Road Race setup/ Track pics

[slider2828]

Car is looking great! So all the bugs worked out now?

[Bumnah]

Love the pictures of your coming through Oak tree. F'n love VIR, great track!

[SicBastard]

What tires are you thinking about replacing the RA1s with? Are you limited by a class?

[WhiteGLX]

Bugs are not all worked out yet, those are just photos from GRM UTCC.

Only bugs are Tach signal, Tires, and shifter geometry.

I dont have an official class, and if anything better tires are just more points, but i do plan on running Hoosier R6's. I am going to break down this winter hopefully and buy a new set to use all next year, so i can stop scrounging for used tires.

[slider2828]

Hey WhiteGLX, whatcha been up to lately? Anything new?

I just upgarded to subframe risers to keep it more planted in the rear during spring compression and on NRR they have a guide for extended teh rear traction rod the 8.25 or 8.5inches... I am thinking going 8.5 inches which was suggested....

Also switching to a 4.36 rear with HLSD.... With that I kinda want more top end and might go for a ISIS intake manifold.....

Laguna Thanksgiving weekend I can't wait... Hope all is well and I am totally using your splitter as a reference, but I am really sucking at it.... I am using 1/8" oak, but thinking about doubling up for strength.... When you had an SR, how did you mount the splitter, its killing me....

[millertm]

Just wondering if any of you have done some creative things to prevent the turbo oil return hose from cracking under the heat. I have S14 SR20 with 2871r. My 4th session on track it cracked and ended my day... I installed a replacement hose with small heat shield/wrap from FRSport, which was a pain in the #$# (I need midget hands). I'm sure it's possible to install something more reliable. Anyone do something?

[slider2828]

OOO crap I gotta remember that....

I never have that problem though actually. I used a 20 year old OEM one... but I am going to replace it tonight! THanks for reminding me.....

I am going to get that oil one from kragen....

[GnarKiller]

this thread needs more life!

[slider2828]

I agree!!! But I recently basically blew up the turbo and blew up my motor......

Was racing with an instructor driving a svt cobra with slicks.... I was running stock 235 dunlop direzza starspecs and re01 255's..... was smoking him, but pull in and the turbo ate some oil and oil was lol.... starts up but but turbo is clacking against the housing and dunno about the engine...

[Imarvin240]

sick photos

[slider2828]

Here's the car like back in August. Made the splitter stronger with more bracing, but thats what the car looks like..... pretty much...

Originally Posted by Imarvin240

sick photos

[brizanden]

hey white glx. are your flares zg flares? im still kinda on the fence about them, but if thats what your running they look fine. just not too many coupes have em so hard to tell if i like them. Thought they might be too big in back

[slider2828]

They aren't they are JUN flares....

[Def]

Looks like you need some more negative camber up front.

[brizanden]

Originally Posted by slider2828

They aren't they are JUN flares....

thats what i was thinking i should go with more. So did he just run two sets of rears? i can only find rears from like rhd and shit.

[slider2828]

Originally Posted by Def

Looks like you need some more negative camber up front.

Yea those were only at 1*... Since then I changed my specs....

FCamber: 2.5*
RCamber: 2*
Front toe and castor is stock.
Rear Toe: 0.2"
Rear Tranction is something like 6.5 or something...> Got the correct measurement from NRR's excel chart. It was like +0.25"... Forgot what is base.

I don't like it so far, cause it under steers on low speed corners, but high speed its very stable.... I dunno....

Thinking going 2.5 FCamber and rear going down to 1.5*

[slider2828]

Nah I think he has a full set of JUN I am pretty sure...

[Def]

Originally Posted by slider2828

Yea those were only at 1*... Since then I changed my specs....

FCamber: 2.5*
RCamber: 2*
Front toe and castor is stock.
Rear Toe: 0.2"
Rear Tranction is something like 6.5 or something...> Got the correct measurement from NRR's excel chart. It was like +0.25"... Forgot what is base.

I don't like it so far, cause it under steers on low speed corners, but high speed its very stable.... I dunno....

Thinking going 2.5 FCamber and rear going down to 1.5*

Use these settings, you'll love it:

-3 or -3.5 deg front camber (more is better if you haven't corrected your roll center),
ZERO front toe
Front caster can be stock or a little more

Rear camber -1.5 to -1.8
Rear toe, 3/16" total

I run the same traction rod length (I think it's like 8.25" or something, a little longer than stock), the short traction rod length felt like crap.


The car will turn in way better with zero front toe and a bit more camber up front. A little less toe and camber in the rear will make the car more willing to rotate.

[slider2828]

Originally Posted by Def

Use these settings, you'll love it:

-3 or -3.5 deg front camber (more is better if you haven't corrected your roll center),
ZERO front toe
Front caster can be stock or a little more

Rear camber -1.5 to -1.8
Rear toe, 3/16" total

I run the same traction rod length (I think it's like 8.25" or something, a little longer than stock), the short traction rod length felt like crap.


The car will turn in way better with zero front toe and a bit more camber up front. A little less toe and camber in the rear will make the car more willing to rotate.

Yeah the front I haven't compensated for roll center.... Just waiting to have a lower packaged arm. I don't trust myself boring out the cups, pressing in spherical bearings and all that stuff. Yeah the car is so not rotating too much right now. Just gotta go back and tune it. LOL 3/16 is 0.18" so its close....

