My SR20VET...

[future]

The Z will actually be a weekend track/fun car so geared more towards track and driven on the street. I'm just having trouble finding out if they are worth it. And the no top plates is also pretty annoying and adds even more to the cost.

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by future

The Z will actually be a weekend track/fun car so geared more towards track and driven on the street. I'm just having trouble finding out if they are worth it. And the no top plates is also pretty annoying and adds even more to the cost.

Look up Ztuner on FB or his website and contact him about it. He has KWs on his Z and he's strictly a Z tuner, if you didn't take that away from his website name. Harry is a good honest guy and wouldn't lead you astray.

[future]

Thanks! Love the build btw

[s14unimog]

Wow man, great numbers! A long time coming - I bet you're pumped to have that bad boy running.

Quick question, I can't remember, are you running an EBC? MY 20G was always really laggy without one. I would try that before swapping cams or looking into turbine housings. There is no comparison to running off mechanical boost regulation.

[RalliartRsX]

^^ His ECU controls boost.

And no EBC is going to overcome physics.

[jr_ss]

Thanks s14unimog! It was a long time coming and the car is extremely fun to drive. As Ralliart said, EBC is controlled via ECU.

Some things need to change, but we are going to approach it one thing at a time. No sense in just throwing things at it and not knowing exactly what the best solution was. I'm hoping in another month or so to come back here with a different dyno graph with increased response. I'm not really looking to make more peak power on pump gas, but 500rpms decrease in spool time would be nice, however it might be a far cry.

I may throw a race fuel tune at it too. I'd be interested to see what this setup can do with a better knock resistant fuel in it.

[s14unimog]

Originally Posted by RalliartRsX

^^ His ECU controls boost. And no EBC is going to overcome physics.

Although I agree with your statement, I will tell you that in regards to fast turbo response, an EBC is an absolute requirement. A mechanical spring inside an actuator will begin to lift and bleed boost as it gets close to it's spring rate where as an electronic solenoid interruption can do an instantaneous dump and hold the wastegate in a completely closed state until. Not to mention a solenoid controlled by electronic pressure sensing is WAY faster/accurate at controlling overboosting, so you can approach the set pressure without overshooting and dumping turbine pressure to correct.

I've played with various types of mechanical boost regulation over the years and I can tell you that what I say is fact. Trust me when I say, this is not an opinion.

Originally Posted by jr_ss

Thanks s14unimog! It was a long time coming and the car is extremely fun to drive. As Ralliart said, EBC is controlled via ECU.

Some things need to change, but we are going to approach it one thing at a time. No sense in just throwing things at it and not knowing exactly what the best solution was. I'm hoping in another month or so to come back here with a different dyno graph with increased response. I'm not really looking to make more peak power on pump gas, but 500rpms decrease in spool time would be nice, however it might be a far cry.

I may throw a race fuel tune at it too. I'd be interested to see what this setup can do with a better knock resistant fuel in it.

Awesome! I know it's a large turbo, and where it's hitting is actually really good. I was just double checking. Yeah, I'm sure you could hit some big numbers on that setup!

Love your work!

[KoukiMonsta]

Originally Posted by s14unimog

I've played with various types of mechanical boost regulation over the years and I can tell you that what I say is fact. Trust me when I say, this is not an

Love your work!

This intruiges me, never put much thought into it being that I am a simple man...and never chased the 'ultimate in power and response'

Side note, its cool to see you posting again S14Unimog it has been a while...this place sucks now

Edit: Jetskis look rad too. I follow you as 'tw0nn'

[RalliartRsX]

s14unimog, you are missing my point.

- The turbo he has is a terrible mismatch of wheel sizes between the turbine and compressor and reduces turbo efficiency in the spool regions (physics)

- The 0.84 Open Scroll T3 housing allows to run more boost up top at the inherent sacrifice of spoolup (physics)

- The engagement point from low to "high" cams (which on the VVL the intake and exhaust cams switch point can be adjusted independently) is VERY important to spool regions (physics)

My point is, I do not think a simple EBC (which the ECU is much faster at opening the solenoid compared to any aftermarket stand alone closed loop EBC), which mind you, is going backwards in terms of EBC, is going to fix the inherent "issues" (and I use the term lightly as this is referring to spoolup and not an setup issue) the setup has with spooling so late in the RPM range.

