8.25 or 8.5inches... I am thinking going 8.5 inches which was suggested....

Also switching to a 4.36 rear with HLSD.... With that I kinda want more top end and might go for a ISIS intake manifold.....

Laguna Thanksgiving weekend I can't wait... Hope all is well and I am totally using your splitter as a reference, but I am really sucking at it.... I am using 1/8" oak, but thinking about doubling up for strength.... When you had an SR, how did you mount the splitter, its killing me....

millertm · 10-26-2010, 05:54 PM

Just wondering if any of you have done some creative things to prevent the turbo oil return hose from cracking under the heat. I have S14 SR20 with 2871r. My 4th session on track it cracked and ended my day... I installed a replacement hose with small heat shield/wrap from FRSport, which was a pain in the #$# (I need midget hands). I'm sure it's possible to install something more reliable. Anyone do something?

UNITEDMASTER · 01-11-2011, 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by millertm

Just wondering if any of you have done some creative things to prevent the turbo oil return hose from cracking under the heat. I have S14 SR20 with 2871r. My 4th session on track it cracked and ended my day... I installed a replacement hose with small heat shield/wrap from FRSport, which was a pain in the #$# (I need midget hands). I'm sure it's possible to install something more reliable. Anyone do something?

Use a steal braided orkevlar impregnated hose, with the thick orange fire sleave. DONE DEAL.

slider2828 · 10-29-2010, 01:05 PM

OOO crap I gotta remember that....

I never have that problem though actually. I used a 20 year old OEM one... but I am going to replace it tonight! THanks for reminding me.....

I am going to get that oil one from kragen....

GnarKiller · 01-02-2011, 05:28 PM

this thread needs more life!

slider2828 · 01-07-2011, 02:10 PM

I agree!!! But I recently basically blew up the turbo and blew up my motor......

Was racing with an instructor driving a svt cobra with slicks.... I was running stock 235 dunlop direzza starspecs and re01 255's..... was smoking him, but pull in and the turbo ate some oil and oil was lol.... starts up but but turbo is clacking against the housing and dunno about the engine...

Imarvin240 · 01-07-2011, 06:53 PM

sick photos

slider2828 · 01-08-2011, 01:08 AM

Here's the car like back in August. Made the splitter stronger with more bracing, but thats what the car looks like..... pretty much...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Imarvin240

sick photos

brizanden · 01-08-2011, 02:11 AM

hey white glx. are your flares zg flares? im still kinda on the fence about them, but if thats what your running they look fine. just not too many coupes have em so hard to tell if i like them. Thought they might be too big in back

slider2828 · 01-08-2011, 11:55 AM

They aren't they are JUN flares....

brizanden · 01-08-2011, 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slider2828

They aren't they are JUN flares....

thats what i was thinking i should go with more. So did he just run two sets of rears? i can only find rears from like rhd and shit.

Def · 01-08-2011, 07:37 PM

Looks like you need some more negative camber up front.

slider2828 · 01-09-2011, 06:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Def

Looks like you need some more negative camber up front.

Yea those were only at 1*... Since then I changed my specs....

FCamber: 2.5*
RCamber: 2*
Front toe and castor is stock.
Rear Toe: 0.2"
Rear Tranction is something like 6.5 or something...> Got the correct measurement from NRR's excel chart. It was like +0.25"... Forgot what is base.

I don't like it so far, cause it under steers on low speed corners, but high speed its very stable.... I dunno....

Thinking going 2.5 FCamber and rear going down to 1.5*

Def · 01-10-2011, 06:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slider2828

Yea those were only at 1*... Since then I changed my specs....

FCamber: 2.5*
RCamber: 2*
Front toe and castor is stock.
Rear Toe: 0.2"
Rear Tranction is something like 6.5 or something...> Got the correct measurement from NRR's excel chart. It was like +0.25"... Forgot what is base.

I don't like it so far, cause it under steers on low speed corners, but high speed its very stable.... I dunno....

Thinking going 2.5 FCamber and rear going down to 1.5*

Use these settings, you'll love it:

-3 or -3.5 deg front camber (more is better if you haven't corrected your roll center),
ZERO front toe
Front caster can be stock or a little more

Rear camber -1.5 to -1.8
Rear toe, 3/16" total

I run the same traction rod length (I think it's like 8.25" or something, a little longer than stock), the short traction rod length felt like crap.

