V-Mount Set-Up

[the head]

Originally Posted by MadScientist

I dont think making a Kit would be the best way to sell a V-mount... The ARC is going to cost, at least, well into the $3000 range. I have seen several other FD3S V-Mounts going for $2500+. I personally would stay away from a $1000 V-mount. Everyone wants the quality and proven performance of an ARC type set-up but NO-ONE is going to buy the ARC.

The best option is exactly as I was posting to begin with... Find the parts and do the R&D... if you dont know what your doing (or trust your skill) then get help, or don't do it. There are to many variables: KA, SR, CA, Bottom mount, Top Mount, V-mount, 7-Mount, etc...

The best part posted so far is the Griffin Radiator w/ Chevy pipes... yes it still needs modified, but thats what makes Your set-up... yours!

Peace
Drew

the only issue with the chevy rad is you need to "alter" the passenger side end tank by about a 1/4-1/2 inch to get it to fit between the S13 rails use a rubber mallet to you don't puncture the end tank...besides that all you need are some custom hoses I recommend silicone bends and some SS piping for the straight areas...this will minimize the areas that can be damaged by sharp objects. Or you can simplify and use cool flex hot rod radiator pipes then you can do almost anything with the hoses you want to and they come with SR sized reducers which you will need because the outlets on the radiators are a 1/4 or so in. larger than the inlets and outlets on the engine.

I am using the cool flex piping on my SR right now along with the chevy griffin rad I can post pics but in may be a week or two before it happens.

if you guys have any other questions about this setup just post or PM me
and for the time if nothing else dont forget to throw some rep my way

[Markovich]

while we are talking about vmounts i posted in a diff forum and it was about my cooling in the vmount and i was wondering if this info was correct i have 1 12" pull fan with no thermo i no im putting athermo as soon as i get my new radiator and licenses back
thnx

"Wow, if it's a daily driver I highly highly HIGHLY recommend running push and pull fans. I hadn't realized your setup was incomplete. My friends who are near overheating daily driving their v-mount s13 and s14 are running push-pull fans and still coming too close for comfort to severe damage from overheating. Not trying to tell you what to do, but if this is a dd, you will overheat and possibly warp the head from running solely a pull fan. If anything I recommend running a push fan because it has better cooling efficiency where it counts for a dd than a pull.

Also, do not run a stock fan on a v-mount setup!!!! They are for low horsepower cars and the thermostat is non-adjustable. That is just asking for trouble. If you are going to go the route of constructing a v-mount setup, make sure you spend your money in the right places and don't cheap out. This is not a setup that you want to run low quality on.

I recommend running a 12 or 14" Perma-cool single fan as a push fan and a FAL dual electric as a pull fan. Main reason I recommend this setup is because the Perma-cool fan has a dual adjustable thermostat which can also be adapted to the FAL (flex-a-lite) fan. Your fan setup should cost around $3-400 which is approximately what this will cost you.

What are you doing as far as ducting goes? Any pics?"

[IAM_SO_sLOw]

hey you guys..wht do you think about these radiators?
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
i dont know which one to get... the price difference is like 70$ the only thing i notice that is different is tube size "1" "1,1/4" what is the tube size?

also w/ these radiators do i still have to run a breather tank or will the circulation be good?

[Slidin240Wayz]

breather tank always necessary to get all the air out.

Tube size will most likely be size of the the outlets. SR upper is 36mm for example.

Carlos

[240silvia]

The V-Mount setup is a great way to go, extremely drifting friendly. The response with the V-Mount compared to a front mount is very nice. I guess I just like the "Bling" effect of the Front Mount. lol

-Charles

[the head]

Originally Posted by IAM_SO_sLOw

hey you guys..wht do you think about these radiators?
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
i dont know which one to get... the price difference is like 70$ the only thing i notice that is different is tube size "1" "1,1/4" what is the tube size?

also w/ these radiators do i still have to run a breather tank or will the circulation be good?

