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Old 10-18-2011, 09:47 PM   #8191
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when i installed my kouki tail lights sort of same thing happened. no blinkers, headlights on, only on the rear signal works but very dim and the right rear goes off when i hit the brakes.

i checked everything, it was the posi-taps i used for wiring there was something wrong with it maybe creating resistance. i fixed it by soldering the wires. so checks the tail light wires,ground and such.
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Old 10-18-2011, 10:21 PM   #8192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiboy002 View Post
what are you saying
My brake lights dont turn on when i engage the pedal. But the all the lights turn on. I just checked the power to all the fuses and the second to last one size 10 fuse which is for the stop signal isnt getting power. Is the wiring burned out?
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Old 10-18-2011, 10:50 PM   #8193
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frsh4 View Post
My brake lights dont turn on when i engage the pedal. But the all the lights turn on. I just checked the power to all the fuses and the second to last one size 10 fuse which is for the stop signal isnt getting power. Is the wiring burned out?
do a continuity test, see if there is a connection. Fuses blown don't always mean a short but there is a greater reason to them blowing. Briefly try jumping the connection, use a small wire as a fuse and see if they work, if so replace the fuse and see whats up. or cut to the chase and find out what caused it to blow (harder than it seems)
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Old 10-18-2011, 10:52 PM   #8194
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Anyone know the torque specs, if there are any, for the z32 brake caliper bolts? Rebuilding them soon and couldn't find anything from the Tutorial threads (Rexbo, nicoclub, blah blah blah)

As well as, how come some sell the kit for $100+ and z1motorsports sells it for 44$ for both front and rear?
Is there a knock-off rebuild kit, lol
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Old 10-18-2011, 10:53 PM   #8195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiboy002 View Post
do a continuity test, see if there is a connection. Fuses blown don't always mean a short but there is a greater reason to them blowing. Briefly try jumping the connection, use a small wire as a fuse and see if they work, if so replace the fuse and see whats up. or cut to the chase and find out what caused it to blow (harder than it seems)
Cool thanks. Gonna examine everything in more detail in daylight.
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Old 10-18-2011, 11:26 PM   #8196
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Anyone know off the top of their head if there's any radiator hose that, instead of going straight across like a ka, goes from left to right? I've got a Griffin radiator but it's not for a KA, just need something that looks proper that can be picked up locally. It'd obviously need similar dimensions.
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Quote:
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is this exhaust california friendly? thnx lmk
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Old 10-19-2011, 12:26 AM   #8197
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ManoNegra View Post
if they're used make the condition of the seals is good
and that you're able to push back the pistons by hands with the lines off
if not I'd look into a rebuild kit



new coilovers?
they tend to do this when they're braking in
get better with time
I've experienced this with Stance and Zeal
a little bit of lithium grease in the camber patle balljoint helps
Basically new coilovers, they been on for about 2k miles. They are Megan track. So I switched my rotors and calipers and the car somewhat jerks to the right while braking. It's more controllable. Going to check tie rods n bushings on my day off.
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:14 PM   #8198
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are s13 and s14 sr20 fan shrouds the same at the top? Can i use a s14 kazama catch can on an s13 shroud?
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:37 PM   #8199
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Thinking about doing a T25 turbo set up on me dual cam KA. I think I want to run somewhere around 10lbs of boost on stock internals. I was wondering if I'd need bigger injectors for that. Also, what is a good cheap FMIC for a KA-T? And last but not least, what is a good decently priced top mount manifold?
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:55 PM   #8200
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I'm sitting here reading Turbonetics turbo installation manual, and it says something about tightening compressor and turbine bolts after re-orientation? Does anyone know anything about this?
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Old 10-19-2011, 08:27 PM   #8201
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PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE HELP.

Alright so I have an s14 zenki with an s13 sr but my windshield wipers don't work. I do have the motor but the little thats suppose to be connected isn't their and nothing is connected to the motor. So I wanted to know wat do I need to get my windshield wipers to work and how do I go about it???
thanks
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Old 10-19-2011, 08:33 PM   #8202
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So, lowered the rear of my car about an inch today. Rubs over bumps, even the small ones. Pretty sure I know the answer to this, but to avoid this am I just going to have to add in more negative camber? Any other tips on how to make this shit not rub so much?

