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Old 11-19-2010, 08:47 PM   #3451
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hey guys. i've been having a problem with my ka24e not starting some times. sometimes i'll start it and it'll die if i don't give it gas for a few seconds. other times it doesn't want to start at all and it doesn't only do it on cold starts either.

i don't know if this will help but...
-getting shitty gas mileage (40-50 mile 1/2 tank street drving and no i don't drive fast)
-slow response when i give it gas
-has new fuel filter and fuel lines
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Old 11-19-2010, 09:02 PM   #3452
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KAE and KADE lower harness the same?
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Old 11-19-2010, 09:16 PM   #3453
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10w40

but is there a reason you think you need a different viscosity oil?
Just the fact that my engine has a good amount of miles on it. Just wondered if changing would be beneficial.
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Old 11-19-2010, 09:49 PM   #3454
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Just the fact that my engine has a good amount of miles on it. Just wondered if changing would be beneficial.
5/10w-30 is factory fill. if it's been working fine then why change. Going to a thicker oil is just a bandaid for worn bearings and rings.
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Old 11-19-2010, 11:16 PM   #3455
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Which is exactly what the problem is with most higher mileage KA's IMO.

It will be funny when people actually realize how cheap it is to rebuild a KA.
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Old 11-20-2010, 01:11 AM   #3456
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Idk if it's even possible but is it possible to run dual tunes on a Apexi FC unit to run one for 91 and the other for E85 just be switching two between different settings? Or which Management is able to do that for SR?
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Old 11-20-2010, 06:09 AM   #3457
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Okinawandrifter87 View Post
Idk if it's even possible but is it possible to run dual tunes on a Apexi FC unit to run one for 91 and the other for E85 just be switching two between different settings? Or which Management is able to do that for SR?
I don't know first hand, but, I bought an emanage blue a while back and the laptop it came with had two tunes saved to it. I'd imagine you could just switch between the two and then just readjust the airflow knobs on the unit each time.
but, as i said, i wouldn't know first hand. i never put it to use so it's just collecting dust...
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Old 11-20-2010, 09:25 PM   #3458
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Could anything negative happen if i switch to a
thicker oil?
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Old 11-20-2010, 09:44 PM   #3459
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I have 2 questions. My car (240sx) has been sitting for about 5 months, and in the 5 months, I haven't changed anything major besides the rear brakes. I changed them from sti brembos to Z32 brakes.

When I went to start the car and drive it for the first time after sitting, I had to jump it, and as soon as I turned the car off, the battery died. It ran fine, drove it up and down the street a few times, but as soon as I turned the car off the battery went dead. And it does this every time I try to drive the car. It's an Autozone Duralast battery, so could it possibly be a bad battery after sitting a few months? Or am I looking at an alternator problem or something?

I started it a few times in the driveway with no problems, it kind of started doing this randomly.

Other thing is, I have a supercharger like whining noise coming from what sounds like the rear right side of my car. It's accelerational, gets louder as I go faster.

The hub has a little play in it, but nothing serious. Old car had much more play, and didn't make this sound. I changed out the right rear axle when I swapped shells because the bearings were shot, replaced it with a junkyard axle (out of a J30 with I think like 230k on it >.<) , and when I looked under the car, theres some silver grease on the cv boot and subframe. Could it just be an axle or is it more likely to be the rear end? It didn't do this before the car sat for an extended time.

Thanks!
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Old 11-21-2010, 03:49 PM   #3460
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engine

just want to know what kind of bolt you guys use for putting the engine on the engine stand? i cant seem to find any bolts that are long and same threadpitch besides the starter bolts. any help would be great.
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Old 11-21-2010, 06:21 PM   #3461
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I have a full S14 SR AC system (engine bracket, compressor, lines, condenser, idk what else) that I just deleted out of my bay. Is it worth anything?

Im getting mixed prices and info when looking. THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU.
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Old 11-21-2010, 07:24 PM   #3462
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which brake pads give me a good locking ebrake for drifting? i have a s14 stock brakes and i already adjusted the cable to oem spec..ive heard project mu bforce and some even nissan factory pads
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Old 11-22-2010, 01:19 AM   #3463
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i've been trying to look for a old advisers thread about 1month-1yr ago selling s14 exhausts. it was a new exhuast style[brand?] from japan. i cant seem to find it since i forgot the advisor. anyone remember who it was? thanks!
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Old 11-22-2010, 01:35 AM   #3464
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i've been trying to look for a old advisers thread about 1month-1yr ago selling s14 exhausts. it was a new exhuast style[brand?] from japan. i cant seem to find it since i forgot the advisor. anyone remember who it was? thanks!
found it =p

http://zilvia.net/f/intake-exhaust/3...per-light.html
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Old 11-22-2010, 03:37 PM   #3465
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so problem still is there. I swapped out a fuel rail, injectors, and fuel pressure regulator...still having sputtering problems under accel between 1-3k.

question 1. what would foul spark plugs do in a working motor?
question 2. what happens when the car has too much backpressure?

and please...no guessing. if you have experienced it, or was involved with the experience...please help. I've changed things that we have already guessed about.
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Old 11-22-2010, 03:56 PM   #3466
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Hello, my rod bearings were bad so i bought new ones
My original ones were part number 12118-60J00
They sent me part # 12118-1N500 rod bearings
Will these work?
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Old 11-22-2010, 04:18 PM   #3467
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yes

