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Old 12-14-2010, 12:46 PM   #3661
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 240sx123$ View Post
So basically what youre saying to me is "not uh, youre wrong."

Why not just say that?

Why try to bait me into giving the answer that you thought Id give, only to shoot it down, when you clearly knew the answer all along? Were all adults here, I dont think the childish games are really necessary. If you know the answer to a question, answer it. If you have something to add to someones answer, add it. But dont belittle the poster simply because their answer wasnt "up to par" with your standards. If you have a better answer- were all ears. Simply posting "not uh, youre wrong, ive dynoed it" isnt helping anybody. Rather than being rude, wouldnt it have just been easier to post said dyno graph?

No response to this is necessary, I just thought Id point out how unhelpful your line of thinking is, not only to the person asking the question, but to anyone who may be browsing the forum.
The claims you posted have been repeated many times over the years and shot down every time. Why are you quoting old wives tales. I thought maybe you had new data. Sorry, I'll be more direct next time instead of giving people the benefit of the doubt.

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To keep things on topic:
What is the name of the black metal bracket that is bolted to the top of the bumper support and runs across the width of the car? The bracket that the bumper cover bolts to. And is that part the same between zenkis and koukis?
Front Bumper Retainer(upper). They are the same 95-98. The difference is in the crash bars.
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Old 12-14-2010, 01:23 PM   #3662
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The claims you posted have been repeated many times over the years and shot down every time. Why are you quoting old wives tales. I thought maybe you had new data. Sorry, I'll be more direct next time instead of giving people the benefit of the doubt.
Call it "giving me the benefit of the doubt" if you like. Your question was phrased in the form of a trap. It was your intention to make me look foolish. Perhaps the claims i posted have been repeated so many times because A) there is a great amount of truth to it when dealing with most other four cylinders, and B) because thats exactly what it feels like in the "butt dyno" on a KA. Old wives tales? Hardly. Simply because that logic doesnt apply to the KA per se, does not mean that its an old wives tale. Throw a 3" exhaust on a D16 and tell me you dont lose power.

Why do people on this forum like to argue so much? Its like people phrase a question INTENTIONALLY to start controversy. I feel like I have to google everything I say to make sure theres not the slightest possibility that what Ive said could be misconstrewn as "incorrect" or "controversial." Im not saying I have the best answers out there, or even remotely close to the most knowledge on 240's. Im just like everyone else on here- trying to learn while helping others out. Like I said, if youve got something useful to add, or a correction to make, make it. But cluttering up the thread with mindless dribble, especially when you already know the answer to a specific question isnt helping anyone, and its (in my opinion) one of the reasons theres so much animosity amongst members on this forum. If you dont demonstrate youve searched your ass off, or if you incorrectly reply to a thread, you get your head chopped off. People would rather bark at someone for not searching than they would to take the time to answer the question.

And yes, ive heard the logic "Well if you dont tell them to search, theyll never learn how and will always want information spoon fed." True, but its also equally annoying when you DO search for something, and the only results you can find are other threads telling the OP to search! If you know the answer, either answer it, or dont! Theres no need to be a dick about it! Furthermore, there are also ways to tell someone to "search" without just saying "search." Give them some keyword suggestions at the very least.

/rant.

Oh and ill try this one again: Can anyone find the production numbers for s14's (koukis specifically) that give a break down of how many of each color were made? Im trying to get a general idea of how many Silver Moss kouki's are out there.
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Old 12-14-2010, 02:19 PM   #3663
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From a practicality point of view- if youre not turbo'd, the meager gains youd experience by removing the butterflies is not worth the noticeable drop in fuel economy. But for a turbo car, the gains can be quite rewarding.
I'd have to agree on that. The hp gain from removing the butterflies on an NA isnt worth the amount of fuel it consumes. From my experience leave the butterflies in if your NA. Im not turboed yet but ill find out the benefits real soon
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Old 12-14-2010, 04:56 PM   #3664
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For you daily drivers on open differentials and coilovers, how do you guys get on to curbs/driveways when making a right into them? I just had a problem trying to get into a curb. I guess my right rear wheel was off the ground leaving me with nothing. Any techniques or tips are appreciated!
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Old 12-14-2010, 06:41 PM   #3665
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zooopreme View Post
For you daily drivers on open differentials and coilovers, how do you guys get on to curbs/driveways when making a right into them? I just had a problem trying to get into a curb. I guess my right rear wheel was off the ground leaving me with nothing. Any techniques or tips are appreciated!
limited slip or welded.