Edit:

For reference


I'm on coilovers. 18x9.5 +12, 225/40s in the rear. Fenders are rolled, I'm sure I could roll/pull them some more. Either that or more camber, yeh?
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Old 10-19-2011, 08:35 PM   #8203
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Post a picture of the fender to wheel/tire clearance, You could just roll your fenders. Are you on lowering springs or coilovers?
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Old 10-19-2011, 08:50 PM   #8204
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Does anyone know if an SR20de valve cover will fit on an SR20det head? I'm mainly interested in the front of the SR20de valve cover bolt spacing.
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Old 10-19-2011, 09:12 PM   #8205
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what rotors do i need to ask for / use for a 5lug swap s13

Last edited by jaxshawn; 11-21-2011 at 11:51 AM..
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Old 10-19-2011, 09:30 PM   #8206
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does anyone have info on the panel that's on the quarter glass?

trying to achieve a 2 tone scheme to have my hatch resemble a coupe without it looking awkward, like this:
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Old 10-19-2011, 09:37 PM   #8207
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Anyone know how much a 1986 Bmw 535i with about 132,000 miles will go for. It runs, I'm getting it soon for my first car. Its just sitting in my drive way til i get my license. I'm thinking of selling it, to get a good stock 240sx.
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Old 10-19-2011, 09:56 PM   #8208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daftphunk View Post
So, lowered the rear of my car about an inch today. Rubs over bumps, even the small ones. Pretty sure I know the answer to this, but to avoid this am I just going to have to add in more negative camber? Any other tips on how to make this shit not rub so much?
Add more camber, don't forget to fix the rear toe then as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Origin View Post
I'm sitting here reading Turbonetics turbo installation manual, and it says something about tightening compressor and turbine bolts after re-orientation? Does anyone know anything about this?
As in, tighten what you loosened to clock the turbo to fit your application.


Quote:
Originally Posted by chiboy002 View Post
Anyone know the torque specs, if there are any, for the z32 brake caliper bolts? Rebuilding them soon and couldn't find anything from the Tutorial threads (Rexbo, nicoclub, blah blah blah)

As well as, how come some sell the kit for $100+ and z1motorsports sells it for 44$ for both front and rear?
Is there a knock-off rebuild kit, lol
Off the top of my head one's a full kit, and one is for the piston seals only.

http://www.imperialsupplies.com/pdf/...rqueCharts.pdf


Quote:
Originally Posted by Irresistible View Post
Thinking about doing a T25 turbo set up on me dual cam KA. I think I want to run somewhere around 10lbs of boost on stock internals. I was wondering if I'd need bigger injectors for that. Also, what is a good cheap FMIC for a KA-T? And last but not least, what is a good decently priced top mount manifold?
I don't mean to sound like a dickhead, but you're starting off the COMPLETLY wrong way for a turbo car. Do your research on turbo stuff, check out KA-T forums, and plan around the setup. I assume you are new to this all, so it would benefit you to research this, and write out a budget for it all before even stepping into it all...by searching for the 'cheapest' or 'easiest' way, you're only going to shortcut the project, which 9/10 times costs more in the end...

..and with that said, if this is your daily driver, and you don't have much experience, and you don't have reliable backup transporation, that you should rethink the setup until you can attain at least experience or reliable backup wheels (whether your own, or a parents, or something)


Quote:
Originally Posted by murdoc111210 View Post
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE HELP.

Alright so I have an s14 zenki with an s13 sr but my windshield wipers don't work. I do have the motor but the little thats suppose to be connected isn't their and nothing is connected to the motor. So I wanted to know wat do I need to get my windshield wipers to work and how do I go about it???
thanks
Are you looking on how to wire it, or the parts to make the actual motor and linkage work?