Con rod bearing (US 0.25) Jan 1991 - Aug 1996 #12118-60J00, 12118-1N500

http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/110449...nce-guide.html
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Old 11-22-2010, 04:27 PM   #3468
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Hey guys, I have a quick question regarding the Circuit Sports braided line kit for my T28 blacktop. I have the water line connected fine for the water feed (fitting closest to the block), but the problem is the water return. The 90 degree fitting fits fine on either the water neck or the turbo side, but the straight fitting doesn't seem to want to fit anywhere. If I try to connect it to the water neck, it hits the power steering pump. If I try to connect it to the turbo side, it hits the wastegate actuator arm. I've seen on some actuators that the arm is bent in that exact location which would solve my problem, but the arm on my turbo is straight. I'm close to starting up my car after 2 months, and this is the only thing left in my way! Thanks for any help guys.

Ryan
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Old 11-22-2010, 07:54 PM   #3469
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Does this exhaust ruin the look of the car?

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Old 11-23-2010, 02:54 AM   #3470
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I think the wing is the real problem.

QUESTION:

does going super low on coilovers ( collars removed ) require the purchase of suspension arms or will oem arms suffice.
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Old 11-23-2010, 05:11 AM   #3471
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At the very least you will need a camber kit and rear upper control arms.
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Old 11-23-2010, 08:23 AM   #3472
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 240sx123$ View Post
At the very least you will need a camber kit and rear upper control arms.
RUCAS adjust the camber...

if u are going to go SUPER LOW, u need at least RUCAS and Toe Rods (for the rear to make sure ur alignment is super wacky. changing camber changes toe.
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Old 11-23-2010, 08:59 AM   #3473
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheEightyNine View Post
Could anything negative happen if i switch to a
thicker oil?
too thick...and motor wont start. the guys that have snow...usually change from one viscosity to another depending on weather.
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Old 11-23-2010, 09:01 AM   #3474
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ViciousCesar! View Post
hey guys. i've been having a problem with my ka24e not starting some times. sometimes i'll start it and it'll die if i don't give it gas for a few seconds. other times it doesn't want to start at all and it doesn't only do it on cold starts either.

i don't know if this will help but...
-getting shitty gas mileage (40-50 mile 1/2 tank street drving and no i don't drive fast)
-slow response when i give it gas
-has new fuel filter and fuel lines
car drives though...does it drive different than normal. think you an i may be having a similar problem from what it sounds like.
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Old 11-23-2010, 11:48 AM   #3475
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Quote:
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RUCAS adjust the camber...
In the rear.

And in the front, he'd need a camber kit. Or camber plates on his coils.
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Old 11-23-2010, 02:59 PM   #3476
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SofaKingFast View Post
Hey guys, I have a quick question regarding the Circuit Sports braided line kit for my T28 blacktop. I have the water line connected fine for the water feed (fitting closest to the block), but the problem is the water return. The 90 degree fitting fits fine on either the water neck or the turbo side, but the straight fitting doesn't seem to want to fit anywhere. If I try to connect it to the water neck, it hits the power steering pump. If I try to connect it to the turbo side, it hits the wastegate actuator arm. I've seen on some actuators that the arm is bent in that exact location which would solve my problem, but the arm on my turbo is straight. I'm close to starting up my car after 2 months, and this is the only thing left in my way! Thanks for any help guys.

Ryan
I think you're talking about an issue I had when I did mine, although I had earls or some other brand. The lines are designed to use a SR PS pump not a KA pump which I am going to assume you have?

I had to buy a 90. Fixed.

Look like this?



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Old 11-23-2010, 04:41 PM   #3477
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonomadrifter View Post
I think you're talking about an issue I had when I did mine, although I had earls or some other brand. The lines are designed to use a SR PS pump not a KA pump which I am going to assume you have?

I had to buy a 90. Fixed.

Look like this?



Thanks for the reply, that's exactly my problem. I'm going to pick up my new fittings today from ANPlumbing.com if anyone else is searching for this I purchased a 90 Deg. Female AN Swivel to Male (-6AN). I didn't realize there was a difference in the design of the PS pumps, as people always said they were interchangeable but I guess not in terms of clearance. Thanks for your help!

Last edited by SofaKingFast; 11-24-2010 at 01:30 AM..
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Old 11-23-2010, 04:55 PM   #3478
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fckillerbee View Post
too thick...and motor wont start. the guys that have snow...usually change from one viscosity to another depending on weather.
Ok, since theres really no issue ill just stick to the standard stuff.
thanks
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Old 11-23-2010, 05:20 PM   #3479
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanong87 View Post
RUCAS adjust the camber...

if u are going to go SUPER LOW, u need at least RUCAS and Toe Rods (for the rear to make sure ur alignment is super wacky. changing camber changes toe.
sweet, will the front need anything also?
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Old 11-23-2010, 07:29 PM   #3480
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Coilover Noob Question (I never adjusted damping settings on Megans):

But uh, on my Fortune Autos, I tried adjusting the dampening using the knobs. And I noticed that y'all use the word "clicks" when you guys are talking about how much you turned the knob.

But when I tried adjusting it, I did not hear any clicks. Are my coils different? Am I supposed to just adjust according to how many spins I put in?
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