Advice on buying a rebuilt SR20DET - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

Dempseybe · 01-05-2016, 01:19 PM

Ok, so a few weeks ago my KA24DE finally gave out. But that's ok because I've been wanting to do a SR20DET swap.

Background of me though:
I'm new to the 240 community, my knowledge is a bit below average about 240s especially JDM motors. My knowledge of mechanic criteria is about average, now I've never tore an engine completely down before so I wouldn't know what I'm looking at. I'm currently learning on my old KA but I don't yet trust myself with trying to take apart an entire SR long block.

So the SR I'm looking to purchase has been rebuilt by the owner, gaskets and bearings. But also he has put in Brian Crower stage 2 head kit, valves, springs, retainers & 264 cams, HKS cam gears, and it's fitted with a Garret T23 turbo.He told me the cams needs adjusting, his asking price is 2k. Should I send it to a machine shop to have them do a complete tear down and check everything out? Or just get the cans and timing redone. Or possibly stay away from the entire thing

zurud · 01-05-2016, 03:31 PM

Send it to performance engine builder to tear part and put it together.

Dboyizmlg · 01-05-2016, 03:33 PM

Lmao.

Sounds like a troll

Dempseybe · 01-05-2016, 03:38 PM

No troll I swear. Ok, I'll send it off. I wanted a second opinion

Dempseybe · 01-05-2016, 03:42 PM

I wanted a second opinion because I'm not sure if these are very temperamental motors that require a lot of knowledge to build and should have a paid professional recheck everything. Or if some random dude bro in a garage could build one and not worry

e1_griego · 01-05-2016, 04:07 PM

The only SRs I like to buy are 1) if I know/trust the seller or there is a documented trail of work performed. Or 2) stock motors that have never been opened up or touched internally.

I personally would never bother with something someone has touched, esp if it "just" needs XYZ to run right. If it's so simple, why hasn't the seller done it?

Dempseybe · 01-05-2016, 04:10 PM

He had it running in his 240 for track purposes but ran out of money on the whole build. His other 240 has a stock sr20 in it that he daily drives. He said this one would be too powerful to daily. Not as reliable

TheRealSy90 · 01-06-2016, 03:00 AM

Lol not with a t23 or t25 or even t28.

Croustibat · 01-06-2016, 03:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dempseybe

I wanted a second opinion because I'm not sure if these are very temperamental motors that require a lot of knowledge to build and should have a paid professional recheck everything. Or if some random dude bro in a garage could build one and not worry

EVERY engine is temperamental about its clearances, the SR is no exception. Frankly i would not buy a built engine that does not come from a known tuner, with a receipt (and even then, i would not buy one that has done less than 1000 miles, and i want to see it running in person before ...) It comes at a price of course.

Dude built it in the garage and is selling it ? Stay away, it means he knows he did some bad crap. You don't sell a built SR for 2K when that is barely the price of rods and pistons.

Croustibat · 01-06-2016, 03:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dempseybe

He had it running in his 240 for track purposes but ran out of money on the whole build. His other 240 has a stock sr20 in it that he daily drives. He said this one would be too powerful to daily. Not as reliable

He is full of shit. A built SR with a T28, not reliable ? What a joke ... that is the standard turbo on these engines ...

cbeuglas · 01-06-2016, 04:21 AM

Don't do it. Buy one from a reputable shop. I only paid $2200 shipped to my house. It was a full package and had a start warranty.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

cotbu · 01-06-2016, 08:04 PM

Zilva has gotten a lot of new members that have bought other people's problems. Fact! This could be you!

I would normally say make your own decisions, but this case right here i would tell you to walk or run! Or drive the price down so ridiculously, he would have let you walk. And if there is an inkling of negotiations in his eye's? Or an Emoji used during texting?
You now know your are getting beat for sure.

Sent from my SM-N910T3 using Tapatalk

racepar1 · 01-06-2016, 09:02 PM

Hey, I just "built" an SR that I'll sell to you for $2k. Don't mind that hole in the block, it's for weight savings...

Rusker · 01-10-2016, 08:47 PM

Stay away from this. I'd walk away from this deal if I were you.

bataangpinoy · 01-10-2016, 09:30 PM

Lots of variables. If he decided to build an SR that was in perfect condition prior to the build, it is probably fine.

