i broke my subframe stud HELP! - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

RHDintegXSI · 12-27-2006, 06:05 PM

in attempting to install subframe spacers in my s13 i broke one of the studs to the subframe. the problem is, i believe its welded to the shell as i cannot get to the other end of it.

pics are worth a thousand cursing words

if anyone has any idea how to fix this i would greatly appreciate it

johngriff · 12-27-2006, 06:12 PM

cut the section out, put a new thread pictch stud through, but it will have to be longer. Sandwich the stud in by two 6"x6" plates, like installing a rollcage. You can probably bolt in, but welding is alot better.

Yes curse words plenty.

Lith · 12-27-2006, 06:13 PM

the stud isn't actually welded to the body. It is pressed in and you can take it out. However, it's a bitch and you would have to cut a little piece of metal out from under your rear seats to take the bolt out.
A friend of mine was in the same situation as you and he basically hammered the stud out (with a LOT of force).
You could also weld in a new stud in the same spot, but you would have to cut that one out first.
Either way you will have to completely take the subframe out to do all this. That is, if you want to fix this properly.

johngriff · 12-27-2006, 06:16 PM

had bad luck repressing these in, they just spun when attempting to reinstall the nut.

chmercer · 12-27-2006, 06:44 PM

maybe you could drill out the rusty stud and tap the hole for a bolt? maybe? throwing out ideas.

johngriff · 12-27-2006, 07:09 PM

that is a good one, but then i would be worried about how well of a tap you are going to get out of it, because id/od issue. If you are pimp shit, you could probably fill it with tig or mig, then redrill, then retap, that might come out clean.

DoriftoPnoy · 12-27-2006, 07:28 PM

haha that's cool. i know someone with a s13 and rhd DA. thot you were him but looks like your in san deezy. yea try drilling out the stud with a reverse drill bit (not sure if its threaded in there to do that....) and get a tap and die set. shit works wonders when i strip the theads on some bolts...

RHDintegXSI · 12-27-2006, 09:34 PM

PHP Code:



haha that's cool. i know someone with a s13 and rhd DA

haha sounds like he has really good taste in cars j/p

anyhow this is where i stand after a couple of hours and a whole lotta sweet talking

i had to drill a 2" hole to gain acces to the top of the stud.

its FINALLY out!

that thing is huge (thats what she said)... i hope i can get a replacment at the stealership

i hope noone else has to go through the pain in the ass i had to. if anyone could get me a part number on the part that would be great. i have no idea how to find a parts list/diagram

smelly240 · 12-27-2006, 09:55 PM

i would press it in and nail er with the mig so she dont turn - and go back to town - get a 2in rubber plug like some trucks have in their beds for the holes the chassis harness goes through - or somethin from home depot to cover that hole

or if u wanna be all martha stewart u can like cut a peice of foam or a hard sponge to put in there :P

S13 Charlie · 12-27-2006, 09:58 PM

Find a user by the name of Justified 2.4. He works at a dealership here in So Cal. He helps out with all kinds of oem replacement parts. Glad to see you got this sorted out without too much trouble.

spinktodo · 06-03-2007, 04:48 PM

If anyone knows how this repair went or if that stud is available from Nissan, please let me know ASAP. I broke the very same bolt tonight and I'm searching for solutions... I'm pretty pissed off but I guess it could be worse. Luckly I have a spare beater Buick for times like this, but it still sucks ass... My shells so clean and I haven't had any problems with thing seizing thus far, so I can't believe this happened...

Thanks,

Jordan

ho1ywars · 06-03-2007, 06:16 PM

cut the stud right after it tapers to a thread. pick up and 3/8 - 16 tap. drill out the entire stud straight down the center and tap it. go to the local hardware store and pick up a 3/8 harden bolt. when your looking for bolts your going to find that you cant get one that is entirely threaded. so you have to drill some clearence into the stuff to make up for the part of the bolt that isn't threaded.. if this makes any sense.

i launch at 4.5 grand at the track and have not had a problem yet..

spinktodo · 06-03-2007, 07:10 PM

That sounds a lot harder than getting the replacement stud and pressing it in... Can you not order a replacement stud? Also, wouldn't pressing the old bold out and welding a new bolt in work?

roycenagger · 06-03-2007, 08:04 PM

Go to Carfiche.com:
http://carfiche.com/fiche009/
Plug in 4-E-13
See if that looks like what you're after. I can't be sure.
Here are the numbers I got:
75660-42F00
75661-42F00
75650-42F00

-Royce

spinktodo · 06-03-2007, 08:16 PM

Hmm, I'm not sure of what I'm looking at since these drawings are kinda bad, but I'm thinking it's 75662 and 75663... I'm not seeing the part numbers you're referring to...

roycenagger · 06-04-2007, 09:56 AM

You have to click on the 'down' to scroll to the prefix number listed on the diagram.
Click on the drawing to enlarge the diagram.

