GT2871 USERS. SR motor

[codyace]

Originally Posted by S13 curtis

how high can you turn up the fuel pressure with the nismo FPR?

It's got an adjustable screw right on top. This raises/lowers Fuel Pressure.

(this is from my turbo Altima, as it's a decent picture in relation to showing it)



That screw on top adjusts the base fuel pressure for your car.

Originally Posted by Oneoverwrx

woah....Im not trying to have a pissing match here, i read somewhere over a year ago that someone had a hard time keeping the nismo regulator to hold pressure. Not sure which forum or which thread.

Neither am I, so I excuse my tone persay -- I often type things bluntly. My point does stay the same though abotu the Nismo units. Certainly objects fail...I mean even new cars blow up...but that should not be taken for the norm.

Originally Posted by Oneoverwrx

I agree that upping the base pressure would help the issue but as stated before...im having no issues at stock pressure. If i do...i will post up.

I run stock pressure as well. That's not so much the importance of the FPR in our situation. Certainly it can help make a global correction, but the main job is to provide reliable 1:1 fuel to boost delivery (one psi of fuel per one psi of boost) compared to the stock on. Will the stock one work? Certainly, to a degree. Most stock cars won't have an issue. Some 300/400 hp guys dont' either. The fact remains that it's still a 1:1 regulator, just without adjust ability.

I think that is where we were confused with each other, honest internet mistake

Originally Posted by Oneoverwrx

Why not wish me luck and see what happens.....who here....in this thread, right now has tried this and failed???Because i have tried it...use it on every nice day and it works! When the track opens i will be able to tell you all first hand exactly what happens. Probably start with 110 octane and about 23psi and see where we go from there. If i need the meth at that point i will use it and if i dont, i wont.

My point was (again just a mis understanding on both our parts) that while you may have a stock regulator, it still raises fuel pressure 1:1 like Nismo does. The issue is, stock ones are known not to control higher pressure situations well.

And again, I never want to wish for anyones car to have an issue - in the same respect I also am not going to wish luck on a wishy washy idea - I'd rather you be safe than sorry. If it works, great. Awesome. Congrats - but that doesn't make it right foreveryone. Trust me, when I saw I sprayed a 150 dry shot through the MAF of a rental Grand Marquis, it worked....would I sugest all owners to do this? Certainly not.

[Oneoverwrx]

I now understand what you are concerned with, a failure of the stock fpr itself. I had heard nothing of its issues until now and will be sure to keep an eye on it. I have a fuel pres gauge so i should be able to watch it a little.

I agree with you on the part about not right for everyone but i also think that not everyone doing this swap, turbo, and ect are looking for 400+whp. For the people looking for 325-350 i feel this is a great budget set up. The injectors will be in a very safe range and the fpr should be fairly safe as well as i would say a 2871 on 14psi would produce close to 325 or close to.

[slider2828]

Yeah for me, I just run 740s and call it a day. I don't have an adjustable FPR, just a stock one... I have never heard of a stock one failing and I just don't want to add another degree of difficulty to tuning.... I might in the future add a nismo, but at this point running around 380hp on a dynojet... Ima cool...

BTW I just came back from the track running 18PSI all day which is my tune... Car feels too damn fast as the 240sx chassis without rollcage or welding just plain sucks.... Heat dissipation should be on everyone's list if going to the track.... but otherwise it was ok.....

[codyace]

Originally Posted by Oneoverwrx

I know understand what you are concerned with, a failure of the stock fpr itself. I had heard nothing of its issues until now and will be sure to keep an eye on it. I have a fuel pres gauge so i should be able to watch it a little.

It's not so much that they fail, is that they really don't keep up to the pace. I mean you'll never 'not' have fuel if that makes sense, but you may not have enough pressure under high boost.

Originally Posted by Oneoverwrx

I agree with you on the part about not right for everyone but i also think that not everyone doing this swap, turbo, and ect are looking for 400+whp. For the people looking for 325-350 i feel this is a great budget set up. The injectors will be in a very safe range and the fpr should be fairly safe as well as i would say a 2871 on 14psi would produce close to 325 or close to.

