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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15.


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Old 03-11-2008, 01:05 AM   #1
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FMIC Intercooler installed, one question, many possible answers...

so its done and I have the FMIC finally installed, and it was a huge pain in the ass to fit bumper back on, but more on to my question, from the stock cold pipe, there is a nipple, that connects a vaccuumline to a wastegate actuator, or in my case, the boost controller solinoid (sp), not that i have done the install i have this vaccuum line that has no nipple to latch onto. where do i put it, what do i do with it. I know that my Boost controller will not work properly with that not connected.

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Old 03-11-2008, 01:15 AM   #2
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you need to intercept a vacuum source before the throttle body. try the nipple under the throttle body. that should work and intercept it with the boost controller solenoid then continue to the wastegate actuator.
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Old 03-11-2008, 03:22 AM   #3
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Weld a nipple onto your fmic piping, and run the vacuum line to your actuator or your boost controller.

Takes 5 mins if you have the quipment. If not go to your local weld/machine shop, and they can take care of it for you for $5-30
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Old 03-11-2008, 01:23 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoguRacing View Post
you need to intercept a vacuum source before the throttle body.
This part is true. The wastegate and boost controller needs to know how much boost is being sent to the throttle body.

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Originally Posted by SoguRacing View Post
try the nipple under the throttle body. that should work and intercept it with the boost controller solenoid then continue to the wastegate actuator.
I'm not sure I would use the TB nipple. These have different functions, like BOV, FPR, charcoal canister, etc., and should be plugged if not in use.

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Weld a nipple onto your fmic piping, and run the vacuum line to your actuator or your boost controller.

Takes 5 mins if you have the quipment. If not go to your local weld/machine shop, and they can take care of it for you for $5-30
I like this idea better. It's best to tap the cold pipe as close to the TB as possible so you have an accurate boost reading.
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Old 03-11-2008, 01:46 PM   #5
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g6civic, the nipple under the throttle body is PRE-INTAKE MANIFOLD which is perfect for a wastegate actuator. in fact its the one i use on my sr and have been using it for the past 3 years. you can use any vac source as well but the wastegate only requires positive pressure to operate, and the nipple under the throttle body is positive pressure only since its pre-intake manifold. nothing before the throttle body see's vaccume.

bov/fpr/charcoal canister use vac source. but u dont need a charcoal canister on sr20's anyway lol. so i used the big fat vac source above the throttle body for bov, skinny source above throttle body for fpr, then the small one under throttle body for wastegate.

i ran into ur same problem when doing my fmic, and this solution has worked fine for years. no xtra welding needed
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Old 03-11-2008, 02:48 PM   #6
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It may work. I never said it wouldn't.

If it makes you happy then do it, but for something as important as the wastegate I would like to do a better job than using the evap port.
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Old 03-11-2008, 03:06 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvia_S13 View Post
g6civic, the nipple under the throttle body is PRE-INTAKE MANIFOLD which is perfect for a wastegate actuator. in fact its the one i use on my sr and have been using it for the past 3 years. you can use any vac source as well but the wastegate only requires positive pressure to operate, and the nipple under the throttle body is positive pressure only since its pre-intake manifold. nothing before the throttle body see's vaccume.

bov/fpr/charcoal canister use vac source. but u dont need a charcoal canister on sr20's anyway lol. so i used the big fat vac source above the throttle body for bov, skinny source above throttle body for fpr, then the small one under throttle body for wastegate.

i ran into ur same problem when doing my fmic, and this solution has worked fine for years. no xtra welding needed
This is true.

but...When using a manual boost controller or electric. You would want to tap in a line closest to the wastegate actuator (charge side). what this process does it bleed off air to lag your wastegate actuator to stay open allowing more boost.

The reason why you would want to tap a line closest to the actuator is because it regulates and monitors boost more accurately.
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