Turbo Flange Gaskets (T25/28/3/4/whatever)

[upSLIDEdown]

Originally Posted by projekt_s13

I just used the red thread locker,and its holding up.

That shit melts away to nothing. It definitely doesn't hold up to the kind of heat a turbo puts out.



Just thought of this one too. With studs, you have to worry about 2 things.

1. The stud backing out of the manifold
b. The nut backing off of the stud

What about drilling the threads out and using a bolt/nut, and then drilling the bolt/nut for safety wire? Then the nut can't back off, and the entire thing can do nothing but spin, if it moves at all. I like that idea the best so far I think.

[upSLIDEdown]

So I ordered an OEM flange gasket and an OEM outlet gasket from Courtesy. Hopefully be here by mid-next-week. I'm still undecided as to whether or not I should use it, or use the Rutland 77. Any other input on any of this?

[upSLIDEdown]

Also, any idea what the torque specs are on the 4 flange nuts?

[surge s14]

Use the ultra copper it work damn good we used it on a friend's gm syclone and his turbo mustang ill keep using it for sures. Also get some thread locker tight'n that sh*t.

[burnsauto]

Originally Posted by upSLIDEdown

Also, any idea what the torque specs are on the 4 flange nuts?

tight is tight with those guys, just as long as you have the locking plates on the bolts...you won't have any problems


OP: Honestly, just go with an oem gasket. I've blown a few different ones, used a few different types, and the oem ones are the best. Get nothing thats a composite gasket (like the cheap ones you get with megan crap). God forbid a nut vibrates free, the gasket will blow apart before you even know what has happened. At least with the OEM metal ones, you can retighten the nut when you're on the side of the road, and it won't leak. As of right now, Im using a copper gasket from the head to the manifold, and an oem t2 flange gasket for the inlet, and its worked out really well.

There's a reason why Tomei gives only OEM gaskets with their products. ..or just be a ballar and machine both the flanges perfectly smooth so you don't even need a gasket.

[upSLIDEdown]

Yeah. I ordered an oem gasket. I think either would be fine as long as everything stays tight. I had the lock tabs on and somehow still had trouble. I really think im gonna drill out the threads, use bolts and drill/safety wire the nut/bolt combos together. At least i know it cant budge then.

[Def]

Just put new distorted thread locknuts on there and you're good to go. I don't use the bend over plates that come stock either. Just replace the nuts everytime I take the turbo off and I'm good to go. A big pack of like 50 nuts was maybe $10 at McMaster-Carr.

[upSLIDEdown]

Originally Posted by Def

Just put new distorted thread locknuts on there and you're good to go. I don't use the bend over plates that come stock either. Just replace the nuts everytime I take the turbo off and I'm good to go. A big pack of like 50 nuts was maybe $10 at McMaster-Carr.

Yeah i thought about that. What about the studs backing out though? Guess i could still drill it out and use bolts and those locknuts

[sblack13]

I just use the OEM gaskets
those paper gaskets with the manifold kits
are a no no.

[SoguRacing]

Originally Posted by upSLIDEdown

Also, any idea what the torque specs are on the 4 flange nuts?

I just did mine and i believe that its around 21 to 24 foot pounds on those 4 nuts. as for the nuts that "wont back out" you can get them at frsport.com for $1.50 a piece. they work wonders as well as empty your wallet when you're using them all over your exhaust piping.

[hitman]

most infallible method?
turbo? weld it to the manifold
wastegate? weld it to the manifold
done!

[sblack13]

lol that would work but no thanks.

[upSLIDEdown]

Originally Posted by hitman

most infallible method? turbo? weld it to the manifold wastegate? weld it to the manifold done!

lol. Thats what a buddy of mine said. Thats what he did on his CA. Its pretty much down to oem, Rutland stove gasket cement, or ultra copper. Whatever i use, im gonna drill out the threads and use bolts and safety wire the nuts or use distorted thread lock nuts.

[Def]

Originally Posted by upSLIDEdown

Yeah i thought about that. What about the studs backing out though? Guess i could still drill it out and use bolts and those locknuts

I've never had a stud back off, but there isn't much you can do for them besides tacking them on the backside.

The nuts are M8x1.25mm IIRC.

[Def]

Same nuts work on the turbo outlet too, I replace them all whenever I pull the turbo.

[superJoy]

I may be wrong but I think they're M8x1.25?

