Check Engine Light Flashing

[keefus16]

check engine light keeps flashing while driving. When I speed up if goes out but when slowing down and coming to idle it flashes and tends to try to die on me when coming to a stop - i was told it was the o2 - but i think its something else - i have sr20det swap - drives fine other than that - let me know guys

[Big Zee]

is it fine at all higher speeds ? or just under accel ?

just for kicks take your o2 out and inspect it, if its uber dirty try just wiping it clean and see if it helps. if it does help, just replace it and it should be fixed.

other then that are you venting the stock bov ? that would also try to make it stall out when your coming to a stop.

[keefus16]

none of my build is stock but the engine - upgraded 550cc inj, z32 MAF, and top mount T3 turbo - the o2 I have is the one for the 300zx turbo - maybe its screwed up - is there any other kind of o2 I can run that will last - its been less than 10k miles -

[murda-c]

flashing cel means a misfire.

check coilpacks, spark plug wells for oil, injectors, stuff like that.

[keefus16]

well you would think that however it all checks out fine - it flashes while driving and goes in and out when slowing down and coming to a stop - very shitty idle or dies when coming to a stop - other than that is runs good and good power

[negrosx13]

get old school on it...pull the codes from the ecu..etc

Turn the screw...count the blinking lights....bang!

[Wolamute]

Originally Posted by keefus16

well you would think that however it all checks out fine - it flashes while driving and goes in and out when slowing down and coming to a stop - very shitty idle or dies when coming to a stop - other than that is runs good and good power

Sorry all for re-kindling a very old thread, however I have experience with this issue, should anyone want to search for something like this.

Idle issues are commonly fixed by troubleshooting intake related sensor issues.
Take off your intake air filter cover. Clean the crap out of your sensors.
(MAF and IAT)

Likely you had an issue with wiring for your IAT sensor.
I just recently did a thermo change and cooling system flush in my driveway, and carelessly I fubar'ed the wires from my harness to the IAT sensor by not being careful enough to disconnect all connectors before moving my box around to get to my coolant reservoir to dump and clean it out.

Long story short I just cut away at the sensor housing to expose enough wire to resolder both wires that go from the harness to the IAT.

Reset ecu, let run for 10 minutes, turned off car, drove away.

I know my soldering job was sketchy from the start considering the amount of wire fibers snapped and their 18 year old condition.

However i know that before doing this the only codes I had were 34 and 41.

IAT and Knock sensor (caused by timing adjustment, and well, anything sensor related at all that has to do with intake can set off a knock sensor.)

Mind you while on the job doing my thermo, I happened to have a brand new amazon knock sensor and Wiring Specialties knock sensor harness sitting around, and so I swapped away just because I could.

Knock sensor is fine, IAT's wires open out while the wires jiggle, causing CEL flashing.

Check your damned lose wires, harness conditions and sensor connections.

As for the idle, id say its the MAF.

IF YOU HAVE MAF PROBLEMS AND DONT WANT TO BUY A USED MAF, DO THIS.

1. Take off your MAF housing.
2. Clean it off (the sensor itself)

USE THIS
https://www.google.com/search?q=MAF+cleaner&safe=off&sa=X&biw=1718&bih=83 7&tbs=vw:l,p_ord&tbm=shop&ei=0soHUr_WH8WQyQG2goH QAQ&ved=0CF4Quw0oAQ
3. Reset ecu
4. Test the maf

Still bad? Got soldering experience?

5. Pop out the MAF connector, breaking its 3 solder points.
6. Spray out the inside of the "square box" that holds your MAF's controller, through the hole you just created by popping off the connector. Use electronics parts cleaner.
this : CRC INDUSTRIES 05101 QD ELECTRONIC CLEANER 6OZ
7. take 3 half inch long cuts of a decent size wire, solder the pins of the connector to the 3 segments you just popped them from. (make sure to clean any debris and old solder you can before soldering your new jumper wires in.)
8. tuck in the wires (important to make sure you can before soldering)
9. re-attach the connector.
10. re-install all intake components.
11. Re-do steps 3 and 4.



Dont thank me, pass the knowledge on.