Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[AKADriver]

Originally Posted by DEGUZZI

Do I need this orifice for this line under the throttle body?

93 S13 KA24DE








If so, does its direction matter?


I believe the part number is 22321-D2200

I think the answer is YES it matters on a motor with emissions stuff in place and here's why:

That hose provides the vacuum signal for the EGR/EVAP solenoid, the solenoid switches between connecting the EGRC-BPT and EVAP purge to this vacuum signal to open them up or a port before the throttle body (no vacuum) to shut them off.

In my own personal '93 KA I replaced all the vacuum hoses with bulk PCV hose. Despite all the hoses being tight and no vac leaks I've had a persistent issue with a high idle that appears only as my car rolls to a complete stop; it'll sit rock solid at 750 if I coast with the clutch in and then right as the car rolls to a stop it jumps to almost 1000rpm before settling back out. And the reason is, now I think, this thing, because that's right when it transitions from EVAP/EGR open to closed.

I don't think the orientation matters, just the orifice size.

I'll have to raid my junk bin to see if I tossed this vacuum line. If you can, do me a favor and see what size drill bit just fits through the orifice. I'll have to make a new one out of a brass or nylon screw or something. Looks like about 1-1.5mm or somewhere in the 3/64-1/16" range.

[DEGUZZI]

Originally Posted by AKADriver

In my own personal '93 KA I replaced all the vacuum hoses with bulk PCV hose. Despite all the hoses being tight and no vac leaks I've had a persistent issue with a high idle that appears only as my car rolls to a complete stop; it'll sit rock solid at 750 if I coast with the clutch in and then right as the car rolls to a stop it jumps to almost 1000rpm before settling back out. And the reason is, now I think, this thing, because that's right when it transitions from EVAP/EGR open to closed.

Funny you mention that, because I had identical symptoms which is why I'm re-doing all my vacuum lines.

I did also discover my IACV was missing a bolt on top of being completely black inside, so that probably was the main culprit.

Originally Posted by AKADriver

I don't think the orientation matters, just the orifice size.

I'll have to raid my junk bin to see if I tossed this vacuum line. If you can, do me a favor and see what size drill bit just fits through the orifice. I'll have to make a new one out of a brass or nylon screw or something. Looks like about 1-1.5mm or somewhere in the 3/64-1/16" range.

The smallest bit I have is 1/16", and it doesn't quite fit through the orifice.

If it's relevant, the opening originally is 5/64", then tapers to the <1/16"

[splitfire]

Hello.

Has anybody dealed with AEM thermocouple amplifier?
I am trying to connect 4-channel amplifier(30-2204) to the EMS. Everything is straight clear excepting one wire: grey(SIGNAL GND). Description in the manual is quite vague, "used if a differential input is required". Could one explain how should I connect this wire and in what cases it's required?

[AKADriver]

Originally Posted by DEGUZZI

The smallest bit I have is 1/16", and it doesn't quite fit through the orifice.

If it's relevant, the opening originally is 5/64", then tapers to the <1/16"

Thanks much. I shoved the smallest plastic vacuum fitting I had into the line (maybe 3/32 or 5/64 or 2mm ID?) and it helped. I'm going to make an even smaller fitting.. I don't have any bits that small either but I could get a nylon screw and maybe use a heated piece of 16 or 18 gauge wire to 'drill' a hole through it.

[c-los13]

Having issues installing a GKtech knuckle and one piece LCA
When following the instructions on this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A8oeEXFqYTM and torquing up the nylon nuts the spec

It is IMPOSSIBLE to move the knuckle side to side

Ive reached out to the Sales Tech team at GKtech and after over a week, they said "the bearing a tight and it will free up eventually"
I gotta say im very disappointed with their "support"

Im following the install instructions step by step and using the following order from top

Nylon Nut -> small washer -> Knuckle -> 2" washer provided with the kit -> LCA -> Small washer -> Nylon Nut

Any suggestions are greatly appreciate it

[DEGUZZI]

Originally Posted by c-los13

Any suggestions are greatly appreciate it

Pics of your assembly would be appreciated, but my guess is maybe the 2" spacer might've been installed upside down and causing binding?

Or maybe if you purchased the knuckle and LCA separately, does the taper correctly match the knuckle? S13 vs S14 etc

[thermogod]

small, horrible question - why isn't my 100x100 profile pic showing up? it's under the size and dimension limit.