Did he bother to replace the piston rings?
Did he gap them correctly?
Also, ask why he decided to throw new bearings at it. If its because it spun a rod bearing (or worse, a main bearing, and yes it happens), look/ask for information that indicates the crank was cut and rebalanced as an entire rotating assembly.

The crank, rods & pistons, harmonic balancer, and flywheel (entire rotating assembly) must be rebalanced IF:

a) The crank is cut to remove damaged bearing surface
b) The OEM supplied harmonic balancer is replaced with an unbalanced/aftermarket unit
c) Aftermarket pistons/rods are used

Very important step, and often overlooked by most guys who decide to build these engines. Can't just slap it together and go. Even if your ring gaps are perfect, even if your bearing tolerances are perfect, cams are timed and set perfect; an out of balance rotating assembly WILL fail. The engine will continue to spit bearings. Link below is for reference.

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/140...ng-assemblies/

Additionally, using aggressive clutches (usually of the unsprung variety) for clutch kicking & daily use will place undue strain on the thrust bearings and cause them to wear prematurely, which causes crank walk. And you guessed it, will cause main or rod bearing failure over long term use.

Dempseybe · 01-11-2016, 09:05 AM

Hey everyone thanks for the replies! Yea it does sound too good to be true! So I'll just buy a stock SR from a reputable shop.

Dempseybe · 01-11-2016, 09:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bataangpinoy

Lots of variables. If he decided to build an SR that was in perfect condition prior to the build, it is probably fine.

Did he bother to replace the piston rings?
Did he gap them correctly?
Also, ask why he decided to throw new bearings at it. If its because it spun a rod bearing (or worse, a main bearing, and yes it happens), look/ask for information that indicates the crank was cut and rebalanced as an entire rotating assembly.

The crank, rods & pistons, harmonic balancer, and flywheel (entire rotating assembly) must be rebalanced IF:

a) The crank is cut to remove damaged bearing surface
b) The OEM supplied harmonic balancer is replaced with an unbalanced/aftermarket unit
c) Aftermarket pistons/rods are used

Very important step, and often overlooked by most guys who decide to build these engines. Can't just slap it together and go. Even if your ring gaps are perfect, even if your bearing tolerances are perfect, cams are timed and set perfect; an out of balance rotating assembly WILL fail. The engine will continue to spit bearings. Link below is for reference.

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/140...ng-assemblies/

Additionally, using aggressive clutches (usually of the unsprung variety) for clutch kicking & daily use will place undue strain on the thrust bearings and cause them to wear prematurely, which causes crank walk. And you guessed it, will cause main or rod bearing failure over long term use.

Thank you for the feedback. I'll definitely put that in mind when having whichever SR I end up buying

SarcastaBall · 02-03-2016, 06:39 PM

This is all great advice, and will aid me in my search to buy a 240. I always skip the cars where the pics on CL show a concrete car port with an engine block sitting on it.

kyral · 02-15-2016, 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by e1_griego

The only SRs I like to buy are 1) if I know/trust the seller or there is a documented trail of work performed. Or 2) stock motors that have never been opened up or touched internally.

I personally would never bother with something someone has touched, esp if it "just" needs XYZ to run right. If it's so simple, why hasn't the seller done it?

This is the truth
I went to check out a car that just needed X to work right, so i brought X with me and installed it on the car only to find it also needed a Y and maybe a Z..

if it was so easy they would have done it already in pursuit of a quicker and more $$$ sale
And if they say they were too lazy to get around to it, what else were they too lazy to get around to doing ya know

I always see that as a red flag though im sure theres exception to the rule, i just wouldnt bank on it
SOunds like hes luring you in with the googly eye factor