open puts power where it spins...which means the wheel in the air. raise your car...or buy the necessary parts.

pays to play.
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Old 12-15-2010, 06:21 AM   #3666
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Originally Posted by zooopreme View Post
For you daily drivers on open differentials and coilovers, how do you guys get on to curbs/driveways when making a right into them? I just had a problem trying to get into a curb. I guess my right rear wheel was off the ground leaving me with nothing. Any techniques or tips are appreciated!
Short of buying a VLSD or welding your dif, youll just have to work on keeping all four tires on the ground. When one comes up and you cant move forward, cut the wheel, try to reverse, and then go forward again. Theres no real trick to it- if you have an open dif with a wheel off the ground.. youre not going anywhere.

My suggestion would be to pick up a six bolt VLSD for around $100. Best solution for the problem (for the money.)
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Old 12-15-2010, 07:49 AM   #3667
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MY engine is out of the bay i was wondering how do i DRAIN ALL MY GAS?
I have lucas and injector cleaner and i want some fresh gas pump gas in my car when i swap it in... How do i dump all this gas?
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Old 12-15-2010, 09:43 AM   #3668
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Originally Posted by 240sx123$ View Post
Short of buying a VLSD or welding your dif, youll just have to work on keeping all four tires on the ground. When one comes up and you cant move forward, cut the wheel, try to reverse, and then go forward again. Theres no real trick to it- if you have an open dif with a wheel off the ground.. youre not going anywhere.

My suggestion would be to pick up a six bolt VLSD for around $100. Best solution for the problem (for the money.)
Thanks for the responses, killer bee and 240SX123 but...

Don't VLSD heat up in order to lock? How would it lock the left wheel if I'm going at such a low speed? Remember, I'm making a right up a curb/driveway to a plaza or parking lot, my car tripods with the right wheel in the air.

And would a 1.5 lock my left wheel up to get me up the curb? I know a welded would do me good in this situation but I'm not okay with the cons that come with the tire screeches while making low speed turns and rainy conditions

Anybody wanna convince me to get this pos welded? hahaha
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Old 12-15-2010, 10:39 AM   #3669
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Originally Posted by zooopreme View Post
Thanks for the responses, killer bee and 240SX123 but...

Don't VLSD heat up in order to lock? How would it lock the left wheel if I'm going at such a low speed? Remember, I'm making a right up a curb/driveway to a plaza or parking lot, my car tripods with the right wheel in the air.

And would a 1.5 lock my left wheel up to get me up the curb? I know a welded would do me good in this situation but I'm not okay with the cons that come with the tire screeches while making low speed turns and rainy conditions

Anybody wanna convince me to get this pos welded? hahaha
Quite the contrary actually. A welded dif is the LAST dif Id choose for a daily driver. VLSD is (in my opinion) best for a DD.

The V in VLSD stands for Viscous. It uses the diff fluid to lock. A VLSD allows the tires to spin at different speeds, but locks them together when either of them slips. You speed does not matter, and which side its on does not matter. If either wheel slips, the diff sends power to BOTH wheels, locking the dif. It locks via fluid, not heat. (compared to traditional 1.5 and 2 way LSD's which essentially use a little clutch inside there to lock).

