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Old 07-02-2020, 10:14 AM   #1
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Originally Posted by TheRealSy90 View Post
Could also ditch the CAS entirely and do a hall effect sensor on the exhaust cam from Mazworks or Taarks/EFI Solutions.

If one were to buy everything from Link, wouldn't it already be wired with the appropriate plugs? I assumed modules and harnesses would be plug in ready and not need deutsch plugs wired on.
Its just plug and play on one end. It does come with everything.... But in case you want a disconnect on ecu side or soemthing...

That is a $500 kit to go to Hall Sensor and some people had trouble getting the calibration correct... Just trying to make 400+whp.... nothing big...
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Old 07-02-2020, 10:28 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheRealSy90 View Post
Could also ditch the CAS entirely and do a hall effect sensor on the exhaust cam from Mazworks or Taarks/EFI Solutions.

If one were to buy everything from Link, wouldn't it already be wired with the appropriate plugs? I assumed modules and harnesses would be plug in ready and not need deutsch plugs wired on.
If you're adding sensors (fuel pressure, oil pressure, oil temp, etc) via the expansion connector, then no. You have to run the expansion harness to wherever you want the sensor to go and crimp your terminals onto the appropriate wires. I'll show you exactly what I'm talking about when I get the ECU.

The expansion harness plugs in inside the ecu case, so if for some reason you want to disconnect things, it's easier to wire in a connector on the pigtail than to take the ecu case apart.

Quote:
Originally Posted by slider2828 View Post
Its just plug and play on one end. It does come with everything.... But in case you want a disconnect on ecu side or soemthing...

That is a $500 kit to go to Hall Sensor and some people had trouble getting the calibration correct... Just trying to make 400+whp.... nothing big...

Does anyone know if CAN is just 2 wires? CAN HI and LO.... I bought the AFR kit, but it doesn't come with the can harness to ecu...
Yes, CAN is just can high and can low. Twist the pair and use a 120ohm terminating resistor at the connection. This is how I wire in the AEM wideband.
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Old 07-02-2020, 11:39 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX View Post
If you're adding sensors (fuel pressure, oil pressure, oil temp, etc) via the expansion connector, then no. You have to run the expansion harness to wherever you want the sensor to go and crimp your terminals onto the appropriate wires. I'll show you exactly what I'm talking about when I get the ECU.

The expansion harness plugs in inside the ecu case, so if for some reason you want to disconnect things, it's easier to wire in a connector on the pigtail than to take the ecu case apart.



Yes, CAN is just can high and can low. Twist the pair and use a 120ohm terminating resistor at the connection. This is how I wire in the AEM wideband.
How many plugs are available on the expansion harness? How many things can communicate over CANBus and free up expansion plugs?
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Old 07-02-2020, 12:24 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheRealSy90 View Post
I guess I don't really see how horsepower applies to the quality of the crank/cam timing signals. It's going to rev the same range at 200hp or 500hp.

Same could be said for a $500 rom tune ecu or a couple thousand on a standalone and sensors. Could make 400 on a rom tune lol.
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How many plugs are available on the expansion harness? How many things can communicate over CANBus and free up expansion plugs?
Higher horsepower cars not only move through the rev range faster and possibly rev higher, but they also have larger camshafts which can affect timing drift. Adding a crankshaft sensor eliminates the variability of the timing chain and also provides a true sync signal.

The S13link has two expansion connector slots.
One includes:
3 digital inputs
1 Analog voltage input
2 temperature sensor inputs
a +5v sensor supply
and sensor ground
The other:
4 auxilary outputs
and 4 analog voltage inputs

So technically you can add two temp sensors, five pressure or position sensors, three digital inputs (hall effect sensors, etc), and four auxilary outputs (injectors, solenoids, etc). Bear in mind that the MAF sensor already accounts for your IAT and MAP sensor as both of those can be spliced in there. It also has an onboard 4 bar MAP.

The S15Link also has two expansion connectors, but they're slightly different but I don't feel like typing it out.

Canbus is only limited by the overall length of the wires really. The only things I know of that can use canbus currently are PDM's, AEM wideband controllers/gauges, and digital dashes. Maybe there are other things I'm not thinking of.
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Old 07-02-2020, 02:03 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX View Post
If you're adding sensors (fuel pressure, oil pressure, oil temp, etc) via the expansion connector, then no. You have to run the expansion harness to wherever you want the sensor to go and crimp your terminals onto the appropriate wires. I'll show you exactly what I'm talking about when I get the ECU.

The expansion harness plugs in inside the ecu case, so if for some reason you want to disconnect things, it's easier to wire in a connector on the pigtail than to take the ecu case apart.



Yes, CAN is just can high and can low. Twist the pair and use a 120ohm terminating resistor at the connection. This is how I wire in the AEM wideband.
So in order to terminate it I gotta put the 120Ohm resistor across the pair or in line with one of the CAN HI or CAN LO wire?
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Old 07-02-2020, 11:11 PM   #6
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So in order to terminate it I gotta put the 120Ohm resistor across the pair or in line with one of the CAN HI or CAN LO wire?
Across the terminals. Pro tip: If using a DTM connector, slide the wires through the seal, crimp the resistor in the terminals with the wires, and then slide everything in the connector housing. All sealed up!
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Old 07-03-2020, 02:32 AM   #7
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Across the terminals. Pro tip: If using a DTM connector, slide the wires through the seal, crimp the resistor in the terminals with the wires, and then slide everything in the connector housing. All sealed up!
Thanks man... I just saw a video on can bus termination... Just crimp the leads to it... Cool....

I forgot to buy PCB to CAN and CAN Female.... Is that what you need to buy too?
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Old 07-03-2020, 07:42 AM   #8
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Quote:
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Thanks man... I just saw a video on can bus termination... Just crimp the leads to it... Cool....

I forgot to buy PCB to CAN and CAN Female.... Is that what you need to buy too?
I convert their CAN cables to DTM connectors. That way I can just run the length I need to run, and it keeps it neat.
But yeah it looks like there?s a separate plug on the board for their CAN communication, so you?ll need one for that.
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Old 07-02-2020, 11:38 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slider2828 View Post
Its just plug and play on one end. It does come with everything.... But in case you want a disconnect on ecu side or soemthing...

That is a $500 kit to go to Hall Sensor and some people had trouble getting the calibration correct... Just trying to make 400+whp.... nothing big...
I guess I don't really see how horsepower applies to the quality of the crank/cam timing signals. It's going to rev the same range at 200hp or 500hp.

Same could be said for a $500 rom tune ecu or a couple thousand on a standalone and sensors. Could make 400 on a rom tune lol.
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