The rear studs appear to be prefix number 74870.
Then scroll down until you find 74870.
To the right will be the complete part #.
Click on the page to enlarge for easier reading. (Click a second time for max zoom).

-Royce

*swayray* · 06-04-2007, 12:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chmercer

maybe you could drill out the rusty stud and tap the hole for a bolt? maybe? throwing out ideas.

that worked for me too...

spinktodo · 06-04-2007, 12:28 PM

Well, I called the dealer and it would appear that they don't just sell the stud alone, either that or they can't find it or something.... So that pretty much sucks, I guess the plan at this point is to knock the old stud out, find a nice grade 8 bolt and put that in... but I have a few questions...

What's the huge advantage to drilling and tapping the hole for the new bolt? Why cant I just get something in the same length and pitch and put that in, then just weld it at the top?

jc · 06-04-2007, 12:55 PM

Good luck with your endeavors. I was in a similar predicament awhile back with a hatchback shell I was building up. In the end I found it not worth the effort and sold the thing off and moved on to a better coupe shell.

*swayray* · 06-04-2007, 01:03 PM

there is no advantage... if you can still get something in the same length and pitch and put that in, then just weld it at the top... then do it...

mine completely broke and screwed up the hole which is why i had to tap a bigger hole and use a thicker stud...

spinktodo · 06-04-2007, 01:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jc

Good luck with your endeavors. I was in a similar predicament awhile back with a hatchback shell I was building up. In the end I found it not worth the effort and sold the thing off and moved on to a better coupe shell.

Dude, why do people feel the need to say shit like that? If you're not going to help me than don't talk... My shells clean as hell, one bolt broke... It happens... The fact that you gave up because one bolt broke up shows a lot about your car knowledge...

jc · 06-04-2007, 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spinktodo

Dude, why do people feel the need to say shit like that? If you're not going to help me than don't talk... My shells clean as hell, one bolt broke... It happens... The fact that you gave up because one bolt broke up shows a lot about your car knowledge...

LOL. I didn't say you should sell your shell, just was saying what I did.

The hatchback shell I had was from Mass. and had terrible corrosion issues to begin with and in the strip down process to renew the chassis the bolt broke and in a sense broke the camel's back as well.

I realize you're angry but I was actually encouraging you to continue; sorry if you didn't get it.

babowc · 06-04-2007, 02:12 PM

hm..
i have this same issue, except on the rear stud.

obviously, rear studs arent like the front two.
and i'm stumped.

eastcoastS14 · 06-04-2007, 02:16 PM

what did ppl use to get these bolts out in the first place? I was putting all my weight into mine and it wouldnt budge at all

spinktodo · 06-04-2007, 02:24 PM

I haven't actually gotten mine out yet... I'm kinda worried about that part as I'm sure it's stuck pretty good. My Dad had a good idea though; get a punch or bolt about the same size as the stud, then then put it up inside the bushing on the stud... then use a jack and push the stud up that way... use the weight of the car to force it up... That might work.

babowc · 06-04-2007, 02:43 PM

probably just a BFH and plenty of lube and torch if necessary.

spinktodo · 06-04-2007, 02:49 PM

I dunno, I'm a little hesitant to use the torch seeing as the gas tank is kinda close and i tend to get carried away with fire...

shinhed · 06-04-2007, 03:18 PM

Hurry and get that stud out, so that you know how and then, get a replacement from the junkyard.

spinktodo · 06-04-2007, 03:32 PM

i think ill just do the grade 8 bolt thing... getting a 2nd hand stud is just asking for it to break again someday... grade 8, new, with a little got on anti seize = nice!

*swayray* · 06-04-2007, 03:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eastcoastS14

what did ppl use to get these bolts out in the first place? I was putting all my weight into mine and it wouldnt budge at all

wd40 - impact gun set to full... which is how i broke one of my studs...