550's would be perfect for a 325-350 hp setup for sure, especially if they want to keep stock rails. BUt as said on here, if the owner is going to a top feed rail, there really isn't a good argument not to go 72lbs.

Originally Posted by slider2828

BTW I just came back from the track running 18PSI all day which is my tune... Car feels too damn fast as the 240sx chassis without rollcage or welding just plain sucks.... Heat dissipation should be on everyone's list if going to the track.... but otherwise it was ok.....

Thankfully you have E-85 I usually only run 12 psi on track days haha.

[slider2828]

Originally Posted by codyace

It's not so much that they fail, is that they really don't keep up to the pace. I mean you'll never 'not' have fuel if that makes sense, but you may not have enough pressure under high boost.



550's would be perfect for a 325-350 hp setup for sure, especially if they want to keep stock rails. BUt as said on here, if the owner is going to a top feed rail, there really isn't a good argument not to go 72lbs.



Thankfully you have E-85 I usually only run 12 psi on track days haha.

Hey Cody, I ain't on E85, I am running 97 octane.....

[idahotuner]

i wonder how .2 liters extra and 9 to 1 would affect spool up of a gt2871r .64 i wonder if it would gain 2-300 rpms spool up. might be worth running a .86 housing huh. thinking 810 cc injectors.

decided to go this route and just make a solid running engine then do some interior stuff and call it good on my car, until i get a house paid off. then its 2.8 liter sti time

[Oneoverwrx]

***you dont want a 2.8l sti. Stick with stock stroke, definately sleeve the motor for over 625whp, and use arp CASE bolts!!!!and some really good head studs, arpL19, or P&L has some 13mm studs out now, probably other options but i dont know them. Pm me if you want any advice, i have been down the suby road quite a few times. My best advice is forget the suby and do an evo, or build a badass SR, or anything other than a subaru. Ask any honest subaru person and they will tell you that you are handicapping yourself from the get go with that motor.

Back on topic....I would absolutely love to do some road racing in my car this year. Would definately have to switch diffs and turn the car down some but it would be a blast.

[idahotuner]

Originally Posted by Oneoverwrx

build a badass SR,

Back on topic....I would absolutely love to do some road racing in my car this year. Would definately have to switch diffs and turn the car down some but it would be a blast.

my sr i am putting together right now is a 2.2 mazworx block, last set up i posted earlier in this thread on a stock block i made 416 with a gt2871r .64

i saved everything from my last set up cept the turbo. but i think i want to run one of these again. if i got the exact same turbo i can compare the .2 extra and .5 higher compression to see the difference, just wanted to know what you guys thought about the cahnge in engine size and compression

my friends are all into "road racing" basically going out on long drives so i am
trying to get set up for that.


hey cody, which trim you running 56?

[Csomme]

So I bought my car with an SR with HKS cams, GT2871r, 550s, N62 MAF more shit, and a Power FC.

I bought the car, it had a shit tune on it and was pushing so much damn boost, so much that it lifted the head, and I didn't realize that the headgasket blew untill a few weeks later when shit hit the fan. Anywho, got it back together, and got a new base map from Steve Shadows, car was running perfect. I don't know how I never checked this, I could have sworn that I did, but I was driving down the road yesterday and I just checked my airflow settings and my Power FC was on the wrong damn MAF. wtf.

It wasn't running bad, it was running good, like perfect, however, even with the cams it never sounded like the car would "cam" at idle, it was always solid. So I changed it to the N62, and BAM. lol Fucking camming like crazy. what the hell is up with that? lol Confuses the shit out of me. lol

What that has to do with a gt2871r, not much, but I just wanted to tell you guys.