The car will turn in way better with zero front toe and a bit more camber up front. A little less toe and camber in the rear will make the car more willing to rotate.

slider2828 · 01-10-2011, 06:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Def

Use these settings, you'll love it:

-3 or -3.5 deg front camber (more is better if you haven't corrected your roll center),
ZERO front toe
Front caster can be stock or a little more

Rear camber -1.5 to -1.8
Rear toe, 3/16" total

I run the same traction rod length (I think it's like 8.25" or something, a little longer than stock), the short traction rod length felt like crap.

The car will turn in way better with zero front toe and a bit more camber up front. A little less toe and camber in the rear will make the car more willing to rotate.

Yeah the front I haven't compensated for roll center.... Just waiting to have a lower packaged arm. I don't trust myself boring out the cups, pressing in spherical bearings and all that stuff. Yeah the car is so not rotating too much right now. Just gotta go back and tune it. LOL 3/16 is 0.18" so its close....

3* Camber? Really? hmmm I am going to reduce the rear camber and take it one step at a time.

Thanks for your suggestion.... You think I can just do like a 1/4 turn in the rear upper arms and call it a day or def do you think I should go get it done again?

Thanks again!

Def · 01-11-2011, 03:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slider2828

Yeah the front I haven't compensated for roll center.... Just waiting to have a lower packaged arm. I don't trust myself boring out the cups, pressing in spherical bearings and all that stuff. Yeah the car is so not rotating too much right now. Just gotta go back and tune it. LOL 3/16 is 0.18" so its close....

3* Camber? Really? hmmm I am going to reduce the rear camber and take it one step at a time.

Thanks for your suggestion.... You think I can just do like a 1/4 turn in the rear upper arms and call it a day or def do you think I should go get it done again?

Thanks again!

You're focusing too much on camber and rear toe.

Zero your front toe - stock is a ton of toe-in which makes the front not want to turn into a corner.

Front you can run A LOT of negative camber because your car will lose it as it rolls on the outside wheel with out a corrected RC.

Rear camber isn't that big of a deal, I wouldn't mess with it much unless you were going to do a full alignment.

slider2828 · 01-09-2011, 06:39 PM

Nah I think he has a full set of JUN I am pretty sure...

WhiteGLX · 01-10-2011, 08:52 PM

JUN flares, the fronts arnt much different from the rears and the ZG flares should work just fine. The JUN flares didnt fit that great and i cut the fronts up alot to make them fit with the other body pieces i installed.

Alignment wise:
Camber F : -3.3*
Camber R : -2.2*
Toe: 0 F/R
Car handled great at the UTCC event, i just had to play with tire pressures alot to get any real grip out of the old RA-1's.

Slider - You may want to consider a thicker stiffer material for your front splitter, it really really helps settle the car on high speed straits and higher speed corners when the splitter cant flex.

I dont have any real updates for my car besides a potential shifter fix with a different bracket which should fix the geometry issue and possibly new Hoosiers for this season since i didnt sell the car and dont need the money badly enough to part it out till next yer when i want to seriously switch to another chassis. If all goes as planned this year the car should be faster then ever before especially if i remove some more weight and get more seat time. Then possibly another UTCC entry, maybe.

slider2828 · 01-10-2011, 09:28 PM

What are you using for material? So far I stiffened it up a LOT. The end is 1/8" oak ply and the center behind the bumper area is 1/4" oak ply with gorilla glue. I mounted it better to the chassis with thicker steel used for house framing....

In the shot above it was still 1/8" all around without anything substancial bracing...

What LCA and RLCA are you using especially for roll center correction?

INeedNewTires · 01-11-2011, 10:33 AM

5/8" birtch covered in resin and braced REALLY well to the chassis and the front subframe

its almost finished in these pics but you get the idea. i can literally stand on it and it doesnt flex. total weight is about 40lbs though