01-05-2016, 01:19 PM	#1
Dempseybe Leaky Injector Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Biloxi ms Age: 30 Posts: 51 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Advice on buying a rebuilt SR20DET Ok, so a few weeks ago my KA24DE finally gave out. But that's ok because I've been wanting to do a SR20DET swap. Background of me though: I'm new to the 240 community, my knowledge is a bit below average about 240s especially JDM motors. My knowledge of mechanic criteria is about average, now I've never tore an engine completely down before so I wouldn't know what I'm looking at. I'm currently learning on my old KA but I don't yet trust myself with trying to take apart an entire SR long block. So the SR I'm looking to purchase has been rebuilt by the owner, gaskets and bearings. But also he has put in Brian Crower stage 2 head kit, valves, springs, retainers & 264 cams, HKS cam gears, and it's fitted with a Garret T23 turbo.He told me the cams needs adjusting, his asking price is 2k. Should I send it to a machine shop to have them do a complete tear down and check everything out? Or just get the cans and timing redone. Or possibly stay away from the entire thing

01-06-2016, 08:04 PM	#12
cotbu Post Whore! Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: SWFL Age: 49 Posts: 3,318 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	Zilva has gotten a lot of new members that have bought other people's problems. Fact! This could be you! I would normally say make your own decisions, but this case right here i would tell you to walk or run! Or drive the price down so ridiculously, he would have let you walk. And if there is an inkling of negotiations in his eye's? Or an Emoji used during texting? You now know your are getting beat for sure. Sent from my SM-N910T3 using Tapatalk __________________ LoverTechnologies "Half Broken Things!"

01-10-2016, 08:47 PM	#14
Rusker Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Washington Posts: 351 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Stay away from this. I'd walk away from this deal if I were you. __________________ 1990 S13/SR20

01-05-2016, 03:31 PM	#2
zurud Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: evansville, in Posts: 391 Trader Rating: (4) Feedback Score: 4 reviews	Send it to performance engine builder to tear part and put it together.

01-05-2016, 03:33 PM	#3
Dboyizmlg Nissanaholic! Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: SoCal (I.E.), San Berdino, Colton, Redlands Posts: 1,675 Trader Rating: (18) Feedback Score: 18 reviews	Lmao. Sounds like a troll

01-05-2016, 03:38 PM	#4
Dempseybe Leaky Injector Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Biloxi ms Age: 30 Posts: 51 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	No troll I swear. Ok, I'll send it off. I wanted a second opinion

01-05-2016, 03:42 PM	#5
Dempseybe Leaky Injector Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Biloxi ms Age: 30 Posts: 51 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I wanted a second opinion because I'm not sure if these are very temperamental motors that require a lot of knowledge to build and should have a paid professional recheck everything. Or if some random dude bro in a garage could build one and not worry

01-05-2016, 04:07 PM	#6
e1_griego Post Whore! Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Independence, Ore. Age: 39 Posts: 2,711 Trader Rating: (24) Feedback Score: 24 reviews	The only SRs I like to buy are 1) if I know/trust the seller or there is a documented trail of work performed. Or 2) stock motors that have never been opened up or touched internally. I personally would never bother with something someone has touched, esp if it "just" needs XYZ to run right. If it's so simple, why hasn't the seller done it?

01-05-2016, 04:10 PM	#7
Dempseybe Leaky Injector Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Biloxi ms Age: 30 Posts: 51 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	He had it running in his 240 for track purposes but ran out of money on the whole build. His other 240 has a stock sr20 in it that he daily drives. He said this one would be too powerful to daily. Not as reliable

01-06-2016, 04:21 AM	#11
cbeuglas Zilvia Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: United States Posts: 266 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	Don't do it. Buy one from a reputable shop. I only paid $2200 shipped to my house. It was a full package and had a start warranty. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

01-06-2016, 09:02 PM	#13
racepar1 Post Whore! Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Simi Valley, CA Age: 41 Posts: 9,006 Trader Rating: (106) Rides Gallery: racepar1 Feedback Score: 106 reviews	Hey, I just "built" an SR that I'll sell to you for $2k. Don't mind that hole in the block, it's for weight savings...

01-11-2016, 09:05 AM	#16
Dempseybe Leaky Injector Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Biloxi ms Age: 30 Posts: 51 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Hey everyone thanks for the replies! Yea it does sound too good to be true! So I'll just buy a stock SR from a reputable shop.

02-03-2016, 06:39 PM	#18
SarcastaBall Leaky Injector Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Los Angeles Age: 41 Posts: 69 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	This is all great advice, and will aid me in my search to buy a 240. I always skip the cars where the pics on CL show a concrete car port with an engine block sitting on it.