2JZGTE Swapped S-Chassis thread

[BadazzSr20]

ok i need some help guys... i have a check engine light on and im trying to pull the codes to see what they are. i dont have a diagnostics box i dont know if ben from freed engineering if he by passed this and used my stock diagnostics box. i dont remember seeing this box on my harness when i sent it out.

so i have no box is there away to check the codes without the box?

[Flicktitty]

Has anyone ever replaced the lower oil pan "gasket" on there 2JZ swapped s13/s14? Or do you need to pull the motor to do it?

[kaking]

Originally Posted by florante rea

^^^oh snap another 2j powered 240

2j/sr powered porch for now ;-)

[2muchboost]

Flick not sure how much of a headache it is to do with motor in but it was a breeze with the motor on a stand.

[Mr. Phonso]

Originally Posted by BadazzSr20

ok i need some help guys... i have a check engine light on and im trying to pull the codes to see what they are. i dont have a diagnostics box i dont know if ben from freed engineering if he by passed this and used my stock diagnostics box. i dont remember seeing this box on my harness when i sent it out.

so i have no box is there away to check the codes without the box?

I dont think that the diagnose box on the harness is used for checking codes.

[RaNMaN]

Originally Posted by Mr. Phonso

I dont think that the diagnose box on the harness is used for checking codes.

yes it is. don't you guys ever read the toyota supra user manual for help with these issues? here is part of the section copied verbatim about checking diagnostic codes.

"The diagnostic trouble code can be read by the number of blinks
of the malfunction indicator lamp when TE1 and E1 terminals on
the data link connector 1 or 2 are connected. When 2 or more
codes are indicated, the lowest number (code) will appear first..."

this is why i always recommend connecting the ecu power and grounds properly so that diagnostic codes are stored into the ecu memory and not wiped out every time you turn on/off the vehicle.

Originally Posted by DallasTXjdm

Just curious which standalone are you guys using?

ProEFI
Haltech
AEM
Motec

i'm running the Haltech PS2000 and i love it. i got a good deal on it brand new with a flying lead harness and then rewired the entire engine. i also relocated the battery and the underhood fuse/relay box into the trunk. everything is connected and working properly including the speedometer and tachometer without the use of any dakota digital boxes or additional wiring devices. after dealing with random ignition issues i just ended up buying some teflon coated wire and some new connectors, plugs, and seals for all of the coilpack and igniter connections and then rewired all of that using the high temp teflon cable.

also fyi, not too long ago i was able to get the 3.69 ratio ring and pinion out of a q45 r200 differential to fit and work in my stock s14 housing by taking about a million measurements then using custom pinion washers together with an OBX LSD. the 3.69 gearing is excellent when matched with the R154 however i am still considering moving up the earlier q45 differential with 3.54 ratio and using the beefier q45/z32tt 5 bolt axles etc. if i find a good deal on a v160 i am going to get it, the R154 is sloppy kind of weak in my opinion.

i highly recommend the haltech ecu for several reasons. it is relatively budget friendly easy-to-use. i am in the process of hooking up a good but cheap vw fuel pressure sensor so that the haltech will shut down the engine safely should fuel pressure ever drop below a certain threshold. for the ecu, haltech 3.5 bar map sensor, and haltech boost controller i think i paid somewhere around $1900. i have heard that the haltech can also be connected to a flex fuel sensor so that you can run E85 however i have not tried it nor do i plan to anytime soon.

[RaNMaN]

Originally Posted by BadazzSr20

ok i need some help guys... i have a check engine light on and im trying to pull the codes to see what they are. i dont have a diagnostics box i dont know if ben from freed engineering if he by passed this and used my stock diagnostics box. i dont remember seeing this box on my harness when i sent it out.

so i have no box is there away to check the codes without the box?

you can probably jumper the cables at the ecu to be able to read the codes with your check engine light. i have not done it myself but if i have some time this week i'll look into the wiring diagrams and will let you know what i can figure out. it's always good to hear that there's another 2jz 240 running around in FL, good luck!

