mgps13 build thread

[mgps13]

Aristo JDM engine, R154 out of an MKIII, 1jz bellhousing , Z32 na vlsd differential, r32 skyline CV axles, r32 skyline seats,


New home


Chassis: 91 240 that was picked up for $150 with a blown KA
Sprayed single stage black for the exterior, and bed liner for the interior floor pan











Weight reduction:
Some of the things to get down pretty low are not very safe for a street car. Off the top of my head this one has:
* Unneeded bracket removal throughout, even the tack welded ones
* Gutted dash, AC delete
* No insulation / sound dampening (added bed liner to the floor pan once it was stripped)
* No audio
* No front bumper support
* Custom fabricated rear bumper support, more like a bar (this is probably not safe with the stock gas tank)
* Custom front chassis harness (literally lighting and headlight motors only)
* Custom minimal rear harness
* Custom power supply routing / fuse box
* Antenna delete
* Manual seat belts from a 180sx (deleted all of the auto seat belt stuff)
* Custom ECU harness
* Carbon hood
* Smaller battery mounted on the rear passenger corner
* No interior panels except the dash, none (sprayed it all black so it doesn’t look like shit)
* No 2jz AC compressor / bracket, (shorter belt)

[TurboTiger]

Looks like it will be a solid build. Should be drive able soon?

[DILLONDILLONDILLON!]

THAT ESCALATED QUICKLY!! lol great job dude keep it up
whats next ??

[mgps13]

Actually I am cheating, this is from back in the day. I was waiting for the thread to open up so I can catch up to current. There is a duplicate thread on supra forums because of the JZ, but i figured since I am starting to focus more on the chassis that I should be over here as well.

Ok so here it goes:

[mgps13]

Valve seals, Titan 264 cams, knock off Greddy plenum (get to that again later), treadstone t4 manifold, T04S (because i had one ), Billet Tbelt tensioner bracket




powder coated crossmembers and control arms. fabricated a "Power Brace", Energy Suspension full kit, TEIN Springs, 8AN fuel lines, custom fuel pump hanger (running 1 aeromotive stealth for now, but I should be able to fit 3 on the hanger if needed)




Ran the setup for 10K or so, first with a Spec clutch and then with an ACT setup. Then one day on a high rpm shift into 3rd:
THRUST WASHER FAILURE

[mgps13]

After the thrust bearing failure on the aristo bottom end I stole the heart of a lexus for a block and crank. The last setup didnt look too bad, but I did not want to risk it. At a minimum it would have required adding material to the crankshaft thrust surface. I will use the NA block and crank for the base of my build up.


Check out that Tbelt^, this dude was running on faith for sure


So the lower end will go as follows:
* Complete proper cleaning (all oil gallery balls removed)
* ARP main stud kit
* Line hone
* Bored (20 over/86.5mm)
* Manley I beams
* CP pistons (9:1 compression, upgraded wristpins)
* Modified oem oil pump

[mgps13]

After the thrust washer failure I decided to go for less clamping force which meant a multi-disk clutch. Ended up going with an exedy twin disk intended for the 1jz.


Tore down the stock valve train.


Soda blasted the head to get it ready for the build up:






My kid is going to handle the valve lashing for me:


The head build up will include:
* Toyota Shimless Buckets 13751-46200 5.40mm (24)
* Ferrea Comp Plus Valve F1498P (x12)
* Ferrea Comp Plus Valve F1499P (x12)
* Ferrea Beehive spring S2021 (x24)
* Ferrea Titanium Retainer E12029 (x24)
* Ferrea Valve Guide VG1035 (x12)
* Ferrea Valve Guide VG1034 (x12)

[mgps13]

Full gasket kit, modified oil pump, ARP head studs


Sport 2000: The custom ecu harness I fabbed has a breakout near the ecu so I can switch between different units with just 6 Deutsch connectors. ( I will show all that when I get around to installing everything again)


(MR2 shimless bucket conversion, machined billet locks) vs (stock lifter, shim / stock locks)



Pulley:

[mgps13]

Ok so this is a little vague, but it might help others who are considering fabricating an ECU harness. I will elaborate on this more once I get everything back together.

Essentially I created a new harness from scratch using new Toyota and Deutsch connectors wrapped in Techflex braided wire cover. I also used MIL spec shielded wire for the crank, cam, and knock sensors. The harness has a breakout near the ECU that allows you to switch between ecus without unplugging anything else. I also added breakouts for an Apexi AVCr and a Zeitronix wideband controller.

The pics below are from the planning of the harness, I will post some pictures of the actual harness when I pull it out of the car again. I ran the harness for about 1500 miles with good results so far.

Some notes:
Toyota Color: Wire color/pin from stock Aristo Ecu harness
Engine Color: Wire color in my fabricated harness
Haltech Color: Sport 2000 flying lead harness wire color

NOTE: Ignore the pin numbers in the second picture. The tables shown in the bottom image is how I actually laid the harness out.