Again, my point is PHYSICS

[s14unimog]

Originally Posted by KoukiMonsta

This intruiges me, never put much thought into it being that I am a simple man...and never chased the 'ultimate in power and response'. Side note, its cool to see you posting again S14Unimog it has been a while...this place sucks now
Edit: Jetskis look rad too. I follow you as 'tw0nn'

Own a 20G SR20 and that'll put you on the chase; lol. Yeah I don't post much on here anymore - Obeewon is complaining about the reason as we speak. The crowd has..... I'll say, changed a bit. I kind of just do my own thing and occasionally check up on those who were doing it right.

Originally Posted by RalliartRsX

s14unimog, you are missing my point.

Calm down professor. I'm not argue with you on any of those points. I'm just telling my boy jr_ss that he's got a rad build and I'm stoked his car is up and running. Despite all of the points you're after, an EBC helps across the board - believe me or not I don't care. Let's not foul up his thread with this useless debate.

[JSimpson]

Hey jr_ss, how is the noise with the 044 in the trunk? I have a fully interiored car like yours and have been pondering moving my 044s (parallel) from under the car to the trunk as long as the sound isn't deafening. Thanks

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by s14unimog

Own a 20G SR20 and that'll put you on the chase; lol. Yeah I don't post much on here anymore - Obeewon is complaining about the reason as we speak. The crowd has..... I'll say, changed a bit. I kind of just do my own thing and occasionally check up on those who were doing it right. I'm just telling my boy jr_ss that he's got a rad build and I'm stoked his car is up and running.

The crowd has absolutely changed and I wish I could say it is for the best. Everyone associates these cars with drifting and while there are a large amount of S-chassis in the drifting scene, that's not the only thing they are worth having for. I appreciate the kind words. It's been a long road to getting the car to this point. However, I'll be pressing forward with the changes with the constant progression of this car.

Originally Posted by JSimpson

Hey jr_ss, how is the noise with the 044 in the trunk? I have a fully interiored car like yours and have been pondering moving my 044s (parallel) from under the car to the trunk as long as the sound isn't deafening. Thanks

I'll get some in car video tomorrow for you. I don't think it's loud and it's easily covered by the radio. I honestly anticipated it being louder than it is.

[JSimpson]

Wicked, thanks!

[Tom N]

Originally Posted by s14unimog

Own a 20G SR20 and that'll put you on the chase; lol.

+1

.................

[TheRealSy90]

Can't wait to finish my 20g setup. Hopefully its not too laggy with S4 cams.

[Tom N]

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

Can't wait to finish my 20g setup. Hopefully its not too laggy with S4 cams.

I don't want the thread jack Glenn's post but if you dyno the car with a 20g and those cams I would like to see the graph to compare to a 20g with 256/260 cams.

[TheRealSy90]

Yeah it will be dyno'd after it's all put together and finished. It's a greddy td06h-20g 8cm three bolt on an old Trust mid-mount manifold modified for lhd. Motor isn't crazy built just s4 cams, bc springs retainers, 86.5 cp pistons. Will be on aem V2. I'm only hoping for extremely reliable 350hp or maybe 400, but I don't see that happening on 91 pump.

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by Tom N

I don't want the thread jack Glenn's post but if you dyno the car with a 20g and those cams I would like to see the graph to compare to a 20g with 256/260 cams.

No worries Tom. I like a good discussion, you know this. It would probably serve the 20G thread better though.

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

Yeah it will be dyno'd after it's all put together and finished. It's a greddy td06h-20g 8cm three bolt on an old Trust mid-mount manifold modified for lhd. Motor isn't crazy built just s4 cams, bc springs retainers, 86.5 cp pistons. Will be on aem V2. I'm only hoping for extremely reliable 350hp or maybe 400, but I don't see that happening on 91 pump.

You're goin to be very limited on 91, although high 300's wouldn't surprise me. I think Tom made mid 4's on the last motor, but he's running Meth injection to supplement his fuel system.

[TheRealSy90]

That's what I've come to realize. Although a reliable 350 at the wheels will make me happy, since I'm pairing it with a cd009 and it's going to haul ass regardless.

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

That's what I've come to realize. Although a reliable 350 at the wheels will make me happy, since I'm pairing it with a cd009 and it's going to haul ass regardless.

Agreed. My car is stupid fast and I can't even use 2nd gear on the street. 65-100 takes seconds. I'm heading back to the strip this weekend. We'll see if I can get an 11sec pass.