[kanyedian]

Originally Posted by thermogod

small, horrible question - why isn't my 100x100 profile pic showing up? it's under the size and dimension limit.

Hmm.. Check your settings by clicking

Quick Links → Edit Options → On the left side → Profile Privacy

And is your setting for Profile Picture set to Everyone?

This is one route I thought of to help your situation :think:

I think sometimes if the data file is too large it won't work despite being within the pixel size specifications. I do however see your profile pic when I visit your profile.

[burnsauto]

Can I put an S14 SR crank pulley on an S13 SR? I know the power steering pulley has one less rib on the S14, but other then changing that, should everything line up?

[Kylerkickass240]

Does anyone know if JDM s13 door panels are the same as USDM ones? As in, will they fit the same on USDM doors? Looking on YAJ and they appear the same to me unless I'm missing something obvious.

[e1_griego]

Window controls and stuff are going to be flipped.

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by Kylerkickass240

Does anyone know if JDM s13 door panels are the same as USDM ones? As in, will they fit the same on USDM doors? Looking on YAJ and they appear the same to me unless I'm missing something obvious.

they are the same, however... brackets are reversed on door panels, and the harnesses are mirrored obviously.

[AKADriver]

RHD S13 door panels aren't drilled for a passenger side grab handle, but that's probably a plus.

[LoSt180]

What's a recommended way to rebuild/rekey all of the locks? Nissan used to sell lock kits with a new key to replace all of them, but looks to be discontinued.

I found new ignition and trunk lock cylinders online, but nothing for the doors and trying to avoid have 3 keys for one car.

Ignition on wife's S14 is getting worn where the key falls out, and on my daughter's S13 one of the door locks are pretty jacked up. So would be looking to do this on both models, if possible.

[burnsauto]

Originally Posted by LoSt180

What's a recommended way to rebuild/rekey all of the locks? Nissan used to sell lock kits with a new key to replace all of them, but looks to be discontinued.

I found new ignition and trunk lock cylinders online, but nothing for the doors and trying to avoid have 3 keys for one car.

Ignition on wife's S14 is getting worn where the key falls out, and on my daughter's S13 one of the door locks are pretty jacked up. So would be looking to do this on both models, if possible.

Any decent lock smith will be able to do this pretty quickly. Re-pinning isn't a hard job, but it's one of those jobs where experience pays off, and you don't really want to screw around with your locks on cars that actually get driven. They shouldn't charge you too much for a simple job, especially if you do the hard work of taking out the locks for them.

[AKADriver]

I've done it a couple times. If you're just doing two locks I'd DIY.

Buy the replacement cylinder

Take out the cylinder you're replacing

Now you can either carefully disassemble the old cylinder and read the numbers from each tumbler, or you can figure out what the code is supposed to be from the old key itself

Carefully disassemble the new cylinder, reassemble with new tumblers to match the old key code (you need "X123" or "DA25" tumbler kit for both S13 and S14)

Install it in the car

I'd replace the keys at the same time, just get new keys cut to the old code so you don't have to mess with the original good locks at all. Honestly I'd do that first as a sharp new key can fix a lot of "loose lock" problems.

[270R]

what's the latest and greatest in RB swap mounts that place the engine low and back, r33 subframe or 240sx sub frame. I'm checking the RB fact but nothing but a bunch of dead links.

[Thursday7]

Are S13 diff bolts specialized in that I should only use S13 diff bolts? I would be happy to buy generic grade 10.9 M12x1.25 bolts in the correct length, but the stock bolts have pointy tapered ends (at the tip of threads) that may have a function I shouldn't overlook?

[deolio]

Originally Posted by Thursday7

Are S13 diff bolts specialized in that I should only use S13 diff bolts? I would be happy to buy generic grade 10.9 M12x1.25 bolts in the correct length, but the stock bolts have pointy tapered ends (at the tip of threads) that may have a function I shouldn't overlook?

I think it just makes it easier to center the captive nut. I've been using generic bolts for years with no issue.

[Thursday7]

Originally Posted by deolio

I think it just makes it easier to center the captive nut. I've been using generic bolts for years with no issue.

Ah bingo. I forgot the captive nuts were not welded and are just contained. Thanks.