A welded dif is just that- straight posi rear. This means that both rear wheels are ALWAYS traveling at the same speed. When you turn, your outside wheel needs to travel a further distance than the inside wheel. This is why its important to let both wheels turn freely from one another sometimes. A welded dif will be noticeably less comfortable than a VLSD, because youll get the "hopping" or "skipping" around turns with a welded dif.

The plus side to a welded dif is that its cheap or free. The downside is its only really good for drift and drag.

Id really like to have a 1.5way for my daily, but when pricing everything out, its just not cost effective for me.

Welded- Free
VLSD - $100
1.5way - $800+

VLSD is a nice happy medium in terms of cost, performance, and comfort.
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Old 12-15-2010, 01:15 PM   #3670
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how much do you guys think tomei short shifter go for now? used with no shift boot.
how much did they run for brand new?
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Old 12-15-2010, 06:00 PM   #3671
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zooopreme View Post
Thanks for the responses, killer bee and 240SX123 but...

Don't VLSD heat up in order to lock? How would it lock the left wheel if I'm going at such a low speed? Remember, I'm making a right up a curb/driveway to a plaza or parking lot, my car tripods with the right wheel in the air.

And would a 1.5 lock my left wheel up to get me up the curb? I know a welded would do me good in this situation but I'm not okay with the cons that come with the tire screeches while making low speed turns and rainy conditions

Anybody wanna convince me to get this pos welded? hahaha

been dailying a welded for almost three years now. drift it as well. if you are an idiot...and over gas it in the rain....it'll kick out...it's a no brainer. just drive reasonable....and you won't have any problems.

basically...if I want it to drift...give it gas...if I don't....don't mash it in the corners.
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Old 12-15-2010, 06:51 PM   #3672
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Does anyone know where you can get a NEW 300ZX TT drivers side axle from (left)?
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Old 12-16-2010, 10:58 AM   #3673
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Dealer seems a logical place to start.
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Old 12-16-2010, 12:01 PM   #3674
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Dealer seems a logical place to start.
Yeah, one would think huh. but CourtesyNissan doesn't show them availible anymore. so i thought a Napa/Advance/autozone?
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Old 12-16-2010, 07:34 PM   #3675
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Are Drag DR-33 "clones" of the MB Battles?

Battles


DR-33


I suppose the 40 vs 15 offset is going to cause the DR's to be flat faced while the Battles have a nice concave look.
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Old 12-16-2010, 08:26 PM   #3676
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Corbic, you are correct, what was your question? lol you literally answered it on your own. The DR's do not concave like the MB's do.
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Old 12-17-2010, 04:34 AM   #3677
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Corbic, you are correct, what was your question? lol you literally answered it on your own. The DR's do not concave like the MB's do.
And Battles are 5-lug only, FML
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Old 12-17-2010, 06:25 AM   #3678
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And Battles are 5-lug only, FML
If you look around carefully, a 5lug swap isnt all that expensive to do. I dont know why people bother buying wheels for their 4luggers. If i was gonna spend $800 on 4lug wheels, id spend it on SE's w/ tires and a 5 lug swap. But thats just me.
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Old 12-17-2010, 07:12 AM   #3679
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If you look around carefully, a 5lug swap isnt all that expensive to do. I dont know why people bother buying wheels for their 4luggers. If i was gonna spend $800 on 4lug wheels, id spend it on SE's w/ tires and a 5 lug swap. But thats just me.
Battles, $600
Tires, $400
5-lug, eBay $300, OEM $600
- lose my 6x stocks + tires
+/- can use my 17inch Mustang spares (which need tires)

DR-33, $400
Tires, $400
+ significantly cheaper
+ still keep stockers, drift spares
- crap widths, offsets and styles
- less options
- might need spacers, $200
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Old 12-17-2010, 07:25 AM   #3680
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Battles, $600
Tires, $400
5-lug, eBay $300, OEM $600
- lose my 6x stocks + tires
+/- can use my 17inch Mustang spares (which need tires)

DR-33, $400
Tires, $400
+ significantly cheaper
+ still keep stockers, drift spares
- crap widths, offsets and styles
- less options
- might need spacers, $200
I sold a pair of rear 5 lug hubs recently for $20/each. Ive bought front 5 lug hubs for $40 a peice. Rotors all around can be redrilled, or upgrade the fronts to q45's for $100. Stock SE's with tires can be had for $250. Sell a set of stock 4 lugs for $150.