[mgps13]

(OEM) vs (Ferrea stock sized comp plus, behives, titanium retainers)

[mgps13]

[mgps13]

Finally got some time to get a few things done:



Went with a modified GTE oil pump from Powerhouse:


#1 oil pan prepped as follows: (soap/water, aluminum acid wash, soda blast, wash well again, WD40 on bare alumium surfaces to prevent oxidation, 500deg cermic paint for external surfaces only):

[mgps13]

The head was setup as follows:
* Toyota Shimless Buckets 13751-46200 5.40mm (24)
* Ferrea Comp Plus Valve F1498P (x12)
* Ferrea Comp Plus Valve F1499P (x12)
* Ferrea Beehive spring S2021 (x24)
* Ferrea Titanium Retainer E12029 (x24)
* Ferrea Valve Guide VG1035 (x12)
* Ferrea Valve Guide VG1034 (x12)

[mgps13]

[mgps13]

Starting to get excited...

From my last setup:
Titan 264 cams (9.35mm lift)
Titan cam gears
Billet t-belt tensioner bracket
New Gates racing t belt
I also tack welded the CPS trigger wheel onto the crank timing gear

[mgps13]

Terrible photos, but you get the idea.

Finished up the monstrosity of an intake that I linked to earlier in the thread:



Ended up just cleaning the intake up and grinding off the spot for the greddy name plate. I also removed a few unneeded tabs from the lower runners. Got lazy and sprayed it with high temp black paint:


I'm not going to run a filter bracket, so I just used a T fitting off the pressure sensor port for the turbo oil feed. Hard to see in this pic...

[mgps13]

ARP 1jz flywheel bolts
Exedy Twin Disk Hyper (1JZ/r154)

[mgps13]

I still have not finished working the OBX manifold, but I wanted to see it on the motor. The turbo will need to be reclocked from my last setup and I will be fabricating a new DP and some minor intercooler piping. I am planing to break in the motor with the cast manifold for simplicity's sake.

[mgps13]

3am... 30 min tasks always turn into an 1.5 hrs. My transmission cross-member makes it a pain to align the drive train, but not enough to make me feel like re-fabricating it. I also noticed that the drift motion poly mount I bought for the r154 has started to wear a bit. Its not separating, but it is looser than it should be. My solid engine mounts might be putting a lot of stress on it, but I am not sure.

[mgps13]

[mgps13]

*Fabricated a breakout harness for the Haltech. (my harness is modular, see post #19)



* Flashed a firmware update to the ECU
* Created a custom calibration map for my Zeitronix wideband (my model does not have a linear output)
* Loaded a base map from Haltech

Started first try and idled prefect. Most of the A/F ratios were pretty spot on under light load and cruising, but I did have some lean spots getting into boost. Probably because of the head work and cams I assume. Tuning the map was easy even by myself as I could just review a data log after a quick run.

The Haltech S2000 has to be the smoothest experience I have had with any stand alone or piggy back to date.

Next will be injectors, then a larger turbo (s366 is looking quite tempting @ $600)

[mgps13]

Went back and forth on deciding whether to pay a lot more for the 1300s, but in the end I decided to remain realistic about my power goals. FIC 1100s were also considered, but I got a really good deal on the ID's so...

Still need to fabricate the lines once a few additional fittings come in, but it should not be too bad.

[mgps13]

sorry for the terrible cell phone pics:

OBX divded header cleaned up and braced, Precision 46mm wg flange welded on




S366






3.5" exhaust


ID1000s, GM 3 bar map sensor




Getting closer to somewhere...

[mgps13]

16psi, 93pump, timing is still moderately conservative...

Cant get the smile off my face, I know its not much for a 2j, but it just feels nice to see it all come together.

[mgps13]

I need to change a few things in the rear of the car to get it to launch, but it was fun either way. Running out of 4th gear around 130mph, but I shifted too early on this run anyways.

[mgps13]

OK, so the thread is current now. My next project is going to be a complete redo of the rear sub-frame. I am still trying to piece everything together right now, as I don't want to be down while things are being powder coated etc.

[mgps13]

(tire diameter 25in, 5th gear ratio .753, final ratio 4.08, rpm 6750)=~163 mph

^ I do not condone this type of thing without proper chassis preparations, but this was done safely without endangering the public. The car pulled hard all the way, outside of melting 4th @ 80mph.

Time to invest $$ for rear traction. Next will be sub-frame bushings, camber arms, wider rubber, etc.

[ayrtonlucyk]

incredible.

[Hoonigan19]

sick build man

[mgps13]

Got invited to a local (unsanctioned) runway event that was a lot of fun. I left the car on 10psi, so I guess it was making somewhere in the 400s. The cops ended up coming later since someone probably called like a little b*&%$.