That is identical to the one I have in my car right now tube sizes are for outlet/inlet fittings look around on other sites you should be able to get that for 195-210 instead of 250 plus 20 handeling plus shipping

I am not currently using a breather tank and I dont seem to have any bubbles or pockets

[IAM_SO_sLOw]

^^
how do you like the radiator? also do you have a vmount set up?

o hmm...but they already state the inlet and outlet size
"Inlet Size: 1 1/2 in.
Outlet Size: 1 3/4 in.
Tube Size: 1 1/4 in. "

i was wondering what steps should i go about building another vmount set up the right way? like get the radiator to fit first? then duct near the radiator then get the intercooler in w/ piping and duct more?... my other set up i just pretty much eyeballed everything and did it all at once...

also do you guys know where i can get material for custom endtanks or even what material to get? does anyone know a place where i can get like thicker sheetmetal or something for a good price...homedepo sells really thin pieces.. i want something that doesnt flex as much

-thanks

[the head]

Originally Posted by IAM_SO_sLOw

^^
how do you like the radiator? also do you have a vmount set up?

o hmm...but they already state the inlet and outlet size
"Inlet Size: 1 1/2 in.
Outlet Size: 1 3/4 in.
Tube Size: 1 1/4 in. "

i was wondering what steps should i go about building another vmount set up the right way? like get the radiator to fit first? then duct near the radiator then get the intercooler in w/ piping and duct more?... my other set up i just pretty much eyeballed everything and did it all at once...

also do you guys know where i can get material for custom endtanks or even what material to get? does anyone know a place where i can get like thicker sheetmetal or something for a good price...homedepo sells really thin pieces.. i want something that doesnt flex as much

-thanks

if the outlet and inlet are already stated it is a choice between the width of the tubes in the core...instead of having four core rads griffin makes larger tubes in thier cores

i have used http://www.metalsdepot.com/ for getting my aluminum and steel for fabbing brackets and ducting

The radiator is great way better than stock and way cheaper than koyo

currently running a ducted but not Vmounted setup in my 240

[IAM_SO_sLOw]

^^
so would the 1, 1/4 be better than 1 inch?

[Slidin240Wayz]

Ignore...It's cross flow, I need downflow cores.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku



The outlets are reversed for a good reason. The radiator outlets should be pointing up so if you flip this around, you have what you need. So now there is less of a need to cut and re-weld the ends. Now I need to find out if the outlet sizes match.

Carlos

[sil_8t]

This is a nice DIY mod for people who desire quick spool like me. I would like to try that radiator + spearco core w/ custom endtanks. it just sounds so time consuming.

[Dr. Moreau]

Originally Posted by Slidin240Wayz

I think I found the correct radiator for the setup...

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku



The outlets are reversed for a good reason. The radiator outlets should be pointing up so if you flip this around, you have what you need. So now there is less of a need to cut and re-weld the ends. Now I need to find out if the outlet sizes match.

Carlos

even if they don't, they could easily be reduced w/ a little welding

[Slidin240Wayz]

I am trying to come up with a package for the S-chassis. It should be completed by the end of winter.

I will be using this IC, because the other one requires cutting into the radiator support.



Carlos

[Slidin240Wayz]

Originally Posted by Dr. Moreau

even if they don't, they could easily be reduced w/ a little welding

Not really down for more customization than need be. I am trying to keep cost down as low as possible.

Carlos

[sil_8t]

thats what i was getting at. Try to make it as DIY as possible with the least amount on fabbing. Must remember time is money.

Carlos, that would be a nice intercooler but im shooting for about 270hp max w/ t28. that IC would be a bit larger than nessesary. plus the end tanks should be going straight up (relatively speaking) right?

[Dr. Moreau]

just keep us updated carlos. btw i imagine you could also get a silicone reducer + t-bolt clamps if the inlets don't match.

also what about ducting for those w/ aftermarket bumpers w/ larger openings?

[sil_8t]

Ducting shouldnt be that hard with sheet metal on the sides. I dig that hood with ducting coming out. i personally think a vented hood is must. But def. keep this updated!

ill test the beta version if i must.....sigh.......lol

[Slidin240Wayz]

Originally Posted by sil_8t

thats what i was getting at. Try to make it as DIY as possible with the least amount on fabbing. Must remember time is money.

Carlos, that would be a nice intercooler but im shooting for about 270hp max w/ t28. that IC would be a bit larger than nessesary. plus the end tanks should be going straight up (relatively speaking) right?

just keep us updated carlos. btw i imagine you could also get a silicone reducer + t-bolt clamps if the inlets don't match.

also what about ducting for those w/ aftermarket bumpers w/ larger openings?