Ive also had a ton of luck buying used tires. Its a risky business, ive definitely bought tires that I regretted buying.. But I also have seriously lucked out. Heres my wheel/tire setup, and what I paid.

18x9 Hotwheels 68's +22 5x114.3 $480 shipped (zilvia)
235/40/18 Goodyear Eagle F1's New, $150 for two. (tst)
255/35/18 Michelin Pilot Sports (expensive ass tires, 80% tread) $150 for two. (craigslist)

I mean, you definitely have a point- dont get me wrong. But in the long run, youre gonna have much better wheel options with 5 lug, and its really not as expensive to swap it over as youre making it out to be. If you pay going rate for everything, sure.. but this is the forums, the place for deals to be made. Trade some shit, or wait for the good ass deals to come up.

Id rather be rolling on stock SE's and be 5 lug than staying 4 lug and running some weak ass +35 offset wheels.

Although, the Rota P45R is a nasty looking wheel and comes in pretty good sizing for you 4 luggers. I think you can get it in 17" with a +12.
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Old 12-17-2010, 07:37 AM   #3681
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What kind of oil should i use for sr20det first start up after rebuild?
What kind of tranny oil would be the best? How much of each?
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Old 12-17-2010, 09:32 AM   #3682
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is it bad to wet sand in the rain?

i took off the primer and clear coat since the previous owner did a shitty job.
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Old 12-17-2010, 09:49 AM   #3683
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is it bad to wet sand in the rain?

i took off the primer and clear coat since the previous owner did a shitty job.
Nope. It'll be good to keep dust down
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Old 12-17-2010, 09:52 AM   #3684
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What kind of oil should i use for sr20det first start up after rebuild?
What kind of tranny oil would be the best? How much of each?
Penzoil Syncromesh for the trans, the GM stuff for GL4 brass. It is Redline, but 1/3 the cost.

Engine, u pick synthetic or Dino, just do a change or two shortly after and check for metal or contaminants.
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Old 12-17-2010, 12:23 PM   #3685
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For you daily drivers on open differentials and coilovers, how do you guys get on to curbs/driveways when making a right into them? I just had a problem trying to get into a curb. I guess my right rear wheel was off the ground leaving me with nothing. Any techniques or tips are appreciated!
swing wide and hit it at less angle?
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Old 12-17-2010, 12:52 PM   #3686
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Sorry for not being specific, but what type as in number wise is the transmission oil i need? And 10w40 for engine or? Thanks for the information youve given me though.

Also ill ask again, how do i drain all the gas in my car? I have 8 gallons in it and the engine is out, and the gas is mixed with injector cleaner, thanks!
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Old 12-17-2010, 01:44 PM   #3687
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Sorry for not being specific, but what type as in number wise is the transmission oil i need? And 10w40 for engine or? Thanks for the information youve given me though.

Also ill ask again, how do i drain all the gas in my car? I have 8 gallons in it and the engine is out, and the gas is mixed with injector cleaner, thanks!
put a hose...and start sucking till you get a mouthful of gas. and watch it drain.

after...rinse your mouth out.
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Old 12-17-2010, 01:50 PM   #3688
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I can't fit any hoses in the gas thing on side of car lol.. tried.
What other way?
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Old 12-17-2010, 02:35 PM   #3689
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pull your whole gas tank. Its not that hard.
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Old 12-17-2010, 03:04 PM   #3690
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roadster6909 View Post
I can't fit any hoses in the gas thing on side of car lol.. tried.
What other way?
s13 or 14. either way...you can get to the gas tank from the back seat....you can fit like your whole hand in their.
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