[jdm2191]

Originally Posted by Flicktitty

Has anyone ever replaced the lower oil pan "gasket" on there 2JZ swapped s13/s14? Or do you need to pull the motor to do it?

On my 1JZ there wasnt a actual "gasket" I just used Black FIPG, I'd pull it easier IMO Good luck

[Mr. Phonso]

Ok good to know. I thought that diagnostic port was only for bypassing modules such as the fuel pump ecu to check if they are working or not.

[jackal264]

is there any downside to going with the vvti motors?

[alcolade]

So i figured out a little issue i had with my Injector resistor for 1-2-3 cylinders.

Its running on all 6 now! Ill try to get a video tonight of it.
Waiting for my shipment from DriftMotion to come in so i can put the radiator in and put it down to try driving it!



Little preview shot from last night with alot more parts on it.

Its running a stock Aristo ECU with SAFC thats doing nothing. I put 42# top feed injectors in to get it running hence the need for resistor packs.

[pg240]

has anyone ran the v160 6 speed tranny in their car yet? if so how does it fit and what kind of mods need to be done differently then the r154

[Deftec]

Flick, just loosen the motor mounts and raise the engine. Still sucks getting to the back bolts but with a wobble you can do it.

[DallasTXjdm]

Originally Posted by Flicktitty

If money allowed a ProEFI would have been in the car without a doubt.

I am right there with you bro. It boils down between ProEFI and Haltech right now.

Originally Posted by jdm2191

... In for pics of your engine

Will do, I will keep you posted!

Originally Posted by RaNMaN

i'm running the Haltech PS2000 and i love it. i got a good deal on it brand new with a flying lead harness and then rewired the entire engine. i also relocated the battery and the underhood fuse/relay box into the trunk. everything is connected and working properly including the speedometer and tachometer without the use of any dakota digital boxes or additional wiring devices. after dealing with random ignition issues i just ended up buying some teflon coated wire and some new connectors, plugs, and seals for all of the coilpack and igniter connections and then rewired all of that using the high temp teflon cable.

i highly recommend the haltech ecu for several reasons. it is relatively budget friendly easy-to-use. i am in the process of hooking up a good but cheap vw fuel pressure sensor so that the haltech will shut down the engine safely should fuel pressure ever drop below a certain threshold. for the ecu, haltech 3.5 bar map sensor, and haltech boost controller i think i paid somewhere around $1900. i have heard that the haltech can also be connected to a flex fuel sensor so that you can run E85 however i have not tried it nor do i plan to anytime soon.

Very nice! This is some good information. You got one heck of a deal for all of the Haltech goodies!!! Do you plan on getting the attractive RacePak too? Do you have any pictures of your setup?

[CrazyIvan]

Originally Posted by Flicktitty

Has anyone ever replaced the lower oil pan "gasket" on there 2JZ swapped s13/s14? Or do you need to pull the motor to do it?

Just did this job last week, had to lift the motor and drop the subframe a little...

[nu_born]

This is a great thread, super informative...huge thanks to Flicktitty for starting this and everyone else for providing so much in depth info; I was contemplating a 1J, but now have thoughts of just springing for the 2J swap in my s13 coupe and have been doing some research.

From what I understand any MKIII Supra w58 trans bolts up to this engine with no modification. In my research I stumbled upon something interesting, there is a difference in the w58 that is pre 86 as opposed to the post 86 Supra namely the plate at the end.



It extends in much the same way the shifter extension part that Tech2 sells does. Here's a pic of a w58 on the right next to an r154 trans.


I'm on a bit of a budget and will be going with Xcessive's JZ mount kit and with that in mind it would seem that with their mounts allowing adjustment to some degree of the engine/trans assembly along with the way the '86 and up 58 trans extends back there wouldn't be any need to drop 3 hunskies on that Tech2 jazz, would there?

I apologize if this is a herp-derp question, but was wondering if anyone has had any experience or could chime in on this theory? Looking at Tech2's unit that extension piece is pretty long, I'm not sure if those xcessive mounts will be able to adjust that far back.

[florante rea]

No need for shifter extension on w58. Direct bolt on, gl with ur build!

