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Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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12-18-2008, 12:54 PM | #1 |
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i know that this is gonna sound wack, seeing with what money i have after christmas, im going to be getting a 10" W7 for my truck. but im not trying to spend to much on the amp. was looking around abit and im not sure whos reputable in amps but i found the Alpine MRP-M500, MA Audio M1900XE, Orion Cobalt CO800.1, Polk/MOMO C500.1. they're all 500watts and $200, thats around what im looking to spend. i will be building a box and my truck is already wired. so those who know anything help out?
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12-18-2008, 12:58 PM | #2 |
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Kenwood headunit with USB connector
2 Blown Sony explode in the rear with black tape on the plastic thing lol 2 10" Rockford Puch Subs Rockford Punch 4 channel amps Rockford Punch 1/2 Farad Capacitor est. total was around 1400 all from bestbuy.... |
12-18-2008, 09:28 PM | #6 |
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GSXRJJORDAN, I'm not putting speakers in the fibreglass doors. I just want something clear enough to listen to the traffic. Something like a pick up truck speaker box.
What do you recommend? |
12-20-2008, 05:38 PM | #8 |
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What amp/processing? I've never heard the square 8", I bet with some clean power in a good box it'd sound pretty good.
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12-21-2008, 04:31 AM | #9 |
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so i put these in today
Kenwood Excelon KFCX1710P 6.5" High Performance 2-Way Component... (not from there, out of my stagea) HOLY SHIT i remember why i love music. everything is so clear...no distortion all the way up to max volume...now i need somethin gfor hte back, and an amp. and a louder headunit my directed d700 is killing my sub though. it was bench tested 3 years ago at around 1000 at 1ohm. i have it at 2ohm on my JVC, and half gain, and its still too much power. Box is sealed with correct airspace lol time to move up to a better sub
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12-21-2008, 12:34 PM | #10 | |
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The D700 is a super powerful amp, meant to run a whole network of subs at around 1ohm - if you're just running a single 2ohm sub, you probably should have the gain turned all the way down lol. Good thing about a sealed box is that you can hear it "clip"/"slap" when you're over the xmax of the sub. When you hear that, turn it down
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12-21-2008, 05:29 PM | #11 | |
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im hoping to fry this fucking headunit. it sucks dick. then i can buy another pioneer and an amp but on a real note, i ran these for a year in my stagea.....no problem off headunit EDIT: Directed 750D amp
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2015 Subaru Outback Overlander - Wagonofdoom Last edited by yokotas13; 12-21-2008 at 08:03 PM.. |
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12-21-2008, 01:54 PM | #12 | |
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I have a simple question. If I have a 1000 watt rms sub, and an amp that puts out 1300 watts rms, will the sub only pull as much as it needs, or will the amp send all 1300 watts into the sub and cook it?
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12-21-2008, 02:53 PM | #13 | |
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So basically, you've got a good setup... you should just turn the gain down on the amp, so that when you play it loud, you don't hear it clip/hop - you'll hear bass getting louder and louder, until the speaker hops the magnetic gap, then you'll hear "clip"/"pop" etc and no bass, then bass again. If you hear that, turn it down.
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12-21-2008, 07:54 PM | #15 |
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i am currently running:
alpine HU kicker 750w single channel amp. kicker 350w 4 channel amp. pioneer (cheap) 10" sub in sealed box alpine type R 6.5" woofers with infinity reference crossover and random tweeters. (front) pioneer 6.5" coaxials plus random tweeters with filter (ghetto) (rear) i am well aware that my shit is pretty wack, and i put it together comprised of shit i got for free. it sounds okay to me, personally, but i am very curious as to what kind of real sound audio systems are capable of producing, i suppose first things first i need new speakers, i would like to run a matching set of components to run off the kicker 4 chan. What components would be recomended? also that brings us to the second problem, the kicker 350w 4 chan amp, are these things any good? i am well aware that usually speakers sound better when being run off a amp, but is this amp any good? i think the sub itself probably sucks but how is the amp? are kicker amps any good? any comments, critisism and suggestions are greatly appreciated! in case this matters, this is in my '79 corolla. |
12-21-2008, 11:35 PM | #16 |
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i dont have this but since the topic is car audio....what do you guys think of the JVC-50w x 4 mosfet cd/dvd deck with 3.5" widescreen-black?good for the price?what are your takes on this?
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12-22-2008, 01:25 AM | #18 | |
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Lol, I was replying, but my browser crashed, then I forgot.
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I like CDT components, because I get very natural-sounding speakers that sound like top end components for about $300 (I can get you guys that deal too) - and they take a lot of power! There are lots of good components, but there are also a ton that sound "tinney" because they use metal tweeters - I prefer the silk-dome tweeters for their soothing presence/not overpowering sound. As far as your sub, it's just low end fill! If it never sounds right, or just isn't loud enough, you could try getting another one - your amps are OK, but with after components you should definitely upgrade the 4ch amp. Was there supposed to be a link in there? No head unit actually produces the current they claim, so if you want good sound, plan on buying an additional 4ch amp. If you want a head unit that looks cool, just make sure it has discreet front/rear/subwoofer high-volt (4v or higher) preamp outs that fits in your budget, so that you can upgrade later without replacing the head unit.