[thermogod]

do i really need an IACV harness for a KA?

KA24DE vert. IACV is literally not hooked up in any way. on cold starts, the car hates idling. needs throttle to keep it at idle. after a few seconds on throttle, it'll idle just fine.

idle does drop when i turn on the headlights but i think that's a ground issue.

[Thursday7]

Originally Posted by thermogod

do i really need an IACV harness for a KA?

KA24DE vert. IACV is literally not hooked up in any way. on cold starts, the car hates idling. needs throttle to keep it at idle. after a few seconds on throttle, it'll idle just fine.

idle does drop when i turn on the headlights but i think that's a ground issue.

If I'm understanding correctly - If you want your IACV to function, yes it needs to be plugged in lol. Not having an IACV could be 100% of the reason for your cold start issue. People delete the IACV all the time and compensate with the throttle wheel stop screw (or in extensive cases a standalone paired w/ DBW). But most, including myself, recommend keeping it if at all possible.

[Ripzsaur]

Just did my gas tank—1995 S14—car is venting pretty heavily from the gas cap. About 5-6 seconds of venting pressure on an empty tank after driving. 75-80 degrees. I know the check valve can be stuck closed, and that some pressure is normal. But how much pressure is too much?

[thermogod]

rear subframe bushings on S13 - what size hole saw do i need to drill the metal rings out? everyone says, get a hole saw, drill them out....WHAT SIZE!? AHHHHH

[Thursday7]

Originally Posted by thermogod

rear subframe bushings on S13 - what size hole saw do i need to drill the metal rings out? everyone says, get a hole saw, drill them out....WHAT SIZE!? AHHHHH

Hole saw is just for cutting the rubber out so you can access the metal sleeve with a hack saw/Sawzall.

I forget what size the hole saw I bought was, I just measured before going to the hardware store. Last time I tried being a civilized human and used a hole saw, it kept slipping and/or not cutting well (see: user error) and I just end up burning out all the rubber -- I've used fire every time I've done subframe bushings.

[deolio]

Originally Posted by thermogod

rear subframe bushings on S13 - what size hole saw do i need to drill the metal rings out? everyone says, get a hole saw, drill them out....WHAT SIZE!? AHHHHH

I've just used a sawzall to cut the connected sections of the rubber, then make a relief cut or two in the metal sleeve and whack it with a hammer.

[thermogod]

Originally Posted by deolio

I've just used a sawzall to cut the connected sections of the rubber, then make a relief cut or two in the metal sleeve and whack it with a hammer.

thank you! big fan of your coupe i read the whole thread lol.

thursday, thanks for the answer.

one final question, sorry. does anyone with a non-abs S13 SE (17mm rear sway bar diameter) replace their rear sway bar bushings with aftermarket - or is it just generally accepted that prothane/energy suspension is out of stock EVERYWHERE and Powerflex doesn't offer the right stuff?

[AKADriver]

Prothane's own website shows the 17mm kit (141121) is in stock, but double check that you don't have 15mm. I wanna say the 17mm rear bar came on the '89-'90 Suspension Package/SE and the '91-'93 SE/XE incl. convertible had the 15mm unless you had HICAS. My '93 FSM only lists 15mm and 21mm but I do remember my '90 FSM showing 17mm.

[allntrlundrgrnd]

Hey guys, been a while. Can anyone confirm possible setups for 5 lug hubs on an abs equipped 180sx?

I would like to retain ABS and am seeing conflicting information how to achieve this while going 5 lug. I plan on keeping the stock brake caliper setup. I've read for s14 5 lug hubs you also need to swap the spindle and other suspension components which I would rather avoid.

Has anyone used aftermarket hubs and swapped ABS rings onto them successfully? I've reached out to Enjuku, FR Sport, 240sxconversions, and Drift HQ and getting different answers. Thanks in advance

Here she is!

[AKADriver]

Ask GKTech as they actually make the hubs they sell. All the hubs I've seen, even the no-name china ones, do have the "step" where the tone ring presses on but no telling if they machined it correctly.

I saw your post on reddit and all the responses there were of course unhelpful and wrong. Press the S14 ball joint into an S13 lower arm and you DON'T need to change anything else (other than the spindle and the lower strut bolts) or change the geometry.