[slider2828]

You know seriously idaho if I were to do it all over again. I wouldn't do an sr... LS1 and call it a day... On track especially when its hot SR's can't run 18PSI... it would over heat for sure... I eman I have 19 row setrab oil cool and all the cooling venting and bla bla bla... still its not great..... I dunno for fun on teh street SR for sure... for track, its gotta be LS1 or somethign that doesn't create so much heat.... you can ask WhiteGLX about that....

[idahotuner]

i dont track my car though. just street and highways driving. ls1 is sickthe thought went through my head a couple times
bt i liek the sound of a 4cylinder turbo spooling

[longfellow]

You dont need 18psi on track when 14psi will do just fine. There are a lot of people who track SR cars with no real issues. I also think the Pignose front bumper creates a huge cooling problem.

[slider2828]

Originally Posted by longfellow

You dont need 18psi on track when 14psi will do just fine. There are a lot of people who track SR cars with no real issues. I also think the Pignose front bumper creates a huge cooling problem.

Uh... you telling me that I don't need the power at 18psi? why wouldn't I use it if its tuned for it?

Pignosed was gone a long long LOOOONG time ago....



Yes under panel and over panel is there too to direct air... Hoping a swirl pot will help.....

[boost]

i was at the same event with my beater s13 hatch (multi grey colored). i was wondering which car was yours. i was thinking it was the white one originally.

[slider2828]

O I remember... I am waiting for the some drifting pictures... but yeah... say wassup next time...

[longfellow]

Since you're having heat issues and don't want to lower the boost I would suggest ceramic coating as your next option to keep temps down.

A guy I know runs track days at Sebring in the middle of summer here in Florida and doesn't have too much of an issue after he ceramic coated pretty much everything on the hot-side of the motor. He said the temps in the engine bay dropped by more than 20*

You could also try running E85 since it keeps the combustion charge way cooler.

[idahotuner]

i wish we had e85 here

[S13 curtis]

Originally Posted by idahotuner

i wish we had e85 here

come down to florida

[idahotuner]

what do you guys think about the t2 gt3071r. i am seeing if they have a .64 version versus the .86. the problem i noticed with my gt2871r .64 was back pressure cause my pistons to get screwed up on the exhaust side but they were stock pistons. seems like a gt30 wheel with housings about the same size as gt2871, will flow more making a little more top end, with about the same boost response.

make about 400 to the wheels on 92 octane, with a 2.2 liter and ported head on the exhaust side. and once the center housing got spooling even if it took a littler longer it will have more rotational momentum and inertia.

[S13 curtis]

Originally Posted by idahotuner

what do you guys think about the t2 gt3071r. i am seeing if they have a .64 version versus the .86. the problem i noticed with my gt2871r .64 was back pressure cause my pistons to get screwed up on the exhaust side but they were stock pistons. seems like a gt30 wheel with housings about the same size as gt2871, will flow more making a little more top end, with about the same boost response.

make about 400 to the wheels on 92 octane, with a 2.2 liter and ported head on the exhaust side. and once the center housing got spooling even if it took a littler longer it will have more rotational momentum and inertia.

the 3071.64 will still have alot of back pressure, if anythhing go with the .86 and do an external wastegate or you can be like me and get the ATP .72 back housing

[idahotuner]

Originally Posted by S13 curtis

the 3071.64 will still have alot of back pressure, if anythhing go with the .86 and do an external wastegate or you can be like me and get the ATP .72 back housing

hmmmm is that internal or external.

if they made a bottom mount manifold that was externally gated i would like to see it.

can you give me a link to it.
yeah and i agree about the .86 being better after doing some more reading. i wouldnt mind full boost around 4200 becasue i will rev out to 8

[S13 curtis]

Originally Posted by idahotuner

hmmmm is that internal or external.

if they made a bottom mount manifold that was externally gated i would like to see it.

can you give me a link to it.
yeah and i agree about the .86 being better after doing some more reading. i wouldnt mind full boost around 4200 becasue i will rev out to 8

I upgraded my compressor housing and my exhaust housing went from the .64 to .72 external V44 backside and went to a GT3071 compressor housing.