12-27-2006, 06:05 PM	#1
RHDintegXSI Leaky Injector Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: san diego Age: 39 Posts: 84 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	i broke my subframe stud HELP! in attempting to install subframe spacers in my s13 i broke one of the studs to the subframe. the problem is, i believe its welded to the shell as i cannot get to the other end of it. pics are worth a thousand cursing words if anyone has any idea how to fix this i would greatly appreciate it __________________ 96 Mitsubishi Eclipse sold 92 RHD converted Integra current 02 Honda Accord V6 current 89 Nissan 240sx Coupe current YES my other cars a HONDA

12-27-2006, 06:12 PM	#2
johngriff Post Whore! Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Long Beach, CA Posts: 4,103 Trader Rating: (4) Rides Gallery: johngriff Feedback Score: 4 reviews	cut the section out, put a new thread pictch stud through, but it will have to be longer. Sandwich the stud in by two 6"x6" plates, like installing a rollcage. You can probably bolt in, but welding is alot better. Yes curse words plenty. __________________ [email protected]

12-27-2006, 06:16 PM	#4
johngriff Post Whore! Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Long Beach, CA Posts: 4,103 Trader Rating: (4) Rides Gallery: johngriff Feedback Score: 4 reviews	had bad luck repressing these in, they just spun when attempting to reinstall the nut. __________________ [email protected]

12-27-2006, 07:09 PM	#6
johngriff Post Whore! Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Long Beach, CA Posts: 4,103 Trader Rating: (4) Rides Gallery: johngriff Feedback Score: 4 reviews	that is a good one, but then i would be worried about how well of a tap you are going to get out of it, because id/od issue. If you are pimp shit, you could probably fill it with tig or mig, then redrill, then retap, that might come out clean. __________________ [email protected]

12-27-2006, 07:28 PM	#7
DoriftoPnoy Zilvia Addict Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: SoCal 818 Posts: 715 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	haha that's cool. i know someone with a s13 and rhd DA. thot you were him but looks like your in san deezy. yea try drilling out the stud with a reverse drill bit (not sure if its threaded in there to do that....) and get a tap and die set. shit works wonders when i strip the theads on some bolts... __________________

12-27-2006, 06:13 PM	#3
Lith Zilvia Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: NYC Posts: 153 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	the stud isn't actually welded to the body. It is pressed in and you can take it out. However, it's a bitch and you would have to cut a little piece of metal out from under your rear seats to take the bolt out. A friend of mine was in the same situation as you and he basically hammered the stud out (with a LOT of force). You could also weld in a new stud in the same spot, but you would have to cut that one out first. Either way you will have to completely take the subframe out to do all this. That is, if you want to fix this properly.

12-27-2006, 06:44 PM	#5
chmercer BANNED Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: texas! Age: 38 Posts: 3,288 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	maybe you could drill out the rusty stud and tap the hole for a bolt? maybe? throwing out ideas.

12-27-2006, 09:34 PM	#8
RHDintegXSI Leaky Injector Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: san diego Age: 39 Posts: 84 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	PHP Code: `haha that's cool. i know someone with a s13 and rhd DA` haha sounds like he has really good taste in cars j/p anyhow this is where i stand after a couple of hours and a whole lotta sweet talking i had to drill a 2" hole to gain acces to the top of the stud. its FINALLY out! that thing is huge (thats what she said)... i hope i can get a replacment at the stealership i hope noone else has to go through the pain in the ass i had to. if anyone could get me a part number on the part that would be great. i have no idea how to find a parts list/diagram __________________ 96 Mitsubishi Eclipse sold 92 RHD converted Integra current 02 Honda Accord V6 current 89 Nissan 240sx Coupe current YES my other cars a HONDA

12-27-2006, 09:55 PM	#9
smelly240 Nissanaholic! Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Philaburbia Age: 46 Posts: 2,137 Trader Rating: (4) Feedback Score: 4 reviews	i would press it in and nail er with the mig so she dont turn - and go back to town - get a 2in rubber plug like some trucks have in their beds for the holes the chassis harness goes through - or somethin from home depot to cover that hole or if u wanna be all martha stewart u can like cut a peice of foam or a hard sponge to put in there :P

12-27-2006, 09:58 PM	#10
S13 Charlie Zilvia Addict Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: San Diego Posts: 716 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	Find a user by the name of Justified 2.4. He works at a dealership here in So Cal. He helps out with all kinds of oem replacement parts. Glad to see you got this sorted out without too much trouble.

06-03-2007, 04:48 PM	#11
spinktodo Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Michigan Posts: 26 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	If anyone knows how this repair went or if that stud is available from Nissan, please let me know ASAP. I broke the very same bolt tonight and I'm searching for solutions... I'm pretty pissed off but I guess it could be worse. Luckly I have a spare beater Buick for times like this, but it still sucks ass... My shells so clean and I haven't had any problems with thing seizing thus far, so I can't believe this happened... Thanks, Jordan

06-03-2007, 06:16 PM	#12
ho1ywars Leaky Injector Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Trenton, New Jersey Posts: 127 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	cut the stud right after it tapers to a thread. pick up and 3/8 - 16 tap. drill out the entire stud straight down the center and tap it. go to the local hardware store and pick up a 3/8 harden bolt. when your looking for bolts your going to find that you cant get one that is entirely threaded. so you have to drill some clearence into the stuff to make up for the part of the bolt that isn't threaded.. if this makes any sense. i launch at 4.5 grand at the track and have not had a problem yet..