07-25-2010, 09:18 AM	#2
WhiteGLX Zilvia Addict Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Baltimore, MD Age: 40 Posts: 872 Trader Rating: (7) Feedback Score: 7 reviews	Track event went well, lots of great cars there and a bunch of nice guys accompanied with rude arrogant dcks as well. I went through a bit of last minute trouble to try and fix my cooling issues both coolant and oil temps were high at the last event. I installed a FC RX7 oilcooler right in front of the radaitor, and i sealed off the hood where its been lifted so high. Results - Oil temps came down, coolant temps are still sky high, so i think ducting and thermostat removed will hopefully do the trick. Toyo RA1s are not grippy enough on hit days to get more than 5 decent laps in on track, tho lower tire pressures did help a bit, but still only 5 laps or so and then greasiness. The shifter situation has not been fixed, it was not an issue with my actual shifter at the last event, but more a geometry issue that has to be corrected in order to be able to drive the car smoothly and engage the correct gear each time and avoid bad things and mistakes on track. Once the tire issue and shifter issues are actually fixed this car will rip, i think both fixes will cause my lap times to come down quite a bit and i can once again concentrate on just driving and not worry about the car and its issues, like i did last year when i gained so much speed with the old setup. GRM 2010 UTCC 350SX on Vimeo 2010 GRM UTCC just part of a lap i thought was alright... on Vimeo First video is my fastest lap, but the issues are noticeable in areas, and the second video is half a lap that i think would have been my fastest lap had the checkered flag get thrown when going through oaktree (the last corner in the video). Pictures to come, many many pics my friend took that i plan on stealing from him . __________________ NASA HPDE Instructor*

08-16-2010, 06:59 AM	#6
WhiteGLX Zilvia Addict Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Baltimore, MD Age: 40 Posts: 872 Trader Rating: (7) Feedback Score: 7 reviews	__________________ *NASA HPDE Instructor*

08-16-2010, 09:48 AM	#7
slider2828 Post Whore! Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: San Francisco, CA Posts: 5,998 Trader Rating: (13) Feedback Score: 13 reviews	Car is looking great! So all the bugs worked out now? __________________ Turn and Burn!

08-16-2010, 10:23 AM	#8
Bumnah Zilvia Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: VA Posts: 291 Trader Rating: (4) Feedback Score: 4 reviews	Love the pictures of your coming through Oak tree. F'n love VIR, great track! __________________ bumnah.com/trakpak

08-16-2010, 10:33 AM	#9
SicBastard Zilvia Addict Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: New York, NY Posts: 803 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	What tires are you thinking about replacing the RA1s with? Are you limited by a class? __________________ BURN OUT IN YOUR FACE! 1998 S14 LS7/T56 swap in progress, build thread: http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/147301...d-gto-pan.html

08-09-2010, 02:25 PM	#4
KC_240sx Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: KCK Age: 36 Posts: 32 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Question for you guys that autocross. Is anyone running a 5 lug conversion and getting points added for it? Or are they letting it off as a factory option? Cant find much by searching.

08-16-2010, 10:59 AM	#10
WhiteGLX Zilvia Addict Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Baltimore, MD Age: 40 Posts: 872 Trader Rating: (7) Feedback Score: 7 reviews	Bugs are not all worked out yet, those are just photos from GRM UTCC. Only bugs are Tach signal, Tires, and shifter geometry. I dont have an official class, and if anything better tires are just more points, but i do plan on running Hoosier R6's. I am going to break down this winter hopefully and buy a new set to use all next year, so i can stop scrounging for used tires. __________________ *NASA HPDE Instructor*

10-14-2010, 11:37 AM	#11
slider2828 Post Whore! Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: San Francisco, CA Posts: 5,998 Trader Rating: (13) Feedback Score: 13 reviews	Hey WhiteGLX, whatcha been up to lately? Anything new? I just upgarded to subframe risers to keep it more planted in the rear during spring compression and on NRR they have a guide for extended teh rear traction rod the 8.25 or 8.5inches... I am thinking going 8.5 inches which was suggested.... Also switching to a 4.36 rear with HLSD.... With that I kinda want more top end and might go for a ISIS intake manifold..... Laguna Thanksgiving weekend I can't wait... Hope all is well and I am totally using your splitter as a reference, but I am really sucking at it.... I am using 1/8" oak, but thinking about doubling up for strength.... When you had an SR, how did you mount the splitter, its killing me.... __________________ Turn and Burn!

10-26-2010, 05:54 PM	#12
millertm Leaky Injector Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Virginia Age: 41 Posts: 74 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Just wondering if any of you have done some creative things to prevent the turbo oil return hose from cracking under the heat. I have S14 SR20 with 2871r. My 4th session on track it cracked and ended my day... I installed a replacement hose with small heat shield/wrap from FRSport, which was a pain in the #$# (I need midget hands). I'm sure it's possible to install something more reliable. Anyone do something? __________________

10-29-2010, 01:05 PM	#14
slider2828 Post Whore! Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: San Francisco, CA Posts: 5,998 Trader Rating: (13) Feedback Score: 13 reviews	OOO crap I gotta remember that.... I never have that problem though actually. I used a 20 year old OEM one... but I am going to replace it tonight! THanks for reminding me..... I am going to get that oil one from kragen.... __________________ Turn and Burn!