I still havent had it mounted yet but it should be pretty fun once i get it running. especially since its running on ethanol.

[idahotuner]

Originally Posted by S13 curtis

I upgraded my compressor housing and my exhaust housing went from the .64 to .72 external V44 backside and went to a GT3071 compressor housing.









I still havent had it mounted yet but it should be pretty fun once i get it running. especially since its running on ethanol.

so is that a gt2871 wit ha gt3071 housing on the front an an atp t2 external gated turbine housing?
i cant find that housing turbine housing? how much did that whole combo cost you. if some one bought the center section, they could combine them all for about the same price as a normal gt3071 seems

[s15specR]

good stuff man, lets see that mounted!

[jspaeth]

Originally Posted by s15specR

good stuff man, lets see that mounted!

Yeah, I too would be interested to see what difference the 3071 compressor housing and 0.76 exhaust housing have on the power/spool characteristics versus the typical and 0.64 housings.

[idahotuner]

http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/230385...mm-wg-t2x.html found the link. i wonder if they will let you switch out when you order so you dont have to order both sections. i might have to call them tomorrow and ask.

[idahotuner]

CHRA - Garrett GT3071R-WG with 90 trim 56.5mm turbine wheel : atpturbo.com think i might pic up this center section, then peice it together. but ifs yours was originally a .64 a/r then it is the 84 trim, wonder waht difference the 90 trim would make

[idahotuner]

difference is the 56.5mm turbine vs the 60mm turbine
so i found this center section Garrett Turbo Replacement CHRA - GT3071R [CHRA-GT3071R] - $827.00 : Himni Racing, Turbocharger, Turbo, Garrett, Turbo Kit, GReddy, Mazda RX-7, HKS, Apexi, TiAL, TurboXS, TurboSmart, Flange, Turbonetics, Exhaust, Intercooler, ACT, Intake
combine it with Special Turbine Housing T25-EWG-44 : atpturbo.comCompressor housing for GT3071R with 71mm 56 trim wheel - 4" Inlet and 2" outlet : atpturbo.com and you pay exactly the same price asa gt3071 t2 but have a better turbo, then add in a tubular maifold, and the turbo outlet that is divdied as if it was for an internal gated turbo, seems like it would keep flow better coming out of the turbine.

i bet this set up full boost by 4000 rpm, and make a around 450 on pump gas

[sukimoto]

Originally Posted by idahotuner

difference is the 56.5mm turbine vs the 60mm turbine
so i found this center section Garrett Turbo Replacement CHRA - GT3071R [CHRA-GT3071R] - $827.00 : Himni Racing, Turbocharger, Turbo, Garrett, Turbo Kit, GReddy, Mazda RX-7, HKS, Apexi, TiAL, TurboXS, TurboSmart, Flange, Turbonetics, Exhaust, Intercooler, ACT, Intake
combine it with Special Turbine Housing T25-EWG-44 : atpturbo.comCompressor housing for GT3071R with 71mm 56 trim wheel - 4" Inlet and 2" outlet : atpturbo.com and you pay exactly the same price asa gt3071 t2 but have a better turbo, then add in a tubular maifold, and the turbo outlet that is divdied as if it was for an internal gated turbo, seems like it would keep flow better coming out of the turbine.

i bet this set up full boost by 4000 rpm, and make a around 450 on pump gas

i like this

[idahotuner]

and here you can buy the turbo for 1160 dollars. just select the correct options, i wonder if the 4 inch inlet really has any benifit over the 3. MAF to 3inch pipe, to 3 in inlet seems like would have the best flow. not to mention it would probably be cheaper.

Garrett GT3071R Ball Bearing Turbo (450 HP) [700382-3 , 700382] - $1,160.00 : Himni Racing, Turbocharger, Turbo, Garrett, Turbo Kit, GReddy, Mazda RX-7, HKS, Apexi, TiAL, TurboXS, TurboSmart, Flange, Turbonetics, Exhaust, Intercooler, ACT, Intake