[Face Man]

This is a nasty build bro. You should be very proud of your skills. Hopefully some of the new crowd on here will learn from you and strive to bring there cars to your leval. I have been following this thread for a long time. Its nice to see it complete and being enjoyed. Its also reaparked the fire in me to get off my ass and complete my ve build kouki build. Thanks for the motivation bro. Whats your opion on the oil pump situation with these heads? Before you answer though let me throw my idea out here and get your honest opinion. My plan is to use a det pump and cut it at second horizontal rib down from the head mating surface. The take a de pump from the the same spot and tig weld them together. That would eliminate the need for alot of extra parts. For and oil pump that in my opinion isnt a necessary. Please give me your honest opinion.

[jr_ss]

Thanks for the compliments. I could only hope that my little build could inspire others to spend the time and dedication required to do a build. The car still has a long way to go, but it's a labor of love, not just a phase most of these kids are going through.

My honest opinion, use the VE oil pump. It is much larger than the DET pump and that extra oil volume is needed when the cams switch over and for the higher RPMs you'll be turning. Don't cut corners, it'll bite you in the ass in the long run.

[brndck]

+1 for ve oil pump. It takes a lot of pressure and volume to engage the second set of cam lobes. The only way I'd use a non-ve pump is if you were using vvl killer cams.

[candyred_240sx]

Originally Posted by brndck

you're not the first person i've read who had issues with a mazworx manifold cracking
http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/i...=520202&st=210

http://www.freshalloy.com/showthread...-Project/page6

http://nissanroadracing.com/archive/...hp/t-5350.html

i'm looking into one of these manifolds and hopefully it won't have the same issues

http://prlmotorsports.com/billetinta...x#.VZgbNRNVikp'

My mazworx ve intake manifold cracked also after very little hours on it. Mazworx agreed to send me a new one hopefully this one holds up. Definitely going to try and brace it better.

[brndck]

Originally Posted by candyred_240sx

My mazworx ve intake manifold cracked also after very little hours on it. Mazworx agreed to send me a new one hopefully this one holds up. Definitely going to try and brace it better.

Post pix plz! Did it crack at the welds?

[whitey240]

Originally Posted by brndck

you're not the first person i've read who had issues with a mazworx manifold cracking
http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/i...=520202&st=210

http://www.freshalloy.com/showthread...-Project/page6

http://nissanroadracing.com/archive/...hp/t-5350.html

i'm looking into one of these manifolds and hopefully it won't have the same issues

http://prlmotorsports.com/billetinta...x#.VZgbNRNVikp'

I would definitely go with the PRL IM over the Mazworx one. Since the same guy made both, I would consider the PRL IM version 2.0.

[TheRealSy90]

Has anybody tried using a vvl oil pump with the normal det head? Not sure if the top two bolts to the head line up or not.

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

Has anybody tried using a vvl oil pump with the normal det head? Not sure if the top two bolts to the head line up or not.

I would think that that two holes would line up on the S13 head, but not on the S14/15 head.

Speaking of oil pumps. Check out this pressure I observed on my Defi peak recording....



Insanely high... I'm thinking this occurred/occurs when the engine oil isn't up to temp completely. I'm running Brad Penn 15w-40.

[RalliartRsX]

Also, the 15W-40 is a slightly heavier oil as well, which will surely ass to pressure spikes!

And looking at the gauge, it is OVER 140PSI! I think I see 80-90 psi @ 7,000 RPM in my DET. That pressure is insane! Do you think this may develop into an issue with certain oils seals is such high oil pressure is sustained??.

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by RalliartRsX

Also, the 15W-40 is a slightly heavier oil as well, which will surely ass to pressure spikes!

And looking at the gauge, it is OVER 140PSI! I think I see 80-90 psi @ 7,000 RPM in my DET. That pressure is insane! Do you think this may develop into an issue with certain oils seals is such high oil pressure is sustained??.

I know the 15w-40 will add to an increase in oil pressure, but here in Fl it's generally hot and humid all the time, so I considered it some added security. Perhaps dropping to a 10w-30 could be an experiment to see what pressures the oiling system generates.

Like I said, I really do believe it's a pre-warm condition. I don't beat on it or boost it until the motor is good and hot. At cruise in 4th gear at 2500rpms tonight I was seeing 60psi. Dropped it to third gear and kept the speed and it jumped to 70psi. I do see it climb over 100psi regularly, but never that high once warm. I'll watch it the next time I do a 3rd gear pull once at operating temp to see what it peaks at.

As for seals, the only one I can really see going is the Turbo oil seal. I do have the recommended restrictor installed but, at those pressures, it has to be seeing more than what the restrictor can regulate. What other seals could possibly be compromised by such high oil pressure? I wonder what pressure the oil pressure unloader valve is set to pop off at.