[[Chase Bays]] S14 Brake Booster Delete Kit install (through firewall)

[anton1o]

Originally Posted by godrifttoday

I driven cars with manual brakes and in my opinion I hate them.... the only reasons I see people wanting to buy them is 1. To get more room for downpipe. 2. Cool factor... I can't imagine the fatigue a person would have on a race track. If their was somehing similar but with help of a booster that would be awesome! Other than that looks nice

I guess this is where my post is comming from, I fit into #2, but would really like for it have a good pedal feel when on the track really.

Time will tell i suppose as more and more people begin to fit them and start using them to there full extent.

[japslapsilvia]

Originally Posted by C-unit

you mean the die? I did use it for the double flare.

The lines just keep slipping. I've tighten it to the point that the lines are almost crushed..Yet. It still slips.

are you trying to do a double flare on SS line????

bc you should NOT SS line is too hard for double flare and will crack.

are you trying to do 45* flare or 37*??

[C-unit]

from What I heard, you are not suppose to do single flare on brake lines.

I was using the 45 degree one.

[dRift_g0ddess]

We did a single 37* flare and it works perfect.. all we had to flare was a stock steel hard line. The ss hardline that the kit comes with should already be flared with fittings.. you shouldn't have to tinker with it.
As for brake pedal feel, I contacted the tech Chase Bays and he said that I probably need to bleed the lines a bunch more and possibly adjust the fork that attaches to the brake pedal. I've been driving it as is and surprisingly I'm used to it. Now weather I like it or not is another story but the pedal feel is not right.. we're going to bleed it some more right now and take it out again tonight and hopefully see some improvement.

[japslapsilvia]

Originally Posted by C-unit

from What I heard, you are not suppose to do single flare on brake lines.

I was using the 45 degree one.

for mild steel lines correct.

For SS line single flare will work just fine, for example look at all the repop companies making ss lines for old muscle cars, they are all made with single flare SS line.

[dRift_g0ddess]

Alright guys, so last night we adjusted the fork that connects to the brake pedal.. we just tightened the shaft that attaches the fork and the master cylinder and brought the pedal closer to the firewall which changes the leverage a little bit.. but it definitely helped. (If you do this, be sure to adjust the brake light sensor to keep your brake lights from staying on at all times.) We also bled all lines and although there wasn't many bubbles at all, it still helped.. I still wanna bleed it again this weekend just to be sure.
I think that if you are interested in this kit, you have to accept the fact that there is NO booster so you will never get that "easy braking" again..the space issue for me was a serious problem and this kit was something that I really wanted, so the "feel" of the pedal is a minor change I have to accept and learn to adjust to. Everyone's different, I daily my car so yeah I do want something somewhat comfortable to drive, but at the same time this was the PERFECT solution to all 5 of my problems The brakes feel much better than the first test drive, I feel like I have more control.. It still takes a little more strength to stop but I think that's as good as it's gonna get for now. Hoping when I install my rear Brembos I can play with the prop valve and really fine tune everything..

[bb4_96]

Originally Posted by C-unit

are the hardlines stainless? how did you get to flare them? I have the same flaring tools and it doesn't seems to work for the stainless hard lines.

All of Chasebays kits come with hard anodized aluminum AN tube nuts/sleeves and fittings. It's all single 37degree flares. Not 45 degree SAE or bubble flares. Just simple 37 degree single flares.

It should be airly easy to flare the lines. Make sure you use a good flaring tool like the one Rigid makes that Chasebays recommends.

As for flaring:
-don't just wrench it down as hard as you can in one press it never works that way, may even work harden the flare.
-Try running the die down onto the tube a little bit at a time backing off in between. That seems to yeild the best results.
-Get some lube!
-Be sure to ream the burr after cutting.
-Practice on dummy tubing before try your first flare on the tube you just spent 3 hours bending!

Or do all your bending and mocking up then take all your lines to a hydraulic shop to be flared(usually more cost effective as the flaring/cutting tools aren't cheap). Not to mention the hydro shop is less likely to make mistakes like tool marks etc. Remember it's your brake lines.

[dRift_g0ddess]

For those of you waiting for an update:

Got the rear Brembos installed!

Everything works well.
Having the prop valve is a huge plus! Brakes feel amazing, a lot better with the rear Brembos and the prop valve adjusted. I'm pretty used to them now. Of course they're still a little tougher than with the booster but not impossible, and I'd still probably track it

Thanks Chase Bays

[Clutchkick Murphy]

I'm interested in doing this kit, I have a RHD S13 so its really not about clearence even though the lines are kinda close almost rubbing on my GReddy intake manifold. I vaccuum bled my system and the pedal feel was JUST like pushing againced a brick wall, and when I would drive down the road sometimes the front brakes would engage slightly enough where quite quickly the pads would wear down (within about 1000 miles or so I was changing pads with NO pad left)

I was hoping that the Chase Bays kit would stop this, but maybe I will just see if my booster is shot....sucks. We'll see when it comes out of storage for the spring.