In any case. Home Depot stocks the distorted thread nuts that fit for 1.50$ each. I'm using those + Nissan gaskets + eBay manifold and no leaks yet.

[upSLIDEdown]

Yeah. I tried to tighten the nut on the front drivers side nut. Looked like a gap there. Might have been from having no gasket in there. It tightened a bit, then stripped. I think I'll be safe with bolts and distorted thread lock nuts. Just gotta decide on the gasket/rutland/ultra copper.

[Def]

Originally Posted by superJoy

I may be wrong but I think they're M8x1.25?

In any case. Home Depot stocks the distorted thread nuts that fit for 1.50$ each. I'm using those + Nissan gaskets + eBay manifold and no leaks yet.

Thinking about it, that actually sounds right. I'll edit my post.

You can get 50 of them from McMaster-Carr(Class 8 - like grade 5, fine for this usage) for round about $10 or so. Plenty to replace everything that gets hot whenever you pull the turbo off.

[upSLIDEdown]

Which lock nuts did you use? They have 5 different distorted thread lock nuts.
If there's room, I'd rather use the flange nut, but I don't know if there is. There's also the centerlock, toplock, and oval lock with conical top. The flange type are also oval lock...

[WILDACEX187]

is there a part number for the manifold nut locking tabs?

[upSLIDEdown]

Ended up getting some of these from a local fastener shop. Conical top oval top thread locknut.

[Def]

I use oval tops usually, they seem to hold better than center punched or ovaled ones. It's what Nissan used on most suspension components stock.

[upSLIDEdown]

Originally Posted by Def

I use oval tops usually, they seem to hold better than center punched or ovaled ones. It's what Nissan used on most suspension components stock.

I'm confused. I assume you meant conical for one of those...

I'm still up in the air on whether to use the OEM gasket, the Ultra Copper, or the Rutland 77. I think the Rutland 77 would be better than the Ultra Copper, simply because it's good up to 2000* and the Ultra Copper is only good to 700*. I dunno though.

[undesiredshoe]

Originally Posted by upSLIDEdown

Good to hear. So did you use it with no gaskets, just a bead of Rutland 77, slap em together, wait an hour, and then start it?

Also, what manifold are you using? Cast, or stainless?

No gasket, straight up metal to metal. As long as your flanges are relatively flat, you should be fine. Im using a mild steel log manifold and whatever the turbos made out of...cast iron?? But yea, just run a bead, tighten, wait a bit, and then heat it.

[upSLIDEdown]

Originally Posted by undesiredshoe

No gasket, straight up metal to metal. As long as your flanges are relatively flat, you should be fine. Im using a mild steel log manifold and whatever the turbos made out of...cast iron?? But yea, just run a bead, tighten, wait a bit, and then heat it.

How tight did you torque them down? Im also considering the stock gasket with spray copper on both sides of it. I really don't know what to do. I just don't wanna have to do it again.

[Def]

Originally Posted by upSLIDEdown

I'm confused. I assume you meant conical for one of those...

I'm still up in the air on whether to use the OEM gasket, the Ultra Copper, or the Rutland 77. I think the Rutland 77 would be better than the Ultra Copper, simply because it's good up to 2000* and the Ultra Copper is only good to 700*. I dunno though.

Conical top.

Use a gasket, I've never seen one seal up that well without one. Even if your flanges are flat, you'll still have some leakage area.

[upSLIDEdown]

Got my gasket today. I think I'm gonna go ahead and use it, with a thin layer of spray copper on each side of it.

[DJ_Sunrise]

Time and time again.. this fact is always true.. OEM IS THE BEST. Nothing, and I mean NOTHING compares to OEM quality. Of course gaskets keep blowing out. How many of those people have their exhausts properly mounted? How many of you actually mount the DP to the transmission? Fix yo' shit right, and put OEM parts on your cars. There's no need for all that goop... do the job right the first time.

-Bart

[SoSideways]

Yeah I ended up ordering the entire gasket set from WestCo Nissan. Yay for back ordered gaskets, I will now have to wait 45 days before tossing the new turbo on.

On the bright side, the conical top lock nuts that I bought from McMaster-Carr is here. 1 pack of 50 for less than $10 shipped. Rock out with your cock out with all these nuts in your hands lol

[steve shadows]

Use metal multilayer if they have it or oem style + copper spray.

copper rtv gunk will not withstand extended periods of 1000 degrees C.