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12-22-2008, 10:26 PM | #19 | |
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12-22-2008, 11:20 PM | #20 | |
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12-23-2008, 04:04 AM | #21 |
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hehe i have that one in my leggy
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2015 Subaru Outback Overlander - Wagonofdoom |
12-23-2008, 07:39 PM | #22 |
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12-23-2008, 12:00 AM | #23 |
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Whats a good way to keep vibrations down on the rear deck of an s14. Just plan on running 6.5's...no subs, amp, etc. But I gotta keep bass down due to rattles.
Oh yeah when looking at speaker specs what is most important when it comes to clarity. I like highs, but pioneers I have now distort depending on the song at high levels..kinda static pop sounds |
12-23-2008, 04:10 AM | #24 |
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in the front i have Alpine Type X 5.25" component speakers (6.5s got in the way of the window). I have 2 infiniti kappas 4x6 in the rear, all four are powered by an alpine 4 channel amp. I also have a JL 10w3 in a truck box powered by an insigna (best buy) amp which has managed to blow one other sub...
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12-23-2008, 09:32 AM | #25 |
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Front: Pioneer D1720c's (6.5) components
Rear: Alpine Type-R 6.5 (33ow version) 4-Channel alpine PDX (class AB) for speakers SUB: Atomix Quantum 12" Mono alpine PDX 1.1 class D |
12-23-2008, 11:55 AM | #26 | ||
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As far as "specs" for good sound, they don't exist. I can look at T/s parameters and know how a speaker "reacts", but can't know how it sounds until you plug it in to some clean power and listen for a bit. If you're shopping for components, go listen to some at your local car audio shop - get a feel for what "sound" you like (tight bass, sparkling highs, more natural highs, etc) and see what they've got that's in your price range. Balllllinnnnnnnnnnnnnn ~ Quote:
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12-23-2008, 11:49 PM | #28 |
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ill sell you mine if you want it.
i just want a normal pioneer. no need for a screen here
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2015 Subaru Outback Overlander - Wagonofdoom |
12-24-2008, 01:55 AM | #29 |
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hey gsxrjordan. i have 2 12" pioneer subs like i mentioned and a kicker kx850.2 amp.
i want to downgrade to 1 12" but don't really want to spend too much money. 1. can you build me a box for 1 12? how much would you charge? 2. would my sub be able to handle the 850 watts from my kicker amp? i'm pretty sure this is the exact model i have. http://www.amazon.com/PIONEER-TS-W30.../dp/B0007GFC3M also, i want to change my rear speakers since they are blown, again without spending too much money. what would you recommend for rear fill 6.5"s that don't cost too much. i'm not going for super SQ or SPL sound here... i just want decent sounding music that can get decently loud (or loud enough to cover up my exhaust note) One more thing... i used to be way more into car audio before when i first put this system into my car so i'm kinda confused how I have my subs/amp wired. It says the subs are DVC 4 ohm which would mean each sub can be 2 or 8 ohms (series/parallel). I'm almost certain that I have each sub wired in Parallel which would make it 2 ohms, then the 2 subs wired in series to make it a 4 ohm final. then i have the 2 channels on the amp bridged which would means it is putting out 850 x 1 watts @ 4ohms (bridged mode) sending each sub 425 watts. does that sound right? now onto my first question, if i wanted to downgrade to 1 12" sub, it would be either 2 or 8ohms. i don't think the kicker amp i have can run at 8 ohms so it would be 2 ohms, but then again, i'm not sure the amp can run bridged at 2 ohms. how would i wire it? (if it's even possible)
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Last edited by 94cc0rd; 12-24-2008 at 02:19 AM.. |
12-24-2008, 02:25 AM | #30 | |
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anways. kk well imma list a couple of my recent setups. Alpine 9887 unit polk momo 6 1/2s 2 12" kicker cvrs sealed enclosure power acoustik 1920 watt mono block amp 1.0 farad cap pioneer phd 4000d touchscreen (i believe that was the model) Alpine type r 6 1/2's 10" jl w7 3.2 cubic foot ported box jl audio 500/1 1.5 farad cap Valor its- 703w flipout touchscreen polk momo 6 1/2's 15" kicker L7 2 cubic foot ported box hifonics bxi 1608 mono block amp 1.5 farad cap and my current setup is Kenwood kdc- mp638u pioneer 4x7's (ordered) 2 12" kenwood kfc- w3011 (ordered) 2 cubic foot bandpass box (ordered) Kenwood kac- 8104 mono block amp |
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240sx, hatch, s13, setup, stereo |
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