Quote:
Originally Posted by drift/this View Post
Does anyone know if an SR20de valve cover will fit on an SR20det head? I'm mainly interested in the front of the SR20de valve cover bolt spacing.
It won't work. As far as spacing of the bolts, what would you need that for?

Quote:
Originally Posted by jaxshawn View Post
what rotors do i need to ask for / use for a 5lug swap s13
Let me google that for you

Quote:
Originally Posted by JZenki View Post
does anyone have info on the panel that's on the quarter glass?

trying to achieve a 2 tone scheme to have my hatch resemble a coupe
That panel looks like trash, and was probably homebuilt.
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Old 10-19-2011, 10:17 PM   #8209
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As in, tighten what you loosened to clock the turbo to fit your application.
As in, loosen the bolts that hold the backing plate on and the equivalent for the turbine? I was under the impression not to remove those. But isn't the exhaust and intercooler piping dependent on the turbo being where how it sits?
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Old 10-19-2011, 10:58 PM   #8210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JZenki View Post
does anyone have info on the panel that's on the quarter glass?

trying to achieve a 2 tone scheme to have my hatch resemble a coupe without it looking awkward, like this:
[IMG]http://img164.imageshack.us/img164/6697/twotonekit2goldcentrespv0.jpg[/IMG
There is no way to make a 2tone hatch look good. Sorry.

Those panels will only make it look worse, Like a 2tone z32
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Old 10-20-2011, 12:19 AM   #8211
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codyace View Post
Off the top of my head one's a full kit, and one is for the piston seals only.

http://www.imperialsupplies.com/pdf/...rqueCharts.pdf
awesome

As far as the kit, i guess i'll just call them cause the price changes from 12$ to 44$ if you choose the "front and rear" package
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Old 10-20-2011, 08:15 AM   #8212
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can anyone tell me the correct way to check a 96 KA tps with the two plugs? also if anyone can post up some info on how to get a ka to idle decent without having the iacv hooked up. i didn't get a nipple made when i did my pipping & dont have a welder.

thanks
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Old 10-20-2011, 10:41 AM   #8213
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Just bought some CDTRL's from a local. I was wondering if anyone else who has cdtrl's could tell me if something is missing? Also where can i get the replacement screws tha go through the housing? the skinny tall one.
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Old 10-20-2011, 12:20 PM   #8214
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Anyone have, or know the specs to the bolt at the top of this picture?

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Old 10-20-2011, 12:37 PM   #8215
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I will probably be the first one to make most zivilians change their minds about 2 tone hatches I'm going beyond just a 2tone s13 hatch. I'm going all out s13.4 front-rear, supermade kit + rb spoiler. Just looking to make the lines of the quarter window flow better..
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Old 10-20-2011, 12:52 PM   #8216
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Best way to make all that work.

Buy a s13 coupe or s14.


But, good luck.
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Old 10-20-2011, 01:59 PM   #8217
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i have a 1995 nissan 240sx i just bought, it has an srdet20 swap in it, the mass air flow sensor went out, it is a three pin, all the ones at the stores around here are four and look way diff,
do any of you guys have one for sale or know were i can get one around here?
email me at [email protected]
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Old 10-20-2011, 03:58 PM   #8218
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i gotta quick question for you guys im putting a painless wiring harness in my car and am trying to figure out whether i should wire a relay into the turn signal. do you think its necessary? the painless Manuel doesn't say anything about it and cant seem to find the answer searching.
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Old 10-20-2011, 06:13 PM   #8219
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What size fan your running?? also specific brand???
its a dual fan setup....came with the car on a cx racing radiator. So no real brand name, just EBAY i guess prolly dual 10" or 12"
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Old 10-20-2011, 07:41 PM   #8220
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Okay guys I have two questions

#1
I have two s13 diff covers. But they are different. What is the difference? Or should I say why are they different. Both drain plugs are in the same spot. But the check/fills are not

Here is the first



Now this is the one that is different



See now this one has the check and film on the drivers side

Now question number two. I'm waiting for my PBM solid risers to come in. But I'm wondering did I do this right? Or did I remove too much?



All four of them are bore like this. No lips. Help?
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