3* Camber? Really? hmmm I am going to reduce the rear camber and take it one step at a time.

Thanks for your suggestion.... You think I can just do like a 1/4 turn in the rear upper arms and call it a day or def do you think I should go get it done again?

Thanks again!

[WhiteGLX]

JUN flares, the fronts arnt much different from the rears and the ZG flares should work just fine. The JUN flares didnt fit that great and i cut the fronts up alot to make them fit with the other body pieces i installed.

Alignment wise:
Camber F : -3.3*
Camber R : -2.2*
Toe: 0 F/R
Car handled great at the UTCC event, i just had to play with tire pressures alot to get any real grip out of the old RA-1's.

Slider - You may want to consider a thicker stiffer material for your front splitter, it really really helps settle the car on high speed straits and higher speed corners when the splitter cant flex.

I dont have any real updates for my car besides a potential shifter fix with a different bracket which should fix the geometry issue and possibly new Hoosiers for this season since i didnt sell the car and dont need the money badly enough to part it out till next yer when i want to seriously switch to another chassis. If all goes as planned this year the car should be faster then ever before especially if i remove some more weight and get more seat time. Then possibly another UTCC entry, maybe.

[slider2828]

What are you using for material? So far I stiffened it up a LOT. The end is 1/8" oak ply and the center behind the bumper area is 1/4" oak ply with gorilla glue. I mounted it better to the chassis with thicker steel used for house framing....

In the shot above it was still 1/8" all around without anything substancial bracing...

What LCA and RLCA are you using especially for roll center correction?

[UNITEDMASTER]

Originally Posted by millertm

Just wondering if any of you have done some creative things to prevent the turbo oil return hose from cracking under the heat. I have S14 SR20 with 2871r. My 4th session on track it cracked and ended my day... I installed a replacement hose with small heat shield/wrap from FRSport, which was a pain in the #$# (I need midget hands). I'm sure it's possible to install something more reliable. Anyone do something?

Use a steal braided orkevlar impregnated hose, with the thick orange fire sleave. DONE DEAL.

[INeedNewTires]

5/8" birtch covered in resin and braced REALLY well to the chassis and the front subframe





its almost finished in these pics but you get the idea. i can literally stand on it and it doesnt flex. total weight is about 40lbs though

[slider2828]

Damn bro 40lbs on the front end hanging forward is REALLY a lot of weight... but I totally understand its a budget thing.... But yeah I have wet lay fiberglass on it as well just 1 layer... Might do a 2nd layer this month to check rigidity.... I wish I had a picture of my car from the latest iteration of my splitter, but no one was taking pictures sucks....

[UNITEDMASTER]

Shit 40 lbs.!!!! I use 1/8" end grain balsa covered with 1 layer of 10oz matt,on both sides. Same basic shape as the one above with NACA ducts towards the outside for brake ducting. NACA ducts face down & inhale from the bottom.

Get that table of the front of your car. Im just joking ,but for reals.

[slider2828]

Hey United you do anything for rear brakes cause they are cooking for rear 300 rotors....

[INeedNewTires]

yea its definitely too heavy... its a BIG splitter though, it goes back just past the steering rack to protect EVERYTHING in case a cone or something were to get stuck under there. i dont want something to hit my belts or oil pan or steering rack.

I also have aluminum plating running the leading edge about 4 inches to guard against scraping through the wood. (rubbed right through my last one till it was paper thin)

i run my car really low and i'm drifting it anyway so unfortunately i cant talk like i'm a track racer. I do however feel that in a track situation my splitter would function very well save for the added weight.

[kognition]

Take a hole saw, and go to town on a new sheet of plywood. Fill the holes with foam cutouts glued in with gorilla glue. At least try to cut that weight in half, then glass over it. Will still be very stiff at half the weight

Originally Posted by INeedNewTires

5/8" birtch covered in resin and braced REALLY well to the chassis and the front subframe





its almost finished in these pics but you get the idea. i can literally stand on it and it doesnt flex. total weight is about 40lbs though

[UNITEDMASTER]

Originally Posted by slider2828

Hey United you do anything for rear brakes cause they are cooking for rear 300 rotors....

A few Ideas I have that i have done on other cars is. Make your QTR windows out of lexan then put a clear NACA duct in it (single or dual outlet) ,then drill or cut a hole in your iner wheel well hump on the side ,from inside the car, then run your hose as needed. It will give some airflow in the general area, more than before.

Or you can mold in a NACA duct just behind where the door opens and duct it similar to the above. This is what I wanted to do to my car. Kinda like the stock duct on a MK4 supra!

[slider2828]

Originally Posted by UNITEDMASTER

A few Ideas I have that i have done on other cars is. Make your QTR windows out of lexan then put a clear NACA duct in it (single or dual outlet) ,then drill or cut a hole in your iner wheel well hump on the side ,from inside the car, then run your hose as needed. It will give some airflow in the general area, more than before.

Or you can mold in a NACA duct just behind where the door opens and duct it similar to the above. This is what I wanted to do to my car. Kinda like the stock duct on a MK4 supra!

Or what do you think about running something under the car? Like the deflectors that SPL makes or like tube mounted to the frame?