True. That IC about the same size if not smaller than the Greddy FMIC which ALOT of people run on their stock setups. I can go Spearco IC's but then that would cost about $3-500 more in the end.

I have looked for a reducer, but it's is difficult to find one in that small of a diameter. The smallest I have found was a 2 inch from somthing a little larger. I will keep looking for the optimal radiator. The stock size radiator is 17.25 inches tall. Since this one has to be on an angle I need something in the 15 inch range but I can't go much smaller in order to keep performance high for a daily setup.

As for the ducting, I will most likely utilize the frame rails and possible spacers to close the gap if need be.



Carlos

[Slidin240Wayz]

My OCD self can't ignore this topic. I went to make some measurements of the Koyo I have now.

Overall height- app. 21 inches

core- h x w - 14 x 25

upper outlet diameter- app 36 mm - less than 1.5 inches, more than 1.25 inches.

If you can find a radiator that has an overall height of 17-19 inches please post it up.

Carlos

[IAM_SO_sLOw]

hey carlos... would this radiator work?
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
pretty much same as the one you posted a few posts up except the outlets are on the proper side...

btw.. whats the difference between crossflow and downflow?

[Slidin240Wayz]

Originally Posted by IAM_SO_sLOw

hey carlos... would this radiator work?
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
pretty much same as the one you posted a few posts up except the outlets are on the proper side...

btw.. whats the difference between crossflow and downflow?

Hey,
This one will not work. I mentioned before the radiator will have to be flipped around so there are no air bubble on the lower radiator hose; the outlets have to be opposite the SR ones. If I can find one with middle outlets, it can be an option for both SR/KA compatability.

I searched over 100 radiators on SummitRacing...nothing.

Crossflow cores run horizontally while downflow cores run vertically.

Downflow


Crossflow


Carlos

[IAM_SO_sLOw]

what if you like reweld the lower hose to be at a 45degree angle? would that get rid of the air bubble?
does the radiators HAVE to be downflow?

[sil_8t]

http://www.siliconhoses.com/content....022S&cat=0022S
reducers are right here.

[Slidin240Wayz]

Originally Posted by IAM_SO_sLOw

what if you like reweld the lower hose to be at a 45degree angle? would that get rid of the air bubble?
does the radiators HAVE to be downflow?

It could, but that would be more fabrication which would cost more money. A lower priced radiator will help offset the customization cost. Alot of people with koyos would be without a car if it was their daily. Plus I would have easier access to the waternecks with the radiator outlets up top. I already have a plan for the upper hose(s) which should work wonderfly. As for the bottom, it should not be that difficult and I already have something in mind. I need things to have their personal space and the silicone hose setup alone is running from $100-200.

Carlos

[IAM_SO_sLOw]

o ok...hmm... i think im going to it out..by modding the lower hose... umm so would i have to use downflow radiators or would cross be fine?

[Slidin240Wayz]

Originally Posted by IAM_SO_sLOw

o ok...hmm... i think im going to it out..by modding the lower hose... umm so would i have to use downflow radiators or would cross be fine?

It might have been mentioned before. Maybe someone who knows can chime in. I really don't have time to search around right now.

Carlos

ps thanks for that webiste for the silicone hoses

[driftstyre]

Crossflow rads are fine in v-mount applications. I guess the only downside would be a smaller width core to fit the tanks on each side but it could be increased in height to compensate. Here is a Subaru we did the fabrication for in which a cross flow core was used. It has never had an issue with cooling.

[Slidin240Wayz]

Bill (!?!?!?),
I love the fabrication your shop does. I would love to stop by your shop one day. Would that setup work on a daily? Thanks for showing the radiator outlets, it has perfect for me to explain myself.


In regards to the crossflow radiator, we have 1 person with alot of experience whoe says yes, but I need that clarification on the street side of it.

If I get more positive responses for the crossflow, then we have a winner for the prototype.

Carlos

[Modern]

hey guys/girls i had a quick question about aerodynamics of this install. i was wondering about the air going under the car creating lift (red lines). if anyone could shed some light on the aerodynamic part of this install that would be great. thanks.

guilty

[Slidin240Wayz]

I don't think the radiator is solid enough to create lift. Maybe infinitismly. If you are that concerned, get a skid plate or if you are even more of a pimp, get an entire cover for the bottom; from the bumper to the firewall.

Carlos