06-03-2007, 07:10 PM	#13
spinktodo Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Michigan Posts: 26 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	That sounds a lot harder than getting the replacement stud and pressing it in... Can you not order a replacement stud? Also, wouldn't pressing the old bold out and welding a new bolt in work?

06-03-2007, 08:04 PM	#14
roycenagger Join Date: Dec 2001 Posts: 12 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Go to Carfiche.com: http://carfiche.com/fiche009/ Plug in 4-E-13 See if that looks like what you're after. I can't be sure. Here are the numbers I got: 75660-42F00 75661-42F00 75650-42F00 -Royce

06-03-2007, 08:16 PM	#15
spinktodo Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Michigan Posts: 26 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Hmm, I'm not sure of what I'm looking at since these drawings are kinda bad, but I'm thinking it's 75662 and 75663... I'm not seeing the part numbers you're referring to...

06-04-2007, 09:56 AM	#16
roycenagger Join Date: Dec 2001 Posts: 12 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	You have to click on the 'down' to scroll to the prefix number listed on the diagram. Click on the drawing to enlarge the diagram. The rear studs appear to be prefix number 74870. Then scroll down until you find 74870. To the right will be the complete part #. Click on the page to enlarge for easier reading. (Click a second time for max zoom). -Royce

06-04-2007, 12:28 PM	#18
spinktodo Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Michigan Posts: 26 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Well, I called the dealer and it would appear that they don't just sell the stud alone, either that or they can't find it or something.... So that pretty much sucks, I guess the plan at this point is to knock the old stud out, find a nice grade 8 bolt and put that in... but I have a few questions... What's the huge advantage to drilling and tapping the hole for the new bolt? Why cant I just get something in the same length and pitch and put that in, then just weld it at the top?

06-04-2007, 12:55 PM	#19
jc Leaky Injector Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Las Vegas, NV Posts: 85 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Good luck with your endeavors. I was in a similar predicament awhile back with a hatchback shell I was building up. In the end I found it not worth the effort and sold the thing off and moved on to a better coupe shell. __________________

06-04-2007, 01:03 PM	#20
swayray Premium Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: torrance Posts: 1,017 Trader Rating: (23) Rides Gallery: swayray Feedback Score: 23 reviews	there is no advantage... if you can still get something in the same length and pitch and put that in, then just weld it at the top... then do it... mine completely broke and screwed up the hole which is why i had to tap a bigger hole and use a thicker stud... __________________ http://www.thenismoshop.com

06-04-2007, 02:12 PM	#23
babowc Post Whore! Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: G.NET Posts: 2,659 Trader Rating: (9) Feedback Score: 9 reviews	hm.. i have this same issue, except on the rear stud. obviously, rear studs arent like the front two. and i'm stumped.

06-04-2007, 02:16 PM	#24
eastcoastS14 Post Whore! Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: the land of snow potholes and no tracks Posts: 3,984 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	what did ppl use to get these bolts out in the first place? I was putting all my weight into mine and it wouldnt budge at all

06-04-2007, 02:24 PM	#25
spinktodo Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Michigan Posts: 26 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I haven't actually gotten mine out yet... I'm kinda worried about that part as I'm sure it's stuck pretty good. My Dad had a good idea though; get a punch or bolt about the same size as the stud, then then put it up inside the bushing on the stud... then use a jack and push the stud up that way... use the weight of the car to force it up... That might work.

06-04-2007, 02:43 PM	#26
babowc Post Whore! Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: G.NET Posts: 2,659 Trader Rating: (9) Feedback Score: 9 reviews	probably just a BFH and plenty of lube and torch if necessary.

06-04-2007, 02:49 PM	#27
spinktodo Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Michigan Posts: 26 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I dunno, I'm a little hesitant to use the torch seeing as the gas tank is kinda close and i tend to get carried away with fire...

06-04-2007, 03:18 PM	#28
shinhed Zilvia Addict Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Austria Posts: 954 Trader Rating: (6) Feedback Score: 6 reviews	Hurry and get that stud out, so that you know how and then, get a replacement from the junkyard.

06-04-2007, 03:32 PM	#29
spinktodo Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Michigan Posts: 26 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	i think ill just do the grade 8 bolt thing... getting a 2nd hand stud is just asking for it to break again someday... grade 8, new, with a little got on anti seize = nice!