[nu_born]

That's awesome news, thanks for the input! With a sweet thread like this I don't think I'll need much luck! lol

[florante rea]

Go to supraforums, lots of useful info, lol.

[JDM SPUG]

The W58 is much weeker than the R154 and can barely handle 350WTQ

[nu_born]

Yeah, I've read some mixed reviews on this; some say the 58 sucks ass and other say it's not bad up to a certain HP range. The general consensus though is that the 154 is the trans to go for, but I'm going to be running this thing at stock power for some time; that and I just don't have the money to fork out for an r154. w58s are between 150 and 175 at the local pick-a-part here, I've contemplated scooping a reman as well, as I've found that even those are cheaper than used 154s I've seen online.

[Mr. Phonso]

Is there anyone here using a w58 in their 240sx 2jz or 1jz? My theory is with our lower curb weight compared to supras maybe we wont be breaking w58s like they do.

[nu_born]

That's a good theory, but I'm not sure it would be a matter of curb weight more than how it's driven/abused. If the 58 is as weak as they say, a few hard drift events might be enough to do it in, but who knows. I'm going to be using a w58 for my 2j and when it pops I'll be sure to report back my findings lol...

[Deftec]

I mentioned this earlier lol. I've managed to shell 2 r154's with the stock 2jz, but with my current setup(585hp) the trans that is in it has held up fine, although this time around I'm not slamming gears and beating on it.

[bullfrogg0]

I have a w58 in my coupe and albeit non turbo now, but it has had the gears banged on a regular basis as well as I've put 3 nitrous bottles thru it using a 120ish shot with no ill effects. My car has a fidanza aluminum flywheel and a 6 puck sprung hub clutch, 4.36 gears and a steel driveshaft

[RaNMaN]

Originally Posted by DallasTXjdm

Very nice! This is some good information. You got one heck of a deal for all of the Haltech goodies!!! Do you plan on getting the attractive RacePak too? Do you have any pictures of your setup?

No plans to get the RacePak since the dash gauges are all working accurately. I picked up a BMW 335i recently that I would like to do some mods to it so it's all budget depending really. I have to admit that the speedometer is only accurate because I'm running the same gear ratio as the older model supra turbo that the R154 transmission came out of (~3.7). If you're running the stock 4.08 ratio then the speedometer will read approximately 10% too high.

With the Haltech it is a simple 1 wire connection and 1 parameter adjustment to get the tachometer working perfectly. Essentially I tell it that I want it to be a 4 cylinder output signal instead of a 6 and it works perfectly, pretty easy stuff really.

I have a few pictures of my setup from when I was rebuilding the engine but I do not really have any recent pictures. I will take some better ones soon and will post them for you to see, it all came together quite well. It's pretty clean under the hood and in the trunk but I still have a few pieces to put back into the interior to make it look stock. I really don't mind it the way it is right now but my buddies who are super anal about that stuff keep telling me to "finish it up and make it look right" so that's what I plan to do.

I really can't say enough good things about the Haltech, especially if you like tweaking with some of the parameters yourself. I would be happy to send you a good base map to get your car running and as long as you have a wideband and some knowledge about tuning and you should be good to go. Nothing against the ProEFI though, I would have gone with it if I were going to be running lots of E85 but realistically my car is 95% a street car and I don't have a good consistent enough local supply.



before the rebuild:



after the rebuild:

[alcolade]

Got my car on the road this weekend. Alt wasnt charging so got a new one yesterday and put it in. didnt drive it again yet tho.

Heres a vid of it running on battery.


Im going to try to get some better clips of it.

Its a 3" exhaust back to the dual 4" tip blastpipe.
Low boost on stock tune with a t61 single.

Car feels awesome and cant wait to feel it with battery getting charged.

hopefully this weekend ill get some vids of it on track doing its job!

[nu_born]

I love the sound of these things...so godlike...

[Pinggg]

^^ Sounds pretty good.

[nsain]

Just stumble across some very useful aristo 2jz wiring info and thought I shared it with you guys, hopefully the link works

wilbo666 [licensed for non-commercial use only] / 2JZ-GTE JZS147 Aristo Engine Wiring