01-02-2011, 05:28 PM	#15
GnarKiller Leaky Injector Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Charleston, SC Posts: 107 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	this thread needs more life!

01-07-2011, 02:10 PM	#16
slider2828 Post Whore! Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: San Francisco, CA Posts: 5,998 Trader Rating: (13) Feedback Score: 13 reviews	I agree!!! But I recently basically blew up the turbo and blew up my motor...... Was racing with an instructor driving a svt cobra with slicks.... I was running stock 235 dunlop direzza starspecs and re01 255's..... was smoking him, but pull in and the turbo ate some oil and oil was lol.... starts up but but turbo is clacking against the housing and dunno about the engine... __________________ Turn and Burn!

01-07-2011, 06:53 PM	#17
Imarvin240 Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: king of prussia, PA! Posts: 1,721 Trader Rating: (18) Feedback Score: 18 reviews	sick photos

01-08-2011, 02:11 AM	#19
brizanden Zilvia Addict Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: C-Bus, ohio Age: 34 Posts: 640 Trader Rating: (4) Feedback Score: 4 reviews	hey white glx. are your flares zg flares? im still kinda on the fence about them, but if thats what your running they look fine. just not too many coupes have em so hard to tell if i like them. Thought they might be too big in back

01-08-2011, 11:55 AM	#20
slider2828 Post Whore! Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: San Francisco, CA Posts: 5,998 Trader Rating: (13) Feedback Score: 13 reviews	They aren't they are JUN flares.... __________________ Turn and Burn!

01-08-2011, 07:37 PM	#22
Def Post Whore! Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 2,701 Trader Rating: (16) Feedback Score: 16 reviews	Looks like you need some more negative camber up front. __________________ S13 Hatch - Goes around tracks quickly DEFSPORT

01-09-2011, 06:39 PM	#27
slider2828 Post Whore! Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: San Francisco, CA Posts: 5,998 Trader Rating: (13) Feedback Score: 13 reviews	Nah I think he has a full set of JUN I am pretty sure... __________________ Turn and Burn!

01-10-2011, 08:52 PM	#28
WhiteGLX Zilvia Addict Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Baltimore, MD Age: 40 Posts: 872 Trader Rating: (7) Feedback Score: 7 reviews	JUN flares, the fronts arnt much different from the rears and the ZG flares should work just fine. The JUN flares didnt fit that great and i cut the fronts up alot to make them fit with the other body pieces i installed. Alignment wise: Camber F : -3.3* Camber R : -2.2* Toe: 0 F/R Car handled great at the UTCC event, i just had to play with tire pressures alot to get any real grip out of the old RA-1's. Slider - You may want to consider a thicker stiffer material for your front splitter, it really really helps settle the car on high speed straits and higher speed corners when the splitter cant flex. I dont have any real updates for my car besides a potential shifter fix with a different bracket which should fix the geometry issue and possibly new Hoosiers for this season since i didnt sell the car and dont need the money badly enough to part it out till next yer when i want to seriously switch to another chassis. If all goes as planned this year the car should be faster then ever before especially if i remove some more weight and get more seat time. Then possibly another UTCC entry, maybe. __________________ *NASA HPDE Instructor*

01-10-2011, 09:28 PM	#29
slider2828 Post Whore! Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: San Francisco, CA Posts: 5,998 Trader Rating: (13) Feedback Score: 13 reviews	What are you using for material? So far I stiffened it up a LOT. The end is 1/8" oak ply and the center behind the bumper area is 1/4" oak ply with gorilla glue. I mounted it better to the chassis with thicker steel used for house framing.... In the shot above it was still 1/8" all around without anything substancial bracing... What LCA and RLCA are you using especially for roll center correction? __________________ Turn and Burn!

01-11-2011, 10:33 AM	#30
INeedNewTires Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: May 2003 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 1,527 Trader Rating: (4) Rides Gallery: INeedNewTires Feedback Score: 4 reviews	5/8" birtch covered in resin and braced REALLY well to the chassis and the front subframe its almost finished in these pics but you get the idea. i can literally stand on it and it doesnt flex. total weight is about 40lbs though __________________